Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Check the frame too.Its probably all rusted up as well.
It is!
Check the frame too.Its probably all rusted up as well.
It is!
How much should a rear brake and rotor job be?
- Thread starter MalfunctionProne
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Check the frame too.Its probably all rusted up as well.
It is!
FAIL! Krown FTW!!!
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Check the frame too.Its probably all rusted up as well.
It is!
FAIL! Krown FTW!!!
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Just got front hoses about a month ago.
And "at least pads" (plus rotors?) (front) for $175.
Now the rears...
Just got front hoses about a month ago.
And "at least pads" (plus rotors?) (front) for $175.
Now the rears...
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Check the frame too.Its probably all rusted up as well.
It is!
FAIL! Krown FTW!!!
I am seriously going to look into something like this.
I have two other vehicles, too. One has rocker panel rust; one is the Honda. The Honda is pretty good. The other one, while not looking horrible to the eye of those looking at her pretty body, is gonna need some grinding wheel loving...
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
Originally Posted By: NHGUY
Check the frame too.Its probably all rusted up as well.
It is!
FAIL! Krown FTW!!!
I am seriously going to look into something like this.
I have two other vehicles, too. One has rocker panel rust; one is the Honda. The Honda is pretty good. The other one, while not looking horrible to the eye of those looking at her pretty body, is gonna need some grinding wheel loving...
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
Did the scraping noise start at the same time as the soft pedal and brake warning? Sounds like there is likely more than one issue that will need more work than just a brake job.
Run over anything recently?
I will post back the verdict. Everything else is inconclusive.
Did the scraping noise start at the same time as the soft pedal and brake warning? Sounds like there is likely more than one issue that will need more work than just a brake job.
Run over anything recently?
I will post back the verdict. Everything else is inconclusive.
Those like to spit the inner pad out. Then the piston comes out of the caliper. Usually needs at least that caliper, rotor and pads.
Last one I did got both rear calipers and both rear rotors and was around $650.
Last one I did got both rear calipers and both rear rotors and was around $650.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Donald
Get copper/nickel brake line or you will be doing it again. Are the rears disc? They may have the parking brake inside the rotor. That should be checked also.
Depending upon brake pad wear you may need a caliper. Or two.
Was there brake fluid in the reservoir?
I am going with the rusted brake line. I have had a few sections done on each of my vehicles.
1. The rears are disc
2. The parking brake inside the rotor is mechanical (it uses a cable) so would not contribute to this pedal issue.
3. Agreed, he may be in need of rear calipers. If the fluid has not been changed they tend to get sticky (like mine did).
#2 - the parking brake only contributes to the cost.
Originally Posted By: Donald
Get copper/nickel brake line or you will be doing it again. Are the rears disc? They may have the parking brake inside the rotor. That should be checked also.
Depending upon brake pad wear you may need a caliper. Or two.
Was there brake fluid in the reservoir?
I am going with the rusted brake line. I have had a few sections done on each of my vehicles.
1. The rears are disc
2. The parking brake inside the rotor is mechanical (it uses a cable) so would not contribute to this pedal issue.
3. Agreed, he may be in need of rear calipers. If the fluid has not been changed they tend to get sticky (like mine did).
#2 - the parking brake only contributes to the cost.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yup, it has shoes inside the rotor. I've had mine replaced. Twice. Fun times
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
My moms Buick Rendezvous had its brakes failing and the brake light on the dash on, was really low on fluod and it turns out the brake line that runs into the right rear caliper was just loose and leaked all the fluid out. All it needed was tightening and some new fluid. Hopefully that's all yours needs.
Originally Posted By: dernp
/99 Expedition in the salt belt very well could be rusted out brake line causing the brake light to come on and spongy pedal. Brake line replaced should be around $150ish. $300 for pads and rotors.
I think your bill should be in the $450 range.
I got quoted $280 for 1 hardline replacement on my 99 Taurus from CarX which is currently parked until I find somewhere cheaper. Hoping a local mechanic is cheaper.
I was driving along one day and had to make a panic stop for an accident that happened right over the crest of a hill on a 45 mph road and it made a nice pop and the pedal got soft. I parked it shortly after and all the brake fluid was left in the parking space.
/99 Expedition in the salt belt very well could be rusted out brake line causing the brake light to come on and spongy pedal. Brake line replaced should be around $150ish. $300 for pads and rotors.
I think your bill should be in the $450 range.
I got quoted $280 for 1 hardline replacement on my 99 Taurus from CarX which is currently parked until I find somewhere cheaper. Hoping a local mechanic is cheaper.
I was driving along one day and had to make a panic stop for an accident that happened right over the crest of a hill on a 45 mph road and it made a nice pop and the pedal got soft. I parked it shortly after and all the brake fluid was left in the parking space.
I'm impressed that you guys have popped a line and still had brakes. When the pad fell off my Jetta I had no brakes until the piston moved its way out (5 pedal pumps? 10? in that region). Thankfully it was first thing in the morning and I was too brain-dead to think about what was going on.
I did a quick brake fluid exchange this summer, and one brake bleeder didn't get quite tight enough. I could immediately feel the sponginess. Such a small leak, such a horrible feeling.
I did a quick brake fluid exchange this summer, and one brake bleeder didn't get quite tight enough. I could immediately feel the sponginess. Such a small leak, such a horrible feeling.
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: dernp
/99 Expedition in the salt belt very well could be rusted out brake line causing the brake light to come on and spongy pedal. Brake line replaced should be around $150ish. $300 for pads and rotors.
I think your bill should be in the $450 range.
I got quoted $280 for 1 hardline replacement on my 99 Taurus from CarX which is currently parked until I find somewhere cheaper. Hoping a local mechanic is cheaper.
I was driving along one day and had to make a panic stop for an accident that happened right over the crest of a hill on a 45 mph road and it made a nice pop and the pedal got soft. I parked it shortly after and all the brake fluid was left in the parking space.
I'm relatively incompetent, plus I have all the trouble that comes along with the Rust Belt, but I still managed to replace mine. You can get a everything you need, including loaner tools, at AutoZone or your favorite parts store. I got a line bender, too, but the CuNi is easy enough to bend by hand.
Originally Posted By: dernp
/99 Expedition in the salt belt very well could be rusted out brake line causing the brake light to come on and spongy pedal. Brake line replaced should be around $150ish. $300 for pads and rotors.
I think your bill should be in the $450 range.
I got quoted $280 for 1 hardline replacement on my 99 Taurus from CarX which is currently parked until I find somewhere cheaper. Hoping a local mechanic is cheaper.
I was driving along one day and had to make a panic stop for an accident that happened right over the crest of a hill on a 45 mph road and it made a nice pop and the pedal got soft. I parked it shortly after and all the brake fluid was left in the parking space.
I'm relatively incompetent, plus I have all the trouble that comes along with the Rust Belt, but I still managed to replace mine. You can get a everything you need, including loaner tools, at AutoZone or your favorite parts store. I got a line bender, too, but the CuNi is easy enough to bend by hand.
To answer the OP's question, my local Dodge dealer regularly emails a "special" coupon to replace Ram/Dakota front or rear pads or shoes with Mopar Value Line for only $179.95. What are the odds they would tell me I also need rotors or drums?
For comparison, in August I replaced my Dakota's front brake calipers, pins, pin boots, pads, rotors, hoses and hose clips for $165. I indexed the rotor on the lugs while checking with a dial indicator to minimize runout, something I've never seen a shop do. Calipers were refurbs, everything else was new.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
We were around $1,100 to have all four rotors, pads, and calipers (one was seized, another was sticking) done on our '02. All Motorcraft parts. Was done by my Chrysler dealer.
Wow. I believe it, and I understand dealer overhead and the reasons they charge this kind of money, but still, that's a big chunk of change. Your Expeditions and my Dakota have one thing in common, the dealers use Truck brake prices not car brake prices. But yet when I go to Rock Auto I can get any brake part I want dirt cheap.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Never blown a brake line on ours, though my parents have on their '00. It was one of the rear lines.
When replacing the Dakota front brake hoses, a front brake line fell apart from rust. I decided to replace both front lines (it is MY life, after all). I was debating bending my own versus ordering Mopar replacements. I went with the dealer for roughly $80 for both, a month later they sent me a check for $30 of that back. I have no clue why, but I still feel like a genius. Add in two big bottles of Valvoline Dot3/4 for $16 and the double brake line job costs me ~$66.
I achieved some labor synergy by replacing the front shocks and bump stops while I had the wheels off. While I was in there I wire brushed and painted Rustoleum Rust reformer on all the metal surfaces, something I've never seen a shop do. To be fair, I never asked, but then again, I was never asked either.
I plan clean and lube the rear brakes and replace the rear brake lines and hose soon. Everything on the truck is approaching 15 years old and while it's been great, the idea of a 15 year old rubber brake hose does not thrill me.
For comparison, in August I replaced my Dakota's front brake calipers, pins, pin boots, pads, rotors, hoses and hose clips for $165. I indexed the rotor on the lugs while checking with a dial indicator to minimize runout, something I've never seen a shop do. Calipers were refurbs, everything else was new.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
We were around $1,100 to have all four rotors, pads, and calipers (one was seized, another was sticking) done on our '02. All Motorcraft parts. Was done by my Chrysler dealer.
Wow. I believe it, and I understand dealer overhead and the reasons they charge this kind of money, but still, that's a big chunk of change. Your Expeditions and my Dakota have one thing in common, the dealers use Truck brake prices not car brake prices. But yet when I go to Rock Auto I can get any brake part I want dirt cheap.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Never blown a brake line on ours, though my parents have on their '00. It was one of the rear lines.
When replacing the Dakota front brake hoses, a front brake line fell apart from rust. I decided to replace both front lines (it is MY life, after all). I was debating bending my own versus ordering Mopar replacements. I went with the dealer for roughly $80 for both, a month later they sent me a check for $30 of that back. I have no clue why, but I still feel like a genius. Add in two big bottles of Valvoline Dot3/4 for $16 and the double brake line job costs me ~$66.
I achieved some labor synergy by replacing the front shocks and bump stops while I had the wheels off. While I was in there I wire brushed and painted Rustoleum Rust reformer on all the metal surfaces, something I've never seen a shop do. To be fair, I never asked, but then again, I was never asked either.
I plan clean and lube the rear brakes and replace the rear brake lines and hose soon. Everything on the truck is approaching 15 years old and while it's been great, the idea of a 15 year old rubber brake hose does not thrill me.
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
I will post back the verdict.
And?
I will post back the verdict.
And?
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
I will post back the verdict.
And?
Just made my way back to this thread to post an update.
Since we both have to work tomorrow, and mechanic could not get to it today, after leaving it overnight... Wife has elected to.. take it without anything being done, except new fluid added.....
This is so unsafe.......
Originally Posted By: MalfunctionProne
I will post back the verdict.
And?
Just made my way back to this thread to post an update.
Since we both have to work tomorrow, and mechanic could not get to it today, after leaving it overnight... Wife has elected to.. take it without anything being done, except new fluid added.....
This is so unsafe.......
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
No *bleep* that's unsafe dude, WTH????
This was from yesterday. Note how I "geared down." (It did not do much.)
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
No *bleep* that's unsafe dude, WTH????
I know, brother. I know. I know.
She overrode my STRONG opposition on this one.
She is saying "Well, they don't see an external leak, so they suspect internal."
Will post back soon. If I am still alive.
I actually feel really [censored] knowingly being a part of this UNSAFE situation. Elizabeth, NJ...
No *bleep* that's unsafe dude, WTH????
I know, brother. I know. I know.
She overrode my STRONG opposition on this one.
She is saying "Well, they don't see an external leak, so they suspect internal."
Will post back soon. If I am still alive.
I actually feel really [censored] knowingly being a part of this UNSAFE situation. Elizabeth, NJ...
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
You or her are going to end up dead or killing somebody else. Get it fixed, NOW.
And leave the bloody 4R100 in drive, it doesn't have the "tow mode" programming of the 5R110/5R120 to make gearing down or putting it in "town mode" actually useful.
And leave the bloody 4R100 in drive, it doesn't have the "tow mode" programming of the 5R110/5R120 to make gearing down or putting it in "town mode" actually useful.
We talking about it right now.
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