Valvoline restore and protect ford 3.7

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Sep 20, 2023
Messages
15
So a little back story, I go to the states every month and I often bring back oil due to the discounted prices...pucked up 2 jugs and decided to try the new valvoline restore and protect 5w30.

Before I continue, I'm not some paid spokesperson or whatever I'm just some regular car guy who ultimately just wants his engine to run great and improve mileage whatever way I can without going full hypermiler...I mean if valvoline wants to sponsor some random dude on a forum then by all means whatever makes my bank account look happier...anyway

Few things to note about the ford 3.7 cyclone and 5.0 coyote engines...they can have lifter tick issues, rod bearing issues, piston slap etc and before anyone asks why I'm not using the oem recommended 5w20...my elderly neighbor is a jack of all trades but an actual master of all, does his OCI's at 3k miles with 5w20 for his cars because "as soon as you feel the oil lose its optimal lubricity on your finger tips, it's time to change" and based on the experiments I tried in my mustang with the old engine and diff brands of 5w20 and 5w30...dude is right, the 5w30's held its lubricity up to about 5k-6k miles while the various 5w20's I tried pretty much lost its lubricity at 2500-3500 miles...plus I notice zero difference in fuel economy with the 5w30 and I'm just not comfortable knowing that as the oil is being used before being changed, it will shear down no matter what...so 5w20 is a no go...also i use 5w30 because of fleets with 2.7, 3.5 ecoboost and 3.7 cyclone engines having less timing component related issues by using 5w30 instead of oem recommended 5w20 which is pretty much just for fuel economy standards to satisfy the epa...now onto the valvoline R&P doing it's initial magic.

I changed my 182k mile 3.7 v6 due to the waterpump leaking internally and contaminating the oil which ate up the rod bearings...found a brand new rebuilt but never run engine that sat in a garage for 2 years and slapped it in since it was the same cost as getting the higher mileage OG engine rebuilt, broke it in with 2 oil changes with Castrol edge 5w30 syn changed at 1000 miles no sparkles in oil, then supertech 5w30 syn changed at 3000 miles no sparkles in oil. Now running valvoline restore and protect 5w30 as of yesterday morning

Since the new engine was put in I had a lifter tick on start up that would go away after 2-3 min of warming up...with the valvoline after the first start up I had the lifter tick...but it immediately quieted down within 10 seconds, before it was a 10/10 noise wise, after valvo oil its at about a 5/10 noise level, drove it around for 20 min and shut it off, went to a buddies place later on at night and engine is stone cold, started it up and lifter tick is now at a 3/10 noise level, also the engine is definitely more quieter once fully warmed up and its really noticeable how much quieter it is because i have longtube headers and catted x pipe going to stock mufflers...I don't know the science behind it but I guess the molybdenum content makes the oil more slippery? Allowing the lifters to pump up easier? Or some magic sauce in the valvo R&P?

I'll update the thread with my rural country road gas mileage commute to see if any improvements normally I average 22mpg.

But now I have a question...while I can go to the states and get it at Walmart, is there anything within that same price range as valvo r&p that I can get here in canada with the same characteristic? I've heard liqui moly molygen is a decent alternative and I have used it in an 04 impala ss and saw a 2 mpg overall increase in mileage as well as my engine not having to work as hard idling based on the vacuum/boost gauge but would prefer something in the valvo R&P price range since I do 5k mile oci's...please don't tell me to get Castrol or mobil one or pennzoil...while my stang doesn't burn oil those oils always burned the most out of any brand I've tried in my other cars...I could probably Start another thread listing the oils that burned the most and least in my 2016 golf 1.8 tsi
 
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WELCOME!
Now that the warmer weather is here around the US & Ca., the lifter tick should be reduced with most oils. But, you're saying it is the much quieter still with the new Valvoline R&P? NICE! (y)
I'd also like to hear your feedback with the Valvoline R&P for the winter(next year of course) on cold startup and if there is lifter ticking once again during those colder months. ( ( ( BRRRRR ! ) ) )

Thanks for posting,
 
So, in your first post ....
- you moved to a thicker grade lube (specifically 5w-30 Valvoline R&P)
- you have experienced engine noise cut by 70% because the lube has moly and makes it more "slippery"
- you swapped out the engine after 182k mi and ran various lubes to break it in
- you have used a different brand and gained 2mpg as well as better idle vacuum
- you don't want recommendations for other popular, proven lube brands because you can write a liturgy of reasons why they all burn oil in your VW
- you want to know where you can get an oil like R&P, without having to drive into the States, for the same money, all while having the same perceived benefits

That about sum it up?
 
So, in your first post ....
- you moved to a thicker grade lube (specifically 5w-30 Valvoline R&P)
- you have experienced engine noise cut by 70% because the lube has moly and makes it more "slippery"
- you swapped out the engine after 182k mi and ran various lubes to break it in
- you have used a different brand and gained 2mpg as well as better idle vacuum
- you don't want recommendations for other popular, proven lube brands because you can write a liturgy of reasons why they all burn oil in your VW
- you want to know where you can get an oil like R&P, without having to drive into the States, for the same money, all while having the same perceived benefits

That about sum it up?
On the new engine I've only run 5w30

And exactly bud...I should also note that in other vehicles I've had, those 3 brands burned the most quantity of oil during the intervals in my other former vehicles as well, 2002 nissan altima 3.5, 1994 mustang gt, 1998 acura 1.6 el, 2004 impala ss, 2004 audi a4 1.8T and a 1988 thunderbird turbocoupe don't get me wrong I tried all those oils based on oil analysis reports from this site as a lurker...if I developed a leak or if pcv valve went bad then I wouldn't count that oil interval with that oil...I tried again with the next interval

And yeah if I can get R&P here in Chinada then why not...will it be same price? Obviously not our currency is an embarrassment compared to the almighty u.s dollar, but I'd rather not spend 70-80 bucks for molygen and a filter unless there's an affordable alternative that's readily available or if I can get the same oil here at a price that makes sense in case I magically run out and need it last min or whatever

And I ain't no scientist, I have a general basic understanding of oil compared to a lot of people on this forum...just going by what makes sense to me...so yes in my head it's slippery
 
Last edited:
WELCOME!
Now that the warmer weather is here around the US & Ca., the lifter tick should be reduced with most oils. But, you're saying it is the much quieter still with the new Valvoline R&P? NICE! (y)
I'd also like to hear your feedback with the Valvoline R&P for the winter(next year of course) on cold startup and if there is lifter ticking once again during those colder months. ( ( ( BRRRRR ! ) ) )

Thanks

WELCOME!
Now that the warmer weather is here around the US & Ca., the lifter tick should be reduced with most oils. But, you're saying it is the much quieter still with the new Valvoline R&P? NICE! (y)
I'd also like to hear your feedback with the Valvoline R&P for the winter(next year of course) on cold startup and if there is lifter ticking once again during those colder months. ( ( ( BRRRRR ! ) ) )

Thanks for posting,
Swapped the engine in February, in -5c it ticked just as loud as it does at +20c, and yes the tick is much quieter I just drove it again to drop the wife to work and it's still at a 3/10 loudness wise, when warmed up fully the engine is noticeably quieter compared to with not only the previous oils but also the previous engine prior to the waterpump issue that ultimately ruined my rod bearings

Appreciate the welcome, will definitely update thread in the winter if I can remember
 
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A couple guys including myself run molygen. It doesn't hold any license or approval other than api/ilsac. The tungsten in the mfc should make it more "slippery", but as for perceived benefit compared to R&P I have no idea.
 
Alright so I just did the typical Sunday morning commute, pretty much rural country roads with a few stop lights...not driving for economy, just driving how I normally do, filled at the pump, drove then came back and filled up again and did MUH CALCULATIONS...typically I average 22 mpg give or take 1 mpg depending on if I do a few 7k rpm rips for sunday morning commute...I just averaged....drumroll please

26.7 U.S MPG

alright now I'll leave it to you boys and girls to discuss and argue why MUH MOBIL MUH CASTROL MUH PENNZOIL IZ ZE BEST OIL NEIN NEIN NEIN, MEIN OIL ANALYSIS

Cool whatever...but valvoline R&P might just be the new marvel mystery oil...or the graphite oil the boomers raved about, what was it called Arco?
 
A couple guys including myself run molygen. It doesn't hold any license or approval other than api/ilsac. The tungsten in the mfc should make it more "slippery", but as for perceived benefit compared to R&P I have no idea.
Not really worried about licenses to be honest...I'm a type of guy that likes to live dangerously...I run non vw approved oil in my golf 1.8 tsi and it burns less than the vw approved oils LOL
 
So a little back story, I go to the states every month and I often bring back oil due to the discounted prices...pucked up 2 jugs and decided to try the new valvoline restore and protect 5w30.

Before I continue, I'm not some paid spokesperson or whatever I'm just some regular car guy who ultimately just wants his engine to run great and improve mileage whatever way I can without going full hypermiler...I mean if valvoline wants to sponsor some random dude on a forum then by all means whatever makes my bank account look happier...anyway

Few things to note about the ford 3.7 cyclone and 5.0 coyote engines...they can have lifter tick issues, rod bearing issues, piston slap etc and before anyone asks why I'm not using the oem recommended 5w20...my elderly neighbor is a jack of all trades but an actual master of all, does his OCI's at 3k miles with 5w20 for his cars because "as soon as you feel the oil lose its optimal lubricity on your finger tips, it's time to change" and based on the experiments I tried in my mustang with the old engine and diff brands of 5w20 and 5w30...dude is right, the 5w30's held its lubricity up to about 5k-6k miles while the various 5w20's I tried pretty much lost its lubricity at 2500-3500 miles...plus I notice zero difference in fuel economy with the 5w30 and I'm just not comfortable knowing that as the oil is being used before being changed, it will shear down no matter what...so 5w20 is a no go...also i use 5w30 because of fleets with 2.7, 3.5 ecoboost and 3.7 cyclone engines having less timing component related issues by using 5w30 instead of oem recommended 5w20 which is pretty much just for fuel economy standards to satisfy the epa...now onto the valvoline R&P doing it's initial magic.

I changed my 182k mile 3.7 v6 due to the waterpump leaking internally and contaminating the oil which ate up the rod bearings...found a brand new rebuilt but never run engine that sat in a garage for 2 years and slapped it in since it was the same cost as getting the higher mileage OG engine rebuilt, broke it in with 2 oil changes with Castrol edge 5w30 syn changed at 1000 miles no sparkles in oil, then supertech 5w30 syn changed at 3000 miles no sparkles in oil. Now running valvoline restore and protect 5w30 as of yesterday morning

Since the new engine was put in I had a lifter tick on start up that would go away after 2-3 min of warming up...with the valvoline after the first start up I had the lifter tick...but it immediately quieted down within 10 seconds, before it was a 10/10 noise wise, after valvo oil its at about a 5/10 noise level, drove it around for 20 min and shut it off, went to a buddies place later on at night and engine is stone cold, started it up and lifter tick is now at a 3/10 noise level, also the engine is definitely more quieter once fully warmed up and its really noticeable how much quieter it is because i have longtube headers and catted x pipe going to stock mufflers...I don't know the science behind it but I guess the molybdenum content makes the oil more slippery? Allowing the lifters to pump up easier? Or some magic sauce in the valvo R&P?

I'll update the thread with my rural country road gas mileage commute to see if any improvements normally I average 22mpg.

But now I have a question...while I can go to the states and get it at Walmart, is there anything within that same price range as valvo r&p that I can get here in canada with the same characteristic? I've heard liqui moly molygen is a decent alternative and I have used it in an 04 impala ss and saw a 2 mpg overall increase in mileage as well as my engine not having to work as hard idling based on the vacuum/boost gauge but would prefer something in the valvo R&P price range since I do 5k mile oci's...please don't tell me to get Castrol or mobil one or pennzoil...while my stang doesn't burn oil those oils always burned the most out of any brand I've tried in my other cars...I could probably Start another thread listing the oils that burned the most and least in my 2016 golf 1.8 tsi

Is the optimal lubricity finger test performed Hot or Cold?
 
On the new engine I've only run 5w30

And exactly bud...I should also note that in other vehicles I've had, those 3 brands burned the most quantity of oil during the intervals in my other former vehicles as well, 2002 nissan altima 3.5, 1994 mustang gt, 1998 acura 1.6 el, 2004 impala ss, 2004 audi a4 1.8T and a 1988 thunderbird turbocoupe don't get me wrong I tried all those oils based on oil analysis reports from this site as a lurker...if I developed a leak or if pcv valve went bad then I wouldn't count that oil interval with that oil...I tried again with the next interval

And yeah if I can get R&P here in Chinada then why not...will it be same price? Obviously not our currency is an embarrassment compared to the almighty u.s dollar, but I'd rather not spend 70-80 bucks for molygen and a filter unless there's an affordable alternative that's readily available

And I ain't no scientist, I have a general basic understanding of oil compared to a lot of people on this forum...just going by what makes sense to me...so yes in my head it's slippery

Is the optimal lubricity finger test performed Hot or Cold?
i wouldn't say hot but definitely wait 20-30min or so after shutdown, and also while stone cold
 
Btw I should add...I legitimately was not expecting 26.7 mpg...I thought I'd see a 1 or 2 mpg improvement max
 
2011 ford mustang

Allow me to expose a few horrendous errors in your story ...

- The Cyclone engines (3.3, 3.5, 3.7) in n/a form do not have lifters. They are DAMB (direct acting mechanical bucket; the cam lobes ride right over the bucket and use shims to adjust clearance). Hence, there's no hydraulic lifter to make any noise. It would be impossible for you to have "lifter tick" from an engine that doesn't even have lifters (the implication being that somehow the oil you rave about quiets the hydraulic lifters).

- The 3.7L engine in the Mustang is longitudinally mounted. In the F150 and Mustang (traditional engine alignment) the water pumps are EXTERNAL for the Cyclone applications. Meaning there's no way you could have had an internal water pump leak that ruined your rod bearings. Only the transverse applications (Taurus; Explorer; Flex; etc) got the internal water pump. Your 3.7L Mustang engine cannot have been damaged from coolant-contaminated oil from a water pump.
See this video at the 8:00 mark ...


You are free to express yourself in any manner which does not violate our site rules.
But I find your story very, very hard to believe.
 
3.7 in a mustang leaking coolant into the crankcase REALLY ?
Very well documented issue...they leak internally, regardless of it being an internal chain driven pump on transverse cars or external serpentine belt driven pump on longitudinal cars...very well known nowadays to just change it out every 60k miles as preventative maintenance... infact the guy I bought my replacement engine from had the exact same thing happen on his 3.7 before he had it rebuilt
 
Allow me to expose a few horrendous errors in your story ...

- The Cyclone engines (3.3, 3.5, 3.7) in n/a form do not have lifters. They are DAMB (direct acting mechanical bucket; the cam lobes ride right over the bucket and use shims to adjust clearance). Hence, there's no hydraulic lifter to make any noise. It would be impossible for you to have "lifter tick" from an engine that doesn't even have lifters (the implication being that somehow the oil you rave about quiets the hydraulic lifters).

- The 3.7L engine in the Mustang is longitudinally mounted. In the F150 and Mustang (traditional engine alignment) the water pumps are EXTERNAL for the Cyclone applications. Meaning there's no way you could have had an internal water pump leak that ruined your rod bearings. Only the transverse applications (Taurus; Explorer; Flex; etc) got the internal water pump. Your 3.7L Mustang engine cannot have been damaged from coolant-contaminated oil from a water pump.
See this video at the 8:00 mark ...


You are free to express yourself in any manner which does not violate our site rules.
But I find your story very, very hard to believe.

I actually know it's buckets and not lifters...I just call it lifter tick because that's what it pretty much sounds like EXCUSE ME MR LET ME EDUCATE THE YOUNG...and the coolant leaking internally is a very well documented issue regardless of internal or external pump. We even tore down the old engine and confirmed the leak came from the waterpump INTERNALLY and not headgasket or a crack in the block somewhere. Get off your high horse.
 
Sorry but you are misinformed !
Very well documented issue...they leak internally, regardless of it being an internal chain driven pump on transverse cars or external serpentine belt driven pump on longitudinal cars...very well known nowadays to just change it out every 60k miles as preventative maintenance... infact the guy I bought my replacement engine from had the exact same thing happen on his 3.7 before he had it rebuilt
 
Sorry but you are misinformed !
So you're telling me based on the analysis of not only mine...a mere hobbyist, but my uncle who's been a mechanic for 40 years and my cousin who's been a mechanic for 12, both of whom who have been repairing cars and rebuilding engines and have done a few waterpumps on 3.7 stangs, f150's with the external waterpump as well as transverse who have saved their customers potentially $1200+ dollars on a rebuild or diff engine simply because they noticed the oil getting a little milky during the oil change are wrong? And after replacing waterpump the oil was not milky at the next oci after replacing the water pump? I think you are misinformed bud
 
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