Expert recommendations for 2.0 ecoboost

M

mco30mco

Joined
May 22, 2021
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Location
Michigan
I have another thread going on the valvoline oil but I’m curious what the experts here would run in 2.0 ecoboost from new. Make it interesting any ecoboost seeing that they all are hard on oil. Would you run a specialty oil or stick with ford spec? Would you run a different weight? Would you stick to early changes no matter what oil you used?
I phrased the question different than most that would just ask what’s the best oil cause I know that question ruffles some feathers
Thanks for the replies in advance
 
How long and how many miles do you plan on keeping the vehicle, how will it be used?
 
Gonna keep it along time, I already rust proofed it all with fluid film and ceramic it I. The first week.
Mostly city driving with some highway tossed in now and then. Prolly 12000 to 16000 per year
 
Here are some UOAs from my two 2.0L ecoboost engines in the edge and fusion. 0w-40 vs 5w-30 did not provide too much of a difference in wear, granted the 0w-40 ran double the oci.

2016 Edge

2016 Ford Edge, 2.0L ecoboost, 6,166mi OCI, Rotella Gas Truck 5w-30

Most recent uoa on our 2016 ford edge, the winter OCI. This vehicle is my wife's work car and is short tripped to and from work with the occasional long trip. Vehicle is remote started at least once a day and is stored in our un heated unattached garage. Previous fill was valvoline full syn...
bobistheoilguy.com

2016 Ford Edge, 2.0L ecoboost, napa syn 5w-30, 4,876mi OCI

Took this sample on our 2016 edge this was the first UOA I have performed on this vehicle. Have owned it for 2 years and since 38,000 miles. Oil was bulk napa (valvoline) synthetic and a wix 1348 oil filter. OCI had 4,876 miles on it and the edge had 54,263 at time of OCI. Refilled with RTG...
bobistheoilguy.com

2015 Fusion:

2015 Ford Fusion, 2.0L Ecoboost, 12.5K, Amsoil SSO 0w-40

Most recent UOA for my 2015 Ford Fusion with the 2.0L Ecoboost. This run had 12,575mi, 333 hours, and 25.7 average mpg. Oil (amsoil sso 0w-40, SN+) and filter (OG Fram Ultra 3614) installed 8/14/22 and drained 6/2/23. This was the winter run so lots of remote starting and warming up, and cold...
bobistheoilguy.com
 
I'm certainly no 'expert' but if I bought a new Ecoboost 2.0 I'd be more interested in changing the oil often than using a 'specialty oil'. I'd probably use Quaker State 5w30 synthetic or even Kirkland 5w30 synthetic and change it every 5K. I might even use one of the Euro 5w30's.
 
Two major things to be concerned with regarding GTDI engines in general, and one in regard to the 4cylinder EB engines in particular.

First, pretty much all GTDI engines will perhaps have potential issues with:
- fuel dilution... No engine oil can stop this, and really can't even mask the effects to any large degree. Once dilution affects wear rates, there's nothing an oil can do to stop it; not really even dissuade it. Generally I think oil selection in regard to dilution is grossly over-blown. We've seen plenty of data that shows low and moderate dilution doesn't seem to affect wear rates. And when dilution gets bad enough to affect wear, the oil can't knock the dilution off its evil path. So to a large degree, oil selection in regard to dilution is moot. People often look at a UOA and stare at the fuel %, and then make a decision; that's not the right method to make a judgement. Rather, people should look at the wear rates; if they go unaffected, the fuel % is moot. If the wear rates are affected, then it's become a problem. It is literally that simple. The oil you choose isn't going to greatly affect this one way or another.

- intake valve fouling,,, Here, a high quality oil with a very low NOACK score (or pragmatic equivalent) will help reduce vapors leaving the crankcase which are bound for reintroduction to the intake tract. I do believe that using a high-quality oil in this regard may have some positive residual effects (pardon the pun). This is one area where oil selection can make a significant difference. There are a few products which have very good NOACK scores; some of the Mobil1 and Pennzoil products for example (some, but not all). But, I believe that the brand of oil most likely to reduce this concern to a very low level of risk is HPL; their lubes are nearly off the chart (in a desirable way) in controlling evaporative vapors because of the base stocks, additive selection, etc. I have decided to run HPL lubes in my two GDI engines because of this concern. Some OEMs have gone to a dual-fuel-injection scheme; this helps. But again, that's a mechanical solution to the problem, not an oil related one.



- 4cyl EB engines themselves... They have a design where the cylinders were not fully siamesed and the head gasket surface area between cylinders is VERY thin; so much so that this has caused problems with eventual gasket seal failures in many engines. Ford did improve the design a few years back, slightly, by altering the design to provide coolant cross-flow via a drilled path rather than a sliced cut. But, NO ENGINE OIL is going to solve this problem, so it's a moot point in regard to your question.


That's my non-expert take, anyway.
 
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mco30mco said:
I have another thread going on the valvoline oil but I’m curious what the experts here would run in 2.0 ecoboost from new. Make it interesting any ecoboost seeing that they all are hard on oil. Would you run a specialty oil or stick with ford spec? Would you run a different weight? Would you stick to early changes no matter what oil you used?
I phrased the question different than most that would just ask what’s the best oil cause I know that question ruffles some feathers
Thanks for the replies in advance
Click to expand...
I'd choose a 5W-30 full synthetic and change on the 5000 mile mark, 10k, 15K, 20K, you get the idea. However, I would, at least in winter, not pick an oil formulated with an AN base stock. As AN's make truly great lubricants, but don't flow quite as well as, for example a PAO based oil, in extreme cold conditions, which Michigan can sometimes have. No problem at 10 or15ºF, but well below zero, AN's don't flow like conventional synthetics.

One fairly reliable way to know is to look at the pour point of the oil. If the pour point is -33ºF, it is likely an AN based synthetic.

By way of comparison, the pour point of M1 5W-30 EP is -33ºF, while HPL's 5W-30 (no viscosity index oil) is -76ºF
The M1 is a spectacular oil and I use it regularly in FL in my EB engine and supercharged Jag. I would not choose it in Alaska.

NOTE: There are some here on this forum who will correctly note that pour point is meaningless with regard to an oil's performance in general use. However, in my travels, I've found that some oils really don't work well in extreme cold. Michigan can occasionally get extremely cold weather.
 
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Cujet said:
I'd choose a 5W-30 full synthetic and change on the 5000 mile mark, 10k, 15K, 20K, you get the idea. However, I would, at least in winter, not pick an oil formulated with an AN base stock. As AN's make truly great lubricants, but don't flow quite as well as, for example a PAO based oil, in extreme cold conditions, which Michigan can sometimes have. No problem at 10 or15ºF, but well below zero, AN's don't flow like conventional synthetics.

One fairly reliable way to know is to look at the pour point of the oil. If the pour point is -33ºF, it is likely an AN based synthetic.

By way of comparison, the pour point of M1 5W-30 EP is -33ºF, while HPL's 5W-30 (no viscosity index oil) is -76ºF
The M1 is a spectacular oil and I use it regularly in FL in my EB engine and supercharged Jag. I would not choose it in Alaska.
Click to expand...
 
Hmm, you made a point which might give away valvoline restore n protects secret. I asked them some details and one was pour point. They stated 32.8 F. So maybe they are using AN
 
mco30mco said:
Hmm, you made a point which might give away valvoline restore n protects secret. I asked them some details and one was pour point. They stated 32.8 F. So maybe they are using AN
Click to expand...
I was thinkin that wasn’t a good number but your explanation may shine light on the topic
 
Oil isn't the issue. The mainstream oils with the proper ratings are more alike than different despite what marketing tells the experts.
 
Extreme cold was not initially mentioned, but I would agree that if extreme cold (well below zero F on a routine basis) is a concern, then you'll want to concentrate on a fairly "thin" lube with few if any VIIs; HPL does have a product for that as well. Not that HPL is the only answer, but it's good to be one of the first considered.
 
dnewton3 said:
Extreme cold was not initially mentioned, but I would agree that if extreme cold (well below zero F on a routine basis) is a concern, then you'll want to concentrate on a fairly "thin" lube with few if any VIIs; HPL does have a product for that as well. Not that HPL is the only answer, but it's good to be one of the first considered.
Click to expand...
A lot of talk on here about hpl. Are they api ilsac or meet any company requirements or do just we trust they exceed all requirements. Just curious. Maybe I’ll order some.
 
wpod said:
Oil isn't the issue. The mainstream oils with the proper ratings are more alike than different despite what marketing tells the experts.
Click to expand...

There is a lot to this subject and there are oil that are clearly superior. Superior in cleanliness, superior in low temperature flow, superior in timing chain protection and so on. Ford will gladly sell you their Motorcraft semi-synthetic oil, and let owners go by the Oil Life Monitor. Fully meeting warranty requirements. Then refuse to replace the timing chain when it fails just outside of the warranty period, the cam phasers when they start knocking, the turbocharger when it locks up, or camshaft when it's flat-out worn out. Or for that matter, all of the above.

Granted a good part of avoiding the above problems involve employing frequent oil changes. Many direct injected engines dilute the oil with fuel, evaporated fuel by products and combustion byproducts/soot. But the other part of the equation is an oil that holds up, does not shear, maintains adequate viscosity when hot (high HTHS) , and does not clog piston ring drain holes, or coke up the turbine hot side.
 
Found these at the PENNZOIL site . The ULTRA looks to be CERTIFIED Dexos 1 the same as the PLATINUM . Just not on the bottles like that of the PLATINUM . The U.O.A.s below that I discovered are ULTRA so they should help the debate for using it for D.I. due to L.S.P.I , catalytic converter damage and being a benefit to fuel dilution .

IMG_2678.JPG


2016 PRIUS w/ E.F.I. (?)

IMG_2663.JPG


U.O.A. below is from this site , https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/pennzoil-ultra-platinum-5w20-2014-mazda-6-8k-miles.358908/ . It's Direct Injection .

IMG_2665.JPG
 
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