Originally Posted By: Drew1987
Thanks all That’s what I was worried about
I’m talking about a 2001 Lexus LS430 i may even trade for my 2002 Es300. Ls has 146,000 already so the “damage” would already be done. This is pure insanity that oil isn’t as protective as it was when 20 years ago. I wish someone would make a catalytic safe additive (not a fan of additives usually) that brings SN to a little better standard.
For my flat tappet smallblock, I use $8.20 per quart Brad Penn Green Oil which is 2000ish ppm zink and great for antiques. I so badly wish there was something at Walmart or one of the candy stores (autozone) that was $20/5qt jug that would be ok, but other than maybe diesel 15w-40, I don’t think there is.
Same with the Lexus (Lexi?) either of them will see 28,000 miles per year with me, $8/quart oil may not seem a lot of money but things add up when your a family of 4 conservatively living in one income. I know that’s personal but it sheds some light on why this maters to me.
I use 89 octane in our Honda 3.5. 91+ in the Lexus 3.0. Always seek out the original equipment but not from the dealer. Like Denso and Aisin. So I’m not cheap, but after I find whats best, I look for the best price on that
Built and run quite a few Chebies. The big issue with cam failure has two sources. 1.) is cam core hardness. 2.) The other is lifter radii and face hardness. If either is off, you will loose the lifter radial geometry (cupping will occur) and then the cam lobe will die.
The 1980's were not kind to GM and they lost many cams. But if yours is not ticking and clattering, you may well have dodged a bullet
Oil will not save a pore cam core ... Never has, never will.
Since you are running OEM spring pressures on a well broken in GM cam, I don't see an issue at all on running a modern modest ZDDP oil. If it were me, I'd run Chevron Delo 400 15W-30 SD (severe duty) which still has over 1,000 PPM ZDDP and is really a robust oil. Available from Amazon any day of the week and will not break the bank. It has good anti-foaming properties and can stand the heat. It is my go-to oil for all flat tappet builds.
The Brad Penn and Joe Gibbs Driven ultra-high ZDDP oils may(?) be needed for high spring pressure steep ramp builds, but not for any factory cam. If you are installing an aftermarket cam(?), you need a proper solution which will include premium lifters. Howards Direct Lube or Crower Sam Saver lifters are the best (made by Johnson). They come with correct lifter radii and face hardness. If an all Howards kit is used, it comes with a 5 year guarantee, and a note about what oil to use