So you have talked about the starting problem here aswell.
Just how many threads will this Volvo have before you realise it is a "wrong-un".
Just how many threads will this Volvo have before you realise it is a "wrong-un".
GT's Running Volvo thread. The 00 XC
- Thread starter GearheadTool
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
So it is doing the same thing it was doing before replacing the old battery, sounds like it didn't need the battery to start with?
Oh, and and I'm sorry, but anything with a red universal battery hold down is a ghetto.
That is very possible that it maybe didnt "need" the new ($136.99) battery.... However, all the white stuff coming from in/around the battery had me concerned. I even bought the chargers to "fix" the old battery (desulphate, etc..) but I can use it (the older CTEK) on the new battery as well. I am sure it still works fine.. But old, undated battery vs. new one.. better.
As to the hold-down: GUILTY!
The old one didn't fit, this new battery is so large.. so, I either need to 1. See if the "$5 Volvo hold-down" fits, or 2. leave it as ghetto. (Still, it is possible one of the battery terminals in the back is pinched, it sort of thunked down on it, big heavy battery. Should get some new 4-gauge battery terminals as well..)
I will do my best to report back what the diagnosis - and fix- is/was for the "no start" after it started and ran. So far, we have:
1. Fuel pump
2. VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
3. CPS
- as suspects.
(4. Fuel Filter??)
Would be nice if it could stay in for its timing belt. I wish. But that won't happen, yet.. (*isn't in my custody at the exact moment. next year, maybe, I can help it - the car) Don't worry, we aren't going to let it go to [censored].
Still confused as to why the heated seats don't STAY warm.....
So it is doing the same thing it was doing before replacing the old battery, sounds like it didn't need the battery to start with?
Oh, and and I'm sorry, but anything with a red universal battery hold down is a ghetto.
That is very possible that it maybe didnt "need" the new ($136.99) battery.... However, all the white stuff coming from in/around the battery had me concerned. I even bought the chargers to "fix" the old battery (desulphate, etc..) but I can use it (the older CTEK) on the new battery as well. I am sure it still works fine.. But old, undated battery vs. new one.. better.
As to the hold-down: GUILTY!
I will do my best to report back what the diagnosis - and fix- is/was for the "no start" after it started and ran. So far, we have:
1. Fuel pump
2. VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
3. CPS
- as suspects.
(4. Fuel Filter??)
Would be nice if it could stay in for its timing belt. I wish. But that won't happen, yet.. (*isn't in my custody at the exact moment. next year, maybe, I can help it - the car) Don't worry, we aren't going to let it go to [censored].
Still confused as to why the heated seats don't STAY warm.....
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
So it is doing the same thing it was doing before replacing the old battery, sounds like it didn't need the battery to start with?
Oh, and and I'm sorry, but anything with a red universal battery hold down is a ghetto.
That is very possible that it maybe didnt "need" the new ($136.99) battery.... However, all the white stuff coming from in/around the battery had me concerned. I even bought the chargers to "fix" the old battery (desulphate, etc..) but I can use it (the older CTEK) on the new battery as well. I am sure it still works fine.. But old, undated battery vs. new one.. better.
As to the hold-down: GUILTY!
The old one didn't fit, this new battery is so large.. so, I either need to 1. See if the "$5 Volvo hold-down" fits, or 2. leave it as ghetto. (Still, it is possible one of the battery terminals in the back is pinched, it sort of thunked down on it, big heavy battery. Should get some new 4-gauge battery terminals as well..)
I will do my best to report back what the diagnosis - and fix- is/was for the "no start" after it started and ran. So far, we have:
1. Fuel pump
2. VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
3. CPS
- as suspects.
(4. Fuel Filter??)
Would be nice if it could stay in for its timing belt. I wish. But that won't happen, yet.. (*isn't in my custody at the exact moment. next year, maybe, I can help it - the car) Don't worry, we aren't going to let it go to [censored].
Still confused as to why the heated seats don't STAY warm.....
I hate to say it but it has already gone to [censored].
I don't think the heated seats are really important in the grand scheme of things.
Perhaps they are knackered.
Old premium market cars have a habit of having premium priced problems, just because they are worth very little doesn't make them cheap to fix.
Hence why you have been advised to get rid of this car, if you are short of money you need to consider repair costs in your purchase decision.
There is no point buying a car that needs money spent to get it to a reasonable roadworthy condition.
It isn't as though the car was actually that cheap.
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
So it is doing the same thing it was doing before replacing the old battery, sounds like it didn't need the battery to start with?
Oh, and and I'm sorry, but anything with a red universal battery hold down is a ghetto.
That is very possible that it maybe didnt "need" the new ($136.99) battery.... However, all the white stuff coming from in/around the battery had me concerned. I even bought the chargers to "fix" the old battery (desulphate, etc..) but I can use it (the older CTEK) on the new battery as well. I am sure it still works fine.. But old, undated battery vs. new one.. better.
As to the hold-down: GUILTY!
I will do my best to report back what the diagnosis - and fix- is/was for the "no start" after it started and ran. So far, we have:
1. Fuel pump
2. VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
3. CPS
- as suspects.
(4. Fuel Filter??)
Would be nice if it could stay in for its timing belt. I wish. But that won't happen, yet.. (*isn't in my custody at the exact moment. next year, maybe, I can help it - the car) Don't worry, we aren't going to let it go to [censored].
Still confused as to why the heated seats don't STAY warm.....
I hate to say it but it has already gone to [censored].
I don't think the heated seats are really important in the grand scheme of things.
Perhaps they are knackered.
Old premium market cars have a habit of having premium priced problems, just because they are worth very little doesn't make them cheap to fix.
Hence why you have been advised to get rid of this car, if you are short of money you need to consider repair costs in your purchase decision.
There is no point buying a car that needs money spent to get it to a reasonable roadworthy condition.
It isn't as though the car was actually that cheap.
Originally Posted By: bigjl
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
So it is doing the same thing it was doing before replacing the old battery, sounds like it didn't need the battery to start with?
Oh, and and I'm sorry, but anything with a red universal battery hold down is a ghetto.
That is very possible that it maybe didnt "need" the new ($136.99) battery.... However, all the white stuff coming from in/around the battery had me concerned. I even bought the chargers to "fix" the old battery (desulphate, etc..) but I can use it (the older CTEK) on the new battery as well. I am sure it still works fine.. But old, undated battery vs. new one.. better.
As to the hold-down: GUILTY!
The old one didn't fit, this new battery is so large.. so, I either need to 1. See if the "$5 Volvo hold-down" fits, or 2. leave it as ghetto. (Still, it is possible one of the battery terminals in the back is pinched, it sort of thunked down on it, big heavy battery. Should get some new 4-gauge battery terminals as well..)
I will do my best to report back what the diagnosis - and fix- is/was for the "no start" after it started and ran. So far, we have:
1. Fuel pump
2. VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
3. CPS
- as suspects.
(4. Fuel Filter??)
Would be nice if it could stay in for its timing belt. I wish. But that won't happen, yet.. (*isn't in my custody at the exact moment. next year, maybe, I can help it - the car) Don't worry, we aren't going to let it go to [censored].
Still confused as to why the heated seats don't STAY warm.....
I hate to say it but it has already gone to [censored].
I don't think the heated seats are really important in the grand scheme of things.
Perhaps they are knackered.
Old premium market cars have a habit of having premium priced problems, just because they are worth very little doesn't make them cheap to fix.
Hence why you have been advised to get rid of this car, if you are short of money you need to consider repair costs in your purchase decision.
There is no point buying a car that needs money spent to get it to a reasonable roadworthy condition.
It isn't as though the car was actually that cheap.
He did not get that bad of a deal on the car.
The problem is that he has ZERO knowledge/tools/place to work on/money. I am not trying to be mean, it is just the truth. Bit of truth to the stuck in transmit comment too, but I digress.
I am guessing I could bring the car up to snuff for say $1000.00 and 3 days labor (not counting fixing the fixes that have been done since purchase). Trouble is GT has to PAY for the 3 days labor.
Unfortunately the car is headed down the same road so many of these cars head down in the hands of owners ill equipped to deal with the maintenance.
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
So it is doing the same thing it was doing before replacing the old battery, sounds like it didn't need the battery to start with?
Oh, and and I'm sorry, but anything with a red universal battery hold down is a ghetto.
That is very possible that it maybe didnt "need" the new ($136.99) battery.... However, all the white stuff coming from in/around the battery had me concerned. I even bought the chargers to "fix" the old battery (desulphate, etc..) but I can use it (the older CTEK) on the new battery as well. I am sure it still works fine.. But old, undated battery vs. new one.. better.
As to the hold-down: GUILTY!
I will do my best to report back what the diagnosis - and fix- is/was for the "no start" after it started and ran. So far, we have:
1. Fuel pump
2. VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor)
3. CPS
- as suspects.
(4. Fuel Filter??)
Would be nice if it could stay in for its timing belt. I wish. But that won't happen, yet.. (*isn't in my custody at the exact moment. next year, maybe, I can help it - the car) Don't worry, we aren't going to let it go to [censored].
Still confused as to why the heated seats don't STAY warm.....
I hate to say it but it has already gone to [censored].
I don't think the heated seats are really important in the grand scheme of things.
Perhaps they are knackered.
Old premium market cars have a habit of having premium priced problems, just because they are worth very little doesn't make them cheap to fix.
Hence why you have been advised to get rid of this car, if you are short of money you need to consider repair costs in your purchase decision.
There is no point buying a car that needs money spent to get it to a reasonable roadworthy condition.
It isn't as though the car was actually that cheap.
He did not get that bad of a deal on the car.
The problem is that he has ZERO knowledge/tools/place to work on/money. I am not trying to be mean, it is just the truth. Bit of truth to the stuck in transmit comment too, but I digress.
I am guessing I could bring the car up to snuff for say $1000.00 and 3 days labor (not counting fixing the fixes that have been done since purchase). Trouble is GT has to PAY for the 3 days labor.
Unfortunately the car is headed down the same road so many of these cars head down in the hands of owners ill equipped to deal with the maintenance.
GHT - you have got to stop operating in the "Fire!...uh, oh, uh, ready...um...aim" mode. Observe first, orient (do research), decide, then act.
Yes, this is John Boyd's OODA loop...but it will save you from all the mistakes that you've been making from manic, frantic action before thinking...and put your forum participation in "read" mode...not "type"... Most of your problems have been covered...but by failing to listen, you've lost most of the Volvo owners...
OK, this car holds 17 gallons. You let it get low and then sit...that invites condensation, varnish and a host of problems, particularly as the temperature drops...
Check current to the fuel pump. This vintage is known for fuel pump relay failure...it is also known (as pointed out before) for fuel pump check valve failure. You were given a method to check...but you didn't follow it...
You cleared the codes without reading them. A failing cam position sensor, or crank position sensor, on this engine will set a code before it goes completely. Cam position sensor is more likely.
Finally, get an owners manual and READ IT. You can download one here: http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/yourvolvo/volvo-vehicle-information-library/Pages/default.aspx
It will tell you not to pump the gas...and that the seat heat shuts off after a few minutes...part of the "orient" step...
Yes, this is John Boyd's OODA loop...but it will save you from all the mistakes that you've been making from manic, frantic action before thinking...and put your forum participation in "read" mode...not "type"... Most of your problems have been covered...but by failing to listen, you've lost most of the Volvo owners...
OK, this car holds 17 gallons. You let it get low and then sit...that invites condensation, varnish and a host of problems, particularly as the temperature drops...
Check current to the fuel pump. This vintage is known for fuel pump relay failure...it is also known (as pointed out before) for fuel pump check valve failure. You were given a method to check...but you didn't follow it...
You cleared the codes without reading them. A failing cam position sensor, or crank position sensor, on this engine will set a code before it goes completely. Cam position sensor is more likely.
Finally, get an owners manual and READ IT. You can download one here: http://www.volvocars.com/us/top/yourvolvo/volvo-vehicle-information-library/Pages/default.aspx
It will tell you not to pump the gas...and that the seat heat shuts off after a few minutes...part of the "orient" step...
Last edited:
NOBODY is going to get through to GHT
He's been told to do the most simple and inexpensive things that would have been the most beneficial to his vehicle (eg 5$ OEM Volvo battery clamp) and he simply will NOT listen.
He's been told to do the most simple and inexpensive things that would have been the most beneficial to his vehicle (eg 5$ OEM Volvo battery clamp) and he simply will NOT listen.
I love this place. There are many here who come "asking" yet pay little attention to the very advice that could help them!
Always the best entertainment around...
Always the best entertainment around...
Good morning, everyone.
A few things to clear up before I begin here:
Firstly, I just went and visited the Volvo. (Yes, at Sam's.) They informed me that they "started it up when they saw it, and it died soon after" (I assume that to mean "stall.") So, there is something going on that is causing it to not run right, or start consstently. Bets are on spark, and "some kind of sensor." I asked someone that looked knowledgeable there in the lobby, and they said "It could be anything." (I also know another from a long time ago that said the same of a "crank no start" condition.) The shop also speculated that it could be plugs.. We ruled out the shifter because it did, in fact, start. So, maybe something with a sensor or spark.. though they will diagnose. That is the latest on what it is doing, etc.
Now, moving on. I will address some of the other things mentioned in the other thread, and I need to thank those that are at my defense, and I will address some of my pundits! Here we go: It is suggested by some that I "do not listen." It is also suggested that I "Disregard any and all advice given" (cited as the main peeve of Volvohead.) THESE THINGS ARE NOT TRUE!!~ What IS true is that, I have come into a unique set of factors, and I am endeavoring to do the most that I can do. I read all advice given, and at this stage in the game, I leave the links where they are, etc so that when I can make use of them, i can go back and look and CHECK THE THINGS SUGGESTED! That is right. I can't do it right away, on every thing. However, this place is an invaluabel resource!
Let us review some of the things at play:
1. I got a good deal on a car.
2. This car is not 100% mine.
3. As of recent, I am simply second fiddle on thsi car *no longer primary driver at this time.
4. Both my friend and I love the car.
5. I know about cars.. so does she. She assumes the worst case scenario, yet loves when the car works; I do nt.. I am aware of a problem, but I do not assume 'death" whenever one comes our way. She does...
6. The Volvo DOES bode well for her "artistic flair," as some pointed out. (By the way, check the Boston Globe for the last few days. Without going into detais, it bodes well for this "artistic flair" and you know she is a singer. That is all I am saying about that.)
I want to thank those that come to my defense. It is true: THIS IS "MY" FIRST VOLVO!!! Also. This car sees REGULAR USE!!! If I had the money in my pocket, I would tell Sam "Please do not give this car back without doing the timing belt!" However, that lives to see another day. I knew right away the timing belt did not snap because I have had a car once snap its timing belt and all you hear is a high-pitcher "whitrrrr" when you attempt to start it.. not "crankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrank" and not catch like the Volvo did.
So, to be fair.. I can see how it gives the appearance that I "don't listen."
As to that, see the above.
Let us please focus on the Volvo.. and Thank you, again, all.
Quote:
He's been told to do the most simple and inexpensive things that would have been the most beneficial to his vehicle (eg 5$ OEM Volvo battery clamp) and he simply will NOT listen.
Case in point: Ever consider that it has now become extremely difficult - no, impossible for me to get to the dealer, since I no longer drive the car every day? Thank you.
A few things to clear up before I begin here:
Firstly, I just went and visited the Volvo. (Yes, at Sam's.) They informed me that they "started it up when they saw it, and it died soon after" (I assume that to mean "stall.") So, there is something going on that is causing it to not run right, or start consstently. Bets are on spark, and "some kind of sensor." I asked someone that looked knowledgeable there in the lobby, and they said "It could be anything." (I also know another from a long time ago that said the same of a "crank no start" condition.) The shop also speculated that it could be plugs.. We ruled out the shifter because it did, in fact, start. So, maybe something with a sensor or spark.. though they will diagnose. That is the latest on what it is doing, etc.
Now, moving on. I will address some of the other things mentioned in the other thread, and I need to thank those that are at my defense, and I will address some of my pundits! Here we go: It is suggested by some that I "do not listen." It is also suggested that I "Disregard any and all advice given" (cited as the main peeve of Volvohead.) THESE THINGS ARE NOT TRUE!!~ What IS true is that, I have come into a unique set of factors, and I am endeavoring to do the most that I can do. I read all advice given, and at this stage in the game, I leave the links where they are, etc so that when I can make use of them, i can go back and look and CHECK THE THINGS SUGGESTED! That is right. I can't do it right away, on every thing. However, this place is an invaluabel resource!
Let us review some of the things at play:
1. I got a good deal on a car.
2. This car is not 100% mine.
3. As of recent, I am simply second fiddle on thsi car *no longer primary driver at this time.
4. Both my friend and I love the car.
5. I know about cars.. so does she. She assumes the worst case scenario, yet loves when the car works; I do nt.. I am aware of a problem, but I do not assume 'death" whenever one comes our way. She does...
6. The Volvo DOES bode well for her "artistic flair," as some pointed out. (By the way, check the Boston Globe for the last few days. Without going into detais, it bodes well for this "artistic flair" and you know she is a singer. That is all I am saying about that.)
I want to thank those that come to my defense. It is true: THIS IS "MY" FIRST VOLVO!!! Also. This car sees REGULAR USE!!! If I had the money in my pocket, I would tell Sam "Please do not give this car back without doing the timing belt!" However, that lives to see another day. I knew right away the timing belt did not snap because I have had a car once snap its timing belt and all you hear is a high-pitcher "whitrrrr" when you attempt to start it.. not "crankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrankcrank" and not catch like the Volvo did.
So, to be fair.. I can see how it gives the appearance that I "don't listen."
As to that, see the above.
Let us please focus on the Volvo.. and Thank you, again, all.
Quote:
He's been told to do the most simple and inexpensive things that would have been the most beneficial to his vehicle (eg 5$ OEM Volvo battery clamp) and he simply will NOT listen.
Case in point: Ever consider that it has now become extremely difficult - no, impossible for me to get to the dealer, since I no longer drive the car every day? Thank you.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Firstly, I just went and visited the Volvo. (Yes, at Sam's.) They informed me that they "started it up when they saw it, and it died soon after" (I assume that to mean "stall.") So, there is something going on that is causing it to not run right, or start consstently. Bets are on spark, and "some kind of sensor."
Yes, you've been given advice on this that it is probably cam or crank position sensor, as this will cause a no spark condition.
Quote:
I asked someone that looked knowledgeable there in the lobby, and they said "It could be anything." (I also know another from a long time ago that said the same of a "crank no start" condition.)
No, it is likely a very short list of things that cause this specific condition.
Quote:
The shop also speculated that it could be plugs..
ALL of the plugs are going to go bad at once? Think about that one.....
Quote:
We ruled out the shifter because it did, in fact, start. So, maybe something with a sensor or spark.. though they will diagnose. That is the latest on what it is doing, etc.
Well spark is one of the easiest possible things to check for here....
Firstly, I just went and visited the Volvo. (Yes, at Sam's.) They informed me that they "started it up when they saw it, and it died soon after" (I assume that to mean "stall.") So, there is something going on that is causing it to not run right, or start consstently. Bets are on spark, and "some kind of sensor."
Yes, you've been given advice on this that it is probably cam or crank position sensor, as this will cause a no spark condition.
Quote:
I asked someone that looked knowledgeable there in the lobby, and they said "It could be anything." (I also know another from a long time ago that said the same of a "crank no start" condition.)
No, it is likely a very short list of things that cause this specific condition.
Quote:
The shop also speculated that it could be plugs..
ALL of the plugs are going to go bad at once? Think about that one.....
Quote:
We ruled out the shifter because it did, in fact, start. So, maybe something with a sensor or spark.. though they will diagnose. That is the latest on what it is doing, etc.
Well spark is one of the easiest possible things to check for here....
"I know about cars"
"I got a good deal on a car"
Look at those two statements.
From your posts you know next to nothing about cars.
$2000 for a car that has been run into the ground, dashboard looks like a Christmas tree and had breaks that were in such a bad condition as to be operating certainly a lot less efficiently than they should be.
And your first posts are saying you believe it to be sludged up due to lack of basic maintenance.
The car was not cheap at the price you paid.
It would have been cheap if it was well maintained, had a history of regular maintenance and had new tyres and new brakes and there were no warning lights illuminated.
The dealer, and he was a dealer, bought the car or took he car as a trade-in for certainly half of what he got from you.
He got a good deal, not you.
I have bought and sold cars for years, part time whilst working for the NHS and previous to that when I ran a Garage.
I shall try and explain a good deal on a car.
I bought my Volvo, just over three yeas old, with above average miles, can't remember but I think it was mid 90k, for £4700.
Now at the time most Volvos of this type, engine and year were in the Autotrader for the £6000/6500 region.
I have had a year and a half out of this car, it is now coming up to 116k miles and in Autotrader they are being advertised in the range of £5250/5750 with my cars mileage.
In the time of ownership the car has required a set of tyres, I put on winters, and they are still on there.
I have changed the oil and oil filter several times and changed the air filter and last week the fuel filter.
No warning lights, no cheap get me going brake jobs, no ABS modules and apart from the fun of trying to bleed a diesel without a tank based lift pump after changing the fuel filter the vehicle has been trouble free.
And is still worth a lot more than I paid for it.
I was offered £4500 by the CarGiant car supermarket a month or so ago, and they are known to offer rock bottom prices.
Any vehicle that spends the first few months of ownership in and out of a Garage is only good deal if the dealer you bought it from pays the bills.
Why are you not asking the dealer to fix there problems.
The only reason I can see to buy from a dealer is to have legal come back if be sells you a lemon, which the dealer clearly has.
Now it is also common for dodgy traders in the UK to pretend to be private sellers to avoid these responsibilities.
The uninformed buyer thinks he has got a car for less than he should, the dealer has successfully got rid of a lemon that would have cost him a fortune in getting up to a reasonable condition for resale.
I think I will follow in the footsteps of VolvoHead now.
"I got a good deal on a car"
Look at those two statements.
From your posts you know next to nothing about cars.
$2000 for a car that has been run into the ground, dashboard looks like a Christmas tree and had breaks that were in such a bad condition as to be operating certainly a lot less efficiently than they should be.
And your first posts are saying you believe it to be sludged up due to lack of basic maintenance.
The car was not cheap at the price you paid.
It would have been cheap if it was well maintained, had a history of regular maintenance and had new tyres and new brakes and there were no warning lights illuminated.
The dealer, and he was a dealer, bought the car or took he car as a trade-in for certainly half of what he got from you.
He got a good deal, not you.
I have bought and sold cars for years, part time whilst working for the NHS and previous to that when I ran a Garage.
I shall try and explain a good deal on a car.
I bought my Volvo, just over three yeas old, with above average miles, can't remember but I think it was mid 90k, for £4700.
Now at the time most Volvos of this type, engine and year were in the Autotrader for the £6000/6500 region.
I have had a year and a half out of this car, it is now coming up to 116k miles and in Autotrader they are being advertised in the range of £5250/5750 with my cars mileage.
In the time of ownership the car has required a set of tyres, I put on winters, and they are still on there.
I have changed the oil and oil filter several times and changed the air filter and last week the fuel filter.
No warning lights, no cheap get me going brake jobs, no ABS modules and apart from the fun of trying to bleed a diesel without a tank based lift pump after changing the fuel filter the vehicle has been trouble free.
And is still worth a lot more than I paid for it.
I was offered £4500 by the CarGiant car supermarket a month or so ago, and they are known to offer rock bottom prices.
Any vehicle that spends the first few months of ownership in and out of a Garage is only good deal if the dealer you bought it from pays the bills.
Why are you not asking the dealer to fix there problems.
The only reason I can see to buy from a dealer is to have legal come back if be sells you a lemon, which the dealer clearly has.
Now it is also common for dodgy traders in the UK to pretend to be private sellers to avoid these responsibilities.
The uninformed buyer thinks he has got a car for less than he should, the dealer has successfully got rid of a lemon that would have cost him a fortune in getting up to a reasonable condition for resale.
I think I will follow in the footsteps of VolvoHead now.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Case in point: Ever consider that it has now become extremely difficult - no, impossible for me to get to the dealer, since I no longer drive the car every day? Thank you.
What you can't get a friend or family member to give you a ride down to the dealer(s)? Or perhaps they could pick the part up for you if they pass a Volvo store by?
Sorry man...but my [censored] detector is PEGGED at max!
Case in point: Ever consider that it has now become extremely difficult - no, impossible for me to get to the dealer, since I no longer drive the car every day? Thank you.
What you can't get a friend or family member to give you a ride down to the dealer(s)? Or perhaps they could pick the part up for you if they pass a Volvo store by?
Sorry man...but my [censored] detector is PEGGED at max!
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Case in point: Ever consider that it has now become extremely difficult - no, impossible for me to get to the dealer, since I no longer drive the car every day? Thank you.
What you can't get a friend or family member to give you a ride down to the dealer(s)? Or perhaps they could pick the part up for you if they pass a Volvo store by?
Sorry man...but my [censored] detector is PEGGED at max!
Sir...:
1. I am the only one that has been assigned maintenance of the Volvo. it is just me and my singer friend lady, whom is a person of size (was too large for the Subaru Outback) and is my best friend.
2. In the new use pattern we have of the car, I can no longer get to Norwell.
For the above two reasons, I can not[/b[ get the appropriate $5 tie-down, and the jerry-rigged, ghetto, more expensive, doesn't fit and looks like [censored] AAP (Advance Auto Parts) one will have to do.
Trust me, I would get it it.. IF I COULD. But we are having different schedules... So it will have to wait until a day I have the car and can pick it up in 20 minutes...
Quote:
"I know about cars"
"I got a good deal on a car"
"I know about cars" = I have had several, and do in fact know basic principles of how they work, and what can be wrong at a certain time. I am being brave in joining the "thin oil" craze. However, I believe that it could be valid. So I am.
"I got a good deal on a car" - $2000 for this wasn't bad!
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Case in point: Ever consider that it has now become extremely difficult - no, impossible for me to get to the dealer, since I no longer drive the car every day? Thank you.
What you can't get a friend or family member to give you a ride down to the dealer(s)? Or perhaps they could pick the part up for you if they pass a Volvo store by?
Sorry man...but my [censored] detector is PEGGED at max!
Sir...:
1. I am the only one that has been assigned maintenance of the Volvo. it is just me and my singer friend lady, whom is a person of size (was too large for the Subaru Outback) and is my best friend.
2. In the new use pattern we have of the car, I can no longer get to Norwell.
For the above two reasons, I can not[/b[ get the appropriate $5 tie-down, and the jerry-rigged, ghetto, more expensive, doesn't fit and looks like [censored] AAP (Advance Auto Parts) one will have to do.
Trust me, I would get it it.. IF I COULD. But we are having different schedules... So it will have to wait until a day I have the car and can pick it up in 20 minutes...
Quote:
"I know about cars"
"I got a good deal on a car"
"I know about cars" = I have had several, and do in fact know basic principles of how they work, and what can be wrong at a certain time. I am being brave in joining the "thin oil" craze. However, I believe that it could be valid. So I am.
"I got a good deal on a car" - $2000 for this wasn't bad!
You need to get in touch with reality.
Having owned several cars does not mean you know anything about them.
I have a friend that has owned loads of cars, over the time I have known him perhaps 8/9 cars.
He knows as much about cars as he does about Nuclear Fusion, in other words, nothing.
There comes a time when you have to "man up" and taste the coffee.
You are not the first and will not be the last to buy a car like you have done.
Sam loves you as he needs to pay his wages and rent.
When I ran a garage in London many years ago do you know how many customers I had just like you?
Lots, I made the boss a fortune.
The only difference is that my customers were mainly well off professionals like Dr's and Solicitors due to the Garages location.
Back then I would have given the same advice as I have given you to somebody in your financial position.
This car is a nice drive, a friend from school has one up in Aberdeen converted to LPG. He loves it, fast, comfortable etc.
But it was well maintained by the previous owners and I can assure you if it proved to be as troublesome as yours it would be gone.
He previously had a really nice VW Passat W8 estate.
Paid top money and a real minter.
After a year it started to cost him a lot of money, coil packs and god knows what else.
The result was he got rid before it cost him a fortune.
Now both of these cars are expensive to repair and not cheap to service.
And had been well maintained, not neglected like yours.
He had the money to spend to repair them but why chuck money as a problem when you can sell it and make it somebody else's problem?
My mate isn't struggling to make ends meet, and his wife isn't a singer with non regular source of income.
He is an Airline Pilot with a B Eng Degree in Mechanical Engineering his wife works for an Oil Company and has both a BA degree and a Masters.
My mate also knows little about what make a car tick, he pays a mechanic for that.
I am giving you genuine advice, try and take it.
And try to not over estimate your knowledge, being able to plug in a code reader and clear codes does not mean you know anything about cars.
Sadly I think you are going to continue on your path regardless and will only listen to opinions that are in line with yours.
I your current journey doesn't waste too much of you and your friends money.
Having owned several cars does not mean you know anything about them.
I have a friend that has owned loads of cars, over the time I have known him perhaps 8/9 cars.
He knows as much about cars as he does about Nuclear Fusion, in other words, nothing.
There comes a time when you have to "man up" and taste the coffee.
You are not the first and will not be the last to buy a car like you have done.
Sam loves you as he needs to pay his wages and rent.
When I ran a garage in London many years ago do you know how many customers I had just like you?
Lots, I made the boss a fortune.
The only difference is that my customers were mainly well off professionals like Dr's and Solicitors due to the Garages location.
Back then I would have given the same advice as I have given you to somebody in your financial position.
This car is a nice drive, a friend from school has one up in Aberdeen converted to LPG. He loves it, fast, comfortable etc.
But it was well maintained by the previous owners and I can assure you if it proved to be as troublesome as yours it would be gone.
He previously had a really nice VW Passat W8 estate.
Paid top money and a real minter.
After a year it started to cost him a lot of money, coil packs and god knows what else.
The result was he got rid before it cost him a fortune.
Now both of these cars are expensive to repair and not cheap to service.
And had been well maintained, not neglected like yours.
He had the money to spend to repair them but why chuck money as a problem when you can sell it and make it somebody else's problem?
My mate isn't struggling to make ends meet, and his wife isn't a singer with non regular source of income.
He is an Airline Pilot with a B Eng Degree in Mechanical Engineering his wife works for an Oil Company and has both a BA degree and a Masters.
My mate also knows little about what make a car tick, he pays a mechanic for that.
I am giving you genuine advice, try and take it.
And try to not over estimate your knowledge, being able to plug in a code reader and clear codes does not mean you know anything about cars.
Sadly I think you are going to continue on your path regardless and will only listen to opinions that are in line with yours.
I your current journey doesn't waste too much of you and your friends money.
Originally Posted By: bigjl
You need to get in touch with reality.
Having owned several cars does not mean you know anything about them.
I have a friend that has owned loads of cars, over the time I have known him perhaps 8/9 cars.
He knows as much about cars as he does about Nuclear Fusion, in other words, nothing.
There comes a time when you have to "man up" and taste the coffee.
You are not the first and will not be the last to buy a car like you have done.
Sam loves you as he needs to pay his wages and rent.
When I ran a garage in London many years ago do you know how many customers I had just like you?
Lots, I made the boss a fortune.
The only difference is that my customers were mainly well off professionals like Dr's and Solicitors due to the Garages location.
Back then I would have given the same advice as I have given you to somebody in your financial position.
This car is a nice drive, a friend from school has one up in Aberdeen converted to LPG. He loves it, fast, comfortable etc.
But it was well maintained by the previous owners and I can assure you if it proved to be as troublesome as yours it would be gone.
He previously had a really nice VW Passat W8 estate.
Paid top money and a real minter.
After a year it started to cost him a lot of money, coil packs and god knows what else.
The result was he got rid before it cost him a fortune.
Now both of these cars are expensive to repair and not cheap to service.
And had been well maintained, not neglected like yours.
He had the money to spend to repair them but why chuck money as a problem when you can sell it and make it somebody else's problem?
My mate isn't struggling to make ends meet, and his wife isn't a singer with non regular source of income.
He is an Airline Pilot with a B Eng Degree in Mechanical Engineering his wife works for an Oil Company and has both a BA degree and a Masters.
My mate also knows little about what make a car tick, he pays a mechanic for that.
I am giving you genuine advice, try and take it.
And try to not over estimate your knowledge, being able to plug in a code reader and clear codes does not mean you know anything about cars.
Sadly I think you are going to continue on your path regardless and will only listen to opinions that are in line with yours.
I your current journey doesn't waste too much of you and your friends money.
bigjl... You are right that my singer friend and I are committed to making this Volvo work. However, that doesn't mean that I do not appreciate what you are telling me.
I will likely end up with a second car in 2013, should it continue to prove troublesome!
I hope you don't feel that this is "not listening to what you are saying.." Only that: I virtually have to keep the car lovely, due to the person that PAYS for a lot of the maintenance.. but gives me the $$ to take it, and get it done!!! (I chip in when I can, yes. But I am poor.)
We did sort of "marry" the Volvo...
You need to get in touch with reality.
Having owned several cars does not mean you know anything about them.
I have a friend that has owned loads of cars, over the time I have known him perhaps 8/9 cars.
He knows as much about cars as he does about Nuclear Fusion, in other words, nothing.
There comes a time when you have to "man up" and taste the coffee.
You are not the first and will not be the last to buy a car like you have done.
Sam loves you as he needs to pay his wages and rent.
When I ran a garage in London many years ago do you know how many customers I had just like you?
Lots, I made the boss a fortune.
The only difference is that my customers were mainly well off professionals like Dr's and Solicitors due to the Garages location.
Back then I would have given the same advice as I have given you to somebody in your financial position.
This car is a nice drive, a friend from school has one up in Aberdeen converted to LPG. He loves it, fast, comfortable etc.
But it was well maintained by the previous owners and I can assure you if it proved to be as troublesome as yours it would be gone.
He previously had a really nice VW Passat W8 estate.
Paid top money and a real minter.
After a year it started to cost him a lot of money, coil packs and god knows what else.
The result was he got rid before it cost him a fortune.
Now both of these cars are expensive to repair and not cheap to service.
And had been well maintained, not neglected like yours.
He had the money to spend to repair them but why chuck money as a problem when you can sell it and make it somebody else's problem?
My mate isn't struggling to make ends meet, and his wife isn't a singer with non regular source of income.
He is an Airline Pilot with a B Eng Degree in Mechanical Engineering his wife works for an Oil Company and has both a BA degree and a Masters.
My mate also knows little about what make a car tick, he pays a mechanic for that.
I am giving you genuine advice, try and take it.
And try to not over estimate your knowledge, being able to plug in a code reader and clear codes does not mean you know anything about cars.
Sadly I think you are going to continue on your path regardless and will only listen to opinions that are in line with yours.
I your current journey doesn't waste too much of you and your friends money.
bigjl... You are right that my singer friend and I are committed to making this Volvo work. However, that doesn't mean that I do not appreciate what you are telling me.
I will likely end up with a second car in 2013, should it continue to prove troublesome!
I hope you don't feel that this is "not listening to what you are saying.." Only that: I virtually have to keep the car lovely, due to the person that PAYS for a lot of the maintenance.. but gives me the $$ to take it, and get it done!!! (I chip in when I can, yes. But I am poor.)
We did sort of "marry" the Volvo...
I can only wish you luck.
If you do buy a second car next year I would try to stick to US made cars, I believe that will give a wide choice as I believe some Japanese manufacturers now have factories in the US.
VW can be more unreliable than the PR companies would have you believe.
But one reason why Ford are popular in the UK is cheap parts and everybody can fix them. Vauxhall (GM) are also popular for the same reason.
And try to avoid bargain hunting if it means buying a car that has been run on a shoestring.
A good and very quick way to identify a car run by somebody that understands good maintenance standards is the tyres.
Find four odd Chinese budgets or other no name tyres would indicate that the previous owner was cash poor or felt the vehicle maintenance is a spend as little at all costs situation.
A set of upmarket tyres such as Michelin or similar, all with good tread would tend to indicate a vehicle worth further investigation.
This is just a quick way I assess a car in the twenty seconds you have as the car goes through at a car auction in the UK.
And is how I have bought 50/60 cars over the last decade or so.
I only buy and sell the odd car to "flip them" as some say in the US.
Doing this satisfied my car tinkering bug when I owned cars that were under warranty and to provide some much needed extra dosh.
Also don't underestimate the value in South Korean makes like Hyundia, not sure if you get Kia in the US, I believe most of the UK Chevrolets are made in Korea aswell and are dull but reliable.
Getting "attached" to a car is nothing new.
Just keep in mind my advice, if it looks like the break/fix scenario is becoming expensive then time to give it the clean and polish of its life. Shine the tyres. And offload it, use the money to buy a better one of what you have.
Your Volvo is one of many, there is nothing wrong with selling the neglected one and finding a better one, then you can use information and knowledge cleaned from this car in looking after the new one and you will have years of good service from it.
If you need to climb a mountain don't make your life hard by digging a hole and jumping into it first!
If you do buy a second car next year I would try to stick to US made cars, I believe that will give a wide choice as I believe some Japanese manufacturers now have factories in the US.
VW can be more unreliable than the PR companies would have you believe.
But one reason why Ford are popular in the UK is cheap parts and everybody can fix them. Vauxhall (GM) are also popular for the same reason.
And try to avoid bargain hunting if it means buying a car that has been run on a shoestring.
A good and very quick way to identify a car run by somebody that understands good maintenance standards is the tyres.
Find four odd Chinese budgets or other no name tyres would indicate that the previous owner was cash poor or felt the vehicle maintenance is a spend as little at all costs situation.
A set of upmarket tyres such as Michelin or similar, all with good tread would tend to indicate a vehicle worth further investigation.
This is just a quick way I assess a car in the twenty seconds you have as the car goes through at a car auction in the UK.
And is how I have bought 50/60 cars over the last decade or so.
I only buy and sell the odd car to "flip them" as some say in the US.
Doing this satisfied my car tinkering bug when I owned cars that were under warranty and to provide some much needed extra dosh.
Also don't underestimate the value in South Korean makes like Hyundia, not sure if you get Kia in the US, I believe most of the UK Chevrolets are made in Korea aswell and are dull but reliable.
Getting "attached" to a car is nothing new.
Just keep in mind my advice, if it looks like the break/fix scenario is becoming expensive then time to give it the clean and polish of its life. Shine the tyres. And offload it, use the money to buy a better one of what you have.
Your Volvo is one of many, there is nothing wrong with selling the neglected one and finding a better one, then you can use information and knowledge cleaned from this car in looking after the new one and you will have years of good service from it.
If you need to climb a mountain don't make your life hard by digging a hole and jumping into it first!
Originally Posted By: bigjl
"I know about cars"
"I got a good deal on a car"
Look at those two statements.
From your posts you know next to nothing about cars.
$2000 for a car that has been run into the ground, dashboard looks like a Christmas tree and had breaks that were in such a bad condition as to be operating certainly a lot less efficiently than they should be.
And your first posts are saying you believe it to be sludged up due to lack of basic maintenance.
The car was not cheap at the price you paid.
It would have been cheap if it was well maintained, had a history of regular maintenance and had new tyres and new brakes and there were no warning lights illuminated.
The dealer, and he was a dealer, bought the car or took he car as a trade-in for certainly half of what he got from you.
He got a good deal, not you.
I have bought and sold cars for years, part time whilst working for the NHS and previous to that when I ran a Garage.
I shall try and explain a good deal on a car.
I bought my Volvo, just over three yeas old, with above average miles, can't remember but I think it was mid 90k, for £4700.
Now at the time most Volvos of this type, engine and year were in the Autotrader for the £6000/6500 region.
I have had a year and a half out of this car, it is now coming up to 116k miles and in Autotrader they are being advertised in the range of £5250/5750 with my cars mileage.
In the time of ownership the car has required a set of tyres, I put on winters, and they are still on there.
I have changed the oil and oil filter several times and changed the air filter and last week the fuel filter.
No warning lights, no cheap get me going brake jobs, no ABS modules and apart from the fun of trying to bleed a diesel without a tank based lift pump after changing the fuel filter the vehicle has been trouble free.
And is still worth a lot more than I paid for it.
I was offered £4500 by the CarGiant car supermarket a month or so ago, and they are known to offer rock bottom prices.
Any vehicle that spends the first few months of ownership in and out of a Garage is only good deal if the dealer you bought it from pays the bills.
Why are you not asking the dealer to fix there problems.
The only reason I can see to buy from a dealer is to have legal come back if be sells you a lemon, which the dealer clearly has.
Now it is also common for dodgy traders in the UK to pretend to be private sellers to avoid these responsibilities.
The uninformed buyer thinks he has got a car for less than he should, the dealer has successfully got rid of a lemon that would have cost him a fortune in getting up to a reasonable condition for resale.
I think I will follow in the footsteps of VolvoHead now.
+ 1
"I know about cars"
"I got a good deal on a car"
Look at those two statements.
From your posts you know next to nothing about cars.
$2000 for a car that has been run into the ground, dashboard looks like a Christmas tree and had breaks that were in such a bad condition as to be operating certainly a lot less efficiently than they should be.
And your first posts are saying you believe it to be sludged up due to lack of basic maintenance.
The car was not cheap at the price you paid.
It would have been cheap if it was well maintained, had a history of regular maintenance and had new tyres and new brakes and there were no warning lights illuminated.
The dealer, and he was a dealer, bought the car or took he car as a trade-in for certainly half of what he got from you.
He got a good deal, not you.
I have bought and sold cars for years, part time whilst working for the NHS and previous to that when I ran a Garage.
I shall try and explain a good deal on a car.
I bought my Volvo, just over three yeas old, with above average miles, can't remember but I think it was mid 90k, for £4700.
Now at the time most Volvos of this type, engine and year were in the Autotrader for the £6000/6500 region.
I have had a year and a half out of this car, it is now coming up to 116k miles and in Autotrader they are being advertised in the range of £5250/5750 with my cars mileage.
In the time of ownership the car has required a set of tyres, I put on winters, and they are still on there.
I have changed the oil and oil filter several times and changed the air filter and last week the fuel filter.
No warning lights, no cheap get me going brake jobs, no ABS modules and apart from the fun of trying to bleed a diesel without a tank based lift pump after changing the fuel filter the vehicle has been trouble free.
And is still worth a lot more than I paid for it.
I was offered £4500 by the CarGiant car supermarket a month or so ago, and they are known to offer rock bottom prices.
Any vehicle that spends the first few months of ownership in and out of a Garage is only good deal if the dealer you bought it from pays the bills.
Why are you not asking the dealer to fix there problems.
The only reason I can see to buy from a dealer is to have legal come back if be sells you a lemon, which the dealer clearly has.
Now it is also common for dodgy traders in the UK to pretend to be private sellers to avoid these responsibilities.
The uninformed buyer thinks he has got a car for less than he should, the dealer has successfully got rid of a lemon that would have cost him a fortune in getting up to a reasonable condition for resale.
I think I will follow in the footsteps of VolvoHead now.
+ 1
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Originally Posted By: bigjl
You need to get in touch with reality.
Having owned several cars does not mean you know anything about them.
I have a friend that has owned loads of cars, over the time I have known him perhaps 8/9 cars.
He knows as much about cars as he does about Nuclear Fusion, in other words, nothing.
There comes a time when you have to "man up" and taste the coffee.
You are not the first and will not be the last to buy a car like you have done.
Sam loves you as he needs to pay his wages and rent.
When I ran a garage in London many years ago do you know how many customers I had just like you?
Lots, I made the boss a fortune.
The only difference is that my customers were mainly well off professionals like Dr's and Solicitors due to the Garages location.
Back then I would have given the same advice as I have given you to somebody in your financial position.
This car is a nice drive, a friend from school has one up in Aberdeen converted to LPG. He loves it, fast, comfortable etc.
But it was well maintained by the previous owners and I can assure you if it proved to be as troublesome as yours it would be gone.
He previously had a really nice VW Passat W8 estate.
Paid top money and a real minter.
After a year it started to cost him a lot of money, coil packs and god knows what else.
The result was he got rid before it cost him a fortune.
Now both of these cars are expensive to repair and not cheap to service.
And had been well maintained, not neglected like yours.
He had the money to spend to repair them but why chuck money as a problem when you can sell it and make it somebody else's problem?
My mate isn't struggling to make ends meet, and his wife isn't a singer with non regular source of income.
He is an Airline Pilot with a B Eng Degree in Mechanical Engineering his wife works for an Oil Company and has both a BA degree and a Masters.
My mate also knows little about what make a car tick, he pays a mechanic for that.
I am giving you genuine advice, try and take it.
And try to not over estimate your knowledge, being able to plug in a code reader and clear codes does not mean you know anything about cars.
Sadly I think you are going to continue on your path regardless and will only listen to opinions that are in line with yours.
I your current journey doesn't waste too much of you and your friends money.
bigjl... You are right that my singer friend and I are committed to making this Volvo work. However, that doesn't mean that I do not appreciate what you are telling me.
I will likely end up with a second car in 2013, should it continue to prove troublesome!
I hope you don't feel that this is "not listening to what you are saying.." Only that: I virtually have to keep the car lovely, due to the person that PAYS for a lot of the maintenance.. but gives me the $$ to take it, and get it done!!! (I chip in when I can, yes. But I am poor.)
We did sort of "marry" the Volvo...
Do yourself a favor and buy a used Corolla, you may not look you are "livin the dream" in it but it will probably start EVERY time. And, there's parts by the TON on Rockauto.com, DE-livered. If your lady friend can't FIT in a Corolla she has a serious health issue. I don't say that to be mean spirited, if you are fond of the lady and want her to have a good quality of life, and a long one, you have to look at her weight and how quickly it can degrade her health.
Originally Posted By: bigjl
You need to get in touch with reality.
Having owned several cars does not mean you know anything about them.
I have a friend that has owned loads of cars, over the time I have known him perhaps 8/9 cars.
He knows as much about cars as he does about Nuclear Fusion, in other words, nothing.
There comes a time when you have to "man up" and taste the coffee.
You are not the first and will not be the last to buy a car like you have done.
Sam loves you as he needs to pay his wages and rent.
When I ran a garage in London many years ago do you know how many customers I had just like you?
Lots, I made the boss a fortune.
The only difference is that my customers were mainly well off professionals like Dr's and Solicitors due to the Garages location.
Back then I would have given the same advice as I have given you to somebody in your financial position.
This car is a nice drive, a friend from school has one up in Aberdeen converted to LPG. He loves it, fast, comfortable etc.
But it was well maintained by the previous owners and I can assure you if it proved to be as troublesome as yours it would be gone.
He previously had a really nice VW Passat W8 estate.
Paid top money and a real minter.
After a year it started to cost him a lot of money, coil packs and god knows what else.
The result was he got rid before it cost him a fortune.
Now both of these cars are expensive to repair and not cheap to service.
And had been well maintained, not neglected like yours.
He had the money to spend to repair them but why chuck money as a problem when you can sell it and make it somebody else's problem?
My mate isn't struggling to make ends meet, and his wife isn't a singer with non regular source of income.
He is an Airline Pilot with a B Eng Degree in Mechanical Engineering his wife works for an Oil Company and has both a BA degree and a Masters.
My mate also knows little about what make a car tick, he pays a mechanic for that.
I am giving you genuine advice, try and take it.
And try to not over estimate your knowledge, being able to plug in a code reader and clear codes does not mean you know anything about cars.
Sadly I think you are going to continue on your path regardless and will only listen to opinions that are in line with yours.
I your current journey doesn't waste too much of you and your friends money.
bigjl... You are right that my singer friend and I are committed to making this Volvo work. However, that doesn't mean that I do not appreciate what you are telling me.
I will likely end up with a second car in 2013, should it continue to prove troublesome!
I hope you don't feel that this is "not listening to what you are saying.." Only that: I virtually have to keep the car lovely, due to the person that PAYS for a lot of the maintenance.. but gives me the $$ to take it, and get it done!!! (I chip in when I can, yes. But I am poor.)
We did sort of "marry" the Volvo...
Do yourself a favor and buy a used Corolla, you may not look you are "livin the dream" in it but it will probably start EVERY time. And, there's parts by the TON on Rockauto.com, DE-livered. If your lady friend can't FIT in a Corolla she has a serious health issue. I don't say that to be mean spirited, if you are fond of the lady and want her to have a good quality of life, and a long one, you have to look at her weight and how quickly it can degrade her health.
Last edited:
Well....
We had a thought...
We KNOW Sam has NOT looked at the car yet. (It started for him, and he did all the oil changes for other cars that came in, etc.)
We were -considering- going down there and getting it, since he didn't DO anything to it yet. *Assuming it starts, etc.
I could change the spark plugs and maybe wires myself, and we suspect maybe the fuel filter is clogged (she thinks it was a fuel issue...)
Should we go ahead and try to get it out of there, before we are at Sam's mercy?
Or, just go down there and see what he is inclined to do, or what he thinks it is?
We had a thought...
We KNOW Sam has NOT looked at the car yet. (It started for him, and he did all the oil changes for other cars that came in, etc.)
We were -considering- going down there and getting it, since he didn't DO anything to it yet. *Assuming it starts, etc.
I could change the spark plugs and maybe wires myself, and we suspect maybe the fuel filter is clogged (she thinks it was a fuel issue...)
Should we go ahead and try to get it out of there, before we are at Sam's mercy?
Or, just go down there and see what he is inclined to do, or what he thinks it is?
Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Well....
We had a thought...
We KNOW Sam has NOT looked at the car yet. (It started for him, and he did all the oil changes for other cars that came in, etc.)
We were -considering- going down there and getting it, since he didn't DO anything to it yet. *Assuming it starts, etc.
I could change the spark plugs and maybe wires myself, and we suspect maybe the fuel filter is clogged (she thinks it was a fuel issue...)
Should we go ahead and try to get it out of there, before we are at Sam's mercy?
Or, just go down there and see what he is inclined to do, or what he thinks it is?
I don't know if Sam is the guy or not, but you most definitely should not go get it and change the wires and plugs yourself because that is not what is wrong with it - it will be yet another waste of money you do not have.
You have already been given a short list of likely causes (hint, plugs and wires were not on that short list.)
As I and others have urged you from the beginning, you need to get this car to a reputable Volvo specialist and get an honest and as accurate as possible assessment of what it needs. You also need to get over to SweedSpeed, BrickBoard, or Matthew's Volvo site (actually more than one of them) and start educating yourself. I say Volvo specialist because you don't want to pay for someone else's education.
Once you get said assessment, you need to divide it into "needs" and "wants". Hint timing belts and brakes are needs, wax and auto-Rx are wants.
And you need to delete AAP, Autozone and the other box stores from your vocabulary. You can order genuine parts online delivered to your door, no excuses.
Our doom and gloom Brit friend who talks like he knows the US market but does not is being too hard on you (or more accurately too hard on the car) (no need to reply Brit, you are are on ignore), but you need to really start listening (and availing yourself of) to the excellent advice given to you.
Well....
We had a thought...
We KNOW Sam has NOT looked at the car yet. (It started for him, and he did all the oil changes for other cars that came in, etc.)
We were -considering- going down there and getting it, since he didn't DO anything to it yet. *Assuming it starts, etc.
I could change the spark plugs and maybe wires myself, and we suspect maybe the fuel filter is clogged (she thinks it was a fuel issue...)
Should we go ahead and try to get it out of there, before we are at Sam's mercy?
Or, just go down there and see what he is inclined to do, or what he thinks it is?
I don't know if Sam is the guy or not, but you most definitely should not go get it and change the wires and plugs yourself because that is not what is wrong with it - it will be yet another waste of money you do not have.
You have already been given a short list of likely causes (hint, plugs and wires were not on that short list.)
As I and others have urged you from the beginning, you need to get this car to a reputable Volvo specialist and get an honest and as accurate as possible assessment of what it needs. You also need to get over to SweedSpeed, BrickBoard, or Matthew's Volvo site (actually more than one of them) and start educating yourself. I say Volvo specialist because you don't want to pay for someone else's education.
Once you get said assessment, you need to divide it into "needs" and "wants". Hint timing belts and brakes are needs, wax and auto-Rx are wants.
And you need to delete AAP, Autozone and the other box stores from your vocabulary. You can order genuine parts online delivered to your door, no excuses.
Our doom and gloom Brit friend who talks like he knows the US market but does not is being too hard on you (or more accurately too hard on the car) (no need to reply Brit, you are are on ignore), but you need to really start listening (and availing yourself of) to the excellent advice given to you.
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