Hey guys, I've been an avid forum reader for years & decided to make my first post after searching, but not finding any real answers. I'm getting a 2015 2.7 EcoBoost. It requires 5W-30 oil, I was planning on using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum oil. My buddies are telling me that Mobile 1 Extended Performance is better. Then I hear that all turbo charged, direct injection engines should use an oil that's certified HT-06 (or something like that) which both the Pennzoil & Mobile are. The Pennzoil however has more certifications than the Mobile, does this make it a better oil ? I'm so confused right now about which oil to use. The Pennzoil is more available in my area. Also, how long should I run the factory fill oil ? Some say change it right away, some say 500 miles, 1000 miles ? I don't tow anything so no severe duty at all.
Oil for EcoBoost
- Thread starter Fasttimez
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It's all going to work.
Get which is cheaper or more convenient to you.
Change your oil based on your Owner's manual, which will likely be 5k or 7.5k miles.
I understand why people feel compelled to change factory fill early or run short Oil changes.
But it's illogical because they don't have the same attitude towards the rest of their car. They aren't changing out their factory tires and factory brakes after 50% usage or the factory lightbulbs or factory wiper blades, etc etc.
Rest of your car will fall apart before any of this makes a difference. Use your time and effort for more productive things like waxing your car or something. Your paint appearance will be something noticeable and you can take pride in; versus your engine having lighter colored oil.
Get which is cheaper or more convenient to you.
Change your oil based on your Owner's manual, which will likely be 5k or 7.5k miles.
I understand why people feel compelled to change factory fill early or run short Oil changes.
But it's illogical because they don't have the same attitude towards the rest of their car. They aren't changing out their factory tires and factory brakes after 50% usage or the factory lightbulbs or factory wiper blades, etc etc.
Rest of your car will fall apart before any of this makes a difference. Use your time and effort for more productive things like waxing your car or something. Your paint appearance will be something noticeable and you can take pride in; versus your engine having lighter colored oil.
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Both oils are great. The key with DI and turbo engines is to change it frequently. DI has fuel dilution issues (some DI engines are worse in this regard than others) which shears the oil making it not protect as well. Turbo in general is hard on oil. But them together and you should use a quality oil (which you would be doing with either oil) and change it often.
I just got a 2014 Edge and plan to run the factory oil to 1500-2000 miles. But it is not the Ecoboost, it is the NA V6.
I just got a 2014 Edge and plan to run the factory oil to 1500-2000 miles. But it is not the Ecoboost, it is the NA V6.
The Ford specs. is all what really matters to you. Don't understand why people get wrapped up about the Honda Turbo specs. API SN oil is designed with turbos in mind. All certification means the oil passed for that particular certification, so, No, more certification doesn't make it better. I say if you like Pennzoil, use it. The only thing I know is that Mobil 1 Extended Performance gives a 15,000 mile/1 year guarantee vs. Pennzoil Platinum Ultra does not.
Originally Posted By: NH73
The Ford specs. is all what really matters to you. Don't understand why people get wrapped up about the Honda Turbo specs. API SN oil is designed with turbos in mind. All certification means the oil passed for that particular certification, so, No, more certification doesn't make it better. I say if you like Pennzoil, use it. The only thing I know is that Mobil 1 Extended Performance gives a 15,000 mile/1 year guarantee vs. Pennzoil Platinum Ultra does not.
Does this guarantee include fuel dilution from DI turbo engines ? I'm sure after 15,000 miles the fuel dilution from an EcoBoost engine would be very high as I've read UOA's return over 5% on a regular basis at 5,000 miles.
The Ford specs. is all what really matters to you. Don't understand why people get wrapped up about the Honda Turbo specs. API SN oil is designed with turbos in mind. All certification means the oil passed for that particular certification, so, No, more certification doesn't make it better. I say if you like Pennzoil, use it. The only thing I know is that Mobil 1 Extended Performance gives a 15,000 mile/1 year guarantee vs. Pennzoil Platinum Ultra does not.
Does this guarantee include fuel dilution from DI turbo engines ? I'm sure after 15,000 miles the fuel dilution from an EcoBoost engine would be very high as I've read UOA's return over 5% on a regular basis at 5,000 miles.
My advice is to read the vehicle manual and pick an oil that meets the correct viscosity and specs. Ford makes some very good oil that you should also consider along with Ford oil filters. Don't overthink this. Just follow Fords recommendations that are in your manual and you will be just fine. Ed
Look, read and know: gf-6.com
Fuel dilution. soot contamination of oil, timing chain wear as a result, and LSPI (low speed pre ignition )are all hallmarks of these engines. Having said that, my 3.5 Boost is doing fine at close to 90k miles. Always use a Motorcraft filter and the oil spec Ford recommends until the warranty runs out. 'Round here short OCIs are the order of the day, 3-5k, and I am using an A3 rated oil, Castrol Edge 0w-40.
These are great engines and mine is an absolute blast, but the wise know how hard these things work and make provisions for them.
The 2.7 is a terrific engine, please keep in touch with how it does.
Fuel dilution. soot contamination of oil, timing chain wear as a result, and LSPI (low speed pre ignition )are all hallmarks of these engines. Having said that, my 3.5 Boost is doing fine at close to 90k miles. Always use a Motorcraft filter and the oil spec Ford recommends until the warranty runs out. 'Round here short OCIs are the order of the day, 3-5k, and I am using an A3 rated oil, Castrol Edge 0w-40.
These are great engines and mine is an absolute blast, but the wise know how hard these things work and make provisions for them.
The 2.7 is a terrific engine, please keep in touch with how it does.
Originally Posted By: double vanos
Look, read and know: gf-6.com
Fuel dilution. soot contamination of oil, timing chain wear as a result, and LSPI (low speed pre ignition )are all hallmarks of these engines. Having said that, my 3.5 Boost is doing fine at close to 90k miles. Always use a Motorcraft filter and the oil spec Ford recommends until the warranty runs out. 'Round here short OCIs are the order of the day, 3-5k, and I am using an A3 rated oil, Castrol Edge 0w-40.
These are great engines and mine is an absolute blast, but the wise know how hard these things work and make provisions for them.
The 2.7 is a terrific engine, please keep in touch with how it does.
Thanks for the info. Are you using a 0W-40 because of fuel dilution ? I've read a lot about fuel dilution being the biggest problem & how guys will run a 0W or 5W-40 oil to combat this.
Look, read and know: gf-6.com
Fuel dilution. soot contamination of oil, timing chain wear as a result, and LSPI (low speed pre ignition )are all hallmarks of these engines. Having said that, my 3.5 Boost is doing fine at close to 90k miles. Always use a Motorcraft filter and the oil spec Ford recommends until the warranty runs out. 'Round here short OCIs are the order of the day, 3-5k, and I am using an A3 rated oil, Castrol Edge 0w-40.
These are great engines and mine is an absolute blast, but the wise know how hard these things work and make provisions for them.
The 2.7 is a terrific engine, please keep in touch with how it does.
Thanks for the info. Are you using a 0W-40 because of fuel dilution ? I've read a lot about fuel dilution being the biggest problem & how guys will run a 0W or 5W-40 oil to combat this.
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I completely understand people getting a new car and then saying "I'm going to put 'the best' oil in it." However, there is no "best" oil.
M1, M1 EP, PP, PUP, they're all excellent oils, and I don't think any one of them will make your vehicle last any longer than any of the other ones. So pick which company you like best and get that oil, because between the M1 EP and the PUP you're trying to decide between, neither one of them will let you down.
Honestly, I say go with the M1 EP, not because I'm saying it's better, but because you can get it with the $12 rebate right now making it a better price. So I say get two 5-quart containers and submit the rebates for them. Then change your oil after 1000 miles. That's what I'd do, but a lot of people believe in leaving the factory fill oil in for the full duration, and their engines run just fine too. So really, do what you want, but I prefer to change out the factory fill early even though I know it's not really needed.
Lastly, I suggest sticking with oil of the recommended weight and certifications while under warranty. That way in the unlikely event that you need to do some warranty work that's motor oil related, Ford won't be able to say that it was caused b/c you were using an oil that didn't meet their specifications.
M1, M1 EP, PP, PUP, they're all excellent oils, and I don't think any one of them will make your vehicle last any longer than any of the other ones. So pick which company you like best and get that oil, because between the M1 EP and the PUP you're trying to decide between, neither one of them will let you down.
Honestly, I say go with the M1 EP, not because I'm saying it's better, but because you can get it with the $12 rebate right now making it a better price. So I say get two 5-quart containers and submit the rebates for them. Then change your oil after 1000 miles. That's what I'd do, but a lot of people believe in leaving the factory fill oil in for the full duration, and their engines run just fine too. So really, do what you want, but I prefer to change out the factory fill early even though I know it's not really needed.
Lastly, I suggest sticking with oil of the recommended weight and certifications while under warranty. That way in the unlikely event that you need to do some warranty work that's motor oil related, Ford won't be able to say that it was caused b/c you were using an oil that didn't meet their specifications.
If you spend too much reading forums on TGDI engines like the Eco-Boost you will convince yourself that the engine will die a horrible flaming death if you don't change the oil at
Here is a fact, there are over 500,000 Eco-Boost powered F150's on the road. And I guarantee you the majority of owners are using the OLM (which for most will give you ~7.5K-10k OCI's depending on your driving style). And most are using Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil and Motorcraft filters.
Based on what I have looked into and conversations with a few Ford mechanics who work on these, here is what I have learned.
The engine was designed for 5w-20 and originally spec'd with that. Some smaller Eco-Boost engines still spec 5w-20. The fuel dilution is well documented, and the recommendation of 5w-30 takes this into account. I have yet to see a UOA with fuel dilution that shows any abnormal wear. Under normal driving conditions you should be able to follow the OLM with the spec'd oil and filter (Motorcraft). If you wanted to play it conservative, you could run 5k OCI's. Running 5w-30 PUP, M1, Castrol Edge, RP, Synpower or even full synthetic Motorcraft is a step up in oil. I would follow the OLM using a full synthetic, again the fuel dilution is taken into account. Using 0w-40 oil would provide even more buffer for the fuel dilution, but it is not the spec'd oil. This is not an automatic warranty dis-qualifier, but it could be an issue if you have any (unlikely) engine issues.
You also are not required by warranty to use the Motorcraft filters. They are generally good, but a few have shown up on BITOG with the tears that Purolator products have seen. You can use Wix, Fram, M1, RP, Amsoil filters with no harm and no warranty issues as alternatives.
If you plan on towing I would highly recommend using premium fuel to get added performance (I've been told somewhere between 20 and 40 hp gain) and less fuel dilution (Allegedly, I haven't tested this. But I can feel the increase in power with premium).
I am currently running 5w-30 Castrol Edge and the engine is quiet and runs great. There is a faint fuel smell in my oil but no more than my Wife's non-turbo GDI Ford Focus. I plan on running this change at least 5k to clean out whatever was in it before. Then I will switch to Castrol Edge (German Castrol) 0w-40 and plan on using the OLM. I have three co-workers with F150 Eco-Boost and they are either changing at 5k with the local dealer's bulk Valvoline or using the OLM with Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic. They all love their trucks and have had no problems. Their experiences were part of what got me to look at a Ford Eco-Boost.
Enjoy your F150 and don't spend too much time reading about all the modifications that are "required" to keep it running.
Here is a fact, there are over 500,000 Eco-Boost powered F150's on the road. And I guarantee you the majority of owners are using the OLM (which for most will give you ~7.5K-10k OCI's depending on your driving style). And most are using Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil and Motorcraft filters.
Based on what I have looked into and conversations with a few Ford mechanics who work on these, here is what I have learned.
The engine was designed for 5w-20 and originally spec'd with that. Some smaller Eco-Boost engines still spec 5w-20. The fuel dilution is well documented, and the recommendation of 5w-30 takes this into account. I have yet to see a UOA with fuel dilution that shows any abnormal wear. Under normal driving conditions you should be able to follow the OLM with the spec'd oil and filter (Motorcraft). If you wanted to play it conservative, you could run 5k OCI's. Running 5w-30 PUP, M1, Castrol Edge, RP, Synpower or even full synthetic Motorcraft is a step up in oil. I would follow the OLM using a full synthetic, again the fuel dilution is taken into account. Using 0w-40 oil would provide even more buffer for the fuel dilution, but it is not the spec'd oil. This is not an automatic warranty dis-qualifier, but it could be an issue if you have any (unlikely) engine issues.
You also are not required by warranty to use the Motorcraft filters. They are generally good, but a few have shown up on BITOG with the tears that Purolator products have seen. You can use Wix, Fram, M1, RP, Amsoil filters with no harm and no warranty issues as alternatives.
If you plan on towing I would highly recommend using premium fuel to get added performance (I've been told somewhere between 20 and 40 hp gain) and less fuel dilution (Allegedly, I haven't tested this. But I can feel the increase in power with premium).
I am currently running 5w-30 Castrol Edge and the engine is quiet and runs great. There is a faint fuel smell in my oil but no more than my Wife's non-turbo GDI Ford Focus. I plan on running this change at least 5k to clean out whatever was in it before. Then I will switch to Castrol Edge (German Castrol) 0w-40 and plan on using the OLM. I have three co-workers with F150 Eco-Boost and they are either changing at 5k with the local dealer's bulk Valvoline or using the OLM with Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic. They all love their trucks and have had no problems. Their experiences were part of what got me to look at a Ford Eco-Boost.
Enjoy your F150 and don't spend too much time reading about all the modifications that are "required" to keep it running.
Originally Posted By: BikeWhisperer
If you spend too much reading forums on TGDI engines like the Eco-Boost you will convince yourself that the engine will die a horrible flaming death if you don't change the oil at
Here is a fact, there are over 500,000 Eco-Boost powered F150's on the road. And I guarantee you the majority of owners are using the OLM (which for most will give you ~7.5K-10k OCI's depending on your driving style). And most are using Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil and Motorcraft filters.
Based on what I have looked into and conversations with a few Ford mechanics who work on these, here is what I have learned.
The engine was designed for 5w-20 and originally spec'd with that. Some smaller Eco-Boost engines still spec 5w-20. The fuel dilution is well documented, and the recommendation of 5w-30 takes this into account. I have yet to see a UOA with fuel dilution that shows any abnormal wear. Under normal driving conditions you should be able to follow the OLM with the spec'd oil and filter (Motorcraft). If you wanted to play it conservative, you could run 5k OCI's. Running 5w-30 PUP, M1, Castrol Edge, RP, Synpower or even full synthetic Motorcraft is a step up in oil. I would follow the OLM using a full synthetic, again the fuel dilution is taken into account. Using 0w-40 oil would provide even more buffer for the fuel dilution, but it is not the spec'd oil. This is not an automatic warranty dis-qualifier, but it could be an issue if you have any (unlikely) engine issues.
You also are not required by warranty to use the Motorcraft filters. They are generally good, but a few have shown up on BITOG with the tears that Purolator products have seen. You can use Wix, Fram, M1, RP, Amsoil filters with no harm and no warranty issues as alternatives.
If you plan on towing I would highly recommend using premium fuel to get added performance (I've been told somewhere between 20 and 40 hp gain) and less fuel dilution (Allegedly, I haven't tested this. But I can feel the increase in power with premium).
I am currently running 5w-30 Castrol Edge and the engine is quiet and runs great. There is a faint fuel smell in my oil but no more than my Wife's non-turbo GDI Ford Focus. I plan on running this change at least 5k to clean out whatever was in it before. Then I will switch to Castrol Edge (German Castrol) 0w-40 and plan on using the OLM. I have three co-workers with F150 Eco-Boost and they are either changing at 5k with the local dealer's bulk Valvoline or using the OLM with Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic. They all love their trucks and have had no problems. Their experiences were part of what got me to look at a Ford Eco-Boost.
Enjoy your F150 and don't spend too much time reading about all the modifications that are "required" to keep it running.
Thanks for all the info. I have a buddy that uses 5w-30 Redline oil in his EcoBoost. His reasoning is high HTHS & VI numbers he says is great for a turbo DI engine. But I believe Redline isn't API approved. So I'm gonna stick with the Mobile or PUP for warranty reasons, even though looking at the Redline specs it's a pretty amazing looking oil.
If you spend too much reading forums on TGDI engines like the Eco-Boost you will convince yourself that the engine will die a horrible flaming death if you don't change the oil at
Here is a fact, there are over 500,000 Eco-Boost powered F150's on the road. And I guarantee you the majority of owners are using the OLM (which for most will give you ~7.5K-10k OCI's depending on your driving style). And most are using Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil and Motorcraft filters.
Based on what I have looked into and conversations with a few Ford mechanics who work on these, here is what I have learned.
The engine was designed for 5w-20 and originally spec'd with that. Some smaller Eco-Boost engines still spec 5w-20. The fuel dilution is well documented, and the recommendation of 5w-30 takes this into account. I have yet to see a UOA with fuel dilution that shows any abnormal wear. Under normal driving conditions you should be able to follow the OLM with the spec'd oil and filter (Motorcraft). If you wanted to play it conservative, you could run 5k OCI's. Running 5w-30 PUP, M1, Castrol Edge, RP, Synpower or even full synthetic Motorcraft is a step up in oil. I would follow the OLM using a full synthetic, again the fuel dilution is taken into account. Using 0w-40 oil would provide even more buffer for the fuel dilution, but it is not the spec'd oil. This is not an automatic warranty dis-qualifier, but it could be an issue if you have any (unlikely) engine issues.
You also are not required by warranty to use the Motorcraft filters. They are generally good, but a few have shown up on BITOG with the tears that Purolator products have seen. You can use Wix, Fram, M1, RP, Amsoil filters with no harm and no warranty issues as alternatives.
If you plan on towing I would highly recommend using premium fuel to get added performance (I've been told somewhere between 20 and 40 hp gain) and less fuel dilution (Allegedly, I haven't tested this. But I can feel the increase in power with premium).
I am currently running 5w-30 Castrol Edge and the engine is quiet and runs great. There is a faint fuel smell in my oil but no more than my Wife's non-turbo GDI Ford Focus. I plan on running this change at least 5k to clean out whatever was in it before. Then I will switch to Castrol Edge (German Castrol) 0w-40 and plan on using the OLM. I have three co-workers with F150 Eco-Boost and they are either changing at 5k with the local dealer's bulk Valvoline or using the OLM with Motorcraft Semi-Synthetic. They all love their trucks and have had no problems. Their experiences were part of what got me to look at a Ford Eco-Boost.
Enjoy your F150 and don't spend too much time reading about all the modifications that are "required" to keep it running.
Thanks for all the info. I have a buddy that uses 5w-30 Redline oil in his EcoBoost. His reasoning is high HTHS & VI numbers he says is great for a turbo DI engine. But I believe Redline isn't API approved. So I'm gonna stick with the Mobile or PUP for warranty reasons, even though looking at the Redline specs it's a pretty amazing looking oil.
This post brings up a few interesting topics that I think are worth exploring like, the different characteristics that make oil ideal for both turbo chargers as well as a direct injection. I think these are main aspects that differentiate this engine and likely the oil recommendations.
A water cooled turbo and grade step up makes many ignorant posts on this particular subject quite frustrating to read.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Ford's entire product line incorporates some incarceration of Ecoboost. It has been on the market since 2009 (as 2010 models). Do we actually believe they wouldnt have changed a simple thing as oil recomendations if it meant better reliability scores and/or customer satisfaction? If you want to use "full synthetic", go right ahead, but if it isn't required by the OEM, there's no need.
I thought bitog was for people that love talking shop about all good oils, not just spouting the supernatural abilities of GrpIII.
I thought bitog was for people that love talking shop about all good oils, not just spouting the supernatural abilities of GrpIII.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted By: dave1251
A water cooled turbo and grade step up makes many ignorant posts on this particular subject quite frustrating to read.
A water cooled turbo and grade step up makes many ignorant posts on this particular subject quite frustrating to read.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
A water cooled turbo and grade step up makes many ignorant posts on this particular subject quite frustrating to read.
You want to see blatantly ignorant and crazy posts head over to F150Ecoboost.net and you'll get them by the metric ton.
But on this particular thread, I don't see that anyone is making outlandish claims. So please elaborate on your comment.
A water cooled turbo and grade step up makes many ignorant posts on this particular subject quite frustrating to read.
You want to see blatantly ignorant and crazy posts head over to F150Ecoboost.net and you'll get them by the metric ton.
But on this particular thread, I don't see that anyone is making outlandish claims. So please elaborate on your comment.
Honestly, though purely anecdotal, I'm using QSUD 5w30 in my little Sonata 2.4 GDI (currently at around 78k, been using QSUD since I've had it, which has been for the past 15k or so), and no complaints whatsoever. Like many are saying on here, choose a decent oil and filter, and enjoy!
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Originally Posted By: Fasttimez
My buddies are telling me that Mobile 1 Extended Performance is better.
It's better if you like hearing all kinds of strange metallic noises.
Mobil 1 Noise
My buddies are telling me that Mobile 1 Extended Performance is better.
It's better if you like hearing all kinds of strange metallic noises.
Mobil 1 Noise
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