M1 effectiveness ...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Linctex
Originally Posted By: Vuflanovsky
I used M1 exclusively in two ... the second car had a failed VVT actuator and rod knock at 68K.


That was clearly a manufacturing defect. No oil on earth was gonna save that lemon.


My point exactly...if I kept that Toyota that I traded in at 150K to 300K miles or whatever the oil would likely have little to do with it if it's maintained well. The oil had little to do with this POS Mazda3 that was bought brand new and failed at 68K miles due to defective pins in the VVT actuator. Effectiveness of the oil hinges on the engine and not the protective quality of the oil to hit a magical 300K miles with one brand versus another.
 
A freind of mine who drives constantly for his sales job had 425K as of last winter on a Chevy Colorado using M1 changed every 3K miles. Before that he a '96 F-150 that was over 500K when he sold it. He won't hear of abandoning 3K OCI's in favor of the OLM, and I really can't make an arguement against his results.
 
I guess what I was hoping would turn up, won't.

But, for the above, if you are going to change at 3K, why not just Napa Oil and be done ...

I have often thought that M1 was a marketing ploy that was well done and made money for XOM (I own stock
smile.gif
).

But I was hoping for actual results of long runs - say 10K changes starting in the 1980's with vehicles to 500K where I know the engine involved, and can make a judgement compared to many similar ones I've seen go half that and die ... With pictures of rods & mains and descriptions of cylinder taper, etc.
laugh.gif


I get the feeling that is not what the average M1 buyer does ... Since there has always been a premium on the price of this product, I wonder about the ROI ...
 
Last edited:
Coworker just rolled 300k in his 2003 Corolla. M1 and Toyota filters on 10k intervals. Lots of highway miles ~60+ per day. I looked into the filler hole. Squeaky clean and hardly a hint of varnish. Said he uses about 1 quart every 10k.
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
But I was hoping for actual results of long runs - say 10K changes starting in the 1980's with vehicles to 500K where I know the engine involved, and can make a judgement compared to many similar ones I've seen go half that and die ... With pictures of rods & mains and descriptions of cylinder taper, etc.
laugh.gif


I get the feeling that is not what the average M1 buyer does ... Since there has always been a premium on the price of this product, I wonder about the ROI ...

Besides the oil companies, who tears down an engine just to see how the oil is doing? And even if you did, what would make the results conclusive for a particular oil if there was no control? You are wishing for something that will not happen and wouldn't be meaningful even if it did.

And a price premium on Mobil 1? You mean compared to conventional oil or to other synthetics? My experience is that it's the other way around, M1 is consistently the cheapest of the major synthetics.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn


And a price premium on Mobil 1? You mean compared to conventional oil or to other synthetics? My experience is that it's the other way around, M1 is consistently the cheapest of the major synthetics.


As many others have stated in this thread, they have gone a zillion miles on non-M1 - so the price premium is against all oils including conventionals and blends ...

I know a few truckers and none use M1 HDEO. They get a million miles out of Delo and Delvac, so I'm trying to see where the M1 myhtos comes from ...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
.... And its not even synthetic!

So says the poster that has wrecked nearly every reciprocating engine in his sphere of influence, and has chronicled the numerous failures in minute detail here on BITOG in multiple posts.

Hey, have you ever thought you might have better luck with "non synthetic" Mobil 1 than sticking with your base stock obsession? I mean, you clearly haven't had a lot of luck with all those "true" synthetics, right? Why not give the fake synthetic Mobil 1 a try?
 
To my knowledge only TDT is an M1 HDEO for more of the F250/2500 HD crowd- and then the entire line up for trucks and power systems are Delvac line up and that's where testing goes 500k just like for Delo, Rotella etc. Most cars fail for a host of reasons before 500k (trans, suspension etc)

This day and time PCMO is tested for all kinds of odds and ends to include LSPI, turbo related tests - that includes small/cheap turbos along with expensive/HD, cleaning ability, NOACK, and on and on ... I can and have HDEO Dino in my pushrod engines - but 80's to current small TDI calls for different blends - sludge and CBU are not the same - and those saying LSPI is not an issue are already benefiting from the lube companies R&D to mitigate ...
 
I really thought this thread would draw out the M1 fan boys by the bushel and we'd get all sorts of testimonials ... Has not happened. We got some, but there are about a zillion M! lovers on BITOG ... Where are they?
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I really thought this thread would draw out the M1 fan boys by the bushel and we'd get all sorts of testimonials ... Has not happened. We got some, but there are about a zillion M! lovers on BITOG ... Where are they?


They've all switched to penn
 
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I really thought this thread would draw out the M1 fan boys by the bushel and we'd get all sorts of testimonials ... Has not happened. We got some, but there are about a zillion M! lovers on BITOG ... Where are they?

Apparently your trollish attempt to bait people didn't work.

Maybe people know it would be impossible tell the difference in performance between any major brand synthetic without controls and laboratory studies?
 
Originally Posted By: 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted By: BrocLuno
I really thought this thread would draw out the M1 fan boys by the bushel and we'd get all sorts of testimonials ... Has not happened. We got some, but there are about a zillion M! lovers on BITOG ... Where are they?


They've all switched to penn

+1 I used to be a mobil 1 fan and then I discovered pennzoil
 
I like M1 and have used it in various vehicles that I no longer own for various reasons. I'm at 165k and going strong in my fusion but I've not run M1 its entire life so any testimony would have the same value as a wet flatulent emission.

M1 is a good oil. So is penzoil, Valvoline, Quaker State, motorcraft, Supertech...

SN is SN. If it was changed at oem recommended intervals, the motor will run as long as the rest of the car. Most people on bitog play with different oils, I think that with the exception of TIG, there are no members that have run M1 exclusively.

It is rare for vehicles to make it to extreme high miles without an accident totaling them, simply because a fender bender to a 15 year old vehicle totals it out. I've always thought that flawed. You keep a car in mint mechanical condition and it gets you nothing unless you hang onto the vehicle unto death. A rant for another post. Anyway
 
Rant understood. I fix my own fender benders with wrecking yard body panels ... Keep on keepin-on
smile.gif


My rational is that if you include the energy used to mine resources, refine ore and plastics, injection mold and stamp, weld and glue, stitch and glue, paint and deliver. Then demonstrate and sell - a new car consumes literally tons of energy to put in your driveway.

Fixing and running existing stock has got to be more environmentally friendly ... Plus fixing seems to keep a better portion of the $$ in the local economy. So it feels better to me.

So my original question was not "troll'ish". It was to look at ROI for a well respected oil, no matter what some members here think ... Since my goals are 300K from everything in the driveway, I was looking for a leg up maybe if some of the vehicles like M1.

I have tried it in the past. But each vehicle was noisier on M1, and that is not something I dismiss out of hand. Noise means impact to me. Maybe less oil cushion ... Whatever ...

I have a new to me nice used F-150 5.8 push-rod flat tappet port injected V8 that I'll need to get about 220,000 more miles out of if possible. I know I can get there on old Delo 400, but they are changing that all around ... And I suspect all oils will be changing as I work through the miles ...

I'm trying to figure out if there is any actual real life benefit to $30/gal oil vs $20/gal oil in the long run ... Figure annual or biennial changes not to exceed 10K. Decent filters changed just a week or two after the sump.

Or, should I back-track to SAE 30 HD since I don't need much in the way of winter performance ( Cali you know
smile.gif
). We have a long running Best SAE 30 thread with lots of good input. Seems we may not get an equal one going on M1 ...

I can flatly state I will not go the AmsOil route. Not knocking teh oil. Some folks love it. Just not my bag.
 
Last edited:
Castrol EDGE and M1 0w-40 are both $18-19 a gallon at WM, have stouter additives than their GF-5 counterparts, and are certified under some of the strictest oil tests. They should keep your truck going granted you keep up with other wear items.
 
Yeah, a bit of me is thinking that way ... But the 0W-40's do not have the history of M1, so that's why I went there
smile.gif


Can't make the numbers work for Red Line unless I go 20,000 mile oil changes. And I'm not going there either ...
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

P
Long Term 5w-30 use in Honda 1.5t
2
Replies
38
Views
2K
cptbarkey
A
PUP 5W30 quieted Toyota 2.5L startup rattle completely
2 3
Replies
43
Views
4K
jcy
A
OCI for M1 AFE 0W30 with fram endurance + mixed city/highway driving Toyota 2.5L 2AR-FE
Replies
5
Views
802
I<3oil
B
Long OCI
2 3 4
Replies
61
Views
3K
camrydriver111
A
anyone ran 16,000 mile oil change on land rover w Castrol Edge Professional EP 0W20/dealer oil?
2
Replies
25
Views
2K
NormanBuntz
Back
Top