0W-40 Mobil 1 reviews?

[buster]

Originally Posted By: heathenbrewing
4 ball wear scar test

http://www.searchforparts.com/important_articles/amsoil_is_the_best.php

"...Wouldn't Mobil 1 be suing the AMSOIL company for everything they're worth? I believe they would. In fact, just last year they took Castrol to court regarding statements made by the Castrol company regarding the enhanced engine wear properties of Castrol oil....Interestingly enough, however, not one company is suing AMSOIL over those test results...."

Thats an interesting point. Has mobil ever sued or tried to sue amsoil? I know there are a few dealers here, and figured I might get a good answer.

Cheers!


The 4-ball wear test can give you an idea of the coefficient of friction of the oil. XOM and other lube makers do use ASTM 4172, but not for engine oils. I'm not sure why they don't use it for motor oil.

 

[Volvohead]

TD,

I tend to agree with you. That custom Z06 block is likely going to beat the 0W-40 into a mid weight 30 in no time. And I'm not sure that's what the builder had in mind. Your recommendations echo mine. Another I would throw in post break in would be RL 5w-40, which should offer enough film strength to keep the builder satisfied.

But I'm not quite sure where the OP is in the break in process. So it may not be ideal to run the G-IV and V oils too soon on a field build. That's why something like RTS may be the right pick for right now until the hone fully settles in.

The benefit of a custom plant is that he's not confined to the usual alphabet soup suspects as with a factory warrantied block, which in the end allows a wider selection of great oils to choose from.

Doug,

You seem to want to turn this thread into a general referendum on 0w-40, when it is just about whether 0w-40 is the appropriate choice for this particular situation. I guess we all have our allegiances. You can have the last word here, as I've said mine.

 

[Firehawk409]

Would it make a difference on what year this Z06 is? I think anything before 2008..maybe 07, used 6quarts. The 2008/09 Z06 has a dry sump setup that holds 8quarts. I just bring this up because someone bought up how the porsche holds 8 to 9 quarts. Making it not so harsh on the oil. Same theory for the z06??

 

[buster]

How much different will this engine set up be compared to the new ZR-1? Reason being, that car comes filled with Mobi 1 5w30. That is all you may need. A good engine won't always need the absolute best oil out there.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Adjust visc when you determine oil temps. Start with elevated-zink oils and go up from there. Might be a job for VSOT.

 

[TurboTravis]

Thanks for all the replys, guys.

Next oil change I'll probably go with Rotella 5w40, but I'm sure the 0w40 Mobil 1 that is in there now will do just fine for the time being. I honestly havent had the car above 80MPH since I bought it and the oil temps have never gotten above 220. If I was tracking the car, I'd consider switching out the oil but again this car is driven very easily. For those who asked, the motor has about 6k miles on it.

It also makes 900HP at full boost!

 

[Audi Junkie]

Well, if the oil is cool when you hammer it, no problem. Only sustained load/temp requires a thicker oil than a HD 40.

 

[TurboTravis]

I'm assuming that any 'problems' would show up as a less then desired oil pressure at higher oil temps?

 

[TurboTravis]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Well, if the oil is cool when you hammer it, no problem. Only sustained load/temp requires a thicker oil than a HD 40.


What is 'cool'? I normally 'hammer' it from 40-80 when the oil is around 180, and that gets the oil up to about 210 (plus or minus 10 degrees), and then I may or may not hammer it again with the oil at 210. I'm thinking that 210 is still fairly cool as far as oil temps go.

 

[wapacz]

The reason for the synthetic in the stock vette is that there is no oil coolers. So when the vette is run hard the oil temps will rise to a level that is above the ability of a conventional to withstand.


Now the 220 I take it is in the sump. which isn't the hottest place in the engine. So the oil at the turbos is much likely hotter. You may want to see if you can get a reading of the oil leaving the turbos. Then make sure your flash point is above that.

 

[kr_bitog]

Originally Posted By: buster


The 4-ball wear test can give you an idea of the coefficient of friction of the oil. XOM and other lube makers do use ASTM 4172, but not for engine oils. I'm not sure why they don't use it for motor oil.

I guess all oils with high dosage of EP may prone to create deposit when it is worked out hard on turbo application.

 

[Audi Junkie]

I'll defer to guys more familliar with your set-up. imo, 210f is max OT I'd feel comfortable driving hard on. If you see excess temps, go up to a heavier oil. Mobil 1 10w-40 HM should be a step-up over 5w-40s on the way to 50 weights. Just do a UOA w/ the 0w-40 and then after some 5w-40 and go from there. Pennzoil Platinum comes in 15w-50, PepBoys has it.

You could use a visc calc to get your actual visc going up from the 210 they are rated at. Don't get below 9cSt, imo.

 

[TurboTravis]

Can someone explain to me why the 0w40 may shear faster then other oils? In fact, what does 'shear' exactly mean?

 

[Audi Junkie]

This particluar oil is designed to shear, in part to maintain mpg for the specs. imo, German Syntec 0w-30 is a better oil. They both start with the same high-temp/high shear rating at +150C, but the Mobil 1 needs a heavier base oil 14+cSt@+100C to make the same HT/HS visc at +150C as GC does with a 12cSt base oil. I know that does not exactly answer your question, but is usefull info.