Anyone still using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum?

I'm using it in my 2016 5.0 F150. My 5.0 burns about 1/4 qt. / 1k miles. Not a lot by some standards, but way more than any Japanese made engine I've owned. Some of that 1/4 qt. ends up in the catch can. I just want to keep it as clean internally as possible. It is a little more $ though I get free shipping from Wallyworld when I buy 2. Otherwise not available in my area.
 
I stopped using Pennzoil oils after I saw about 20 different VOA's that show their anemic anti-wear and detergent additive package across all their oils. Also, their oils don't have the GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval, which many other oils already have.
Perplexing how their lower tier "PP" has Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval. I suspect PUP is capable of it, but they haven't gotten around to the licensing thing yet.
 
Perplexing how their lower tier "PP" has Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval. I suspect PUP is capable of it, but they haven't gotten around to the licensing thing yet.
That's likely the case as PUP doesn't sell nearly as much as PP.

Both are good, but don't contain any esters FWIW.
 
Perplexing how their lower tier "PP" has Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval. I suspect PUP is capable of it, but they haven't gotten around to the licensing thing yet.
I doubt it’s that they “haven’t gotten around to it” as much as since they sell less, and it’s also their higher tier oil, either they don’t want to pay the licensing fees or there are higher levels of additives than are allowed to meet the dexos requirements.

It’s likely a “meets or exceeds” but doesn’t pass to the letter of the spec.
 
Perplexing how their lower tier "PP" has Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval. I suspect PUP is capable of it, but they haven't gotten around to the licensing thing yet.
That's the reason I switched back to PP, not LSPI friendly.
 
While I've been using PP/PUP for well over 15 years, I'm always open to others.

As I mentioned, on my Kona (1.6TGDI), fuel dilution has been cited as an issue (as with all DI motors). I haven't had any issues with fuel dilution based on one UOA after the 2022-2023 winter. Someone at the KonaForums mentioned that ester-based oils were better with fuel dilution compared to GTL+ or even PAO and others. Is this true? I think he advocated Redline.
 
That's the reason I switched back to PP, not LSPI friendly.
I’m not going to say it never happens, but I feel LSPI is as much scare tactic as reality. How many engines have we seen, heard, or experienced ourselves that failed from LSPI? Not many at all IIRC. I’d say these days the only real risk for LSPI is in TGDIs with manuals, and only if you lug them in higher gear with the pedal on the floor under 2500rpm.

The easy fix for manufacturers would be to program the wastegate to not allow full boost below 3k if engine acceleration does not exceed say 400rpm/sec. So if it’s accelerating really slow, the wastegate will be opened at least partially to limit boost until either 3k or a fast engine acceleration is achieved.
 
While I've been using PP/PUP for well over 15 years, I'm always open to others.

As I mentioned, on my Kona (1.6TGDI), fuel dilution has been cited as an issue (as with all DI motors). I haven't had any issues with fuel dilution based on one UOA after the 2022-2023 winter. Someone at the KonaForums mentioned that ester-based oils were better with fuel dilution compared to GTL+ or even PAO and others. Is this true? I think he advocated Redline.
No. Fuel dilution is a simple viscosity mixture, and no base oil fares better. Putting a very low cSt fluid into oil will always reduce viscosity; the only thing that really matters is the oil’s starting viscosity.

Low (resource conserving) viscosity oils will be out of grade faster, but at essentially the same rate. Esters don’t affect this phenomena at all.
 
No. Fuel dilution is a simple viscosity mixture, and no base oil fares better. Putting a very low cSt fluid into oil will always reduce viscosity; the only thing that really matters is the oil’s starting viscosity.

Low (resource conserving) viscosity oils will be out of grade faster, but at essentially the same rate. Esters don’t affect this phenomena at all.
Makes sense. After all, gasoline and base engine oils are all petroleum hydrocarbon mixtures.
 
The GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification is important. It sets stricter limits for the oil to not form deposits in extreme heat that cause varnish / sludge.

A low price alternative is SuperTech full synthetic oils. They already have the GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification.
They also have a strong additive package with high amounts of phosphorous and zinc anti-wear additives, and high amounts of Calcium detergent additive.
 
The GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification is important. It sets stricter limits for the oil to not form deposits in extreme heat that cause varnish / sludge.

A low price alternative is SuperTech full synthetic oils. They already have the GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification.
They also have a strong additive package with high amounts of phosphorous and zinc anti-wear additives, and high amounts of Calcium detergent additive.
I thought the newer Dexos 1 Gen 3 certification was for lower calcium levels to better fight LSPI...

Bill
 
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I stopped using Pennzoil oils after I saw about 20 different VOA's that show their anemic anti-wear and detergent additive package across all their oils. Also, their oils don't have the GM Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval, which many other oils already have.
Funny I just bought some and part of the reason was because of a video showing how good the add pack and numbers were from testing.
 
Funny I just bought some and part of the reason was because of a video showing how good the add pack and numbers were from testing.
Funnier yet is the numbers from testing give you no relevant information on how an oil will perform in an engine, yet a huge number of people buy their oil based on somebody else’s UOA, from a different engine family.

Certifications tell you what oil is proper for a given vehicle.
 
Funnier yet is the numbers from testing give you no relevant information on how an oil will perform in an engine, yet a huge number of people buy their oil based on somebody else’s UOA, from a different engine family.

Certifications tell you what oil is proper for a given vehicle.
It wasn't like that. Ford Boss me tested oils against each other to see what additives they all had and in what amounts. Try and lighten up.
Almost any modern name-brand oil is fine.
 
It wasn't like that. Ford Boss me tested oils against each other to see what additives they all had and in what amounts. Try and lighten up.
Almost any modern name-brand oil is fine.
I’m plenty light… your last statement is almost perfect- “any modern name-brand oil that carries the manufacturer’s required specs is fine.”

We agree on that. Because the certs are what says the numbers on a VOA don’t make a difference- there’s other things that matter more. 👍🏻
 
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