When the test reports rate Chinese brands tires equal to the name brands, then consider them. For now, it is not the place to economize. After having had an accident due to MIchelin tires which claimed to be good on snow (and were not), and Firestone tires which blew out at highway speeds in the 721 days, I stopped economizing in that area. Keep your phone for another year instead.
Linglong Crosswind M/T
- Thread starter camoweasel
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by supton
Yep, had three sets of Michelin, none performed to my satisfaction--two sets wore out in 30k, third suffered dry rot after a couple years & about 40k. Three strikes and you're out. Good traction in wet but ultimately short lifespan for the cost. Ultimately I find it easier to slow down in the rain and pocket the savings--I too have been driving for 25 years (almost 600,000 miles) and never had a problem across many sets of tires.
Anything above that is not a tire, it is plastic.
That is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site.
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Yet again: that is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site. It's nonsense on the level of "boomerang zinger hurricane raccoon laptop asphalt Andromeda horcrux".
Originally Posted by Jarlaxle
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by supton
Yep, had three sets of Michelin, none performed to my satisfaction--two sets wore out in 30k, third suffered dry rot after a couple years & about 40k. Three strikes and you're out. Good traction in wet but ultimately short lifespan for the cost. Ultimately I find it easier to slow down in the rain and pocket the savings--I too have been driving for 25 years (almost 600,000 miles) and never had a problem across many sets of tires.
Anything above that is not a tire, it is plastic.
That is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site.
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Yet again: that is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site. It's nonsense on the level of "boomerang zinger hurricane raccoon laptop asphalt Andromeda horcrux".
So, no one here has actually tried them?
Originally Posted by NO2
When the test reports rate Chinese brands tires equal to the name brands, then consider them. For now, it is not the place to economize. After having had an accident due to MIchelin tires which claimed to be good on snow (and were not), and Firestone tires which blew out at highway speeds in the 721 days, I stopped economizing in that area. Keep your phone for another year instead.
Well if you had that much bad luck with Michelin and Firestone, maybe the Linglong will bring good luck!
When the test reports rate Chinese brands tires equal to the name brands, then consider them. For now, it is not the place to economize. After having had an accident due to MIchelin tires which claimed to be good on snow (and were not), and Firestone tires which blew out at highway speeds in the 721 days, I stopped economizing in that area. Keep your phone for another year instead.
Well if you had that much bad luck with Michelin and Firestone, maybe the Linglong will bring good luck!
Quote
[size:20pt][/size]Yet again: that is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site. It's nonsense on the level of "boomerang zinger hurricane raccoon laptop asphalt Andromeda horcrux".
Sure it is. Guy who drives Crown Vic and Cadillac is telling us what is ludicrous and what is not.
[size:20pt][/size]Yet again: that is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site. It's nonsense on the level of "boomerang zinger hurricane raccoon laptop asphalt Andromeda horcrux".
Sure it is. Guy who drives Crown Vic and Cadillac is telling us what is ludicrous and what is not.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by camoweasel
Has anyone had any experiences with Linglong Crosswind M/T tires as far as tread life or road noise?
http://www.linglongtire.com/light-truck-tires/m-t
No. If you need a cheap tire, buy some Mastercrafts, they're made by Cooper and ok quality.
Has anyone had any experiences with Linglong Crosswind M/T tires as far as tread life or road noise?
http://www.linglongtire.com/light-truck-tires/m-t
No. If you need a cheap tire, buy some Mastercrafts, they're made by Cooper and ok quality.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
I agree with all this.
Scott
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
I agree with all this.
Scott
I recently removed a set of JOY-ROAD tires from a car purchased used from a local dealer. Dealer replaced the worn tires with THE CHEAPEST replacements he could find, then advertised the car as having NEW tires ... yeaaah !
Sorry, but no thank you ... not gonna cheap out on tires for the kid car, or any car for that matter.
Sorry, but no thank you ... not gonna cheap out on tires for the kid car, or any car for that matter.
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
It would seem that some guys would know that the amount of money you quoted is substantial money for some. Especially those guys that drive all over town to buy a quart of oil on clearance for .25 cents.
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
It would seem that some guys would know that the amount of money you quoted is substantial money for some. Especially those guys that drive all over town to buy a quart of oil on clearance for .25 cents.
Originally Posted by CKN
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
It would seem that some guys would know that the amount of money you quoted is substantial money for some. Especially those guys that drive all over town to buy a quart of oil on clearance for .25 cents.
That is B S. By the time they drive all over town, they will use much more gas than what they will save buying cheaper oil.
I get your point, but a lot of people drive super large vehicles in this country, when their budget cannot support maintenance of those vehicles.
Yes, there are a lot of tires that are good, not top tier, but good, reliable tires. But in the end of the day, we are talking about head on the shoulders. There are numerous ways to save money, and if $100 for tires is an issue, then maybe type of the vehicle is an issue.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
It would seem that some guys would know that the amount of money you quoted is substantial money for some. Especially those guys that drive all over town to buy a quart of oil on clearance for .25 cents.
That is B S. By the time they drive all over town, they will use much more gas than what they will save buying cheaper oil.
I get your point, but a lot of people drive super large vehicles in this country, when their budget cannot support maintenance of those vehicles.
Yes, there are a lot of tires that are good, not top tier, but good, reliable tires. But in the end of the day, we are talking about head on the shoulders. There are numerous ways to save money, and if $100 for tires is an issue, then maybe type of the vehicle is an issue.
Originally Posted by edyvw
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
One incident and everyone must follow your example.
I might as well ask why you drive a minivan--surely most sports cars can decelerate much better than a minivan.
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
One incident and everyone must follow your example.
I might as well ask why you drive a minivan--surely most sports cars can decelerate much better than a minivan.
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
One incident and everyone must follow your example.
I might as well ask why you drive a minivan--surely most sports cars can decelerate much better than a minivan.
I am giving you an example.
When discussion about winter tires here or somewhere else starts, common "advice" is: well, if it is bad, stay home.
Case as example: Last December snow storm out, 3am, my kid is running 104.5 fever and coughing like crazy.
Start Tiguan, got him in urgent care in 5min through some 8 inches of powder, no sweat.
Yes, sports car will stop before minivan, but I need space. That does not mean I will run Linglong on minivan just bcs it is minivan. I will do everything to make sure minivan has best shoes and brakes (though it did need some work on brakes, but I did it). In the end of the day, my kid (soon kids) are driving in it every day, and there is no way I would ever put such garbage as Linglong.
Originally Posted by edyvw
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
One incident and everyone must follow your example.
I might as well ask why you drive a minivan--surely most sports cars can decelerate much better than a minivan.
I am giving you an example.
When discussion about winter tires here or somewhere else starts, common "advice" is: well, if it is bad, stay home.
Case as example: Last December snow storm out, 3am, my kid is running 104.5 fever and coughing like crazy.
Start Tiguan, got him in urgent care in 5min through some 8 inches of powder, no sweat.
Yes, sports car will stop before minivan, but I need space. That does not mean I will run Linglong on minivan just bcs it is minivan. I will do everything to make sure minivan has best shoes and brakes (though it did need some work on brakes, but I did it). In the end of the day, my kid (soon kids) are driving in it every day, and there is no way I would ever put such garbage as Linglong.
Originally Posted by edyvw
Quote
Yet again: that is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site. It's nonsense on the level of "boomerang zinger hurricane raccoon laptop asphalt Andromeda horcrux".
Sure it is. Guy who drives Crown Vic and Cadillac is telling us what is ludicrous and what is not.
Are you attempting to stumble upon a POINT?
Quote
Yet again: that is one of the most ludicrous statements ever made on this site. It's nonsense on the level of "boomerang zinger hurricane raccoon laptop asphalt Andromeda horcrux".
Sure it is. Guy who drives Crown Vic and Cadillac is telling us what is ludicrous and what is not.
Are you attempting to stumble upon a POINT?
Originally Posted by edyvw
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
Try R-compound autocross tires and change them every week.
Originally Posted by supton
Originally Posted by edyvw
Long lifespan of tire comes at expense of performance.
When I drive tire for specific time of the year, I want maximum performance of that tire in conditions they should perform in. I put braking, wet braking and handling, etc. before lifespan.
There are other ways to save money, and tires are not smart way to save money.
In the end of the day, no test showed that Linglong is anywhere close to any major brand or even third tier tire brands. So, one will save money at expense of safety?
Sure. But in nearly 600k of driving (nearly a million if I toss in the wife's driving) I can only think of one case where wrong tires being used caused me a problem. Other than trying to use all seasons on slush I've not had problems with braking, wet braking handling, etc. The tires I buy ARE at the required level of performance for my driving.
Not all of us are attempting to pull a G accelerating, cornering or braking on a regular basis. Yeah I'd love to! but I economize with economy vehicles, and as a result, I don't need high zoot tires.
Say what you will, but RT43's cost half as much and last a bit longer, and again, never gave me issues in braking or cornering. YMMV, apparently. I run snows on two of my three vehicles, for those I don't know how the compare to Michelin, as I never do a/b tests with those (I did like my Hakka snows).
So, your driving does not consists of driving 60mph, or 80mph? Just between 20-30mph?
I do not think that $100 or $300 for that matter is worth of 20-30ft of braking distance, especially in wet. And I am talking about regular speeds. Do not think I am talking about here driving 120mph.
Some 15 years ago, a kid on the bike showed out of nowhere while I was driving around 50mph in the zone where speed limit was 60mph. I had Hankook H720 on the car. I slammed on the brakes and tires just gave up, like on ice ring, except it was some 80 degrees outside, dry. I managed to navigate care to hit the kid in rear tire, sending him on pile of sand, and pretty much kid had only bruises. It was ugly situation, as when I slammed on the brakes, tires started to make this noise that I never heard from high quality tires. That scared off kid, plus my horn, so in panic kid started to move back and forth on the bik, not knowing where to go.
Anyway, everything ended up good. BUT, never again mediocre tire. And it did not happen at 120mph or while pulling maximum G on the car. I figured that any reputable tire would stop in time that I had before those Hankook's or after. Accidents do not happen at 120mph, or rarely do. They happen at your neighborhood school zone, or neighborhood intersection.
When I hit that kid, I would pay ANY amount just for tires that would stop me few feet earlier.
So, find me a tire that will stop 2ft before current ones on my car at 60mph? I am a customer.
Try R-compound autocross tires and change them every week.
Edvw what advice would you have for all the truck and suv owners?
Must we all buy BMW and Mercedes since they brake better?
surely a 2 seater sports car would brake and handle faster for the 95% of the time they dont need a truck.
I see your arguments, and could agree with some but there is a "level" of performance which when met is "good enough".
Otherwise you might as well buy tires every 12 months since new is better than half worn?
Also different climates call for different tires, I'm not about to put summer tires on a jeep cherokee trailhawk in Ohio.
It gets below freezing 5-6 months out of the year here.
I do run winter tires for the worst of winter, 3-4 months mainly for ice. Which is much different from your conditions.
Must we all buy BMW and Mercedes since they brake better?
surely a 2 seater sports car would brake and handle faster for the 95% of the time they dont need a truck.
I see your arguments, and could agree with some but there is a "level" of performance which when met is "good enough".
Otherwise you might as well buy tires every 12 months since new is better than half worn?
Also different climates call for different tires, I'm not about to put summer tires on a jeep cherokee trailhawk in Ohio.
It gets below freezing 5-6 months out of the year here.
I do run winter tires for the worst of winter, 3-4 months mainly for ice. Which is much different from your conditions.
Wet braking is where you will regret bad tires. 12 inches or less of a difference in stopping distance can still mean disaster or at the very least an insurance claim. My standard procedure for research, Go to Tire Rack, pick some tires from tests. Then read reviews and click "read all reviews" and then click "lowest consumer rated". Weed out and ignore the ones where people are angry about tires not lasting for 100,00 miles. Then make sure review is not for another tire(several Bridgestone tires have the Potenza moniker, from OE Subaru to high performance summer only models). See if there are patterns emerging in the reviews, squealing etc. See what negatives you can live with. Try to make an informed decision from there.
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Originally Posted by camoweasel
Chances are for what I use my truck for, I will likely just look for some great all terrains. So far, the 2 that have caught my eye are:
1)Hankook Dynapro A/T
2)Falken wildpeak AT3Ws
Does anyone have any opinions which one is better? Looking at the spec sheet, the hankooks seem very light compared to the others. Any imput?
I bought a set of the Hankooks for the Chevy and while they weren't bad, they weren't good either. Kind of a "you get what you pay for" situation. Seemed like the rubber got harder and harder with time. I had B.F. Goodrich A/T before which were great but cost more and I didn't want a E load rated tire. Have not tried the Falkens but am curious as I need new tires too.
Chances are for what I use my truck for, I will likely just look for some great all terrains. So far, the 2 that have caught my eye are:
1)Hankook Dynapro A/T
2)Falken wildpeak AT3Ws
Does anyone have any opinions which one is better? Looking at the spec sheet, the hankooks seem very light compared to the others. Any imput?
I bought a set of the Hankooks for the Chevy and while they weren't bad, they weren't good either. Kind of a "you get what you pay for" situation. Seemed like the rubber got harder and harder with time. I had B.F. Goodrich A/T before which were great but cost more and I didn't want a E load rated tire. Have not tried the Falkens but am curious as I need new tires too.
Originally Posted by HangFire
So, no one here has actually tried them?
We don't have to. We know all that is worthy knowing.
My self, I drive on generic hot-caps. They have walnut size blisters on the sidewalls. Some day I may try Bandag.
So, no one here has actually tried them?
We don't have to. We know all that is worthy knowing.
My self, I drive on generic hot-caps. They have walnut size blisters on the sidewalls. Some day I may try Bandag.
- Status
