2 ppm Cu for nearly the life of it, now >3x (absolute, or >4x per 1000 miles), have to look at it in this manner or why bother with UOAs in the first place b/c if it's not 100ppm it doesn't matter? It just means there was a change, change is what you are trying to see with doing regular UOAs. The absolute numbers aren't really my concern, the change is and figure out the cause/fixing it. If a few ppm doesn't matter the mods should just lock the entire UOA sub forum b/c 99% of it is folks posting a single or maybe a few UOA that show zero changes within the method limits.
2018 tuned/tracked Golf Sportwagen 100K/4K OCI HPL Euro 5W40 - uh-oh.....
- Thread starter TiGeo
- Start date
Well stick with Cu. It pops up to 10ppm, does it repeat?
Next UOA will tell us, I suspect working on the intake will have it drop back to my background levels of nearly zero.
dnewton3
Staff member
I've come into this thread late; just reading to catch up.
My thoughts echo others:
- as soon as I looked at the historical runs, I immediately saw the correlation between wear and Si; that was obvious
- intake leaks are notoriously difficult to find at times - often smaller than you can see. And/or something is changing as you drive it (engine torque is opening up a tiny crack you can't see when at engine-off condition
- the elevated wear levels are not desirable, but they certainly are not horrid; I've seen much worse
- always reconfirm data that "doesn't look right"
My thoughts echo others:
- as soon as I looked at the historical runs, I immediately saw the correlation between wear and Si; that was obvious
- intake leaks are notoriously difficult to find at times - often smaller than you can see. And/or something is changing as you drive it (engine torque is opening up a tiny crack you can't see when at engine-off condition
- the elevated wear levels are not desirable, but they certainly are not horrid; I've seen much worse
- always reconfirm data that "doesn't look right"
This is my concern that the silicone intake hose has a tiny hole/tear so I'm just going to replace it.
dnewton3
Staff member
I think that's prudent.
One thing at a time; don't "shutgun" the fix. Change one variable, and then check the data. You do excellent work in that regard.
That way you'll know what fixed the issue, and can assign the root cause.
All parts ordered. Filter and hose with new clamps. About $100.
This, or a friend who can vape huge clouds. lol
No smoke. Replacing all the bits should handle it. Also need to verify turbo inlet pipe o ring is ok and maybe lube it a touch.
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I can try to find some Subaru bois....
Nothing is free in racing. I don't know a single person in my racing circles that doesn't change their oil/filter after a track outing or a drag race event, not one. It is nearly a certainty that you will generate wear metals while racing, get them out of the sump to the extent possible, as soon as possible.
It's excessive to do it after a single weekend to me with oil of this quality. This is not related to the track use, it's related to the leak in my intake. You can see other examples in my data showing 4 days on track and nothing really out of the oridinary.
That is absolutely not necessary.
I did 5k oil runs, and track car at high altitude where cooling is notoriously difficult, and no elevated wear.
People need data to inform themselves. Changing oil after each track is just waste of money.
NOW, brake fluid might be different story. That I do 2-3 times a year if tracking more often.
100%, I bleed my brakes before every track weekend (not after each day).
I'm guessing you reposted the old UOA? It still says 10.29. Did BS ask you what you thought the viscosity should be before they sent you the updated results? LOL.
If you haven’t, you can re use the stock air box “snorkel” to cram some extra cool air into that. Good for a few degrees drop in air temp. Did the same thing otherwise to my 2011 Durango, but I had the HEMI.
Completely forgot that I posted this a few years back... Somewhat related to the filtration topic here. As you can see - K&N, AEM, and AIRAID intakes are made side-by-side. Wonder if it's the same filtering media and the only difference (aside from obviously size & shape) is mainly oiled vs non-oiled?
K&N Factory Video Tour
I love all (even sponsored) videos by the Speed Academy, and thought this one was worth a share. Especially considering how much hate the K&N gets around bitog. Enjoy https://youtu.be/psEFrWqKSnQ
bobistheoilguy.com
Makes sense as when I reached out to K&N to find a suitable replacement filter they gave part nos. for AEM and Airaid. They didn't differentiate it but the dry filters are different.
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Ok update. New silicone intake hose, clamps, and filter. Made sure it was all together well. Didn't note any dust in the intake but it's only been a month. Also noted that the metal pipe that holds the filter in the carbon fiber air box has a dent..maybe? Hose clamp/soft hose should easily form to it. I'll pull a sample mid-year and see how she's going.
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