Best oil for a 3rd gen 4Rnr w/261k on it?

I have always run 20W-50 in every vehicle I've ever owned b/c I erroneously believed that heavier oil was a better way to lubricate all motors and I wanted to take the best care of my cars that I could so that (hopefully) my cars would take good care of me. My 4Rnr's seals didn't leak when I got it @ 160k. However, I do not know if in the time I've had it (an additional 100k) its seals have aged/worn/degraded, etc. enough to begin leaking when I do switch "down" to the appropriate (but thinner viscosity) oil. I certainly hope not, but it seems (to me) to be a reasonable fear. Inevitably, I'll find out soon.

I said that heavy oil is (@ best) a temporary solution to leaky seals b/c I've also heard that if one does spot a few fresh drips in their driveway, (where there previously had been none) that one can bump-up a weight or two and it'll get them by until they can make their diagnosis & repair arrangements. This may or may not be accurate info (I dunno; I'm a noob (both to this forum and also to correctly understanding the proper usage of motor oils)) but I've nonetheless anecdotally heard that & read it on multiple occasions, including recently on BITOG.

Since my heavyweight oil usage is bourn of complete ignorance but the best intentions, my current desire to correctly understand is also bourn of the same intent, while hopefully ameliorating my ignorance. I used 20W-50 because I thought I was giving my cars the best oil I could. Clearly I have NOT been accomplishing my intended objective despite my best intentions. So my ultimate question is, what is the very best oil I can finally give my beloved old 4Rnr? If its seals start leaking subsequent to application of the correct oil weight, then that'll unfortunately be the next bridge to cross.

Now that I (more) correctly understand oil viscosities, (i.e.: heavier AIN'T better) I'm leaning hard toward 10W-30 b/c my manual says 10W-30 for climates over 100°F, which I definitely get here, and the 5W-30 (per the manual) is recommended up to 100°F, while protecting better at temps which range far lower than the ones my car is exposed to.

My dilemmas have become certifications & standards (or lack there of, or "meets and exceeds") and specific brands, because it's easy to find 5W-30 that meets or exceeds current API service (this assumes backwards compatibility to "SJ" in my case), ILSAC GF-6, and dexos1 gen3, etc., but finding all those certs in one specific 10W-30 weight with superior seal conditioners and superior varnish & sludge cleaners is proving to be a bit more elusive so far. Here's where we get into "meets or exceeds" without the officially licensed (or paid for) rubber stamp(s).

I'm also leaning toward the Amsoil Signature Series (yeah, I know: 6 quarts will be about $100 US (+tax & shipping)). And if my seals start dripping, I'm quickly gonna need that leftover 1/2 qt. If it's "the best" I really don't care about the price, but if it's snake oil, eff 'em. I haven't read enough forum posts yet to accurately glean if Amsoil is in fact a really really fabulous motor oil, or if it's quality is, shall we say, not quite commensurate with its price, or if it's somewhere in between; however, I can tell from my readings this past week, that among some, Amsoil products do have a stigma (for lack of a better term) associated with their price point vs. perceived performance. And I think there are a few other "designer" oil brands out there that this may also apply to.

M1 HM 10W-30 is missing a few certs, but many ppl here swear by it; M1 HM would be about $24 cheaper for 6 quarts. 24 Bucks is 24 bucks, but not a deciding factor unless all else is equal. However near as I can tell so far, there's no intrinsic way to really know because, per each company's marketing literature (& this seems to be the case for all major motor oil makers): Competitor A's premium product protects X% better than Competitor B's standard product, and vise versa and so on. However M1 HM will likely be my go to if I find too much negative Amsoil feedback.

I know either will serve well, but if one will actually, factually, really, truthfully, honestly serves little better - even if its $24 more - then that's my oil. My old 4Rnr provides 2 very important functions: first, it gets me to work & to my woman, and second, it gets me the hell away from both of those. And after reliably serving more miles than there are between here and the moon, while under less than ideal lubricatory conditions, imo it deserves to finally have whatever constitutes "the good stuff". All I know is this: despite my woeful ignorance, I've only ever wanted to give it the best oil I can, and until 2 weeks ago I thought that was saying to the service rep, "20W-50".

So much for NOT not overthinking, and thank you!
 
a guy at the gas station told me to always run 20W-50 “racing oil” in everything and I’ll never go wrong.

Gas station guys knows it all! :sleep:


Owners’ manual recommends SAE 5W-30 for climates up to 100°F, 10W-30 for climates from 0°F to over 100°F, and API service SJ – Resource Conserving. (Quick aside note: API SJ is relatively “old” in 2023. But if I’ve read & understood correctly, API’s SL & SM are “backwards compatible”. I do not know if services past SM (SN, etc.) are backwards compatible.) Per my manual, the 5W-30 is ‘preferred.’

I'd stick to the manual or close to it at least. 5W-30, 10W-30, 0W-40 or 5W-40. For obvious reason use some API SM or better SN. Or some Euro oil with MB 229.5, VW 504 00 or 502 00, BMW LL-01 or LL-04 approvals. They all provide a minimum HTHS of 3.5 mPas (even if "just" 0W-30). Certainly all nobrainers.
Todays oils are much better than those in the 90s. I don't see any reason to use 10W-30. However you could run a 10W-30 or 10W-40, since you live in SoCal.
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You could try a high mileage formula which might help those seals.
I second this. Maybe try Valvoline HM or M1 HM for some added seal conditioners. Worth a shot as a preventative measure.
 
I have owned a 3rd Gen 4 Runner with a 3.4L (2002) for just nine months. It spent most of its life in CA owned by my aunt, the original owner. When she got too old to drive it any longer, I bought it from her. I know it had good maintenance with either 5W-30 or 10W-30 when she owned it in CA. I moved it to PA and I use 5W-30 SP synthetic blend in it because it gets cold here. I'm now doing a couple of short intervals just to help clean it out a bit. In 3k miles already, during this OCI, using NAPA 5W-30 blend (not high mileage), it has not used any oil. If I were in CA, I would probably use 10W-30 blend in it. I do not plan to change it to use synthetic to prevent any chance of causing leaks to develop. My owner's manual says oil changes should be done at 5k mile intervals. But we have seldom put that many miles on it between oil changes -- which were done every 6-12 months. It now has 169k miles on it.
 
I have owned a 3rd Gen 4 Runner with a 3.4L (2002) for just nine months. It spent most of its life in CA owned by my aunt, the original owner. When she got too old to drive it any longer, I bought it from her. I know it had good maintenance with either 5W-30 or 10W-30 when she owned it in CA. I moved it to PA and I use 5W-30 SP synthetic blend in it because it gets cold here. I'm now doing a couple of short intervals just to help clean it out a bit. In 3k miles already, during this OCI, using NAPA 5W-30 blend (not high mileage), it has not used any oil. If I were in CA, I would probably use 10W-30 blend in it. I do not plan to change it to use synthetic to prevent any chance of causing leaks to develop. My owner's manual says oil changes should be done at 5k mile intervals. But we have seldom put that many miles on it between oil changes -- which were done every 6-12 months. It now has 169k miles on it.
9 months in PA after its life in CA? I would encourage checking your box frame for any rust. A bit of surface rust in some places is normal after 20+ years. But though our trucks are pretty bulletproof in many respects, there are a few Achilles Heels to watch out for. One of those vulnerabilities is an area just in front of the rear wheels, along both frame rails. There are 2 'wedge-shaped' bits of steel framework which protrude below the box rails - 1 on either side. I don't know their proper name but part of the rear suspension attaches to the frame via these wedges and you should be able to partially view them by looking under the rocker panel below your rear doors. But to really examine them well, you've got to get on the ground and get your eyes under there. It is well documented that these areas are particularly susceptible to invasive rust and if left unattended, that cancer can quickly kill your frame and thus your rig. PA salts it roads during winter storms, which will only encourage surface rust to malignantly and rapidly burrow deeper.

There is a fellow on youtube with a series of restoration vids regarding his own 3rd gen. He is particularly thorough and 'OCD' in his work habits (which I very much appreciate) and also produces his videos well. I've no connection to this man or his vids other than that I like the way he works on his truck and have found his videos to be informative and educational. This fellow also lives in an area where winter road salt threatens the integrity of his rig's frame, which is why he said he was doing the work on it.

Enjoy your 'new' truck!

If you're interested, the link to his chassis treatment is

P.S.: Sorry to stray away from topic of oil.
 
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Basic 5W30 syn (or HM) is fine here and won't cause any leaks. 20W50 is WAY overkill...a bazillion higher mileage vehicles on the road using 30 grade oils.

New poster with long-winded first post with thick/thin overtones...

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9 months in PA after its life in CA? I would encourage checking your box frame for any rust. A bit of surface rust in some places is normal after 20+ years. But though our trucks are pretty bulletproof in many respects, there are a few Achilles Heels to watch out for. One of those vulnerabilities is an area just in front of the rear wheels, along both frame rails. There are 2 'wedge-shaped' bits of steel framework which protrude below the box rails - 1 on either side. I don't know their proper name but part of the rear suspension attaches to the frame via these wedges and you should be able to partially view them by looking under the rocker panel below your rear doors. But to really examine them well, you've got to get on the ground and get your eyes under there. It is well documented that these areas are particularly susceptible to invasive rust and if left unattended, that cancer can quickly kill your frame and thus your rig. PA salts it roads during winter storms, which will only encourage surface rust to malignantly and rapidly burrow deeper.

There is a fellow on youtube with a series of restoration vids regarding his own 3rd gen. He is particularly thorough and 'OCD' in his work habits (which I very much appreciate) and also produces his videos well. I've no connection to this man or his vids other than that I like the way he works on his truck and have found his videos to be informative and educational. This fellow also lives in an area where winter road salt threatens the integrity of his rig's frame, which is why he said he was doing the work on it.

Enjoy your 'new' truck!

If you're interested, the link to his chassis treatment is

P.S.: Sorry to stray away from topic of oil.

Thanks. I have checked the frame for rust and have observed none of any significance in this area. The vehicle was in Orange County and not near the ocean. We did not drive in the salt last winter, but instead drove our other vehicles last winter in PA. I did replace the radiator immediately after arriving in PA to avoid the chance that the radiator will spring a leak and mix trans fluid with coolant -- a known problem. I will have the timing belt replaced this month. Otherwise there's not a lot to do to keep this ship sailing. We intend to get another 160k miles out of it no problem.
 
Thanks. I have checked the frame for rust and have observed none of any significance in this area. The vehicle was in Orange County and not near the ocean. We did not drive in the salt last winter, but instead drove our other vehicles last winter in PA. I did replace the radiator immediately after arriving in PA to avoid the chance that the radiator will spring a leak and mix trans fluid with coolant -- a known problem. I will have the timing belt replaced this month. Otherwise there's not a lot to do to keep this ship sailing. We intend to get another 160k miles out of it no problem.
Ahh yes, the dreaded pink milkshake is another Achilles Heel, good deal! You may already know these also, but consider a new water pump & front seals, since they're stripping the front all the way down to the timing belt. Also keep an eye on the lower ball joints; failure there can be sudden and catastrophic. Other than that, tip top! Enjoy the peace, quiet, fresh air, clean water and rolling green hills of PA; I miss those very much!
 
I used 20w50 in my bugs during the summer and 10w30 in the winter. I put 200 K miles on a '88 BMW I bought with a 150K on it already. 20w50 was on the oil cap, but I had to drain it before temps dropped below 10F. I wince when I fill the Camrys with 0W20. Oil that thin provides no margins for eventualities. So far there haven't been any so am I worried over nothing? I had to make a similar leap of faith going from carbs to tuned port electronic fuel injection :cool:
 
2001 TRD PreRunner, bought new. 255k on 5-30 or 10-30 Dino for the first 15 years Castrol mostly, Syn now but ALWAYS 3000-3500 OCI's Mostly on the orange can-o-death but Toyota filters the last 5 years. No rust on frame, been launching boats in FRESH water all her life. C/O timing belt waterpump all belts and hoses every 100K along with trans fluid and power steering juice. Does have the valve cover leak but uses no noticeable oil between OC. Original paint, alternator too. I have started using middle grade gas lately. It always pinged pretty bad when getting on it even slightly but I just tried not to get in that situation. But it is like a new engine on mid grade now, should have switched long ago. Have been dosing it with Lucas fuel treatment for the last year, keep a jug in the truck. Can't hurt I guess. But I have always gotten 250k or more with my Toyotas starting with my 71 Celica (this is not mine but it looked like this one) and I know I didn't maintain them the way I should have back then. Timing chain made an inspection port in that one due to bad budget decision. RIP 8RE lol
 

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At your mileage there is an argument to just keep
doing what your doing because it seems your concern is more theoretical than an actual issue with the performance of the motor with 20w50. That being said, if I were approaching the issue fresh, I would use the 10w30 in that motor.

Oh and I wouldn’t waste money on boutique oil. Good quality synthetic or even semi synthetic, changes regularly with a good quality filter. Not saying AMSOIL is a bad product - far from it - but on that truck I see very little advantage and adding cost needlessly. Good luck.
 
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