Why do you want a BMW? The reason most people (external of bitog) buy new, beat on them and ditch them before they become problematic. I apologize as I know I am not providing any info on the cars..but luxury cars cost alot to fix. When I was young I know people who bought used luxury cars and had multiple issues..lincoln, bmw and mercedes. I couldnt say exactly what troubles but I think you are likely going to get the car (the years you are looking at) when troubles will start. People buy them for luxury and ditch them before trouble starts. If you can afford one, buy it new..but if you want something reliable and low cost to maintain you are going down the wrong path...my friends all ended up with honda civic, mazda cx5 etc..i dont mean to make this an anti BMW post, because its not. If you can afford a luxury car..they expect you can afford the maintenance that goes with it.
Need info on used BMW 3 series
- Thread starter LexAtlanta
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The MOST important thing to look for in a USED bmw is a maintenance log.
Yes, paperwork of proper maintenance!
I have owned 2 M3's (E36) and 2 E46 (323i, 325ic) all bought used, NONE gave me issues that were unexpected. Why? Well I looked at the history of each one as each owner kept all paper work.
As far as BMW being less reliable than Honda/Toyota that may be true, but I will take a used BMW with paperwork over a used Toyota with an unknown history any day.
In buying used, I think previous owner is more important than the actual Make/model
Yes, paperwork of proper maintenance!
I have owned 2 M3's (E36) and 2 E46 (323i, 325ic) all bought used, NONE gave me issues that were unexpected. Why? Well I looked at the history of each one as each owner kept all paper work.
As far as BMW being less reliable than Honda/Toyota that may be true, but I will take a used BMW with paperwork over a used Toyota with an unknown history any day.
In buying used, I think previous owner is more important than the actual Make/model
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I have a 2000 BMW 528i. Bought it 3 years old (with 1 year of warrantee left).
I found that used 5 series were relatively cheap and usually better optioned than used 3 series. They're a bit bigger too which on balance (you give up some handling) is a good thing. If I were going to buy a 3 series I think I'd buy a new one.
The 528i hasn't been too bad for maintenance, actually better than my previous Volvo - though that's probably a matter of chance. And of course it's better if you can do some of the work yourself.
Mileage is quite good (close to my 2007 V6 Honda Accord, though the BMW uses premium fuel).
I'm glad I've had the BMW experience. I'd buy another one.
I found that used 5 series were relatively cheap and usually better optioned than used 3 series. They're a bit bigger too which on balance (you give up some handling) is a good thing. If I were going to buy a 3 series I think I'd buy a new one.
The 528i hasn't been too bad for maintenance, actually better than my previous Volvo - though that's probably a matter of chance. And of course it's better if you can do some of the work yourself.
Mileage is quite good (close to my 2007 V6 Honda Accord, though the BMW uses premium fuel).
I'm glad I've had the BMW experience. I'd buy another one.
To the OP, a few points to consider:
1. The hardest part with an E46 is finding a good one. You need service records that show that the car was taken care of at a good shop. You also need to have the car gone over by a good shop prior to your purchase. "Good shop" means one that knows BMWs inside and out and has a good rep.
2. Make it a sedan or wagon. There's no benefit to the coupe. I'd recommend against the convertible as well; it might have been worthwhile if you were dying to have one, but it doesn't soud like you are.
3. Get a manual transmission. Don't worry about resale value; manual E46s are HIGHLY sought-after by enthusiasts, whereas the autos are normally bought by people who just want the badge.
4. There are a few key weak spots, e.g. window regulators in the 4-door cars and structural weakness where the rear subframe bolts to the car. All of those weak points have easily available fixes. Make sure they have been done.
5. Be ready to change all the fluids, dampers, and suspension bushings when you get the car.
6. Avoid modified cars. A lot of them are fine but it's not worth the gamble.
7. Regular maintenance is cake. Engine oil drains the same as in any other car. Engine oil filter is easily accesible. Brakes are a hair more complicated but it's worth it. Plugs are like in any other car. Everything is sensibly laid out. Very few jobs are unreasonably difficult, and those don't need to be done regularly.
8. The engine does require synthetic, and it has to meet BMW's LL-01 spec. Do NOT make the mistake of throwing in any old synthetic as most don't carry that approval. However, Mobil 1 0w-40 is approved and sells for $25/gal all day at Wal Mart.
9. The engine takes premium gas. If you get even a hint that the previous owner might have put anything else in, walk away.
10. Age is way more important than miles. A recent model year is nothing but good. Low miles could mean well-kept (good), or it could mean the car was driven infrequently or only for short trips (bad).
That's all I can come up with right now. Hope it helps.
1. The hardest part with an E46 is finding a good one. You need service records that show that the car was taken care of at a good shop. You also need to have the car gone over by a good shop prior to your purchase. "Good shop" means one that knows BMWs inside and out and has a good rep.
2. Make it a sedan or wagon. There's no benefit to the coupe. I'd recommend against the convertible as well; it might have been worthwhile if you were dying to have one, but it doesn't soud like you are.
3. Get a manual transmission. Don't worry about resale value; manual E46s are HIGHLY sought-after by enthusiasts, whereas the autos are normally bought by people who just want the badge.
4. There are a few key weak spots, e.g. window regulators in the 4-door cars and structural weakness where the rear subframe bolts to the car. All of those weak points have easily available fixes. Make sure they have been done.
5. Be ready to change all the fluids, dampers, and suspension bushings when you get the car.
6. Avoid modified cars. A lot of them are fine but it's not worth the gamble.
7. Regular maintenance is cake. Engine oil drains the same as in any other car. Engine oil filter is easily accesible. Brakes are a hair more complicated but it's worth it. Plugs are like in any other car. Everything is sensibly laid out. Very few jobs are unreasonably difficult, and those don't need to be done regularly.
8. The engine does require synthetic, and it has to meet BMW's LL-01 spec. Do NOT make the mistake of throwing in any old synthetic as most don't carry that approval. However, Mobil 1 0w-40 is approved and sells for $25/gal all day at Wal Mart.
9. The engine takes premium gas. If you get even a hint that the previous owner might have put anything else in, walk away.
10. Age is way more important than miles. A recent model year is nothing but good. Low miles could mean well-kept (good), or it could mean the car was driven infrequently or only for short trips (bad).
That's all I can come up with right now. Hope it helps.
Originally Posted By: LexAtlanta
Char - what type of issues have those BMWs had? Up until this point in my life I have owned Ford, Nissan, Mopar and Chevy..........only American or Japanese, no German. I am not in a high income bracket and need whatever I buy to be basically trouble free. Catastrophic failures aren't in the budget.
Then DON'T buy any 10 + year old car. Period. And a 10 + year old german car is taking a huge risk...
I had a neighbour who was a BMW service manager, his advice... lease for 3 years, NEVER go past warranty...
If you can buy the car AND have $ 5000 (at least...) put aside for repairs and maintenance, then go for it.
Char - what type of issues have those BMWs had? Up until this point in my life I have owned Ford, Nissan, Mopar and Chevy..........only American or Japanese, no German. I am not in a high income bracket and need whatever I buy to be basically trouble free. Catastrophic failures aren't in the budget.
Then DON'T buy any 10 + year old car. Period. And a 10 + year old german car is taking a huge risk...
I had a neighbour who was a BMW service manager, his advice... lease for 3 years, NEVER go past warranty...
If you can buy the car AND have $ 5000 (at least...) put aside for repairs and maintenance, then go for it.
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
Get your check book ready.
Or run away!
Get your check book ready.
Or run away!
I have owned an E39 540i-6 speed (115K miles) and currently own a E90 328i auto (161K miles), these models are no where near as reliable as the E46 3 series, as long as you buy a well maintained vehicle and proactively take care of the known issues (coolant system), you will have no problems, there are numerous websites dedicated to these models that are very helpful, I am no longer affluent (thanks healthcare reform) but I keep driving BMW's because of the driving experience,
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
someone here said they are the ultimate driving machine but not the ultimate dependability machine. something along those lines anyway.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..? After new shocks/struts, front end work and various other wear out parts get fixed, then yes... see the $ 5000 + recommendation...
If you work on your own car, or have the cash to fix the inevitable problems ( any brand...) then, yes buying a 10 year old car might make sense.,
If you don't, that BORING Honda is gonna be way better than a 10 + year old anything...
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..? After new shocks/struts, front end work and various other wear out parts get fixed, then yes... see the $ 5000 + recommendation...
If you work on your own car, or have the cash to fix the inevitable problems ( any brand...) then, yes buying a 10 year old car might make sense.,
If you don't, that BORING Honda is gonna be way better than a 10 + year old anything...
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..? After new shocks/struts, front end work and various other wear out parts get fixed, then yes... see the $ 5000 + recommendation...
If you work on your own car, or have the cash to fix the inevitable problems ( any brand...) then, yes buying a 10 year old car might make sense.,
If you don't, that BORING Honda is gonna be way better than a 10 + year old anything...
Yes. My 2004 I35 drives very nicely. Smooth, quiet, controlled. Still on all stock and original suspension. In fact, the only that different than how it left from the factory is the tires. It doesn't hurt that the odo shows 87k miles... but that's besides the point!
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..? After new shocks/struts, front end work and various other wear out parts get fixed, then yes... see the $ 5000 + recommendation...
If you work on your own car, or have the cash to fix the inevitable problems ( any brand...) then, yes buying a 10 year old car might make sense.,
If you don't, that BORING Honda is gonna be way better than a 10 + year old anything...
Yes. My 2004 I35 drives very nicely. Smooth, quiet, controlled. Still on all stock and original suspension. In fact, the only that different than how it left from the factory is the tires. It doesn't hurt that the odo shows 87k miles... but that's besides the point!
Accord Sport sedan would be my choice over a used BMW in the same price range.
Originally Posted By: BowNisPar
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..? After new shocks/struts, front end work and various other wear out parts get fixed, then yes... see the $ 5000 + recommendation...
If you work on your own car, or have the cash to fix the inevitable problems ( any brand...) then, yes buying a 10 year old car might make sense.,
If you don't, that BORING Honda is gonna be way better than a 10 + year old anything...
Yes. My 2004 I35 drives very nicely. Smooth, quiet, controlled. Still on all stock and original suspension. In fact, the only that different than how it left from the factory is the tires. It doesn't hurt that the odo shows 87k miles... but that's besides the point!
Sorry, but 8000 miles a year kind of changes the point a little... when you get to 150 000 or so, get back to us...
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: LT4 Vette
geeman,
For that much money you can buy a new Accord / Camry.
Funny -- this exact idea is what makes me and most of my friends laugh at the idea of buying a brand new Accord/Camry. I.e., why buy something that utterly boring to drive when you could have something like a NICE used E46 for the same price?
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..? After new shocks/struts, front end work and various other wear out parts get fixed, then yes... see the $ 5000 + recommendation...
If you work on your own car, or have the cash to fix the inevitable problems ( any brand...) then, yes buying a 10 year old car might make sense.,
If you don't, that BORING Honda is gonna be way better than a 10 + year old anything...
Yes. My 2004 I35 drives very nicely. Smooth, quiet, controlled. Still on all stock and original suspension. In fact, the only that different than how it left from the factory is the tires. It doesn't hurt that the odo shows 87k miles... but that's besides the point!
Sorry, but 8000 miles a year kind of changes the point a little... when you get to 150 000 or so, get back to us...
Poke around here for some wholesale prices
http://www.abwautos.com/vehicles?Make=BMW
Seems like anything approaching 10 years old or 100K are heavily depreciated. I'd read a lot into that; it is what the market bears.
I don't suspect the target audience for such vehicles is particularly large, whereas if it were an appliance car, the audience is larger and risks are substantially lower
http://www.abwautos.com/vehicles?Make=BMW
Seems like anything approaching 10 years old or 100K are heavily depreciated. I'd read a lot into that; it is what the market bears.
I don't suspect the target audience for such vehicles is particularly large, whereas if it were an appliance car, the audience is larger and risks are substantially lower
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
I'm going to disagree slightly. I am replacing the struts on my 07' 328xi with 68k miles, and the OEM struts were toast. I compressed them by hand, and they returned about 1". BMW's are notorious for wearing out suspension components but because they handle well it is sometimes hard to tell. If you replaced the struts you would probably notice a difference immediately.
And to OP- whenever I purchase a used German car I always have 1-2k placed aside for maintenance within the first 12 months of ownership. They always hide surprises.
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
I'm going to disagree slightly. I am replacing the struts on my 07' 328xi with 68k miles, and the OEM struts were toast. I compressed them by hand, and they returned about 1". BMW's are notorious for wearing out suspension components but because they handle well it is sometimes hard to tell. If you replaced the struts you would probably notice a difference immediately.
And to OP- whenever I purchase a used German car I always have 1-2k placed aside for maintenance within the first 12 months of ownership. They always hide surprises.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: typ901
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
I'm going to disagree slightly. I am replacing the struts on my 07' 328xi with 68k miles, and the OEM struts were toast. I compressed them by hand, and they returned about 1". BMW's are notorious for wearing out suspension components but because they handle well it is sometimes hard to tell. If you replaced the struts you would probably notice a difference immediately.
And to OP- whenever I purchase a used German car I always have 1-2k placed aside for maintenance within the first 12 months of ownership. They always hide surprises.
I had to replace them on our 328i (2000) too (the rear springs were cooked BTW) but I am think the M suspension probably gets you better dampers
That said, I can buy the entire Bilstein kit for my car for under $1500.00:
http://www.amazon.ca/Bilstein-47-111264-Performance-Suspension-System/dp/B009FU9UPC
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-111264/182418/RWD
Originally Posted By: Bilstein
The Bilstein B14 PSS kit features both coilover and standard monotube gas shocks with performance-level valving, with application specific, progressive rate coil springs. The solid aluminum spring seat and lock nut allows for precise adjustment of the vehicle's lowered ride height from 30mm to 50mm, even while installed. Bilstein's patented Triple-C-Technology coating ensures long-lasting resistance to corrosion. This kit is ideal for the driver looking to set a car's ride height for both looks and improved handling.
Turner has that kit for under $1,100.00. I can buy an entire set of replacement shocks for around $500.00 too if I wanted to continue using my stock springs.
My point however is that the car DOES drive nicely despite geeman789 positing this as an impossibility. I've had numerous comments on it from people who have driven with me who cannot believe the car is the age it is. It now has 113,000 miles on it as well.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
I'm going to disagree slightly. I am replacing the struts on my 07' 328xi with 68k miles, and the OEM struts were toast. I compressed them by hand, and they returned about 1". BMW's are notorious for wearing out suspension components but because they handle well it is sometimes hard to tell. If you replaced the struts you would probably notice a difference immediately.
And to OP- whenever I purchase a used German car I always have 1-2k placed aside for maintenance within the first 12 months of ownership. They always hide surprises.
I had to replace them on our 328i (2000) too (the rear springs were cooked BTW) but I am think the M suspension probably gets you better dampers
That said, I can buy the entire Bilstein kit for my car for under $1500.00:
http://www.amazon.ca/Bilstein-47-111264-Performance-Suspension-System/dp/B009FU9UPC
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-111264/182418/RWD
Originally Posted By: Bilstein
The Bilstein B14 PSS kit features both coilover and standard monotube gas shocks with performance-level valving, with application specific, progressive rate coil springs. The solid aluminum spring seat and lock nut allows for precise adjustment of the vehicle's lowered ride height from 30mm to 50mm, even while installed. Bilstein's patented Triple-C-Technology coating ensures long-lasting resistance to corrosion. This kit is ideal for the driver looking to set a car's ride height for both looks and improved handling.
Turner has that kit for under $1,100.00. I can buy an entire set of replacement shocks for around $500.00 too if I wanted to continue using my stock springs.
My point however is that the car DOES drive nicely despite geeman789 positing this as an impossibility. I've had numerous comments on it from people who have driven with me who cannot believe the car is the age it is. It now has 113,000 miles on it as well.
Find an issue of BIMMER magazine. They've done a series of articles on the various BMW series; e36, e46, e39 and so on, their strengths and weaknesses, etc. Email one of their columnists, Mike Miller. He can tell you which back issue to look for (at your library) as well as answer any particular questions you might have about the e46.
I've owned 20 BMWs, including 7 M cars, interspersed with Audis, P Cars, a Camaro Z28 with a Corvette engine, and the pinnacle, a 460 cu in. Slam Bam Trans Am with Fire Chicken decal. I always come back to the Bimmers.
I've owned 20 BMWs, including 7 M cars, interspersed with Audis, P Cars, a Camaro Z28 with a Corvette engine, and the pinnacle, a 460 cu in. Slam Bam Trans Am with Fire Chicken decal. I always come back to the Bimmers.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: typ901
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
I'm going to disagree slightly. I am replacing the struts on my 07' 328xi with 68k miles, and the OEM struts were toast. I compressed them by hand, and they returned about 1". BMW's are notorious for wearing out suspension components but because they handle well it is sometimes hard to tell. If you replaced the struts you would probably notice a difference immediately.
And to OP- whenever I purchase a used German car I always have 1-2k placed aside for maintenance within the first 12 months of ownership. They always hide surprises.
I had to replace them on our 328i (2000) too (the rear springs were cooked BTW) but I am think the M suspension probably gets you better dampers
That said, I can buy the entire Bilstein kit for my car for under $1500.00:
http://www.amazon.ca/Bilstein-47-111264-Performance-Suspension-System/dp/B009FU9UPC
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-111264/182418/RWD
Originally Posted By: Bilstein
The Bilstein B14 PSS kit features both coilover and standard monotube gas shocks with performance-level valving, with application specific, progressive rate coil springs. The solid aluminum spring seat and lock nut allows for precise adjustment of the vehicle's lowered ride height from 30mm to 50mm, even while installed. Bilstein's patented Triple-C-Technology coating ensures long-lasting resistance to corrosion. This kit is ideal for the driver looking to set a car's ride height for both looks and improved handling.
Turner has that kit for under $1,100.00. I can buy an entire set of replacement shocks for around $500.00 too if I wanted to continue using my stock springs.
My point however is that the car DOES drive nicely despite geeman789 positing this as an impossibility. I've had numerous comments on it from people who have driven with me who cannot believe the car is the age it is. It now has 113,000 miles on it as well.
Not an IMPOSSIBILITY, just less likely the higher the age and mileage creeps... parts wear, especially shock/struts, tie rods/balljoints , steering racks, bushings etc.
And, yes, some OEM shocks seem to last much longer than others...
Originally Posted By: typ901
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: geeman789
Does ANY 10+ year old car DRIVE nice... really..?
Yes. My M5 still has the original suspension minus a tie-rod end. It now has a noisy strut bushing on the drivers front but other than that the damping is still fine with the OE units on all four corners.
I'm going to disagree slightly. I am replacing the struts on my 07' 328xi with 68k miles, and the OEM struts were toast. I compressed them by hand, and they returned about 1". BMW's are notorious for wearing out suspension components but because they handle well it is sometimes hard to tell. If you replaced the struts you would probably notice a difference immediately.
And to OP- whenever I purchase a used German car I always have 1-2k placed aside for maintenance within the first 12 months of ownership. They always hide surprises.
I had to replace them on our 328i (2000) too (the rear springs were cooked BTW) but I am think the M suspension probably gets you better dampers
That said, I can buy the entire Bilstein kit for my car for under $1500.00:
http://www.amazon.ca/Bilstein-47-111264-Performance-Suspension-System/dp/B009FU9UPC
http://cart.bilsteinus.com/product/47-111264/182418/RWD
Originally Posted By: Bilstein
The Bilstein B14 PSS kit features both coilover and standard monotube gas shocks with performance-level valving, with application specific, progressive rate coil springs. The solid aluminum spring seat and lock nut allows for precise adjustment of the vehicle's lowered ride height from 30mm to 50mm, even while installed. Bilstein's patented Triple-C-Technology coating ensures long-lasting resistance to corrosion. This kit is ideal for the driver looking to set a car's ride height for both looks and improved handling.
Turner has that kit for under $1,100.00. I can buy an entire set of replacement shocks for around $500.00 too if I wanted to continue using my stock springs.
My point however is that the car DOES drive nicely despite geeman789 positing this as an impossibility. I've had numerous comments on it from people who have driven with me who cannot believe the car is the age it is. It now has 113,000 miles on it as well.
Not an IMPOSSIBILITY, just less likely the higher the age and mileage creeps... parts wear, especially shock/struts, tie rods/balljoints , steering racks, bushings etc.
And, yes, some OEM shocks seem to last much longer than others...
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