2018 tuned/tracked Golf Sportwagen 100K/4K OCI HPL Euro 5W40 - uh-oh.....

TiGeo

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~100K mi UOA back from sample collected almost a month ago now (BS is slooow). Well, it's not pretty. This HPL Euro 5W40 had ~4K mi including 5x track days over a relatively short time period (~2 mos). These track days saw oil temps in the 270-280 deg F range for 20-45 min at a time. I have gotten better on track and am pushing my car much harder than in the past as evidenced by a consistent drop in my lap times at multiple tracks. I've included my running trend graph in analyte ppm/1K mi to normalize OCI length. Keep in mind this 1.8L turbo is making ~200hp/L.....

Viscosity drop:
The viscosity drop is very concerning, I haven't seen that before with HPL and the flashpoint is high indicating that this isn't fuel but I would wager there is some fuel in there, I really need to get a split sample next time for analysis at a different lab using GC to actually see a real fuel number. I can tell you that based on this UOA, I am NOT pushing OCIs past 4-5K as I had previously said I would do this year...doing the full year/track season/10K miles on a change. Forget that. I'd say this pushed it too far. I'm not going to change after every track weekend either but maybe every other and accept this as a consumable cost. I would even consider just going back to FCP Euro Liquimoly kits that are free and just changing them more regularly b/c the cost is nearly zero...we'll see. Also considered giving Amsoil a shot to throw some positive vibes to @Pablo.



Wear metals:
Terrible. I tend to agree with BS here, the VERY high Si is the likely cause. I have said in previous posts that I have noted dust in my intake hose since changing intakes a few years ago. Previously with a K&N oiled filter with the stock air box as well as a different open-element intake, I saw no issues/clean intake tract and v. low/normal Si levels (prev. elevated Si was direclty related to sealer used in a v. large repair as well as the ~10ppm VOA Si that the HPL oil has). This filter is a dry-flow filter from the intake manufaturer (maybe re-branded AEM?). I have to have a sealing issue/hole so tomorrow I'll be removing my intake and REALLY combing it over for a leak/sealing issue. A few weeks ago I had it off for a different reason and noting the excessive f. dust, cleaned the components thoroughly with Simple Green/soap/water/toliet brush and oiled the filter (even though I know you really don't need/aren't supposed to)....I'm curious how it looks after doing that b/c I believe the oil is a better trap for the fine dust...if the filter is even the issue here. I will get to the bottom of this stat! I have considered taking measurements and buying a K&N that fits my intake....they make a ton of universal fit filters but first need to spend a conserted effort and determining if there is a leak somewhere allowing the dust in/if the dry filter is even an issue. My poor turbo ahahahaha

I did a compression test in the fall with excellent results - 180psi across all 4 cylinders so I don't think this is killing my engine at this point but I do plan on doing them each year when I change my plugs so hopefully no drama after this. Also plan on picking up a cheap boroscope to have a look-see in the cylinders at that time as well.

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While elevated, I don't think it's critical, all things considered. Things like: track days, dust, and the interesting winter temp fluctuations. Had a lot of cold starts on that fill? If so, then wear numbers make sense as a combination of everything at play here...
It is critical when you look at 5 years/100K miles of data....it's way off of the trend. I mean my timing chain tensioner ground out my timing chain cover shedding visible metal into my oil and the values were lower than this.
 
I'm interested in what HPL has to say.
Eh, I don't think there is really anything to say, I beat on it and even the HPL oil just is beyond it's capacity to some extent in this use. It's a fine oil as evidenced by multiple UOAs returning much better results.

Edit. I added the last ~50K mi worth of UOAs since starting to track the car...a variety of oils....
 
Yeah, I think the other site sponsor needs an order with all of this HPL buzz lately. Will you use Signature Series or? It's hard to rule out wear NOT due to Si since it's so elevated on this sample.
 
It is critical when you look at 5 years/100K miles of data....it's way off of the trend. I mean my timing chain tensioner ground out my timing chain cover shedding visible metal into my oil and the values were lower than this.
You're right. I didn't realize the chart is 5 years long, so it definitely accounts for the cold starts in multiple other years.
 
Yeah, I think the other site sponsor needs an order with all of this HPL buzz lately. Will you use Signature Series or? It's hard to rule out wear NOT due to Si since it's so elevated on this sample.
100%, the wear here is related to the Si for sure in my opinion, pretty clear cut relationship there. I'd use whatever the best Euro 40 grade they have is....@Pablo what do you recommend? You basically have a mid-SAPS and full-SAPs blend, I see the mid-SAPS is like a 511 and the full is the typical 502 type.
 
I wonder if you'd be better off with Amsoil SS 0w40 compared to their Euro 0w40? It's more than likely a better oil because that's Amsoil's flagship oil. It has a higher SA though, but so does HPL.
 
That is a LONG run for RACE oil - and all the revs, work, etc that go with racing. I think it did pretty good. Most all good XW-40's drop down to 10-11 cSt. Not sure any oil out there would do a ton better.

I would be curious how one of the DIESEL XW-40's would hold up. Interesting thought.
The Diesel oil should definitely be more shear stable. OP: I vote for Amsoil 5w-40 or 15w-40 CK-4 style. LOL
 
I wonder if you'd be better off with Amsoil SS 0w40 compared to their Euro 0w40? It's more than likely a better oil because that's Amsoil's flagship oil. It has a higher SA though, but so does HPL.
What is "SA"? I see the 0W40 is their "good stuff" vs. their Euro 0W40/5W40. @Pablo what is the difference here?
 
That is a LONG run for RACE oil - and all the revs, work, etc that go with racing. I think it did pretty good. Most all good XW-40's drop down to 10-11 cSt. Not sure any oil out there would do a ton better.

I would be curious how one of the DIESEL XW-40's would hold up. Interesting thought.
I don't disagree, the HPL is v. good I just think with my little turbo 1.8 at ~200hp/L, I just have to settle that you aren't going more than 4 track days on it regardless of overall mileage or time. I think my skill has finally gotten up to the level that I'm pushing it more than in the past...I have plenty of runs of 4 track days and it looked great. I'll take a chill pill haha
 
Running the engine hard and the output is higher than stock. The HDEO is thicker or try a 20W-50 if the start up temps are good for a 20w- oil. The oil viscosity is not a 40wt.
 
If anyone is interested, here's a temperature log of my engine oil, coolant (both before/after radiator), DSG (transmission), and Haldex clutch (awd unit....but I think it's in C not F like the rest). 25 min session at VIR. Ambient around 75 deg F I believe. It's actually fantastic that it's as good as it is...these MK7/MQB VWs run hot and cooling (oil, trans, engine...all linked) is a challenge for many.

 
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