0w-40 observations in a 5w-30 recom'd vehicle...

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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
And I may disagree with CATERHAM on certain things and he sometimes frustrates me a bit but at the end of the day I still respect his contribution to the board. He's able to participate in these discussions without getting rude, calling people names....etc. He tends to stick with the topic for the most part and keeps things civil.

That's why I started the MIA thread when he was on vacation. All was out of balance here.
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Originally Posted By: Trav
There are a lot of really knowledgeable folks here that have forgotten more than many of us will ever know.


That is very nice of you to say that. Thank you.
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Actually, I'm right the vast majority of the time.
The person who seems incapable of realizing that most of what he posts is nonsense is you sir. You'd know that if you'd actually, you know, been around cars, used the equipment we are talking about...etc. Standard stuff like that.


Sure, you're right "vast majority of the time". Go on and believe that. You know, cars, you know those things, with that "stuff". Standard. yeah, what you said, 'cause you're always right...

You could inflate a million balloons with that inflated ego.


Fact is Overkill is telling is like it is. I am not speaking for him, he is is more than than capable of doing that for himself, i am just pointing it out.
There are a lot of really knowledgeable folks here that have forgotten more than many of us will ever know.

I learn something everyday from guys like Overkill, Shannow, CapriRacer, SteveSRT, Caterham and a bunch of others (there is not enough room to post all their names) and i am good at what i do but you never know everything.
This site will make you better if you listen a little.


Thanks Trav
cheers3.gif


And I may disagree with CATERHAM on certain things and he sometimes frustrates me a bit but at the end of the day I still respect his contribution to the board. He's able to participate in these discussions without getting rude, calling people names....etc. He tends to stick with the topic for the most part and keeps things civil.

I would also mention Doug Hillary in the above list as he's one of the guys that really opened my eyes on the OEM testing regiments and the importance of spec lubricants. He is one of many great resources on this board, your list includes many of the others.


No thanks needed Overkill but your welcome.
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Certainly Doug and Molakule and others belong on that long list.
I always argue with Caterham but that doesn't mean his contributions are not recognized. The point is no one gains anything for contributing on this site other than maybe the satisfaction of anonymously helping someone else.

For a poster like FetchFar to come on here and start that sort of carry on isn't what this board is all about and not needed by anyone, it just ruins the thread.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
....
Some guy puts TGMO in his F-body based on all the cheerleading for the product on this site and takes it to Laguna Seca and then spins a rod bearing, windows the block and he's down an engine. ...


For perspective, Mobil1 synthetic was ONLY offered in 5w-20 for the first 6 years. I never heard of stories people "spinning a rod bearing" then, and that was in an era where most people used 10w-40 or straight 30.


LOL! That was 1974, the era of smog engines that made barely enough power to get out of their own way!! A DOHC 5.0L V8 with variable cam timing making 425HP (SAE NET) was unheard of back then.

I owned a 1974 Olds Cutlass Supreme. It had a 350 "Rocket" with a big 'ol 4-barrel on it and made 200HP. And that's SAE NET "the first version", which was a lot more conservative than the SAE GROSS rating that came before it, but still less conservative than the rating system we use today.

That was the era of 140HP Camaro's and Mustangs. The era of a 460ci V8 making 212HP (1976 Lincoln Continental).

Any of the engines that WERE hopped up by 'rodders to make decent power also saw frequent rebuilds, were probably run on 20w-50 (I know quite a few "good old boys" from that era) and often DID blow up.


Right on!! My very first car was a blue w/white vinyl interior,white landau top,and matching blue Cutlass wheels Cutlass Supreme :^) I remember it having a huge "Rocket 350" decal on top of the air filter cover.
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That was such a fun car,I really do miss it like crazy :^(
 
Originally Posted By: FetchFar
You could inflate a million balloons with that inflated ego.


Might want to check out a mirror sometime.

More facts less [censored] and you'll do much better here.

And OMG I cannot believe anyone involved with cars has never heard of a tailpipe probe being used at a dyno run! You are a real piece of work, man, really wild...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8

And OMG I cannot believe anyone involved with cars has never heard of a tailpipe probe being used at a dyno run! You are a real piece of work, man, really wild...


Oh shush Steve! All Overkill and you have going for is the real world personal experience with dynos. That counts for nothing on an internet forum
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I was around for that era.....Mobil initially rated the first oil called Mobil 1 as 5/30, but revised that pretty quickly after failures in turbo cars of the day. It was then rerated and released as 5/20. Mistakes were made, adjustments followed.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
I must be numb. I started my Expedition in -30C (that's not a typo) in Quebec this past winter and aside from the power steering pump making noises that would make anybody cringe and the battery not being too keen on the endeavor it sounded and felt exactly like it always does. Oil in the pan was PU 5w-30, which would have been 4,000cP, as that's the CCS value for that oil at that temperature.

My friend, hold onto that Expedition of yours! Any vehicle that fires up at -30C and is instantly as free-reving and responsive as it is any other time/temperature is a special one indeed!
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Also, if we are citing cammed examples I had a TFS #1 in my H/C/I '87 Mustang GT. I ran it with 1.7's so it was about .530/.540 lift, but relatively mild duration (221/225) on a 112LSA. It had a decent lope to it. It sounded the exact same when it was cold or hot and whether I had 0w-20 or 5w-50 in the pan.

Do you have an H/V or H/V H/P pump in the 'vette? Something that would maybe make it "work" a bit more when cold? I was running the stock Ford pump, pan and pick-up.

You bring up good points. My Vette has a HV Melling oil pump which may have something to do with it, though it's only 18% higher displacement. Also, the car has not been tuned to run with this cam, the tune that's in the car is a tune that was written for a stock LS6 with headers/intake (which was the case with my car before the cam went in).

My cam is far from radical, which is why it runs well without having an optimized tune. It's a Lingenfelter GT11, 215/231 duration, .631/.644 lift, 118 LSA. High lift, medium duration and wide lobe separation (118 LSA is the same as the stock LS6 cam).

Those two things may make the car a little more succeptible to oil drag related idle quality. An optimized tune could likely smooth the idle out a bit. Once it's up and running, though, it runs very well and I doubt a tune would do a whole lot for light load throttle transitions.

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
My cars all idle the same with the A/C on or off, LOL! You do notice the change in idle when the compressor engages, but that's just a blip/audible thing.

Are you absolutely sure there's no change at all, or just not enough that it becomes glaringly obvious? Both my Saturns and now my Cruze all have a noticeable increase in NVH at idle with the AC on. Our BMW and Vette don't, but they are larger six and eight cylinder engines. I would bet most Cruze 1.4T owners wouldn't "notice" the difference unless you pointed it out to them.

Regarding fuel economy with and without AC, most people don't do "scientific-enough" testing to measure an accurate difference when using AC. They know it uses fuel, but their testimony as to exactly how much will rarely hold water.
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Quote:
Well that sort of ties into my earlier point about not recommending people run oil grades thinner than what is specified by the OEM unless they are WELL aware of the potential consequences, particularly when under warranty. Your 'vette is long out of warranty and never spec'd xW-20 anything. But you've embarked upon that journey knowingly, just like CATERHAM does with his projects and that's fine. It is advocating that approach for others that I have issue with. I'd never want to be the guy responsible for recommending something to somebody that falls outside the range of what the OEM specified and then they lunch their engine. I'd feel like an absolute bag of fecal matter.

I couldn't agree more.
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Few things frustrate me more than seeing people discredit the Engineering that goes into producing a modern automobile. However, after working at the OEM level in automotive for several years (unfortunately not in Powertrain!) I understand that most things in a car are an assortment of compromises to cover most possible scenarios.

I do believe that if someone takes the time to properly educate themselves to the point where they understand what they're doing (which is rarely a simple task), some (not all) of those compromises can be safely tinkered with. AND, the tinkerer needs to fully understand that they are taking on the responsibility of their actions.

Running 0W-20 in an engine where 5W-30 is spec'd definitely falls into that category. My Vette has both oil pressure and temperature gauges/readouts so I am able to monitor the effects of the changes I'm making. In my case, my oil temperatures will never get high enough on the street to warrant a concern WRT oil viscosity. I also fully understand that extended high RPM use is out of the question without a very good oil temperature regulation system in place. That is another item on my ever growing list of things to do.
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Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel
Are you absolutely sure there's no change at all, or just not enough that it becomes glaringly obvious? Both my Saturns and now my Cruze all have a noticeable increase in NVH at idle with the AC on. Our BMW and Vette don't, but they are larger six and eight cylinder engines. I would bet most Cruze 1.4T owners wouldn't "notice" the difference unless you pointed it out to them.

Just for reference, a trend I've noticed over the years, is that the fast idle business with respect to the A/C compressor activating has diminished over the years. I cannot say it's disappeared, but I'm sure modern fuel management makes it much more seamless. Back in the 1980s and early 1990s, it did tend to be quite noticeable, and I had vehicles where I'd turn on the defrost to "help out" with fast idle in the cold. With the G, I cannot detect any difference. Of course, that doesn't mean the fuel management system isn't doing something about it.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Sorry if this is in relation to my post...my use of "massive" wasn't directed at you, it was another poster who regularly uses "massive" when comparing the difference in 0W-20s, to the point of declaring a couple of 0W-20 subsets.

But please don't fall into the trap of statements that infer unless a brand product has been used personally, comment can't be made...I can't use mobil made TGMO, full stop, even in a lawnmower.


Nope, no one in particular, though one member harped on my use of that word and then it became a common appearance afterward.
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Comments are always welcome, it's a forum! Respectful comments with sound backing are never a bad thing, ever, and usually foster healthy conversation. It's the hard-headed that make things difficult. Instead of someone telling me what I'm seeing is impossible, I would rather have a discussion as to why I may see something that someone else doesn't. In my post above to OVERKILL, we may have identified a couple factors that may make my car a bit more succeptible to oil drag than others, which I (and hopefully others) find constructive.

So Mobil made TGMO isn't available down under? What does Toyota.au use?
 
Originally Posted By: Garak
Just for reference, a trend I've noticed over the years, is that the fast idle business with respect to the A/C compressor activating has diminished over the years. I cannot say it's disappeared, but I'm sure modern fuel management makes it much more seamless. Back in the 1980s and early 1990s, it did tend to be quite noticeable, and I had vehicles where I'd turn on the defrost to "help out" with fast idle in the cold. With the G, I cannot detect any difference. Of course, that doesn't mean the fuel management system isn't doing something about it.

Great point!
 
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Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel
So Mobil made TGMO isn't available down under? What does Toyota.au use?


I was told that it was Mobil TGMO, and how cost effective that it was in a number of threads, but alas, in the FAQ....when I found the TGMO that we can get in Oz...

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3065281/3

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Caterham
Case in point is the new Toyota 86GT and it's BRZ and FR-S clones. The 0W-20 grade is specified for world wide use and nothing else.


What oil are they using in OZ in the Toyota 86 GT, and its BRZ and FR-S clones?

Yes TGMO 0W-20 is the recommended oil for the GT86 in OZ and is imported specifically for that model.


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...at/fpart/16/q/1

Still want to know which one the car was made for and is brought to Oz ???
 
Originally Posted By: Caterham
Case in point is the new Toyota 86GT and it's BRZ and FR-S clones. The 0W-20 grade is specified for world wide use and nothing else.


This is incorrect. The manual only mentions the 0w-20 grade specifically, but it's a recommendation, not a requirement, and it specifically mentions that higher grade oils may be better suited to high temperatures and high loads.

Here's the exact wording from the manual:
Originally Posted By: 2013 BRZ Manual
Oil grade:
ILSAC multigrade engine oil
5.5 qt. (5.2 L, 4.6 Imp. qt.)
5.7 qt. (5.4 L, 4.8 Imp. qt.)
API classification SM or SN with the words “ENERGY CONSERVING”
or
“RESOURCE
CONSERVING”
Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20

SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for
good fuel economy and good
starting in cold weather.

Oil viscosity (0W-20 is explained here as an example):
• The 0W in 0W-20 indicates the characteristic of the oil which allows
cold startability. Oils with a lower value before the W allow for easier
starting of the engine in cold weather.
• The 20 in 0W-20 indicates the viscosity characteristic of the oil when
the oil is at high temperature. An oil with a higher viscosity (one with a
higher value) may be better suited if the vehicle is operated at high
speeds, or under extreme load conditions.


Emphasis mine.
 
Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel

My friend, hold onto that Expedition of yours! Any vehicle that fires up at -30C and is instantly as free-reving and responsive as it is any other time/temperature is a special one indeed!
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Oh, it wasn't instantly free-revving (throttle response was fine though), it felt sluggish, though I'm certain that the fact it had regular ATF in the pan (not synthetic) helped in making it feel sluggish. I can only imagine the viscosity of that fluid at -30C. And there's 17L of it there to heat up, LOL!
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It just didn't feel or sound different than it did on any other cold start, that was my point
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Driving it, yeah, you could tell there was some thick stuff in the drivetrain, but that should be expected at those temperatures. In warmer weather it feels the same hot or cold.

Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel

You bring up good points. My Vette has a HV Melling oil pump which may have something to do with it, though it's only 18% higher displacement. Also, the car has not been tuned to run with this cam, the tune that's in the car is a tune that was written for a stock LS6 with headers/intake (which was the case with my car before the cam went in).

My cam is far from radical, which is why it runs well without having an optimized tune. It's a Lingenfelter GT11, 215/231 duration, .631/.644 lift, 118 LSA. High lift, medium duration and wide lobe separation (118 LSA is the same as the stock LS6 cam).

Those two things may make the car a little more succeptible to oil drag related idle quality. An optimized tune could likely smooth the idle out a bit. Once it's up and running, though, it runs very well and I doubt a tune would do a whole lot for light load throttle transitions.


Yeah, I'd imagine if things are on the "edge" of what the ECM considers normal on a cold start, and you've added an 18% increase in oil displacement to that mix, that any little change might make an audible difference in what you hear on a cold start.

Did you do the HV pump when you did the cam? What was the logic behind the upgrade? Of course increasing oil volume is a key point here and one we shouldn't skim over. So while you are running a lighter oil than spec, you are also moving more of it (assuming we aren't on the relief), and that's important!

Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel

Are you absolutely sure there's no change at all, or just not enough that it becomes glaringly obvious? Both my Saturns and now my Cruze all have a noticeable increase in NVH at idle with the AC on. Our BMW and Vette don't, but they are larger six and eight cylinder engines. I would bet most Cruze 1.4T owners wouldn't "notice" the difference unless you pointed it out to them.


On the M5, absolutely nothing. but it is an 8 and you can't feel the engine in the car no matter what, it is incredibly well isolated. But you don't hear it kick on in that car either. Now, with respect to the 4-bangers, the Subie's 2.5L turbo-4 seems completely unphased by the cycling of the A/C
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Same with the Focus, though you could observe the RPM briefly change and hear the audible click of the compressor, which is the same as it is with the Expedition. It is FAR more seamless on the M5 and Subie than it is on the Ford's IME.

Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel
Regarding fuel economy with and without AC, most people don't do "scientific-enough" testing to measure an accurate difference when using AC. They know it uses fuel, but their testimony as to exactly how much will rarely hold water.
smile.gif



Fair point! On the Subaru, the effect on fuel economy seems imperceptibly small, though I haven't done much tracking with it yet. On the Expedition, it works out to a solid .5Mpg at highway speed (can't tell in-town, as it is so bad on gas it doesn't matter). Over the same trip, instead of averaging 17Mpg for example, I'll average around 16.5. And that's repeatable. On a vehicle that is, based on my tracking of it, capable of a maximum of 18.5Mpg on a flat road, cruise set, with no wind (LOL!), anything that detracts from that, because it uses so much gas, is noticeable.

I haven't done enough tracking on the M5, and I like driving it with the windows down so I can hear it. So I can't really make a solid comment based on its consumption with/without the A/C. Though it would SEEM that gas mileage is a bit worse with it on.

Originally Posted By: Blue_Angel

Few things frustrate me more than seeing people discredit the Engineering that goes into producing a modern automobile. However, after working at the OEM level in automotive for several years (unfortunately not in Powertrain!) I understand that most things in a car are an assortment of compromises to cover most possible scenarios.

I do believe that if someone takes the time to properly educate themselves to the point where they understand what they're doing (which is rarely a simple task), some (not all) of those compromises can be safely tinkered with. AND, the tinkerer needs to fully understand that they are taking on the responsibility of their actions.

Running 0W-20 in an engine where 5W-30 is spec'd definitely falls into that category. My Vette has both oil pressure and temperature gauges/readouts so I am able to monitor the effects of the changes I'm making. In my case, my oil temperatures will never get high enough on the street to warrant a concern WRT oil viscosity. I also fully understand that extended high RPM use is out of the question without a very good oil temperature regulation system in place. That is another item on my ever growing list of things to do.
smile.gif



BINGO!! You are aware of what you are doing, even upgraded the oil pump! You've got the necessary gauges in place....etc. You are setup to run the experiment you are doing and it would seem we are on the exact same page here
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Do you have any links or background on that? I was a fairly early adopter of M1 and I always remember it being 5W-20. Instead of the usual 10W-40, I used it in my 1974 Buick Regal with a 455 engine (not the Stage 1). I had all sorts of people telling me that engine would blow with that oil, but besides starting easy on cold days the biggest thing I noticed was it kept it quite clean under the valve covers. I then used it in my 1979 Plymouth Horizon with similar results.

What kind of adjustments were made? Just a labeling change wouldn't mean much, as I recall Mobil stating that despite the viscosity designation it could be used in pretty much any car.

From Mobil's website:

"1973
Mobil 1 synthetic engine oil launched in Europe and Japan. Initially available in only a fuel-saving SAE 5W-20 viscosity grade. Mobil 1 line expands in the next decade."

I wonder what the exact chronology was in the available viscosity?

Edit:

I did find this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Tin-Mobi...=item1e8c8a22f4

But it is not from the 1960's like he claims. SF didn't come out until 1979, so this is probably from the 1980s.

Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
I was around for that era.....Mobil initially rated the first oil called Mobil 1 as 5/30, but revised that pretty quickly after failures in turbo cars of the day. It was then rerated and released as 5/20. Mistakes were made, adjustments followed.
 
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Yeah, I'd imagine if things are on the "edge" of what the ECM considers normal on a cold start, and you've added an 18% increase in oil displacement to that mix, that any little change might make an audible difference in what you hear on a cold start.

Very true. A solid tune for the new cam surely has the potential to bolster the cold start behaviour, at which point the change in viscosity may make for less audible evidence. But I was very surprised at the difference, even a touch disapointed, since the car just didn't sound as "tough" on those morning start-ups. As much as I'm usually against "show" without "go", I must admit it sounded pretty cool before the oil change.
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Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Did you do the HV pump when you did the cam? What was the logic behind the upgrade? Of course increasing oil volume is a key point here and one we shouldn't skim over. So while you are running a lighter oil than spec, you are also moving more of it (assuming we aren't on the relief), and that's important!

Yes, the oil pump was upgraded at the same time as the cam. My cam took out a few lifters (improperly hardened lobes, an LS6 cam SQ thing apparently), and all those hardened metal shavings made an impressive mess of the stock oil pump.

I had previously planned to install a new oil pump anyway since the pressure relief valve in the OE pump had stuck open on me a few times. No way was I going to take a chance with the same pump again (I didn't yet realise my pump was full of metal shavings from the cam/lifters), and I figured my high mileage engine (~110k miles at the time) wouldn't protest a little extra oil flow.

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
BINGO!! You are aware of what you are doing, even upgraded the oil pump! You've got the necessary gauges in place....etc. You are setup to run the experiment you are doing and it would seem we are on the exact same page here
cheers3.gif


It was a while after the cam/pump upgrade, but I eventually discovered CATERHAM's blending and the more I thought about it the more it intrigued me. I figured with the gauges and an upgraded oil pump it would be a pretty safe experiment to try out, and if things started looking bad I would just go back to a 30wt.

I'm considering the same experiment with my Cruze. The 1.4T has a variable displacement oil pump which regulates pressure based on a signal it gets from the oil galley just after the main bearings, so it should pump a little more oil to compensate for the reduced viscosity (up to a point, surely).

The only thing that makes me a little nervous is the 1.4T uses an oil/water heater/cooler to regulate the oil temperature, so the car went through testing with a 30wt oil that had its temperature already regulated. Since I don't race the car and won't be putting it through anything remotely resembling the abuse it saw during development, I'm fairly certain I won't be doing any harm. Installing pressure/temperature gauges would be a good idea since the Cruze has neither.
 
It was introduce in Europe before it came to the states......I believe that it was originally 5/30 there, before they sold it in the U.S. I remember reading of some problems with it in turbo Ford motors in Europe at the time.

Same oil, however they rated it at the time. The other issue was that they had no learned that seal conditioners were required, which is the origin of the "Synthetics cause leaks!" myth.
 
It was a 5W20 in Oz, and it and Shell XMO (15W30) had a reputation for "high" oil consumption...bear in mind that Aussies think "high" is 1qt/3,000 miles.

I don't recall M1 being labelled a destroyer of engines, just that the enthusiasts who used it had high consumption, relative to their norms. Enthusiasts would buy it, and they'd check it.

Shell got hammered with 15W30 XMO, as people were wrecking engines by running out of oil (user neglect, but out of Aussie norms in terms of consumption).

Shell replaced the XMO with "XMO Hi" (stood for high viscosity, it was a 40), and Mobil moved to 15W-50 as the only grade for a decade.

Note: Holden had grief when Commodores with the 3.8 started emptying the sump between 6,000 mile services, Aussies weren't used to that. I still consider it user neglect, but Holden changed the sump and dipsticks to stop them running empty.

Note also, that the area manager for Wynns was running a perpetual OCI in a Holden 5.0L V-8 (the homegrown design) on the M1 5W-20. He'd send it to the lab, and re-additise the brew with Wynns, and keep driving it. (It was early '90s, but I'm sure that he had a toilet roll filter on it)...not sure after multiple add top ups with Wynns that it was a 5W-20 anymore.
 
Final thoughts:
My brother and his family flew in for vacation and I offered my car for their stay since my wife is out out town and I could use hers. Anyway, they drove to Disney, Bush Gardens and to the Keys etc. When I got the car back, she still 'felt' a little sluggish to my butt-dyno. I changed the oil yesterday at Firestone since the daily showers haven't allowed me to do it and I used Kendall GT1 5w30.....the sluggish warm-ups? Gone! My butt-dyno is happy again.
 
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