2017 mazda cx-5 first change
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Originally Posted By: RamFan
I choose to go by the OLM, however, it is insanely optimistic. I always end up changing while I'm still at 50-60%. Below you'll see my most recent UOA. As far as what oil to run, any 0w20 will treat you well when changed at an appropriate interval.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4603429/1
That uoa is why I'm nervous about 0w20 in a DI engine. Fuel dilution!! CST at 5.5!! My wife's daily trips are borderline at getting the oil to temp. Since we don't know the efficiency of the factory filter, I'd like to get a fram ultra on there early in the break-in.
I think i will change it with the mazda oil with moly, and make sure we get some longer drives in each week during the next 1000 miles or so.
After that i think I'm going to run mobil 1 0w 20 , so i have a receipt for warranty records. I will probably spike it with a quart or so of mobil 1 0w 40. That should get it into the 9.1 to 9.3 cst range when hot.
We all have to obsess over something.
I choose to go by the OLM, however, it is insanely optimistic. I always end up changing while I'm still at 50-60%. Below you'll see my most recent UOA. As far as what oil to run, any 0w20 will treat you well when changed at an appropriate interval.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4603429/1
That uoa is why I'm nervous about 0w20 in a DI engine. Fuel dilution!! CST at 5.5!! My wife's daily trips are borderline at getting the oil to temp. Since we don't know the efficiency of the factory filter, I'd like to get a fram ultra on there early in the break-in.
I think i will change it with the mazda oil with moly, and make sure we get some longer drives in each week during the next 1000 miles or so.
After that i think I'm going to run mobil 1 0w 20 , so i have a receipt for warranty records. I will probably spike it with a quart or so of mobil 1 0w 40. That should get it into the 9.1 to 9.3 cst range when hot.
We all have to obsess over something.
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Originally Posted By: EddieCairns
Has anyone any actual statistics to prove or disprove the reason for doing low mileage first flushes.
For instance I have a 100,000 mile Mazda MX5 Miata and it's oil was changed every 9,000 miles according to the service record and is showing no signs of engine wear.
As an engineer I'm looking for some statistics to show if the low mileage changes actually make a difference.
The usual "well it is cheap insurance" remark seems strange to me as if you do say 20 extra oil changes over say 100,000 miles and that costs say and extra $600 £400 and the guy across the road also only does a 10,000 mile change and his car is still going strong at 100,000 miles!
That's the million dollar question.
I say, some engines are more susceptible to degradation from extended OCIs vs others.
The difference would be well past 100k miles. Probably 200k and 10-15 years down the road where the car with extra cheap insurance oil changes would simply run better, make more power and produce less emissions outta the tailpipe.
All that is assuming the car without the extra oil changes was harsh on the oil all its life.
Has anyone any actual statistics to prove or disprove the reason for doing low mileage first flushes.
For instance I have a 100,000 mile Mazda MX5 Miata and it's oil was changed every 9,000 miles according to the service record and is showing no signs of engine wear.
As an engineer I'm looking for some statistics to show if the low mileage changes actually make a difference.
The usual "well it is cheap insurance" remark seems strange to me as if you do say 20 extra oil changes over say 100,000 miles and that costs say and extra $600 £400 and the guy across the road also only does a 10,000 mile change and his car is still going strong at 100,000 miles!
That's the million dollar question.
I say, some engines are more susceptible to degradation from extended OCIs vs others.
The difference would be well past 100k miles. Probably 200k and 10-15 years down the road where the car with extra cheap insurance oil changes would simply run better, make more power and produce less emissions outta the tailpipe.
All that is assuming the car without the extra oil changes was harsh on the oil all its life.
In my 07 tundra I changed at 1k, then 5k. In the 13 rav4, went 10k on factory fill. Never did it before, but sure it is fine.
I am positive the engine will still go 200k without issue, and that is about all I need from it.
I am positive the engine will still go 200k without issue, and that is about all I need from it.
My son's Mazda dealer uses Castrol syn in his 2016 CX-5...
Maybe spasm3 was trolling us because I didn't think anyone fell for the old idea of changing FF at 500 miles any more. Ed
Originally Posted By: Eddie
Maybe spasm3 was trolling us because I didn't think anyone fell for the old idea of changing FF at 500 miles any more. Ed
No trolling. I changed the oil in my sons 2017 elantra at 250 miles. I like early changes.
My 13 elantra was changed at 500miles and 1000 miles, then 7500 mile runs on 5w 30. Its not a DI engine
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4466633/3
Maybe spasm3 was trolling us because I didn't think anyone fell for the old idea of changing FF at 500 miles any more. Ed
No trolling. I changed the oil in my sons 2017 elantra at 250 miles. I like early changes.
My 13 elantra was changed at 500miles and 1000 miles, then 7500 mile runs on 5w 30. Its not a DI engine
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4466633/3
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Originally Posted By: Eddie
Maybe spasm3 was trolling us because I didn't think anyone fell for the old idea of changing FF at 500 miles any more. Ed
I've been doing early changes on the past 4 new vehicles I bought. Oldest is a 98 Camry V6 sludge motor with now 300k on the clock. Runs like a Swiss army watch.
It makes sense logically to flush out the break-in metals and get the engine settled as quickly as possible. Why drag it out by running say, 50ppm of iron for example for 5,000 miles, followed by an oil change and then 20ppm of iron for another 5k miles, followed by an oil change and then 10ppm of iron, followed by yet another oil change to finally settle in the single digit 5ppm after 15,000 miles+ when I can achieve those results by flushing it out early and have a clean block from 5k miles until she rusts away...?
If the engine naturally produces say, 5ppm of iron every 5k miles, why would I want 30ppm of break-in metallic paste floating around? Doesn't make sense to me.
Maybe spasm3 was trolling us because I didn't think anyone fell for the old idea of changing FF at 500 miles any more. Ed
I've been doing early changes on the past 4 new vehicles I bought. Oldest is a 98 Camry V6 sludge motor with now 300k on the clock. Runs like a Swiss army watch.
It makes sense logically to flush out the break-in metals and get the engine settled as quickly as possible. Why drag it out by running say, 50ppm of iron for example for 5,000 miles, followed by an oil change and then 20ppm of iron for another 5k miles, followed by an oil change and then 10ppm of iron, followed by yet another oil change to finally settle in the single digit 5ppm after 15,000 miles+ when I can achieve those results by flushing it out early and have a clean block from 5k miles until she rusts away...?
If the engine naturally produces say, 5ppm of iron every 5k miles, why would I want 30ppm of break-in metallic paste floating around? Doesn't make sense to me.
I think changing it at the end of the break-in period specified in the OM is the way to go. Does it really make a difference? No idea, but it makes me feel better
Just got a new Grand Cherokee with the 3.6L yesterday and was wondering when I should do the first oil change. 1000? 2000? Glad I caught up with this discussion. Not sure how clean the engine assembly is in Mexico. Will probably change it when I start loosing sleep!
Originally Posted By: StevieBoy
Just got a new Grand Cherokee with the 3.6L yesterday and was wondering when I should do the first oil change. 1000? 2000? Glad I caught up with this discussion. Not sure how clean the engine assembly is in Mexico. Will probably change it when I start loosing sleep!
I imagine the assembly plant is not an issue. I change early to get out the initial break-in metals.
If someone posted a uoa on a 50-60 mile vehicle with greatly elevated iron and copper, how many would tell him to run it another 5k? so why do it in a new engine.
Just got a new Grand Cherokee with the 3.6L yesterday and was wondering when I should do the first oil change. 1000? 2000? Glad I caught up with this discussion. Not sure how clean the engine assembly is in Mexico. Will probably change it when I start loosing sleep!
I imagine the assembly plant is not an issue. I change early to get out the initial break-in metals.
If someone posted a uoa on a 50-60 mile vehicle with greatly elevated iron and copper, how many would tell him to run it another 5k? so why do it in a new engine.
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: StevieBoy
Just got a new Grand Cherokee with the 3.6L yesterday and was wondering when I should do the first oil change. 1000? 2000? Glad I caught up with this discussion. Not sure how clean the engine assembly is in Mexico. Will probably change it when I start loosing sleep!
I imagine the assembly plant is not an issue. I change early to get out the initial break-in metals.
If someone posted a uoa on a 50-60 mile vehicle with greatly elevated iron and copper, how many would tell him to run it another 5k? so why do it in a new engine.
That should have read 50-60K miles
Originally Posted By: StevieBoy
Just got a new Grand Cherokee with the 3.6L yesterday and was wondering when I should do the first oil change. 1000? 2000? Glad I caught up with this discussion. Not sure how clean the engine assembly is in Mexico. Will probably change it when I start loosing sleep!
I imagine the assembly plant is not an issue. I change early to get out the initial break-in metals.
If someone posted a uoa on a 50-60 mile vehicle with greatly elevated iron and copper, how many would tell him to run it another 5k? so why do it in a new engine.
That should have read 50-60K miles
I agree and that is why I dump the FF around 1000 miles. I’ve seen several FF dumps to see a little bit of fines in the oil. Just gently swirling a magnetic screwdriver around shows results. Again, it’s a personal preference and something I inherited from my father.
Changed it today, filter is small. Installed a fram ultra 6607 filter and used the mazda moly 0w20 oil. There was metal in the pan after the drain.
The filter is really small.
This was a new drain pan, first use.
Absolutely glad i changed it.
Mileage was at 385 miles.
The filter is really small.
This was a new drain pan, first use.
Absolutely glad i changed it.
Mileage was at 385 miles.
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Originally Posted By: PimTac
Did you try a magnet on those fines? I wonder if it’s aluminium?
I have not yet, but it looks like AL. I suspect its just debris shaken out of the block from machining. Even with a tanked block , things shake out after the heat cycles and vibration of running.
Did you try a magnet on those fines? I wonder if it’s aluminium?
I have not yet, but it looks like AL. I suspect its just debris shaken out of the block from machining. Even with a tanked block , things shake out after the heat cycles and vibration of running.
Originally Posted By: Artem
Wow. Mine didn't have that much. Almost makes me wonder why the oil filter didn't catch it. Hmmmm.
I don't think i was circulating, just sitting in the pan after getting shook loose from the block, just my hypothesis anyway.
Wow. Mine didn't have that much. Almost makes me wonder why the oil filter didn't catch it. Hmmmm.
I don't think i was circulating, just sitting in the pan after getting shook loose from the block, just my hypothesis anyway.
Just checked, it is not magnetic , its very fine, actually looks larger i think due to it reflecting the flash of the camera. Wiping with a paper towel, i could hardly see it on the towel, unless the light is at a certain angle.
If i had a filter cutter, i'd love to see in the filter. Might have to shop for one.
If i had a filter cutter, i'd love to see in the filter. Might have to shop for one.
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