Oil suggestions for 2013 Volvo S80 3.2l
- Thread starter himemsys
- Start date
No idea what those approvals mean, but not using the right oil in some VW engines can cause damage to the cam driving the fuel pump. If the manual calls for a specific approval, why would you use an oil that doesn't have it? Oil is cheap, engine work isn't.
Two reasons: 1) It's hard to find A5/B5 and 2) often there are ACEA approvals that overlap or supersede. I just don't understand them well enough at this point. So maybe ACEA C3 would be considered a better approval that still meets A5/B5, for example.
I'm not sure if the QSFS 5w40 Euro meets A5/B5 but if it does that's what I'd use. It's very close to a 30 weight and cost only $23 for the 5qt. jug at Walmart. It had been out of stock for awhile at my local WM but is now back in stock. I use this oil in my family members VW Toureg without issues.
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2014
- Messages
- 4,118
A5/B5.... higher SAPS unlike the current API. Guessing they'll be API SJ or SL which is before the additive neutering.
And, there must be a reason why the automaker picks a higher saps oil.
So, I wouldn't use a lower than required lesser SAPS oil.
I'd maybe substitute HTHS for some of the SAPS and would consider some of euro/hdeo 0w40 or 5w40's.
I wouldn't blindly use API SP/GF6.
Not much different than the recommendation here.
And, there must be a reason why the automaker picks a higher saps oil.
So, I wouldn't use a lower than required lesser SAPS oil.
I'd maybe substitute HTHS for some of the SAPS and would consider some of euro/hdeo 0w40 or 5w40's.
I wouldn't blindly use API SP/GF6.
Not much different than the recommendation here.
Land Rover STJLR.03.5003 (Euro oil) vs. API SP (U.S.)?
Have a Range Rover (U.S.) with 2.0L turbo 4 cyl., 2016. The factory required oil from 7 years ago is Land Rover spec STJLR.03.5003. Rather than go to the hassle of ordering Euro oil here in the U.S., any reason I can't substitute a readily-available U.S. synthetic oil rated SP/ILSAC GF-6A/GM...
bobistheoilguy.com
PP Euro L 5w30 was a very good oil in my kids 2011 C30. Out of Castrol and Mobil 1 5w30s it was the only oil that stayed full for the 7k oci. All the others would loose over a qt ea. I would run it or go up to QSFS or M1 Euro 5w40
From what I'm understanding, A5/B5 has a combination of low HTHS (for fuel economy) and high SAPS. But I don't think Castrol EDGE, PP, or PUP would be considered high SAPS oils, right? The low HTHS part seems like a goal to improve fuel economy, not help protect the engine. Or is there more to it than that?
Ok, don’t overthink it, just pick one!
What do you mean, don't overthink it? This is BITOG afterall.
Use an ACEA A3/B4 or MB 229.5 approved oil. Mobil 1 0W40 is an affordable, readily available option. Lots of other good options exist, and you can see what I’ve chosen in mine. (The XC-90 gets HPL this week).
Volvo published a TNN (bulletin) on sludge removal and cleaning for that engine many years ago after dealers (mistakenly) used bulk 5W30. They stipulated an ACEA A3/B4 for those engines.
Viscosity isn’t as important as those long drain approvals. I’ve had great UOAs on my Volvo fleet with the above-mentioned Mobil 1, and those engines are clean inside.
Volvo published a TNN (bulletin) on sludge removal and cleaning for that engine many years ago after dealers (mistakenly) used bulk 5W30. They stipulated an ACEA A3/B4 for those engines.
Viscosity isn’t as important as those long drain approvals. I’ve had great UOAs on my Volvo fleet with the above-mentioned Mobil 1, and those engines are clean inside.
Thank you. Looks like I can also get Castrol Euro A3/B4 in 5W40 and 0W40 for $28.94 per 5qt at Walmart. M1 0W40 is $26.97. Do you believe Pennzoil Euro L 5W30 would work well? Not A3/B4, but C3.
I’d be good with any of those. I’d lean towards the M1 and the Pennzoil since they’re closer to the recommended viscosity. The M1 is a light -40.
Looks like Walmart also has the Castrol Euro A3/B4 in 5W30. More options. I wonder why Volvo recommends Castrol? It's actually on the oil cap. Not a sticker, but part of the mold. Pure marketing agreement?
Yeah I believe they had Castrol as marketing and quality guarantee, before Volvo VCC 95200377 spec existed.
My Swedish "Volvo" workshop poured MOBIL 0W30 SUPER 3000 FORMULA VC last time I let them do an oil change.
Marketing. Castrol makes a good oil. I wouldn't have any problem using the one you suggest.
So I went to pick the oil up and noticed the Castrol 5W30 A3/B4 had an API rating of SL while their 5W/40 A3/B4 was API SP. I went to the M1 0W40 and the bottle was SN, so I dug back on the shelf and found a couple in the back that were API SP. I went back and forth between the three in indecision for several minutes before settling on the 5W30. I reasoned the API rating should be irrelevant for an A3/B4 oil and it was the only oil that was in the grade called out for the engine. I'm sure I couldn't have gone wrong with any of those options and they will be there for future oil changes too. I was real curious about doing VOAs on the SP-rated Castrol and M1 oils though.
In the process of doing the first oil change on this car. It's certainly the most unique oil change I've ever done!
- T27 torx bit for taking the 8 screws holding the skidplate off.
- 36mm socket with long extension for taking the filter out. As for the filter, its one of those open pleat ones that you have to order online because no one local carries them. I wanted a Fram Ultra, but the ship time was too long to get it before this weekend, so I got the Fram Tough Guard. The box says it's rated for 10k miles even though the normal Tough Guard enclosed filters are rated 15k. No problem, we'll probably be going 5k on this first oil change.
- To get to the filter, you must remove the passenger headlight, then take the power steering reservoir off its holder and shove it into the space where the headlight was. Fortunately, the headlight is held in by two metal brackets that simply slide out. Seriously, a 1 minute job.
- I got two samples from the oil draining. One to Blackstone so I can get current Universal Averages. One to Oil Analyzers. The oil seemed extremely watery. I wonder if whoever did the last oil change used 20 grade. Yikes!
- going to put in Castrol Euro Car 5W30 A3/B4. Capacity is 7.18qts. I'll start with 6 qts and see where it's at on the dipstick. I like to know how many qts get to the low mark and how many quarts it takes to get to the high mark.
- the dipstick is only 16mm from the low mark to the high mark. Every car I've had has been in the 17-18mm range. Probably because of the huge sump. It's nearly as wide as the car! So losing a lot of oil will only show a small decrease on the dipstick due to sump dimensions.
I think I've let enough drain out. Time to go replace the filter and fill her up.
edit: Good Lord! After 45 minutes there was still a significant amount draining. I'm giving it at least 90 minutes. And yes, the oil was hot when I started draining.
- T27 torx bit for taking the 8 screws holding the skidplate off.
- 36mm socket with long extension for taking the filter out. As for the filter, its one of those open pleat ones that you have to order online because no one local carries them. I wanted a Fram Ultra, but the ship time was too long to get it before this weekend, so I got the Fram Tough Guard. The box says it's rated for 10k miles even though the normal Tough Guard enclosed filters are rated 15k. No problem, we'll probably be going 5k on this first oil change.
- To get to the filter, you must remove the passenger headlight, then take the power steering reservoir off its holder and shove it into the space where the headlight was. Fortunately, the headlight is held in by two metal brackets that simply slide out. Seriously, a 1 minute job.
- I got two samples from the oil draining. One to Blackstone so I can get current Universal Averages. One to Oil Analyzers. The oil seemed extremely watery. I wonder if whoever did the last oil change used 20 grade. Yikes!
- going to put in Castrol Euro Car 5W30 A3/B4. Capacity is 7.18qts. I'll start with 6 qts and see where it's at on the dipstick. I like to know how many qts get to the low mark and how many quarts it takes to get to the high mark.
- the dipstick is only 16mm from the low mark to the high mark. Every car I've had has been in the 17-18mm range. Probably because of the huge sump. It's nearly as wide as the car! So losing a lot of oil will only show a small decrease on the dipstick due to sump dimensions.
I think I've let enough drain out. Time to go replace the filter and fill her up.
edit: Good Lord! After 45 minutes there was still a significant amount draining. I'm giving it at least 90 minutes. And yes, the oil was hot when I started draining.
Last edited:
Similar threads
