0w-40 observations in a 5w-30 recom'd vehicle...

[artificialist]

I didn't notice anything when replacing Castrol synthetic 10w30 with Castrol 0w40. I used black edge 10w30, gold edge 10w30, and titanium edge 10w30 before using 0w40.

I sometimes would read that turbo engines have an extra performance hit from high viscosity oil. Some have said the higher the HT/HS, the higher the turbo lag due to the journal bearings in the turbo. It didn't seem to matter in my car.

 

[Swift101]

Originally Posted By: wemay
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3380338/Castrol_Edge_0w40#Post3380338

I am not one to 'notice' differences from brand to brand etc. except for the perceived quieting effect QSGB has on my engine, but I recently (two days ago) changed my oil to the very highly certified, EDGE 0w-40. For the long weekend, and Bless those soldiers/hero's that sacrificed and sacrifice for all our nations, we drove to the Fl. Keys. Boy, I can absolutely notice a sluggishness in the drive. My gas tank was topped up with 93 octane from the same Shell I usually use, it was only two of us with beach gear we've used before. Tire pressure was checked prior to the 400 mile drive, and ambient temps was ~ 88° F. Not sure if I'd use it again if it continues to feel this way. I'll give it more time.

*Nope, no noticeable difference in MPG.


You also have to take the heat & humidity into consideration. My engine runs worse on hot humid days. No matter how hard I try I can't get any wheel spin in first gear. It's my understanding that turbo motors have a harder time making power on hot days.

http://stratifiedauto.com/blog/the-effects-of-intake-air-temperatures-on-turbocharged-vehicles/

 

[wemay]

A lot of factors may be at play, and then again, it could just be mental. I know when anyone post's differences in 'feel' it's looked at with a fish eye and that's why I thought long and hard before posting this. But after this weekend, I know something was different and the only real change made was the oil used. We'll see...

 

[yvon_la]

if yur car run worst in humid or hot days maybe oxygen sensor is about to stop running or other sensor that control such variable

 

[Wolf359]

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
if yur car run worst in humid or hot days maybe oxygen sensor is about to stop running or other sensor that control such variable


Actually cars just make less power in hot weather and more in cold weather. That's why the butt dyno isn't very accurate. They run at a fixed air/fuel ratio. Dry cold weather just has more oxygen than hot weather. Humid weather has more water molecules in the air and it's really O2 that you want, not H20.

Years ago when I worked at a gas power plant, the turbines would make about 330-340 megawatts when the temperature was down in the 20-30's, but only about 250-260 when it was up to the 90s, and they were rated for about 300 when the temperature was in the 60's.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Swift and Wolf are correct. Engines run better when the air is colder/denser.

 

[SilverC6]

Molasses....

With some Redline 10W-60, the Hyundai would take 8 minutes to get out of the driveway.

I'd go back to the 5W-30 and use a synthetic as suggested.

 

[datech]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Swift and Wolf are correct. Engines run better when the air is colder/denser.


YEs, since engines really run on the expansion of the hot gases from the explosion, the greater the difference in the intake and exhaust temp the more power and efficiency.

THis is not accounting for the extra drag cold lubricants have.

 

[Swift101]

Wemay, just out of curiosity are you driving with ECO mode on?

If so It could be amplifying the effects of the higher viscosity oil. But then again I would expect the viscosity to be lower this time around since you can't really drain all the oil out. You still had some 5W-30 in your engine when the 0W-40 was poured in.

Let us know how things turn out!

 

[DemoFly]

I noticed no difference in by 5.2L between M1 0w-40 and synpower 5w-30.

...Except oil pressure...

 

[stranger706]

I've never been able to notice much difference between the "energy conserving" grades (Xw20/Xw30 SN/GF5) in a car spec'd for them.

I did notice a huge difference when I poured in some Rotella T6 5w40...big time. Labored starting, did not want to rev at all, hwy mpg went down consistently, but it sure was nice and smooth.

I would imagine there is a similar difference between SN/GF5 and ACEA high performance European oils.

 

[LiquidSchwartz]

I have about 1K right now on PUE 5W-40 in my Altima QR. I had PU 5W-30 in previously and the changes were very, very subtle when swiching up. Honestly, I can't really tell a difference but it does feel a little smoother.

We also took about a 2 hour trip this weekend and I hooked up my ODBII/DashCommander app. With 3 adults, 1 child, carseat, gear, etc, I was getting 33.1 MPG.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Swift101
Wemay, just out of curiosity are you driving with ECO mode on?

If so It could be amplifying the effects of the higher viscosity oil. But then again I would expect the viscosity to be lower this time around since you can't really drain all the oil out. You still had some 5W-30 in your engine when the 0W-40 was poured in.

Let us know how things turn out!





Good point on the ECO mode. No, i dont use it but that is kind of the feel but more subtle . We'll see.

 

[901Memphis]

Originally Posted By: SilverC6
Molasses....

With some Redline 10W-60, the Hyundai would take 8 minutes to get out of the driveway.

I'd go back to the 5W-30 and use a synthetic as suggested.




Why not go straight for the 70 WT?

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=18


Phosphorus, avg PPM 2500
Zinc, avg PPM 2400
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 33
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 318
Viscosity Index 150
Flash Point, °C 220
Flash Point, °F 428
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6







Redline 20w60 would be more realistic though.

http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=17&pcid=1

TYPICAL PROPERTIES

Phosphorus, avg PPM 2500
Zinc, avg PPM 2400
Viscosity Grade N/A
SAE Viscosity Grade 20W60
Vis @ 100°C, cSt 22.5
Vis @ 40°C, cSt 162
Viscosity Index 167
CCS Viscosity, Poise, @ °C 30@-10°C
Pour Point, °C -40
Pour Point, °F -40
Flash Point, °C 270
Flash Point, °F 518
NOACK Evaporation Loss,1hr @ 482°F (250°C), % 6






How do you feel about these oils Caterham?

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: geeman789
Next oil change, get some 5/10w30 , some 0/5w40, and some 15/20w50, and have someone else put the oil in. Make your observations, write them down, and only then have the "filler" tell you what he/she put in...!



I like this idea. Call it the Butt Dyno Challenge.

 

[artificialist]

All cars lose HP at high temperatures, but it is a bigger problem with turbo engines. Boost pressure means that the intake air is being heated even further, it practically multiplies the effect of heat. At the same time, the intercooler is less able to dissipate heat, which also multiplies the effect. Add the need to retard spark timing when the intake air is hot is the last factor I know of that impacts turbo engines.

 

[wemay]

All,

I didnt change the oil and move to Florida from Alaska all-of-a-sudden. I have driven this vehicle on hotter days with 10w and 5w30 before this. I really doubt the outside heat is the difference.

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted By: stranger706
I've never been able to notice much difference between the "energy conserving" grades (Xw20/Xw30 SN/GF5) in a car spec'd for them.

I did notice a huge difference when I poured in some Rotella T6 5w40...big time. Labored starting, did not want to rev at all, hwy mpg went down consistently, but it sure was nice and smooth.

I would imagine there is a similar difference between SN/GF5 and ACEA high performance European oils.


Interesting.
Back around ten years ago, before I discovered this site, I discovered Rotella 5W-40 at Walmart for some ridculously low price, like maybe $13.00/gal.
I decided that if a 5W-30 was good, then a 5W-40 must be better, so I used this oil for a number of OCIs in our '97 Aerostar with Vulcan. I even had this oil in the engine for a trip to FLL, about 1100 miles from here.
Fuel economy didn't suffer a bit in use as compared to either a 5W-30 syn or the old M1 0W-30, and I couldn't really tell that what I now know to be a much higher HTHS oil was in the engine.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Fuel economy didn't suffer a bit in use as compared to either a 5W-30 syn or the old M1 0W-30, and I couldn't really tell that what I now know to be a much higher HTHS oil was in the engine.

Same here. I posted my figures quite a while ago, and the difference was well within statistical noise. Of course, there is a difference. We just can't readily discern it. From a performance perspective, I definitely cannot tell the difference.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Kuato
Subscribed. Be interested to see how this comes out, looking forward to the UOA.


Hey Kuato, at my mandated short oci, I dont think UOA's are necessary unless I notice a loss of oil or other issues.


Gotcha; yeah short interval oil is bound to be in good condition.