2007 Poll - Are you using Synthetic?

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Currently using Castrol syntec blend 10w30 which will be switched to Motorcraft blend ($2.50 vs. $3.75 - seems like a no brainer}. The oil is changed every 3500 miles

Other car is using Pennzoil dino 10w30, but I have already bought some Maxlife synthetic and I'm getting some BOGO Pennzoil Platinum shortly. Using the synthetic, I'll extend the OCI to ~5000 miles.

Using synthetic probably has no advantages for me aside from peace of mind to go an extra 1500 miles (yeah - dino can easily go 5,000 too). When I can get it for $0.50 more/quart it probably doesn't have any disadvantages either.

Changing the oil less is not a reason for me. Driving 10k miles per year, I'm changing dino 3 times. Using synthetic, I'll be changing it 2 times (every 6 months regardless of mileage).
 
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But I truly think I will get just as good (if not better) results running conventional changed every 5-6k as I was getting with synthetic changed every 8-11k.





Thats how I see it now. With the Fumoto drain valve, takes me 10 minutes to change the oil. Eao filter ever 20k miles.
 
I have to use synthetic for my passat 1.8T - not just synthetic, ACEA A3/VW502, synthetic (Maxlife syn. 5w-30) to be exact. Otherwise, there is a sludging risk.

I'm still deciding for the new toyota V6. The toyota experts here seem to think conventional is fine so that will be my default. But I'm still a bit nervous as it's a new engine design without much data out yet.
 
Dropping in my 2 cents worth.

I was using Brad Penn in weights apropriate for the vehicles that I use, but decided once again to go back to my boutique synthetic ways and am currently giving Eneos 5w20 a try in our Pilot. Right now, it's an experiment to see in that darn maintenance minder can be slowed down with a synthetic as opposed to a petroleum.

It's good to be back!!!
 
API has shown 1 out of 5 API Certified oils off spec. No thanks. 5W30 Amsoil ASL at 12,000 mile 1 year oil changes with EaO filters in my 1997 Chevy Venture and 2006 Honda Civic Si. 12,000 mile Amsoil and EaOM filter changes in my BMW K1200LT. Once a year Amsoil changes in my lawnmower. Amsoil transmission fluids in all the transmissions. Free parts and labor warranty should the fluids ever fail (they wont). Everything runs better since I got rid of the dino.
 
PP 5w20 in my 04' Mazda6 V-6 with OCI 2x a year. Next i think i'll try Amsoil's 0w20 new syn. Was previously using M1 5w20, but couldn't resist 1.99 per qt. for PP.
 
I use 5W20 PP on both my 99 B3000 and 05 3.3 Grand Caravan. The 99 I change every 6000 miles with a filter change at 3000, and the 05 I change every 3000 because of warranty. When I run through the PP I got on sale I will probably change to Motorcraft semi blen on the Grand Caravan. Still thinking about dropping the aftermarket warranty on the Grand since I figure they will find a loophole to deny a claim.
 
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API has shown 1 out of 5 API Certified oils off spec. No thanks. 5W30 Amsoil ASL at 12,000 mile 1 year oil changes with EaO filters in my 1997 Chevy Venture and 2006 Honda Civic Si. 12,000 mile Amsoil and EaOM filter changes in my BMW K1200LT. Once a year Amsoil changes in my lawnmower. Amsoil transmission fluids in all the transmissions. Free parts and labor warranty should the fluids ever fail (they wont). Everything runs better since I got rid of the dino.




Tim, so none of Amsoil's oils are off spec.? Everything runs better since I got rid of the dino?
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Tim, when is the last time you have heard of an engine failure due to oil? Only time I hear of it is from the 20+ engine failures per year due to Amsoil as stated by Big Al himself.
 
Is Group III considered synth in regards to this poll? If so, using "synthetic" in on one car, PP 5w-20, the other car has PZ 5w-20 dino.
 
GF's V-6 Mariner vehicle is using Valvoline Full syn Maxlife, mostly because it was FAR last year. Using Havoline dino in the Accord. It was cheap and luckily found out it is pretty good stuff.
 
I am running Castrol StartUp 10w30. With 10-15 oz of LC20. Even with the ester content of Startup, I will say dino.

If I ever go synthetic, it will be to Redline, I like their stuff. I doubt I will ever go there though on this car. She has 185K on her, noisy lifters I need to replace, some slightly leaky front seals...

Car seems to like castrol oils the best, and it LOVES LC20! I think I will stick with this mix.
 
I use my own syn-blend. cheap on sale dino mixed with one or two quarts of synthetic.
 
Buster - I have never heard of an Amsoil oil available for sale being off-spec. If it has happened, I doubt that it would the the 20% that API has found with API Certified oil. And API only checks on about 10% of their API Certified oils a year. Hardly a glowing recommendation of API Certified oils from API. What warranty does API offer?

Yes, everything I have have put Amsoil in runs better than it did with what was in it previously. Lower temperatures, better shifting, better gas mileage are what I have noticed as well as others people have.

Yes, many engines have sludged up and been replaced for using the incorrect oil. Toyota and others have bought many new engines, had to extend engine warranties, and make new oil recommendations, as their old recommendations failed.

Amsoil has never caused an engine failure when approved for a recommendation. Please show where Al has stated "20+ engine failures per year due to Amsoil".
 
I use synth because I have such a huge stash of it. So many contradictions with the oil choices though. If I was buying cash money now, I'd just buy good dino and change it at 6000mi/4 months. As a group, we here suffer from what I see as the main conflict with oil choice- enjoying changing the oil vs enjoying having the best oil. In most cases, what "synth" oil offers is extended ocis... but what if you *like* changing oil? The "why waste money" rant is on-target.

A single person paying for oil changes in a single vehicle who does not drive a really lot of miles....why not spend a few extra bucks once or twice a year for premium oil? Now, a person who maintains several family vehicles and drives many many miles a year, maybe should be a bit more frugal and not spend $30 a fill for synth to drive only 5000-6000 miles on it. That same person might not mind changing the oil and can do it in a few minutes. So, it's a balancing act. What is appropriate for one person is not appropriate for all. For me personally, I hark back to my youth when the majority of lubing was ....skateboard bearings. Ha, true... I remember those dirty bearings and all the noise they made. Wash them out with some carb cleaner and pour in some heavy oil and man....smooth. That's how I feel when I dump motor oil after a long run. Bearings are nice and clean and fresh and pretty...again. I am a fugal person and also enjoy the change, so I fight the urge to pay for premium oil when I know dino oil is just as good, for me. otoh, I ran GC for 11k/6 months when I was paying the Audi dealer for changes. My opinions have changed back to getting the best service for the money, q oil at 6000-8000 intervals is where it's at. Yes, BitOG has influenced me a lot. (here since '02)
 
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Huh? What bunghole did you pull this from? We'll need a source for this bad boy.....not just "Al said".





It was from an Action News letter a few months ago. Maybe even a year ago. It stated that Amsoil receives 20 claims per year from engine failures due to oil. Some of them were Toyota's. Sorry don't have that issue.

Pablo and Tim both sell Amsoil. What you guy's both fail to realize is that most people use API quality oils and change them ever 5-8k miles and have ZERO related engine problems.

Tim show me UOA's where Amsoil actually looks good past 15k miles? Show me a good 35k mile UOA? Show me a good 25k mile UOA? You can't.
 
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