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Welcome 2024 member … we run Mobil 1 5W30 in the Lexus in signature - spec is 0W20 …
Oil Info Overload 0W-20
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Haha this may be true. I used penn plat on my 2009 nissan altima (bought that brand new) and it got 195k miles before trans caused issued. OCI was 3750 but i probably stretched it to 5k to 6k in most cases. While i mag get bored of a car i dont get bored of no car payment haha. I guess i should just stick with what has worked for me in the past
I did that (stock up on rebstes) with the Penn Platinum i ran in my Altima. What additive package do yoy use with Penn Ultra Platinum? Be curious to hear more on this
I would recommend 0W-30 as well after the warranty or infant mortality period depending on your comfort level.
Fretting over which oil to use may interfere with your enjoyment of the new Lexus. I apply this axiom and life is simpler.
todoist
I will certainly look into this more. I guess my initial thought is why they wouldnt recommend this to begin with but perhaps its my ignorance on oil weights and viscosity kicking in
You sir, are far too reasonable with that post.
There is a place for that outstanding HPL product, but Cap'n Penz and Admiral Mobil have you MORE than covered.
See, you aren't really in a bind at all. You just got caught up in the "bitogisteria" but you followed the light back to sanity.
EDIT: I'm kinda in the camp that 30 grade oils are a ticky tick better than 20s. I'm not a thickie, but sometimes thicker really is better. If you get on it and play a little at high revs, go up a grade to 5/30
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Or buy something that's ALMOST as good for 40% of the cost. He's going to run short intervals. The only reasons to run HPL or other boutiques are severe duty or exceedingly long intervals.
Nobody knows why PUP doesn't have the certification. Could be that they just didn't want to pay for the testing and license, or it could be that there's a requirement that it wouldn't meet.
They're referring to the additive package that's already in PUP. It's got a bit more detergent and moly, and some borate ester, which is a detergent and friction modifier. More additive isn't always better, but I'd say the PUP is probably better suited for longer OCIs.
The recommended grade is a trade off between fuel efficiency and high temperature/high load engine protection. Some owners prioritize those things differently than the manufacturer. A thicker grade won't protect any better unless oil temperatures are very high, so for your average driver there is no benefit, but in a racing or towing application, or in a hot climate, a thicker grade of oil might reduce wear.
Haha this might be it to a T. I am looking for "the best" (within reason) and the decision was really stressing me out. The choices vs happiness chart one poster mentioned really explains it. Sounds like Ill stick to PUP or M1 and call it a day. Its worked in my Nissan and my Honda so it should be good enough here.
Use it all. Grab TGMO if you can get that cheaper or use PZ or M1 during rebate season if that is cheaper. Or do all of the above. Or pick your favorite color bottle and just stick with that forever.
Here is what I have used in the Toyota. I cannot tell the difference between any of it.
TGMO
Valvoline Advanced
Pennzoil Platinum
M1 AFE
Here is what I have used in the Toyota. I cannot tell the difference between any of it.
TGMO
Valvoline Advanced
Pennzoil Platinum
M1 AFE
I would dump that oil at 5k and run a full synthetic 5w30, pick your choice of brand, any will do! If you want really good oil there are many boutique oils to choose from.
Your owners manual will state that if you drive in a lot of stop and go, dusty roads, or tow with it, you NEED to change the oil every 5k, not 10k. It will also state that higher viscosity may be more suited.
Other than that, it’s a Toyota so you have a good chance of a problem free vehicle with years of enjoyment.
Your owners manual will state that if you drive in a lot of stop and go, dusty roads, or tow with it, you NEED to change the oil every 5k, not 10k. It will also state that higher viscosity may be more suited.
Other than that, it’s a Toyota so you have a good chance of a problem free vehicle with years of enjoyment.
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Yes you are. A vast amount of information here is personal experience and not based on anything but a anecdotal fallacy. Just use what multi grade oil is recommended in your owners manual and you are good to go.
The key thing here is 5k oci. Toyotas are notorious for gummed up rings and oil consumption on the 10k oci
If you know the oil never gets over about 85c an oil that ends in 20 is fine.
Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil ultra platinum or Castrol edge extended performance
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Triple_Se7en
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Purchased at Walmart or auto part stores, I always recommend the long distance oils.
Besides what Rogueman entered here ^^^^ regarding extra performance oils, you can be well protected using Quaker State Ultimate (EP) Valvoline EP, Fram EP and even Supertech 20k Advanced (EP).
If you ever get the itch and want to spend more on boutique oils, there's Red Line, Liqui-Moly, Ravenol, Amsoil, HPL.
If I were buying for that Toyota at Walmart, I'd get the Mobil-1 EP Triple Action oil. Both of my vehicles think of it as Korean Filet Mignon.
Besides what Rogueman entered here ^^^^ regarding extra performance oils, you can be well protected using Quaker State Ultimate (EP) Valvoline EP, Fram EP and even Supertech 20k Advanced (EP).
If you ever get the itch and want to spend more on boutique oils, there's Red Line, Liqui-Moly, Ravenol, Amsoil, HPL.
If I were buying for that Toyota at Walmart, I'd get the Mobil-1 EP Triple Action oil. Both of my vehicles think of it as Korean Filet Mignon.
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I’d skip the TGMO every single time. It’s loaded with VIIs so that it shears down quickly for a fuel economy benefit. I don’t think anyone can say with 100% certainty, but re: Toyota ring issues, I’m willing to bet that a good part of those gummed up oil control rings are actually plugged with caramelized, sheared-down VII fragments.
Even though I’m a huge PUP fan and have had great success with it, and have moved all my machinery over to HPL, it’s pretty clear to me that M1 EP is the best option of the 20- and 30-grade shelf stock offerings at WM, and the M1 FS 0w40 is king in that class.
Even though I’m a huge PUP fan and have had great success with it, and have moved all my machinery over to HPL, it’s pretty clear to me that M1 EP is the best option of the 20- and 30-grade shelf stock offerings at WM, and the M1 FS 0w40 is king in that class.
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