99 Maxima SE 207K Valv Max-Life Full Synthetic

[Tyler99]

Ok Everyone......Round II

Just received my second oil analysis. There was improvement from last change, but, Lead still appears to be high. In the last thread back in Sept, many forum members recommended the Shell Rotella T6 after I had changed my oil with new Valvoline Max-Life 5W-30 Full Synthetic. I figured I would wait for the next oil analysis and see how the Valvoline performed instead of draining new oil and replace with T6. It appears the Valvoline helped somewhat, but, not enough. Blackstone said there was a nice improvement, and there is no need to switch oil. Do you guys agree? Is it more than likely that the Lead will continue to go down with Valvoline, or, should I buy the T6, run it and see the results in another 4K miles?

Thanks

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2031289&page=1

 

[stubbakatt]

Looks like a good improvement to me. I'd use the Maxlife syn for another round and look at the trend.

 

[zloveraz]

I recommend a 5W40 for these Nissan VQ series engines, also Red Line 5W30 is a good choice as it's really a 10W40 in disguise... LOL

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: stubbakatt
Looks like a good improvement to me. I'd use the Maxlife syn for another round and look at the trend.


I agree. Try it once more with the MaxLife full synthetic. If it trends down again, to a reasonable level, stick with it or go over to T6 or another synthetic suggested if you want. I'd make it '3 times a charm' and be done with gathering the info you need.

Curious, have you swapped what kind of oil filter you have used???

 

[Tyler99]

Itslimjim.....

I used Nissan OEM filter with GC for years until 2 changes ago when I wanted to try the Bosch Extended filter for around $13. I used the Valvoline Blend Max Life with Bosch. My last change was Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic with PureOne. I will change the oil this week and on the fence whether I should go back to OEM or use the PureOne again for a paltry $5 at Advance Auto.

What do you think? OEM vs PureOne?

 

[aquariuscsm]

Definitely use at least a 40 weight..........Mobil 1 10W40,5W40,0W40. RP 0W40,10W40,etc. I`d go with Mobil 1. I feel it`s the best bang for your buck synth.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: Tyler99
Itslimjim.....

I used Nissan OEM filter with GC for years until 2 changes ago when I wanted to try the Bosch Extended filter for around $13. I used the Valvoline Blend Max Life with Bosch. My last change was Valvoline Max Life Full Synthetic with PureOne. I will change the oil this week and on the fence whether I should go back to OEM or use the PureOne again for a paltry $5 at Advance Auto.

What do you think? OEM vs PureOne?


Well, I'd imagine the PureONE matches OEM anyway(though probably better filtration) and is fairly popular on this site, though you may feel like to ask others that have the same engine what filter they prefer since they have experience with your application.

All things being equal, I say for testing purposes run the same setup for the same miles or less, and don't change your setup until after the next run. I see a lot of people recommending T6, which is a great option for your car IMO, to reduce wear as much as possible. Did you ever fix your CEL code?

At least you will have accomplished decent cleaning with MaxLife and can go to another full syn if you wanted. I don't have experience with Nissan OEM oil filters, not sure who makes them right now for your particular application, but perhaps someone else can give another .02 cents in that area?

I wonder how others feel about using an engine flush additive before you drop this oil(something reputable though), to try to get any extra dirt out, if it did indeed cause more wear from previous high silicon???

I have used Amsoil's Engine Flush product and it helped get grainy carbon deposits out of the engine for me. I'd be curious to see if doing that, along with the same setup, would help the wear metals to go down more(Iron)?

 

[ltslimjim]

Something more practical, if using a flush additive instead of amsoil, may be this product from your local Napa.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=AORLM2037_0058582450

 

[addyguy]

Both insols. and Silicon are very high for the miles on this oil change. That, combined with the high lead menas this is abrasive dirt wear.

Fix whatever is wrong with your air filter/air intake, or this engine will fail prematurely from severe bearing wear - you've been warned!

 

[Brons2]

I disagree, the silicon and insoluables are high, but not catastrophically so.

To the OP: run a thicker oil like the others suggested, is my opinion. That, and $2 will get you a cup of coffee.

 

[Tyler99]

Originally Posted By: Brons2
I disagree, the silicon and insoluables are high, but not catastrophically so.

To the OP: run a thicker oil like the others suggested, is my opinion. That, and $2 will get you a cup of coffee.


Thanks Brons2.....



I plan to add the Shell T6 today with a PureOne filter. I found this thread where it seems member MrJoshm had the same problem I have with lead. His lead gradually decreased with each oil change using mostly Rotella T with one Mobil 1 change. I still will not ignore the fact regarding what might be causing this. Maybe residual oil from last change. I stopped at the dealer yesterday to buy an air filter. I was explaining my problem to the parts guy. We popped the hood and he called over a mechanic who was walking buy. Mechanic stated without extensively looking at the car on a lift that I had a little "seepage", around gaskets and valve assy or something like that. Parts guy printed what parts were needed:

Valve Assy
Gasket Roc
Seal Oil
Gasket-Int

Parts are actually inexpensive which means I probably can get them a lot cheaper elsewhere. I will have my own mechanic look at PCV, gaskets etc etc to determine if there really is a problem. There is no leaking, just "seepage". As I understand, a if gaskets are replaced, you should do it before a new oil change.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1530681&page=3

 

[RPMster]

You need at least 1 more UOA before you can draw any conclusions based on trending, especially considering that you have seen trending in a particular direction. If you switch to a different oil now, those first 2 UOAs will be mostly a waste of time and money.

Patience is key here.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: RPMster
You need at least 1 more UOA before you can draw any conclusions based on trending, especially considering that you have seen trending in a particular direction. If you switch to a different oil now, those first 2 UOAs will be mostly a waste of time and money.

Patience is key here.


Which is why I suggested a final run with a similar setup.

If he's going over to T6, it'll still be helpful to have another UOA after running that. If trending continues, it probably was from previous condition and MaxLife was already helping to improve things, though T6 may be what is needed over the long-haul.

 

[unDummy]

The 2 UOAs look almost identical when figuring in normal UOA noise. Trend has been established. Maxlife synth is a stout oil but with your high mileage, and typical hard on oil VQ, you need a tad more viscosity.

I too am not happy with the amount of Si. Definitely go through your air filter/intake system. Make sure everything is tight. What air filter and age?

Mobil1 0w40 and CastrolSyntec 0w30 should be considered.

 

[Tyler99]

RPMster....

I understand what you are saying and from a Standard Deviation Theory standpoint, you are correct. I was also concerned that switching may affect results until I read Joshm's thread that I cut and pasted above. He had the same problem. It appears he had about 3-4 UOA with Rotella T. His lead started trending down. Just for Sh*ts and Giggles, he switched to M1 to see if that was the initial problem with lead. His UOA with M1 showed a continuation of trending downward for lead. From that point, I thin he switched back to Rotella T6 now if I am reading this correctly. As tslimjim mentioned, the Valvoilne may have started the healing process and I am about to give it a boost of antibiotics. I will do 20 UOA's if I have to in order to get this right. I am not into car payments...

Thanks

 

[RPMster]

No, the 2 UOA's do not look almost identical. The "noise" you speak of might account for +/- 5 to 10 ppm at the most, especially considering the 2nd sample was run 500 miles longer, yet the lead number still dropped 22 ppm.

I'd bet if a 3rd UOA were done with the same oil, under the same operating conditions, we'd see a continuing downward trend. Give Maxlife a chance to work it's "high mileage" magic. With that many miles, the seals in your engine could probably benefit any conditioning they can get. If this Maxima were my car I'd do another UOA in 4,000 miles and see how it looks, and if lead isn't down to 20 ppm or less in the next sample, then maybe look for alternatives. But that's just what I'd do.

 

[SLCraig]

I think RPMster is legit with his thoughts.
I'd consider the same thing. The numbers are already improving since the last sample, that clearly means that any "problem" is not getting worse.