Nokian Entyre 2 dry rot issues and extended warranty

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I am curious if anyone has Nokians and experienced the premature dry rot problem?

I got some mounted recently and didn’t know this was common on pretty much every Nokian



Apparently because of the issue Nokian pretty much replaces them with new Ones at a very low cost, I’m looking for the specifics of the warranty everyone is talking about but haven’t found it.

Thanks
 
EDIT. The Nokian Entyre 2.0 which isn't the tire in the pic, was discontinued a few years ago. It lives on as the Milestar Weathergaurd AS710 Sport which is made in the USA.
 
That's a bummer. I had an enTyre and it was pretty good I thought (then I found RT43's). But that was well before 2021. 2012? 2014? something like that.

I liked Nokian tires, except for the i3's I had. Those sucked royally.
 
That is NOT dry rot - aka weather related cracking.

That crack is the edge of the tread/sidewall junction opening up. The clue? Notice how the crack follows the tread pattern. Also notice that the rubber everywhere else is fine. Dry rot would have lots of cracks - usually above or below that line, but not in both! This is likely an appearance issue - that is, it's not structural and won't cause any issues.

The cause? Something got under the edge of the junction before curing.

The fix? Well, you can't fix that in the cured tire, but in production, you'd change the stitching procedure for the tread.
 
That is NOT dry rot - aka weather related cracking.

That crack is the edge of the tread/sidewall junction opening up. ... This is likely an appearance issue - that is, it's not structural and won't cause any issues.

I thought you had always taught us over the years that this type of crack (at that interface of the sidewall and tread) is a pending tread separation and therefore a potential dangerous condition when driving at highway speeds. It looks like I have to move to the back of the class 😩 ; but I learned something new.

I can just see a tire store employee telling their customer who walks in and not happy; "this is not structural and not an issue so drive on" ?
It seems that would not go down well.
 
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I thought you had always taught us over the years that this type of crack (at that interface of the sidewall and tread) is a pending tread separation and therefore a potential dangerous condition when driving at highway speeds.

What's interesting is that tread separations start at the belt edge and not from the outside in. In some cases, that area will bulge causing a crack. But this crack appears superficial.

It looks like I have to move to the back of the class 😩 ; but I learned something new.

Don't be so hard on yourself. There's lots of contradictory evidence when you try to analyze tire failures and it's not easy to sort that all out. I've looked at 100's of thousands of failed tires, but at first, I stumbled pretty badly.
I can just see a tire store employee telling their customer who walks in and not happy; "this is not structural and not an issue so drive on" ?
It seems that would not go down well.

My experience is that folks at the tire shop level would look at that and do an adjustment right away - particularly if Nokian is generous with how they handle these types of situations - and according to the post, that's what they are doing. The only time a tire shop would balk would be if the tire manufacturer is difficult to work with and doesn't make doing an adjustment worth the effort.

I wonder if this tire is from their new plant and they are still working out the kinks. People who are new to tire production might not know what to look for and walk right past a tire in the middle of the manufacturing process and not notice the issue. I certainly did when I was a newby!
 
That is NOT dry rot - aka weather related cracking.

That crack is the edge of the tread/sidewall junction opening up. The clue? Notice how the crack follows the tread pattern. Also notice that the rubber everywhere else is fine. Dry rot would have lots of cracks - usually above or below that line, but not in both! This is likely an appearance issue - that is, it's not structural and won't cause any issues.

The cause? Something got under the edge of the junction before curing.

The fix? Well, you can't fix that in the cured tire, but in production, you'd change the stitching procedure for the tread.

The strange part is that tires that exhibit this are said to have extremely short tread life’s (like 8000 miles to bald on a 60,000 mile tire)

There were tons of folks with issues apparently which resulted in a special warranty but I’m having trouble getting the warranty text as the link is dead.
 
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