I went to a drain & fill with MaxLife every 20k and it helped the cold performance of the transmission tremendously. But that’s the 4EAT, I’ve never done the CVT like you have. I’m on older, less bougie Subies than you 
Subaru Wheel Bearing?
- Thread starter HowAboutThis
- Start date
She had a 2006 that was bulletproof. Put about 250k on it. That transmission and those diffs liked fresh fluid every 30k or they'd start binding at low speed into parking spaces and such. Aside from the head gasket at 100k on that one, not one issue. Everything was original that wasn't a wear item (like brakes). I liked that car.I went to a drain & fill with MaxLife every 20k and it helped the cold performance of the transmission tremendously. But that’s the 4EAT, I’ve never done the CVT like you have. I’m on older, less bougie Subies than you
Both rear bearings diagnosed as bad. They recommended an alignment after (has never had one) so the total will be around $1300. I guess not awful. But I hate cars. Lol
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2021
- Messages
- 191
It's always good to be pro active when you think you have a problem.Its better to fix before more seriously problems come up.If your women learns this,that makes your job easier.A great tool to own is a infrared thermometer.You can isolate and check,hot brakes that drag,bearings,low air pressure,even tire alignment. An interesting tool,I.M.O,I got mine at Napa
Sounds like a wheel bearing. My dad had a chevy cavalier and it droned. Wheel bearing replaced and all was well.
Yeah, I was 90% certain given the sound. But it was barely audible above the road noise. Service advisor said the tech didn't hear it when driving the car but it was obvious with his stethoscope near the bearing on the rack. My ears are amazing I guess
Parts took a while to arrive. Then one bearing and the backing plates arrived. And the next bearing randomly arrived in a different shipment. They seemed confused. So delayed the repair by a couple days. From what I've gathered the TSB I originally found had been updated and our car also required the backing plates replaced (I found a revised TSB). The service department knew so that's why they were more spendy. Moral of the story: sometimes the dealer is more expensive...but would an independent have replaced the backing plates? I don't know. I'm tempted to call and see, however. Parts were priced within a few bucks I could've purchased for, labor was about 4 hours. Seems reasonable to me. And it's SO QUIET now on the interstate. I think it was sneaking up on us and until the growling started didn't realize they were loud.
On the last one I did, it was cheaper to keep replacing aftermarket bearings under warranty than to also replace the backing plate. At least for a DIY situation.
Last edited:
I’m glad yours is fixed. I had a highly-thought-of but not Subaru-specific suspension shop replace one rear bearing, and the sound did not go away. Drove an hour+ to the closest indie Subaru shop, and they think it’s the “transfer bearing“ or whatever hangs off the rear of the tranny toward the driveshaft. repair involves tranny removal. Gulp. If I do the clutch “while the tranny is off” we’re nearing $3k. There’s another $1k in other work I wanted to do…maybe time to punt. When was it again that new-car prices were going to come back down to earth????
Ok so for a 26704FJ002 I'm coming up with ~$83
For a 26704FJ012 about the same.
I just keep hearing they're "expensive" and wasn't sure what constituted expensive.
The bearing 28473FL040 seems to be $165 for OEM
If you're in the backing plate years TSB range, read the TSB. I think it is worded that the warped backing plates can cause the howl? Critic linked it again. Check it. Could be a backing plate? At least worth the dealer knowing the backing plates weren't changed if your place only did the bearing.?!?
I should have noted that my Subaru is not in that TSB universe. I personally held a stethoscope to wheel bearings (after initial left-rear fix) and quiet there, of course, the backing plates might not howl on a lift. But the center diff was growling/howling. Maybe not the viscous unit itself, but there are several bearings in that tailpiece, I just wish it weren’t so.
What year/model do you have?
The written inspection from the tech said originally diagnosed as wheel bearing but after replacement will drive and check for other drivetrain noise after bearing replacement. When I asked the service advisor, they said since we're over 100k odds start increasing other drivetrain parts can make similar noises. AWD vehicles...the expense and maintenance of two cars worth of drivetrain.
Tried this (2015 Forester) and they failed exactly after 5 years. Went OEM at the dealership, $378 out the door.
07 OBXT manual 5-sp. stock engine, but modded suspension. i really want a more “adult” car, but don’t know what would keep the grin, while maybe being a more relaxed long-distance cruiser…oh, and affordable.
Last edited:
Similar threads
