Why/ why not run oil level at MIN?

My way of thinking is the complete opposite, I like to fill it over the specified capacity, once I determine that it's safe to do that anyway. In most engines it's completely safe to fill it a half quart over the listed capacity and in some cases (like my old 98 Corvette) you can go a full quart over (I did that for 9 years) With more oil in there that means less stress overall on the oil so it should be able to handle the longer intervals better.
 
Heat up faster?

That's the thermostat's job.
Don't some/ most/ all engines have piston squirters that try to remove heat from the bottoms of pistons, so during the warm up cycle the oil gets hotter faster than the engine block? Ignore oil-to-water coolers for this hypothesis.
 
Don't some/ most/ all engines have piston squirters that try to remove heat from the bottoms of pistons, so during the warm up cycle the oil gets hotter faster than the engine block? Ignore oil-to-water coolers for this hypothesis.
Most turbo or high power engines have squirters, the rest get some oil flinged up there by the crankshaft
 
My Accent with the iron block 1.6L is a terribly cold blooded engine. OE it comes with a 180F tstat but it seldom would run that when really cold. And no real good heat unless above that. I put in a 192F tstat and that gives great heat but still it takes a long time to get to the opening temp of 188F.

With the manual transmission, any time you coast in gear or drive around town you will lose 10F, so I lug it when cold as someone else said and coast in neutral when coming to a stop. Only has 3.2 qt of oil to stat with.

When really cold into the single and negative digits I will completely cover the front of the radiator. Until it starts hitting 50F then it is half covered. The jiggle valve in the tstat I plug too. Found this makes a noticeable difference when warming up from cold.
 
My Accent with the iron block 1.6L is a terribly cold blooded engine. OE it comes with a 180F tstat but it seldom would run that when really cold. And no real good heat unless above that. I put in a 192F tstat and that gives great heat but still it takes a long time to get to the opening temp of 188F.

With the manual transmission, any time you coast in gear or drive around town you will lose 10F, so I lug it when cold as someone else said and coast in neutral when coming to a stop. Only has 3.2 qt of oil to stat with.

When really cold into the single and negative digits I will completely cover the front of the radiator. Until it starts hitting 50F then it is half covered. The jiggle valve in the tstat I plug too. Found this makes a noticeable difference when warming up from cold.
I find that leaving it in 3rd gear instead of shifting to 4th once hitting 35 around town makes the car warm up much faster.
 
Too low of an oil level can cause timing chain slap which can cause wear and even break a chain guide.

Wouldn't that be an error on the manufacturers part to be saying minimum is ok when it's not ?

To me this whole thread should about whether you can trust the manufacturer when they say anywhere between min and max is acceptable. An opinion from any one of us is only valid if we know that the manufacture is wrong when they make that statement. Now manufacturers get all sorts of things wrong so I accept it's entirely possible.

No one asked the question is it acceptable to run below min so there is little point in addressing that even if it's the result of burning oil as it's always going to be the owners responsibility to keep the oil level above min. But is minimum Ok and do we have concrete reasons to say the manufacturers got the minimum mark wrong. That's the only question I would like to see answered.
 
Wouldn't that be an error on the manufacturers part to be saying minimum is ok when it's not ?
How much margin is there taking into.account that a vehicle is is not stationary while being driven? Some engines will suffer oil starvation even with a full sump under some driving conditions.
To me this whole thread should about whether you can trust the manufacturer when they say anywhere between min and max is acceptable.
I trust it for running the engine in a stationary vehicle.

An opinion from any one of us is only valid
Opinions and beliefs do not have to align with facts. The OP did not specify if he wanted opinions or facts. I often ask a question because I want to see what people believe not what they know. It can be interesting.

if we know that the manufacture is wrong when they make that statement.
They say "between" the max and min marks. I interpret that as "above min."
Now manufacturers get all sorts of things wrong so I accept it's entirely possible.
I agree but due to liability issues it's unlikely that the manufacturer's min and max marks will be grossly off. I woukd expect there to be a safety margin they don't disclose. It's a rabbit hole.

No one asked the question is it acceptable to run below min so there is little point in addressing that even if it's the result of burning oil as it's always going to be the owners responsibility to keep the oil level above min.
When you are operating at the bare minimum margin a lot of scenarios can get you below the minimum margin.

But is minimum Ok and do we have concrete reasons to say the manufacturers got the minimum mark wrong. That's the only question I would like to see answered.
Some engines do not sound great if they are started up with the oil.level near minimum. There can be increased valve clatter and timing chain noise. What about splash lubrication if the oil level is at minimum? Is it optimal, and if it's not is that a design flaw or just unavoidable?
 
I'd say that the real minimum is when there's no oil on the dipstick. I put oil in my engine when it's halfway between max and minimum
You may or may not be aware of this but the oil level is not actually low until it reaches the low/add/minimum mark. Many people think the level is low if it's not right at the full mark which is a bit silly unless your engine has other problems. And many people do the same thing you are doing, whatever spins your beanie -- it's certainly not hurting anything but also it's not necessary... unless your engine has other problems.
 
It should heat up faster because there is a smaller mass of oil to be brought up to a certain temperature; by some fast calculations it takes 100+ watts of energy to bring 1L/qt. of oil from ambient to operating temperature.
Will it overheat? The oil cooling capacity should be the same because, the same amount of oil will flow and get in contact with the engine, there is just a smaller puddle in the oil pan. Thermal inertia is definitely lower.
OCI will have to be shorter, but it would also be cheaper.
This seems like a really good idea for a short-triper. Am I missing something?

In my case; my old Honda had a min-max of 2.5-3.5 and i've always just bought and poured in 3 bottles of whatever was on sale @ 6 month OCI (2-6k miles). The engine is tip-top, but the car is totaled :(. Now, my new Toyota has a min-max of 2.7-4.2 sooo I could do 3 bottles (which feels low) or I could do 4 bottles at ?... 6 month...1year... 6k miles... 10k miles... I don't know.


Is this a serious question?!?! I’m completely mindblown. Common sense is NOT common anymore. WOW, JUST WOW!!!
 
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