2017 mazda cx-5 first change
- Thread starter spasm3
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My friend and I had those metallic looking particles on our rebuilt engines too (90's mazda v6 engines). Can't see it being loose machining particles. Our engines were already used engines. We just re-ringed them, had valve stem seals done, whole blocks chemically washed, new gaskets all round etc. Gave the bore a little light honing but there was nothing coming off it metal wise.
I think it's normal piston ring wear as the pistons seat during first xxx amount of kms. I might be totally wrong.
Why doens't it show on UOA? UOA catches only 10 microns or smaller I believe. Some oil filters only catch 20-40 microns and larger. So you have a range there of 10-40 microns that a UOA won't see and a filter may potentially not catch.
I think it's normal piston ring wear as the pistons seat during first xxx amount of kms. I might be totally wrong.
Why doens't it show on UOA? UOA catches only 10 microns or smaller I believe. Some oil filters only catch 20-40 microns and larger. So you have a range there of 10-40 microns that a UOA won't see and a filter may potentially not catch.
Changed oil again today at the 1800 mile mark. I did not see any metal. Put in mobil 1 0w20 with 1 quart of 0w40. Will probably let this go 5k now.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Are you still running the Fram Ultra filter?
Yes , probably overkill but i changed it as well. No issues or noises with it on startup. Its a really small filter. XG6607
Are you still running the Fram Ultra filter?
Yes , probably overkill but i changed it as well. No issues or noises with it on startup. Its a really small filter. XG6607
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Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Are you still running the Fram Ultra filter?
Yes , probably overkill but i changed it as well. No issues or noises with it on startup. Its a really small filter. XG6607
Good to know. Yes they are small. We are getting a couple of warmer days here. I might change mine out. It has around 1300 miles on it. It’s been a great car so far.
Originally Posted By: PimTac
Are you still running the Fram Ultra filter?
Yes , probably overkill but i changed it as well. No issues or noises with it on startup. Its a really small filter. XG6607
Good to know. Yes they are small. We are getting a couple of warmer days here. I might change mine out. It has around 1300 miles on it. It’s been a great car so far.
Left my FF in my Grand Cherokee till almost 1400 miles. It was a struggle. I really wanted to do it sooner. But I can't believe that was too late to avoid any damage from the small metal bits. I'm convinced the Mopar filter is the same as Pure 1. So it should have filtered out most of the particles that may have been circulating.
On any new vehicle I would change FF at 3K miles, with a drain and refill. Keep the OEM filter on for 10K miles.
Not a bad plan, Mr Nice! How often do you change it afterwards?
At 10K, new oil filter and oil.
Originally Posted By: Mr Nice
At 10K, new oil filter and oil.
I might do that on a MPFI engine that was not short tripped with 30wt oil. But a DI engine running on 0w20? no way i'm going past 5k. As soon as the mazda warranty is over (5 yr 60k) i will go with 0w30 mobile afe. If the engine is fine at say 30k, i may even forget the warranty and switch to 0w30 afe.
I'm spiking the 0w20 with a quart of 0w40 for a bit more viscosity. Using the Widman calculator, i should end up about 9.57cst. A bit more than the 8.7 of 0w20.
2 quarts of 0w40 would give me 10.55 cst, which would be a 30wt range.
That way i have a receipt for 0w20 for each oil change.
At 10K, new oil filter and oil.
I might do that on a MPFI engine that was not short tripped with 30wt oil. But a DI engine running on 0w20? no way i'm going past 5k. As soon as the mazda warranty is over (5 yr 60k) i will go with 0w30 mobile afe. If the engine is fine at say 30k, i may even forget the warranty and switch to 0w30 afe.
I'm spiking the 0w20 with a quart of 0w40 for a bit more viscosity. Using the Widman calculator, i should end up about 9.57cst. A bit more than the 8.7 of 0w20.
2 quarts of 0w40 would give me 10.55 cst, which would be a 30wt range.
That way i have a receipt for 0w20 for each oil change.
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Originally Posted By: spasm3
This weekend, i will dump the factory fill at about 400 miles.
This is my first DI engine (2.5 Skyactiv g). Looks like i will have no choice but to run 0w20 for warranty purposes.
My oil choices are
Mobil 1 0w 20
Mazda idemitsu 0w20 with moly
QSUD 0w20
Castrol 0w 20s Magnatec or edge
I assume that a low noack is desirable.
I have 2 choices for interval. Fixed schedule 1 or 2 ( 5k or 7.5k) or by the olm
I will probably do fixed schedule 1 ( 5k changes).
Thoughts on oil choice? I know tig1 has good results with mobil 1.
I got some SN IDEMITSU 0w-20 without the moly on deck so I would certainly recommend the Idemitsu with moly, 0w-20 ofcourse! QSUD second and then the Mobil 1, oh contriar monsier!! What a time to be alive when the Castrol Magnatec 0w-20 is in last place!!
This weekend, i will dump the factory fill at about 400 miles.
This is my first DI engine (2.5 Skyactiv g). Looks like i will have no choice but to run 0w20 for warranty purposes.
My oil choices are
Mobil 1 0w 20
Mazda idemitsu 0w20 with moly
QSUD 0w20
Castrol 0w 20s Magnatec or edge
I assume that a low noack is desirable.
I have 2 choices for interval. Fixed schedule 1 or 2 ( 5k or 7.5k) or by the olm
I will probably do fixed schedule 1 ( 5k changes).
Thoughts on oil choice? I know tig1 has good results with mobil 1.
I got some SN IDEMITSU 0w-20 without the moly on deck so I would certainly recommend the Idemitsu with moly, 0w-20 ofcourse! QSUD second and then the Mobil 1, oh contriar monsier!! What a time to be alive when the Castrol Magnatec 0w-20 is in last place!!
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Originally Posted By: HondaBroMike
I got some SN IDEMITSU 0w-20 without the moly on deck so I would certainly recommend the Idemitsu with moly, 0w-20 ofcourse! QSUD second and then the Mobil 1, oh contriar monsier!! What a time to be alive when the Castrol Magnatec 0w-20 is in last place!!
No real order to the oils i listed, I'm sure Castrol Magnatec would be fine as well. I just picked one and went with mobil 1, as my walmart always has mobil 0w20 and 0w40. Nothing wrong with any of them, i just selected the one that had both grades in stock for mixing.
I got some SN IDEMITSU 0w-20 without the moly on deck so I would certainly recommend the Idemitsu with moly, 0w-20 ofcourse! QSUD second and then the Mobil 1, oh contriar monsier!! What a time to be alive when the Castrol Magnatec 0w-20 is in last place!!
No real order to the oils i listed, I'm sure Castrol Magnatec would be fine as well. I just picked one and went with mobil 1, as my walmart always has mobil 0w20 and 0w40. Nothing wrong with any of them, i just selected the one that had both grades in stock for mixing.
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Patman
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Originally Posted By: Artem
I've been doing early changes on the past 4 new vehicles I bought. Oldest is a 98 Camry V6 sludge motor with now 300k on the clock. Runs like a Swiss army watch.
It makes sense logically to flush out the break-in metals and get the engine settled as quickly as possible. Why drag it out by running say, 50ppm of iron for example for 5,000 miles, followed by an oil change and then 20ppm of iron for another 5k miles, followed by an oil change and then 10ppm of iron, followed by yet another oil change to finally settle in the single digit 5ppm after 15,000 miles+ when I can achieve those results by flushing it out early and have a clean block from 5k miles until she rusts away...?
If the engine naturally produces say, 5ppm of iron every 5k miles, why would I want 30ppm of break-in metallic paste floating around? Doesn't make sense to me.
I agree, as I just did the first oil change on my Corvette at 1100 miles and the UOA already showed 48ppm of iron and 124ppm of silicon. Why would I want that stuff to keep floating around in there and accumulating even more? Plus I already had 2% fuel dilution (probably a combination of the DI with a lot of idling time as the car got moved around the factory and on and off transport trucks, etc.) The factory fill M1 5w30 had already thinned out to 5w20. Considering the fact that GM is now recommending 0w40 for this engine (and factory filling the 2019s with it) I don't think it's wise to have such a thin oil in there.
I also think that I won't go too far on the second oil change, maybe 3000 miles at the most. I just want to be sure that fuel dilution is not going to be an issue before I start blindly trusting the OLM.
In fact, I have sort of changed my tune recently, I was doing 10k intervals with my Civic and even further with my wife's car, but I really don't think I was doing those engines any favors with such long intervals. I'm not advocating 3k intervals by any means, but I'm now thinking that my comfort zone is closer to 6k.
I've been doing early changes on the past 4 new vehicles I bought. Oldest is a 98 Camry V6 sludge motor with now 300k on the clock. Runs like a Swiss army watch.
It makes sense logically to flush out the break-in metals and get the engine settled as quickly as possible. Why drag it out by running say, 50ppm of iron for example for 5,000 miles, followed by an oil change and then 20ppm of iron for another 5k miles, followed by an oil change and then 10ppm of iron, followed by yet another oil change to finally settle in the single digit 5ppm after 15,000 miles+ when I can achieve those results by flushing it out early and have a clean block from 5k miles until she rusts away...?
If the engine naturally produces say, 5ppm of iron every 5k miles, why would I want 30ppm of break-in metallic paste floating around? Doesn't make sense to me.
I agree, as I just did the first oil change on my Corvette at 1100 miles and the UOA already showed 48ppm of iron and 124ppm of silicon. Why would I want that stuff to keep floating around in there and accumulating even more? Plus I already had 2% fuel dilution (probably a combination of the DI with a lot of idling time as the car got moved around the factory and on and off transport trucks, etc.) The factory fill M1 5w30 had already thinned out to 5w20. Considering the fact that GM is now recommending 0w40 for this engine (and factory filling the 2019s with it) I don't think it's wise to have such a thin oil in there.
I also think that I won't go too far on the second oil change, maybe 3000 miles at the most. I just want to be sure that fuel dilution is not going to be an issue before I start blindly trusting the OLM.
In fact, I have sort of changed my tune recently, I was doing 10k intervals with my Civic and even further with my wife's car, but I really don't think I was doing those engines any favors with such long intervals. I'm not advocating 3k intervals by any means, but I'm now thinking that my comfort zone is closer to 6k.
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