Chemtool B12 in Oil

[artbuc]

Thought you would be interested in this. Berryman still recommends adding to cold oil. It can be added repeatedly without changing oil as long as you let oil come back to cold temperatures.

From Berryman:

“Yes, performing this treatment can address a sticking oil control ring; however, it may take more than one application, depending on the severity of the buildup and the design of engine. I would recommend doing the following…

Before anything else, put a drop of oil on a few different kinds of uncoated paper—computer paper, newsprint, etc. That will be your baseline color. Doing so while the oil is hot will help in comparing apples to apples. Then perform the service as described below.

The colder your engine starts out, the better because this lengthens the time the chemical is in the system. Once the oil has come up to operating temperature, all the solvents in the B-12 will have evaporated and you will be left only with your original oil plus any deposits it removed. At that point, put a drop of oil next to the original drops and see how they compare. If there was cleaning to be done, then you will see a difference in color.

If you do not have a way to visually confirm a benefit, i.e. less blue smoke out of the muffler, for instance, then you may want to repeat the treatment a time or two. Once the engine cools down, you can perform a repeat application and compare drops again. When the color of the drops stops changing, then you know you’ve done all you can do in the crankcase. The key with follow-ups is to let the engine return to ambient temperature each time. You never want to try to put B-12 into a hot crankcase.

Hope that helps. Feel free to call, text, or reply if you have any additional questions.

Best regards,
Dan Nowlan
Dir. of Chemical Development & Regulatory Affairs
Berryman Products, Inc.
mobile”

 

[GSCJR]

This poor guy's mobile is going to be lighting up the night sky.

 

[ripcord]

Yeah, might want to edit your post, artbuc

 

[fantastic]

I like the idea of a semi-aggressive oil system cleaner. There are different products out there & it's good to hear a response straight from the company about their products safe use. Makes me wonder if this compares at all to Berryman B12.

 

[Vitamin Yoda]

Once the oil has come up to operating temperature, all the solvents in the B-12 will have evaporated and you will be left only with your original oil plus any deposits it removed.

I don't like solvents in the engine because of all the plastics, like chain guides for instance, and all the seals. I'm sure they tested this, however, I doubt their testing can cover every possibility.

There are oils like Valvoline Blue Restore that are way safer to use.

I'd give HPL Engine Cleaner and then HPL motor a try before anything. Yes, it takes a while to see results (at least one or two OCIs), but it works, and it's safe.

 

[Elkins45]

I don't like solvents in the engine because of all the plastics, like chain guides for instance, and all the seals. I'm sure they tested this, however, I doubt their testing can cover every possibility.

There are oils like Valvoline Blue Restore that are way safer to use.

I'd give HPL Engine Cleaner and then HPL motor a try before anything. Yes, it takes a while to see results (at least one or two OCIs), but it works, and it's safe.

When I piston soaked my Scion I drained the oil and left the plug out and the catch pan under the car. AFAIK it just dripped through without contacting anything it might harm.

 

[demarpaint]

For a piston soak, yes, I'd pass on adding it to the oil.

 

[jetman]

When I piston soaked my Scion I drained the oil and left the plug out and the catch pan under the car. AFAIK it just dripped through without contacting anything it might harm.

5+ yrs & 63k miles ago, I did a multiday piston/combustion chamber soak w/Gunk Motor Medic with the drain plug out. Freed up the stuck piston rings and resultant 1 qt/1600 mile consumption problem. I also fixed the pcv issue (improved valve cover design-GM TSB) so it wouldn't happen again. 194k miles now and no makeup oil between changes

 

[Elkins45]

5+ yrs & 63k miles ago, I did a multiday piston/combustion chamber soak w/Gunk Motor Medic with the drain plug out. Freed up the stuck piston rings and resultant 1 qt/1600 mile consumption problem. I also fixed the pcv issue (improved valve cover design-GM TSB) so it wouldn't happen again. 194k miles now and no makeup oil between changes

Mine was burning a quart a quart every 300 miles. I soaked it twice about a year apart. The first soak took it to 1000 miles per quart and the second completely fixed it. I haven’t had to add oil during the last two change intervals.

 

[Mazomopar]

Wasn't having much hope, but figured oil solvent was worth a shot. 3.6 pentastar with VVT, cam phaser codes. Had a different vehicle once and changed out a phaser which wasn't ugly to do but kind of a time suck. Used BG EPR as instructed and drained oil. Went to put in oil plug but while threading it in, it felt like I had dropped the plug in sand. Was kind of grinding on the way in. Ran a couple quarts of new oil thru with plug out as a wash. Closed it back up and went for a drive. Time I got home, money light out. I reset codes and been good since. Just sayin.

 

[michaelluscher]

I wouldn't pour a whole can of B12 Chemtool into the crankcase, it's not meant for that
I have used it as a piston soak, with noticable improvement in oil consumption

Remember they also make a specific oil change flush
If it's similar, maybe diluted?
Maybe the same thing in a more expensive can
I don't have any facts at this time

 

[JHZR2]

For a piston soak, yes, I'd pass on adding it to the oil.

Though you really need to change the oil then to be sure. It will leak down that way too, only to dilute and then flash off.

The real question is how much does it really flash. One way to determine would be for someone who cares to pull a UOA sample, then add B-12 to the oil, run to hot and maybe a bit under light load for one or a few cycles, then take another UOA sample. If the lab does proper fuel dilution measurement, that plus the viscosity change may be insightful. To be really rigorous one might pull an intermediate sample after dumping in the B-12 to cold oil and maybe running for 30 seconds, so it mixes but doesn’t heat up and flash off.

 

[demarpaint]

Though you really need to change the oil then to be sure. It will leak down that way too, only to dilute and then flash off.

The real question is how much does it really flash. One way to determine would be for someone who cares to pull a UOA sample, then add B-12 to the oil, run to hot and maybe a bit under light load for one or a few cycles, then take another UOA sample. If the lab does proper fuel dilution measurement, that plus the viscosity change may be insightful. To be really rigorous one might pull an intermediate sample after dumping in the B-12 to cold oil and maybe running for 30 seconds, so it mixes but doesn’t heat up and flash off.

I took that for granted. I a$$umed an oil change would follow a piston soak.

 

[nicholas]

Thought you would be interested in this. Berryman still recommends adding to cold oil. It can be added repeatedly without changing oil as long as you let oil come back to cold temperatures.

From Berryman:

“Yes, performing this treatment can address a sticking oil control ring; however, it may take more than one application, depending on the severity of the buildup and the design of engine. I would recommend doing the following…

Before anything else, put a drop of oil on a few different kinds of uncoated paper—computer paper, newsprint, etc. That will be your baseline color. Doing so while the oil is hot will help in comparing apples to apples. Then perform the service as described below.

The colder your engine starts out, the better because this lengthens the time the chemical is in the system. Once the oil has come up to operating temperature, all the solvents in the B-12 will have evaporated and you will be left only with your original oil plus any deposits it removed. At that point, put a drop of oil next to the original drops and see how they compare. If there was cleaning to be done, then you will see a difference in color.

If you do not have a way to visually confirm a benefit, i.e. less blue smoke out of the muffler, for instance, then you may want to repeat the treatment a time or two. Once the engine cools down, you can perform a repeat application and compare drops again. When the color of the drops stops changing, then you know you’ve done all you can do in the crankcase. The key with follow-ups is to let the engine return to ambient temperature each time. You never want to try to put B-12 into a hot crankcase.

Hope that helps. Feel free to call, text, or reply if you have any additional questions.

Best regards,
Dan Nowlan
Dir. of Chemical Development & Regulatory Affairs
Berryman Products, Inc.
mobile”

That's kinda cool
Although, not sure how I feel about acetone in my engine with all those gaskets.