I've got a 1998 Chevy Prizm with 78,000 miles, does anyone prefer a certain oil filter for the auto rx treatment? I'm going to run Formula Shell motor oil and was thinking a Napa pro select filter. Thanks
Oil filter for auto rx application
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Any brand oil filter will work. When I did my ARX treatment I used a WIX and there was a decent amount of crud trapped inside when I cut the filter open.
Napa ProSelect sounds like a very good choice.
Will a Pure One clog too quickly?
Thanks,
Frank D
Thanks,
Frank D
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Any filter will clog too quickly if you've got too much liberated stuff that's big enough to be trapped. There are Auto-Rx users that have filters full of goo due to massive softer sludge getting liquefied. Even if you do saturate the filter in too short a time (2.5k) ..you're removing the sump at that time ..so ..
Use a P1 if you so desire. I'd not bother using it due to the cost and the duration of use. But if that doesn't bother you, go ahead and use it.
Use a P1 if you so desire. I'd not bother using it due to the cost and the duration of use. But if that doesn't bother you, go ahead and use it.
I'd skip the Pure One, finer filtration could increase the risk of clogging. Almost anything on the cheap side will do - I used Purolater on our vehicles.
Is there anything in Auto-RX that would get caught up in the finer media of the P1 or Bosch oil filters? I would think that there is not, but I am not sure. The P1 and Bosch filters I believe are the same thing. Bosch calls it filtech media or whatever and that I believe is just P1's media. I am planning on using the Bosch filters for my ARX cycles because I can get them on sale right now at Autozone with Castrol GTX. I see no reason to not use P1 if you want. I would think that as long as you are not clogging the filter, you would actually want better filtration for your ARX treatments. May want to change it half way through the cycles like are directed with the sludge application for ARX. I just plan on running the 2500/3000 two times. Not changing the filter until I change the oil.
Correct me if I'm wrong but if you are doing a cleaning to get the crud out of your engine, would you not want the filter to get the crud out of your engine?
Just follow me on this one...
If the cleaner removes crud from the engine parts, it will deposit that crud in the oil.
The oil (with the crud) will pass into the filter. The filter should remove the crud so that it does not re-deposit on another part of the engine.
The oil is free to pass through the engine again and pick up more crud... What's the point in cleaning the engine if the same crud keeps going around and around?
To me, getting a high end filter to remove the crud that was removed from the oil makes sense. However, if you are worried about clogging the filter, replace the filter half way through the cleaning phase and half way through the rinse phase.
Just follow me on this one...
If the cleaner removes crud from the engine parts, it will deposit that crud in the oil.
The oil (with the crud) will pass into the filter. The filter should remove the crud so that it does not re-deposit on another part of the engine.
The oil is free to pass through the engine again and pick up more crud... What's the point in cleaning the engine if the same crud keeps going around and around?
To me, getting a high end filter to remove the crud that was removed from the oil makes sense. However, if you are worried about clogging the filter, replace the filter half way through the cleaning phase and half way through the rinse phase.
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Okay, Craftsman ..let's think about this a little.
First, your Auto-Rx treatment isn't in the sump that long.
Second, most filters have a similar holding capacity. At that point they go into increasing levels of pressure differential depending on viscosity and eventually bypass.
If Auto-Rx is liberating more material than the average filter can hold ..what difference does it make whether you plug it with finer particles or (whatever)?? OTOH, if you're under the holding capacity of the filter, why bother spending 2 or 3 times the cost when you're dumping the sump in such a short time anyway.
Sure, I go with the changing of filter early if you think that they're plugged. But they would be plugged whether fine or cheap ..so there's no real gain with spending the extra money on something like P1, M1, or EaO.
First, your Auto-Rx treatment isn't in the sump that long.
Second, most filters have a similar holding capacity. At that point they go into increasing levels of pressure differential depending on viscosity and eventually bypass.
If Auto-Rx is liberating more material than the average filter can hold ..what difference does it make whether you plug it with finer particles or (whatever)?? OTOH, if you're under the holding capacity of the filter, why bother spending 2 or 3 times the cost when you're dumping the sump in such a short time anyway.
Sure, I go with the changing of filter early if you think that they're plugged. But they would be plugged whether fine or cheap ..so there's no real gain with spending the extra money on something like P1, M1, or EaO.
I'm assuming that any of the crud released from the cleaning will also have fine grit since people who have cut their filters open report this grit of various sizes.
Granted that the cleaning oil is not in the engine for as long as a normal OCI so there will be limited exposure. But then again you will be releasing a whole lot more grit than the engine would normally see resulting in a much higher crud/grit concentration over a shorter period of time. So, won't the limited exposure argument be counted by the "whole lot of more grit" argument.
Granted that the cleaning oil is not in the engine for as long as a normal OCI so there will be limited exposure. But then again you will be releasing a whole lot more grit than the engine would normally see resulting in a much higher crud/grit concentration over a shorter period of time. So, won't the limited exposure argument be counted by the "whole lot of more grit" argument.
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Hmmm...how can I say this and be correct
Anything you see in any filter has nothing to do with either its fineness or coarseness of filtration.
Use the cheapest one you can get. Advanced Auto Parts has their house brand wich is made by Puralator and Walmart has their Ecore and Autozone has their Chanpion Lab made line wich is also the same as Walmarts so go cheap! Remember it is not on their to re-refine your oil just to catch the stuf Auto-Rx is liquifing! In fact I run the cheapest filters I can find on all the vechiles I own or service and have never had a problem with them! I prefer the Puralator designed one that AAP sells because they are bigger then all the other brands.
I say a Supertech and change half way through.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Hmmm...how can I say this and be correct
Anything you see in any filter has nothing to do with either its fineness or coarseness of filtration.
So, if I understand what you are saying - the stuff that people find in the filter has nothing to do with the size of the particles taken out by the filter?
I always thought the difference between a good filter and a bad filter is the filter's ability to remove particles of a particular size and greater from the oil while allowing the greatest amount of flow.
Hmmm...how can I say this and be correct
So, if I understand what you are saying - the stuff that people find in the filter has nothing to do with the size of the particles taken out by the filter?
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Originally Posted By: Craftsman
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Hmmm...how can I say this and be correct
Anything you see in any filter has nothing to do with either its fineness or coarseness of filtration.
So, if I understand what you are saying - the stuff that people find in the filter has nothing to do with the size of the particles taken out by the filter?
I always thought the difference between a good filter and a bad filter is the filter's ability to remove particles of a particular size and greater from the oil while allowing the greatest amount of flow.
Well, yes, that's true...but the smallest particle detectable by the naked eye is around 40um. If you can see it in an image ..it's surely WAY bigger. Any filter would grab it.
The human hair is about 100um in diameter
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
Hmmm...how can I say this and be correct
So, if I understand what you are saying - the stuff that people find in the filter has nothing to do with the size of the particles taken out by the filter?
Well, yes, that's true...but the smallest particle detectable by the naked eye is around 40um. If you can see it in an image ..it's surely WAY bigger. Any filter would grab it.
The human hair is about 100um in diameter
This is my second ARX treatment in 20k miles. I'm using a M1 filter. Maybe too restrictive, maybe not. I use synthetics full time and figure that by using them and having already done an ARX treatment 20k miles ago, there's not much in the engine that's going to clog the filter. I want the M1 to filter out everything possible. Maybe it'll clog, but so will any other filter. I've only got 103k miles on my car, and this is the 2nd treatment. I've had the valve cover off multiple times and it's always squeaky clean on the top end. Yeah, I can't see the bottom end, put I'll just judge from how the top looks and how the oil drains/looks. Use a quality filter and feel confident. After this, for me, it'll be RLI from now on and I don't feel I will have to flush again due to the cleaning factor of the oil. The only reason I've flushed the engine twice is I bought the car with 76k miles and wanted to make sure the engine was clean. I figure my bearings or rings will fail before I have a sludge problem. My other car is about to get the same treatment and lube.
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