Running oil filters multiple OCIs

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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Some of you state that an oil filter gets more efficient as it builds up sediment/dirt/particles/etc., in the filter media, right? "WHAT IF" you leave an oil filter on for multiple OCI's, and it builds up so much that it's going into by-pass mode all the time? How will you know "WHEN" it started going into by-pass? You remove the filter after you have used it 2 multiple OCI's and it's clogged beyond recognition. "WHEN" did it go into by-pass, and how much damage have you done to your engine? You continue to do multiple OCI's on the same filter, it keeps going into by-pass each time.....where do you draw the line on how much internal damage you want to continue doing to your engine?
I have an idea. Change the filter each time you drain the oil and you won't have that worry! Just sayin'......
2 flame suits on!
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No need for the flame suit. You are correct. BUT you are also "chicken-littling" the possibility, IMO, when the choice is made with some logic applied. By following the list I made above (anyone have any other things to add?), you can evaluate each individual situation and apply a little logic to the decision whether to double the filter or not.

Again, one size does not fit all in this situation and anyone on either side of the question that thinks otherwise needs to think about it a bit more.
 
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Jim, I used to beat my chest about my quote in my signature, trying to stuff it down these multi filter users throats. Well, I got educated. So, my philosophy now is, to each his own. BUT, I will NEVER use an oil filter more than once for an OCI. And, that's my prerogative, just as it's TOM, ****, or HARRY'S prerogative to use an oil filter multi times.
My "WHAT IF" reply up yonder holds water, IMO. And, my suggestion was to just change the oil filter at each OCI. Simple. Again, to each their own.
Here's another one of my prerogatives, to only use an oil filter no more than 7.5K miles. And, this current OCI with PP EURO will most likely be changed between 3-5K miles. Why? I think that's long enough to clean my engine for my next OCI.
I will listen to logic. It doesn't mean that I have to agree. I mean, if everyone jumps from a bridge to their demise doesn't mean that I have to follow suit. I am ME, and I CAN think on my own as well.
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My two cars I service, still doing even at this point in life, are easy to change the filter on. New filter every time with fresh clean media is what I want. Graph supports this. I want the least restriction everywhere in the oil filter. The notion large pores fill first is counter intuitive. If it was the case, the Fram Ultra would have it's inner fine layer on the outside and the coarse on the inside. Coarse screens would clog before fine screens, which just isn't so.
 
Blue, it's your prerogative to maintain your car any way you like. Nobody is telling you how to think or what to do but you have already expressed your opinion several times, without, I might add, backing it up with much in the way of empirical or factual evidence. OK we get it, you have that opinion. Screaming it out repeatedly doesn't change anything. If you have better facts, post them.
 
Look at it another way, there are people doing 10-15k OCIs and they leave the same filter on for that entire time. So what's the difference if you're doing 5-7.5k intervals and only changing the filter every other change?
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
My two cars I service, still doing even at this point in life, are easy to change the filter on. New filter every time with fresh clean media is what I want. Graph supports this. I want the least restriction everywhere in the oil filter. The notion large pores fill first is counter intuitive. If it was the case, the Fram Ultra would have it's inner fine layer on the outside and the coarse on the inside. Coarse screens would clog before fine screens, which just isn't so.


Graph does NOT support this! One snippet, where all the parameters are not known, is not the whole picture.

One thing we do know is that the test artificially fed high amounts of contaminants to load the filter quickly. That isn't anything close to the real world, unless your real world involves dumping dirt into your crankcase or running without an air filter in the Sahara Desert for 5,000 miles. You are WAY overestimating the amount of contamination a normal engine in the real world generates. A good wearing engine is a product of it's design and the lubricant. Modern engines, especially those with roller cams and no timing chains, once broken in, generate very little in the way of wear metals. An average oil filter can hold 16-18 grams of material before it reaches a high enough differential pressure that it begins to bypass often. If 18 grams of metal, about 6/10s of an ounce, came from various parts in your engine over a normal OCI, you'd have other things to worry about besides whether your oil filter was full.

Much, most, of what a filter catches is other stuff... dust that gets in through the intake somehow, carbon or soot, and oxidation residue. If you eliminate/minimize what comes in thru the intake, and eliminate the oxidation residue part by using a good oil and having a good driving routine, all you have left are combustion byproducts like carbon and soot (in a diesel). These can be minimized as well and the efficient combustion of a modern EFI engine does that... especially if the owner uses good fuel that leaves few deposits or ash. So when you get right down to it, there is very little for the oil filter to do with a modern EFI engine... if the outside inputs are low... and that's why oil filters can last a long time. Different deal on old school engines.

I have asked for an average engine contaminant generation rate from various industry people and they don't have one. If it's ever been tested, it would be specific to one engine in a particular situation. The only answer I get is "low" with the caveat that "low" only applies to engines with efficient air filtration systems. Almost everyone agrees that an efficient air filtration system is the most important part of controlling contamination inputs. Anything that comes into the combustion chamber is going to get into the oil. Those particles will cause wear, which creates more particles and an endless chain of wear is begun. In many ways, the air filter is the most important part of having clean oil, low wear and long life. An efficient oil filter comes into play more when there are high contamination rates from outside sources...such as from an inefficient or defective air filtration system.

On top of that some oil filters have higher than average capacity. As I said, from the specs I've gathered, the average sized oil filter can hold 16-18 grams. Some premium (syn) filters can hold around 30 grams before nearing their bypass limit. If you want to know how much the filter you use can hold, ask the mfr.

As to FCI recommendations, most of them are based on a CYA. Filter mfrs want the engine manufacturer to take responsibility for that. If you see a 3K interval, there is usually a caveat nearby that says "or according to the OEM recommendation." A "worst case" situation is envisioned and then it's given a safety factor (in industry typically X2 or X3) and there you have it... CYA.
 
Originally Posted By: Patman
Look at it another way, there are people doing 10-15k OCIs and they leave the same filter on for that entire time. So what's the difference if you're doing 5-7.5k intervals and only changing the filter every other change?


Good point!

Many premium filters now have been validated to higher 10-15K intervals and advertise such on their boxes (many caveats, of course). If they advertise that, you can bet it's a strong theory that there is a 2x to 3x safety factor involved. Many oils are up to that 10-15K interval too. That's what I do, incidentally. I run no less than 10K and up to 15K on my two passenger cars (validated by UOA). At that point, oil and filter get changed. I would hesitate to run a filter 30K without my old diff-pressure gauge setup installed (I don't feel like building another one). In the past I also had the 10-15K oil particle tested and contamination was low. The only thing I wish I could arrange is to get filters tested for restriction at the end of their interval. Believe me, I have asked! The oil filter mfrs do it routinely in house and I think that's part of how they determine their FCI recommendations and safety factors. I was able to talk them into releasing the general trends but overall, they would rather not have you or I pushing their safety factors.... yahoos that we are!
 
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
My two cars I service, still doing even at this point in life, are easy to change the filter on. New filter every time with fresh clean media is what I want. Graph supports this. I want the least restriction everywhere in the oil filter. The notion large pores fill first is counter intuitive. If it was the case, the Fram Ultra would have it's inner fine layer on the outside and the coarse on the inside. Coarse screens would clog before fine screens, which just isn't so.


Graph does NOT support this! One snippet, where all the parameters are not known, is not the whole picture.

One thing we do know is that the test artificially fed high amounts of contaminants to load the filter quickly. That isn't anything close to the real world, unless your real world involves dumping dirt into your crankcase or running without an air filter in the Sahara Desert for 5,000 miles. You are WAY overestimating the amount of contamination a normal engine in the real world generates. A good wearing engine is a product of it's design and the lubricant. Modern engines, especially those with roller cams and no timing chains, once broken in, generate very little in the way of wear metals. An average oil filter can hold 16-18 grams of material before it reaches a high enough differential pressure that it begins to bypass often. If 18 grams of metal, about 6/10s of an ounce, came from various parts in your engine over a normal OCI, you'd have other things to worry about besides whether your oil filter was full.

Much, most, of what a filter catches is other stuff... dust that gets in through the intake somehow, carbon or soot, and oxidation residue. If you eliminate/minimize what comes in thru the intake, and eliminate the oxidation residue part by using a good oil and having a good driving routine, all you have left are combustion byproducts like carbon and soot (in a diesel). These can be minimized as well and the efficient combustion of a modern EFI engine does that... especially if the owner uses good fuel that leaves few deposits or ash. So when you get right down to it, there is very little for the oil filter to do with a modern EFI engine... if the outside inputs are low... and that's why oil filters can last a long time. Different deal on old school engines.

I have asked for an average engine contaminant generation rate from various industry people and they don't have one. If it's ever been tested, it would be specific to one engine in a particular situation. The only answer I get is "low" with the caveat that "low" only applies to engines with efficient air filtration systems. Almost everyone agrees that an efficient air filtration system is the most important part of controlling contamination inputs. Anything that comes into the combustion chamber is going to get into the oil. Those particles will cause wear, which creates more particles and an endless chain of wear is begun. In many ways, the air filter is the most important part of having clean oil, low wear and long life. An efficient oil filter comes into play more when there are high contamination rates from outside sources...such as from an inefficient or defective air filtration system.

On top of that some oil filters have higher than average capacity. As I said, from the specs I've gathered, the average sized oil filter can hold 16-18 grams. Some premium (syn) filters can hold around 30 grams before nearing their bypass limit. If you want to know how much the filter you use can hold, ask the mfr.

As to FCI recommendations, most of them are based on a CYA. Filter mfrs want the engine manufacturer to take responsibility for that. If you see a 3K interval, there is usually a caveat nearby that says "or according to the OEM recommendation." A "worst case" situation is envisioned and then it's given a safety factor (in industry typically X2 or X3) and there you have it... CYA.


"You are WAY overestimating the amount of contamination a normal engine in the real world generates."

Not really, what you said above about the multiple pass test is what I have also been saying for a couple years or more, with no takers. Motorking from Fram has stated one gram per thousand miles is an average contamination value. That is a completely different use situation than the multi pass test represents. The multi pass test has to be done in some kind of cost and time frame is my take on it, and the values do represent something tested, but not like real world use unless one is driving in a dust storm without an air filter. I also hold an unpopular view that a cellulose synthetic blend is better than full synthetic because cellulose, being made from wood fibers, is a far finer filter over time. Synthetic fibers don't absorb, cellulose does. Cellulose even traps water molecules.
 
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
Originally Posted By: goodtimes
My two cars I service, still doing even at this point in life, are easy to change the filter on. New filter every time with fresh clean media is what I want. Graph supports this. I want the least restriction everywhere in the oil filter. The notion large pores fill first is counter intuitive. If it was the case, the Fram Ultra would have it's inner fine layer on the outside and the coarse on the inside. Coarse screens would clog before fine screens, which just isn't so.


Graph does NOT support this! One snippet, where all the parameters are not known, is not the whole picture.

One thing we do know is that the test artificially fed high amounts of contaminants to load the filter quickly. That isn't anything close to the real world, unless your real world involves dumping dirt into your crankcase or running without an air filter in the Sahara Desert for 5,000 miles. You are WAY overestimating the amount of contamination a normal engine in the real world generates. A good wearing engine is a product of it's design and the lubricant. Modern engines, especially those with roller cams and no timing chains, once broken in, generate very little in the way of wear metals. An average oil filter can hold 16-18 grams of material before it reaches a high enough differential pressure that it begins to bypass often. If 18 grams of metal, about 6/10s of an ounce, came from various parts in your engine over a normal OCI, you'd have other things to worry about besides whether your oil filter was full.

Much, most, of what a filter catches is other stuff... dust that gets in through the intake somehow, carbon or soot, and oxidation residue. If you eliminate/minimize what comes in thru the intake, and eliminate the oxidation residue part by using a good oil and having a good driving routine, all you have left are combustion byproducts like carbon and soot (in a diesel). These can be minimized as well and the efficient combustion of a modern EFI engine does that... especially if the owner uses good fuel that leaves few deposits or ash. So when you get right down to it, there is very little for the oil filter to do with a modern EFI engine... if the outside inputs are low... and that's why oil filters can last a long time. Different deal on old school engines.

I have asked for an average engine contaminant generation rate from various industry people and they don't have one. If it's ever been tested, it would be specific to one engine in a particular situation. The only answer I get is "low" with the caveat that "low" only applies to engines with efficient air filtration systems. Almost everyone agrees that an efficient air filtration system is the most important part of controlling contamination inputs. Anything that comes into the combustion chamber is going to get into the oil. Those particles will cause wear, which creates more particles and an endless chain of wear is begun. In many ways, the air filter is the most important part of having clean oil, low wear and long life. An efficient oil filter comes into play more when there are high contamination rates from outside sources...such as from an inefficient or defective air filtration system.

On top of that some oil filters have higher than average capacity. As I said, from the specs I've gathered, the average sized oil filter can hold 16-18 grams. Some premium (syn) filters can hold around 30 grams before nearing their bypass limit. If you want to know how much the filter you use can hold, ask the mfr.

As to FCI recommendations, most of them are based on a CYA. Filter mfrs want the engine manufacturer to take responsibility for that. If you see a 3K interval, there is usually a caveat nearby that says "or according to the OEM recommendation." A "worst case" situation is envisioned and then it's given a safety factor (in industry typically X2 or X3) and there you have it... CYA.


"You are WAY overestimating the amount of contamination a normal engine in the real world generates."

Not really, what you said above about the multiple pass test is what I have also been saying for a couple years or more, with no takers. Motorking from Fram has stated one gram per thousand miles is an average contamination value. That is a completely different use situation than the multi pass test represents. The multi pass test has to be done in some kind of cost and time frame is my take on it, and the values do represent something tested, but not like real world use unless one is driving in a dust storm without an air filter. I also hold an unpopular view that a cellulose synthetic blend is better than full synthetic because cellulose, being made from wood fibers, is a far finer filter over time. Synthetic fibers don't absorb, cellulose does. Cellulose even traps water molecules.


Yep, I think I have been quoting the 1 gram/1000 mile for ten years or so. Not sure where I got it. I think from Parker Filtration. I think many engines are far less than that, especially if you consider the statistic may apply more to older engines than today's. BUT using that number, it would take 16,000 miles for the average engine to plug an average filter. With that spec, once you know the capacity of YOUR filter, you could estimate a useful FCI with whatever safety factor you deem appropriate. For my late Ford it was over 30K miles... not that I would have gone that far. Well, I might have after I installed a 3 micron bypass system on it, but that turns this into an apples and oranges thing.

I agree with you about the cellulose media... and it shouldn't be popular, unpopular or a "viewpoint" at all. It's a FACT, making it worth consideration. I considered it in the evaluations for my personal filter choices but concluded since my driving cycle is such that the cars are almost never short hopped, I don't need that capability. I would rather have a more durable, freer-flowing media (flows better with a higher efficiency rating... plus I am somewhat obsessed about cold start bypassing). Because I live in the boondocks, my rigs are almost never run less than 10 miles at every start (@55-60mph)... usually lots more. So they are almost always run long enough to evaporate moisture by heat. May not be true of everyone, so a cellulose media (or a blend) would be a choice worth considering for some folks.
 
If a cellulous filter "absorbes water" on short trips, the first time the engine is driven a decent distance at full operating temperature, all the moisture absorbed in the filter is going to be "boiled off" and removed. Result is wavey pleats.

And the media can only hold so much moisture, which probably isn't much anyway. So thinking cellulous based media is some magic "water trap" for an often short tripped car is only hopeful thinking.

Full synthetic media is superior to cellulous for many reasons - much info out there discussing that.
 
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
If a cellulous filter "absorbes water" on short trips, the first time the engine is driven a decent distance at full operating temperature, all the moisture absorbed in the filter is going to be "boiled off" and removed. Result is wavey pleats.

And the media can only hold so much moisture, which probably isn't much anyway. So thinking cellulous based media is some magic "water trap" for an often short tripped car is only hopeful thinking.

Full synthetic media is superior to cellulous for many reasons - much info out there discussing that.


Not sure I agree but I'd have to reread some materials I do recall the Parker bypass filters, cellulose, were intended to absorb a certain amount of moisture, but they are a VERY dense media akin to a roll of TP. A thin pleated media certainly couldn't carry much, I guess. So I guess the principle is true, but the effect is insignificant overall. Fair statement?
 
I don't see how cellulose media could hold moisture forever if 200+ F oil was going through it for a long period of time. I'd think any absorbed water would be removed and gas out just like any other moisture inside the motor, and eventually get swept out through the PVC system.

A remote bypass filter may trap moisture better due to much less flow, and therefore probably don't run quite as hot as the oil going through a full flow filter.
 
The issue of holding water in thin media isn't the only point. If the temp boils the water away it doesn't change the fact before the oil temp does that, like in cold weather, the cellulose is absorbing whatever water it can and keeps that much water from the engine.
The point for me is more the difference between synthetic and wood fibers in absorbing contaminants and particles. Particles don't go into synthetic fibers, they slide over them. With wood cells it is not the same. I don't think anything humans can make will ever equal what is going on in a common yard weed.
I am not knocking one kind of filter or the other, either kind or a blend, like most are now anyway, works well enough for me.
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