Lubricating Sealed Hub Bearing

Remove the wheel sensor and pump some grease into the hole.
Removing the wheel sensor is great if it is the older type. To prove my point about the mfgrs. wanting the hub to fail is this. the newer vehicles such as my 2018 silverado has only a wire that goes into the hub for the ABS sensor. Now realizing that we can grease the bearings via that ABS sensor hole they have done away with it, hence the wire only & no way to access the inside. I have reloaded the mouse trap using a new method & it works. The engineers have messed with the wrong cat.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Then definitely tell us how it works out. I gotta say the idea is appealing (greasing things which should be greased).

BTW: Why do they make these things ungreaseable? I think that's inherently dishonest.


I think its more likely they are worried about sealing issues and user error shortening the life of a part they warranty.
Just from my own experience I don't grease things like this or puncture boots with needles, it could easily result in a redo on my dime.

I guess it depends on which end of the business you look at things when deciding what to do, there is what you can do vs what you should do to fix it right the first time. will & those tha;
Some folks don't want to bother & some do. A lot of us do. Some don;t have the ability & that ok. Those that can't reach for your wallet. A lot of us love working on our vehicles, I am one who does & I save a lot of money doing it. Time doesn't matter to I'm retired. I will use the money I save to buy hearing aid batterys & bud lite.
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud



Now that is interesting , and if the bearings are not already shot, could be worth a try. But only if you don't have to take the hub off the vehicle. If I take the hub off, its getting a new timken or skf.

Unless i'm wrong, a lot of times the ABS sensor bolts snap off in the hub and you will need a new one anyway.
As shown in the video the sensor is removable. In a lot of vehicles especially newer models it isan't.
 
I wouldn’t bother. Unless you know specifically the chemistry of the grease used as well how to apply it if it’s a gen 1/2 sealed hub assembly. Everything made in the last 10-15 years uses a gen 3 unitized hub/bearing/speed sensor assembly.
 
What kind of grease are you injecting into the bearing? Chassis grease won't work for long. Also, that amount of grease will likely contaminate the ABS sensor.
 
Then definitely tell us how it works out. I gotta say the idea is appealing (greasing things which should be greased).

BTW: Why do they make these things ungreaseable? I think that's inherently dishonest.
Dishonest it is. I'm talking with some mechanics & looking into the idea that heat transfer from the rotors to the hubs could be a problem. Depending on ones braking habits heat can cause the grease to fail if it gets to hot.
What kind of grease are you injecting into the bearing? Chassis grease won't work for long. Also, that amount of grease will likely contaminate the ABS sensor.
Schaeffer 274#2 grease made for wheel bearings. It contains moly & works great. Check it out on line & download the TDI sheet, that should answer your questions. Chassis grease is not meant for fast moving bearings such as car, truck & trailer applications. Don't use to much, 6 pumps to start, spin the hub & add more if needed but, do not overfill. You need to leave an air apace in there to get rid of heat as it builds up. The bearings should roll not slide. If you can see the sensor & it has to much grease take a Q tip & wipe it off, a little grease on it should not effect its operation.
 
Dishonest it is. I'm talking with some mechanics & looking into the idea that heat transfer from the rotors to the hubs could be a problem. Depending on ones braking habits heat can cause the grease to fail if it gets to hot.

Schaeffer 274#2 grease made for wheel bearings. It contains moly & works great. Check it out on line & download the TDI sheet, that should answer your questions. Chassis grease is not meant for fast moving bearings such as car, truck & trailer applications. Don't use to much, 6 pumps to start, spin the hub & add more if needed but, do not overfill. You need to leave an air apace in there to get rid of heat as it builds up. The bearings should roll not slide. If you can see the sensor & it has to much grease take a Q tip & wipe it off, a little grease on it should not effect its operation.

Schaeffer’s greases are bentone or Al-complex based, thus the risk of grease failure when mixing different thickener chemistries is high. The OE bearing suppliers use certain greases we can’t get but mainly Li-complex, Ca-complex or polyurea. Last time I looked at a beating catalog(NSK and NTN), they list a Shell Alvania Li-complex or Kyodo Yushi grease for their “automotive” bearings and either Chevron EM2 or Mobil Polyrex 2 polyurea for “motor” grade.

Moly grease should never be used with bearings. The exception to the rule are ball bearings and CV joints. Moly grease will cause the rolling elements in a needle/roller bearing to slide. There’s reason the Japanese/European OEs don’t use moly grease in tripod-type CV joints. Moly prevents sliding/fretting wear but you don’t want bearings to slide or they will wear unevenly.
 
Schaeffer’s greases are bentone or Al-complex based, thus the risk of grease failure when mixing different thickener chemistries is high. The OE bearing suppliers use certain greases we can’t get but mainly Li-complex, Ca-complex or polyurea. Last time I looked at a beating catalog(NSK and NTN), they list a Shell Alvania Li-complex or Kyodo Yushi grease for their “automotive” bearings and either Chevron EM2 or Mobil Polyrex 2 polyurea for “motor” grade.

Moly grease should never be used with bearings. The exception to the rule are ball bearings and CV joints. Moly grease will cause the rolling elements in a needle/roller bearing to slide. There’s reason the Japanese/European OEs don’t use moly grease in tripod-type CV joints. Moly prevents sliding/fretting wear but you don’t want bearings to slide or they will wear unevenly.
Schaeffer 274 with moly is perfect for wheel bearings. I have used it for years & have had 0 failures just long life. I with the help of mechanic friends have come very close to overturning the sealed hub issue. Not at liberty to say much now but. within the next 6 mo. this will be very manageable. Modern techology is a wonderful thing & will come to our rescue. Yes, we will get inside the hub & safely. To say the least we are very excited. There will be no guessing when it comes to knowing what grease is inside a hub. You will be able to use whatever you choose. If the grease that comes in the hub is not to your liking, change it.
 
Schaeffer’s greases are bentone or Al-complex based, thus the risk of grease failure when mixing different thickener chemistries is high. The OE bearing suppliers use certain greases we can’t get but mainly Li-complex, Ca-complex or polyurea. Last time I looked at a beating catalog(NSK and NTN), they list a Shell Alvania Li-complex or Kyodo Yushi grease for their “automotive” bearings and either Chevron EM2 or Mobil Polyrex 2 polyurea for “motor” grade.

Moly grease should never be used with bearings. The exception to the rule are ball bearings and CV joints. Moly grease will cause the rolling elements in a needle/roller bearing to slide. There’s reason the Japanese/European OEs don’t use moly grease in tripod-type CV joints. Moly prevents sliding/fretting wear but you don’t want bearings to slide or they will wear unevenly.
They slide only when the hub is overfilled, when overfilled it causes resistance or drag. An example of this is when you walk the beach ankle deep in the surf there is little effort to walk, now go out to where you are knee deep, it will be much harder to walk. This is called resistance & it for sure will make bearings slide, not roll when to much is there. Ask an lubrication engineer.
 
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