Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: skyship
Seems to contain a lot of Moly and about the same amount of detergents as a good oil. It might well improve the performance of a supermarket or Fleabay special, but don't forget that the top of the range full synthetics don't use Moly as they don't need it and adding anything to those quality oils tends to result in sludge and increased wear.
I don't think it is approved by any major vehicle manufacturer, which means it's just another snake oil.
Well if it just leads to sludge we can put one of those idle flushes in that you so highly recommend.
As far as mos2 goes I've been using pp in my hemi,was using Amsoil in my mustang or whatever boutique oil was floating my boat at the time. Using these high quality oils I still got a fuel economy improvement with the mos2 additive added to the oil.
I use it in my generators and air compressors as well and as far as I can tell there isn't any sludge.
Sunkship likes to paint with a very broad stroke,which is fine under lab conditions where every variable is consistent however out here in the real world every driver,driving style and application is different. So in essence sunkship has a point but in the real world where there are so many different variables painting with such a broad stroke isn't always the right thing to do.
When dealing in absolutes you're going to find the world is one big gray area.
The main thing to believe in is that the folks that design engines and the engine oil companies do know what they are doing far better than 99% of snake oil users, that's why they write DON't USE OIL ADDITIVES that have no approvals.
I used to think that adding Moly from a major engine oil company was fairly safe, but the new generation of Moly free oils (Including the last VOA for MAG 0/40)don't like Moly. If you search this site there is a UOA series for Castrol Edge plus Moly with a jump in wear metals and another for LM synthoil showing a big jump in insolubles.
Any additive, including idle only pre OCI flush should be avoided if possible, because there are normally alternative oil types or grades that include the required additive. Only folks that can only obtain cheap farmers oil and have a non commercial vehicle with a fussy engine might benefit from some careful use of an additive and this product might be good for those folks.
If you are using Moly or any other oil additive in an expensive engine it is worth doing some before and after UOA's to check for an increase in wear metals or insolubles, otherwise you don't know what the result will be of any chemical reactions with the oils own add pack or dilution effects for the base stock.
Originally Posted By: skyship
Seems to contain a lot of Moly and about the same amount of detergents as a good oil. It might well improve the performance of a supermarket or Fleabay special, but don't forget that the top of the range full synthetics don't use Moly as they don't need it and adding anything to those quality oils tends to result in sludge and increased wear.
I don't think it is approved by any major vehicle manufacturer, which means it's just another snake oil.
Well if it just leads to sludge we can put one of those idle flushes in that you so highly recommend.
As far as mos2 goes I've been using pp in my hemi,was using Amsoil in my mustang or whatever boutique oil was floating my boat at the time. Using these high quality oils I still got a fuel economy improvement with the mos2 additive added to the oil.
I use it in my generators and air compressors as well and as far as I can tell there isn't any sludge.
Sunkship likes to paint with a very broad stroke,which is fine under lab conditions where every variable is consistent however out here in the real world every driver,driving style and application is different. So in essence sunkship has a point but in the real world where there are so many different variables painting with such a broad stroke isn't always the right thing to do.
When dealing in absolutes you're going to find the world is one big gray area.
The main thing to believe in is that the folks that design engines and the engine oil companies do know what they are doing far better than 99% of snake oil users, that's why they write DON't USE OIL ADDITIVES that have no approvals.
I used to think that adding Moly from a major engine oil company was fairly safe, but the new generation of Moly free oils (Including the last VOA for MAG 0/40)don't like Moly. If you search this site there is a UOA series for Castrol Edge plus Moly with a jump in wear metals and another for LM synthoil showing a big jump in insolubles.
Any additive, including idle only pre OCI flush should be avoided if possible, because there are normally alternative oil types or grades that include the required additive. Only folks that can only obtain cheap farmers oil and have a non commercial vehicle with a fussy engine might benefit from some careful use of an additive and this product might be good for those folks.
If you are using Moly or any other oil additive in an expensive engine it is worth doing some before and after UOA's to check for an increase in wear metals or insolubles, otherwise you don't know what the result will be of any chemical reactions with the oils own add pack or dilution effects for the base stock.
