Opinions on this mix/blend?

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Originally Posted By: Shannow
Originally Posted By: Linctex
People do "franken-brews" all the time - I have NEVER heard of a single negative outcome.

Here you go
http://papers.sae.org/932831/
I personally think its' likely that most of us don't push the extremes of the "W" rating that we hear of relatively few.


I grew up in North Dakota. It gets cold there. REALLY COLD.

Never heard of an "oil gelling" issue due to "mixing".
Oil gelling because it was old, dirty & black - YES. Mixing? No.
 
As I've said before, in order for mixing to be at best benign, everything has to work at least proportionally and cumulatively, in all circumstances.

To say that this will occur in every instance is a bit of a stretch...

http://portallubes.com.br/wp-content/uploads/2016/06/14-Charles-Dustman-EVONIK.pdf

(It's got a 2015 head count, so must be reasonably fresh presentation at least)

Look at the wildly disparate results with basestock, VII and DI packages with different PPDs in the preso and tell me HOW you can guarantee that there will never be a problem taking two fully formulated lubricants, and putting them together.

Again, likely no problem, we don't likely start our cars at the limits of pumpability on most days, so can probably get away with it nearly every time.

And if it rattles a bit longer this morning than yesterday, what's the cumulative impact on a couple of really cold days versus 200,000 miles and 20,000 starts at remperatures that aren't pushing the boundaries.
 
My brews were for beaters when I was trying to consolidate widow and orphan quarts of oil. I don't see any real issue as others mentioned, but in a vehicle which I don't categorize as a beater I don't mix different brands or grades of oil.
 
Originally Posted By: bbhero
Good call demarpaint. That's spot on.


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The probability of mixing M1 0W40 and PP 0W20 and having a problem is very low. If there is a problem, the effects seem to be in the reduction of cold starting ability, therefore summer or warm climates are safer in this regard.

But M1 0w40 FS is a great oil, and a very thin 40 grade, if your car calls for a 5W30 then I would have no problem running M1 0W40. It's no boat anchor oil. Right now I'm running M1 5w30, my previous fill was SynPower 0W40, they both worked fine for me.
 
Originally Posted By: jdavis
Wouldn't it make sense to use it up in an oil change soon as it's a 0w? Why wait until summer to do the 0w-40 run?
0w doesn't mean its thinner than a 5 w at temps above -20C. The 40 with its attendant high HTHS will be MUCH more viscous in situ than a comparable 30 or 20.

RULE:

Forget the W rating unless you regularly start and drive unaided at temps below -20C.

For easy "Normal" cold winter starts, say -10 to zero C, look for a high VI and a low KV40 In the specs.
 
The VI is 186 …

The HTHS is only 3.6 so it’s not a thick 40 when up and running …

Mobil posts MRV readings on the 0W’s …
 
How do you tell the widow from the orphan?

So wife walks up and asked husband what he’s doing on the patio - says hunting flies = got two males and two females …
She says how do you know ? He said two were on that beer can and two were on that iPhone …
wink.gif
 
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