Laundry detergent

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From experience, I can say that adding dish detergent in too high a concentration will result in a BIG cleanup. Trust me on this.
 
I used Amway's SA8, the powder will dissolve in front loading HE machine since it is low suds. Use only around 3/4 oz. per load.
I last us for 6 months washing 4-5 loads a week. Liquid is also available.

The detergent have no filler. The filler is the one that cause it not to dissolve.

Very economical.

It is one of the few things that is still made in USA.
 
We use Arm and Hammer with oxi-clean. Powder. I can buy a big 215 load box for under $20. It works really well on all of our clothes, dissolves great and leaves a light, clean scent. With a top loader and really dirty clothes I like to pre-treat with dawn or fellsnafta bar, fill the drum with water and detergent and let it soak overnight. I have had just about every stain there is to be had on clothes and they come out clean every time.
 
I am value conscious,
I look for 2x detergent (I have front loading machine)
150 washes for less than $10 for my sheets/towels and misc items
I get ALL free and clear

I use tide cold water for my dress shirts and other whites.

That euro detergent looks interesting I will have to try it out in place of my tide cold water!
 
Top loader. Have occasionally experimented with cheaper liquids, but always come back to Tide. Getting it on sale + coupons it works out price-wise and its superior to everything else.

GrtArtiste
 
I use the Tide powder with no perfume. I also have a water softener which greatly helps. The tub fills, then the detergent goes in, then the clothes in my 25yr old Kenmore top-loader.

I'd advise against using Dawn DD: Too many suds. Laundry detergents are different than DD.

I've tried liquid laundry detergents before, but went back to powder. With the water softener, I meas. detergent by 1/8cup. A little goes a long way......
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Check out a box of Tide some time. It has a ton of patents and is a terrific detergent. Some folks simply use an extra rinse to remove more scents and residues that they may be sensitive to.

I used to almost have to do that, but that problem seems to have dissipated, as it were, over the past few years.
 
I make my own too. Cheap and cleans good. Borax, Arm & Hammer super washing soda, TSP, WalMart dishwasher powder and some Dawn for suds. Three tablespoons each in a gallon of hot demineralized water. Add the Dawn to the final fill bottle after pouring in the detergent to avoid the sudsing when filling the bottle smaller.
 
I use the Tide pods on my dirty and greasy work clothes. Some big loads I was using two pods to get them "ok." The pods are convenient for me to do laundry on the road at the hotels. After we moved we found a Maytag HE top loader at Lowes in the "scratch and dent" section ($479 washer for $250...) and no matter how dirty my work clothes are one pod does the trick. For the rest of the clothes (especially undergarments) and linens we use All free and clear.
 
What ever is on sale, have coupons for, and Giant Eagle gives extra Fuelperks for on sale.
Brands may include but are not limited to: Tide, Gain, Era, All, Arm&Hammer, Purex, etc.
We don't really notice a huge difference, but will use Tide on exceptionally dirty/greasy items.
 
I use two - conventional HE for most things(Kirkland brand), and a special "sports wash" for the stuff I get really sweaty in.

I switched my parents over to the packs, because they use too much. Portion control. Costco doesn't stock a "natural" detergent with enzymes in pac form. The reason why I prefer "natural with enzymes" like Seventh Generation or Method is because they don't have optical brighteners - Tide/Cheer/All/Gain/Persil all have optical brighteners which can interfere with "technical" fabrics and they were intended to give the impression of "bright and clean", but they do make lighter colors dingy in some cases. Most "natural" detergents don't have enzymes which do make a difference in stain removal.

But all detergents today aren't as good as they since since there's no phosphates in them. I'm all for the environment but they did help with water softening and cleaning.
 
Wife is chemical sensitive and so far All Free & Clear is the best. It doesn't clean as well as Tide Cold Water but it is good enough for daily use and still affordable.

I personally use CVS Basic Free & Clear that I got BOGO at $2.5 / 50oz last time, I got so much it will last me 5 years but it has a smell that my wife can detects.
 
Have multiple detergents in my house and have for a decade.

Persil for Color
Persil for White
Tide HE

The persil gets used on anything we wear that touches our skin.
The euro soaps outperform Tide/Gain/ and dept store brands- full stop.

The rinsability and cleaning power of persil is simply the best, but its formulated for front loaders only, and no more suds doesn't mean more cleaning. There are no visible suds at all with persil in my application.

The Tide HE get used with DW's pet grooming business where she brings home a load of towels every night, and any other non critical items like auto wash towels and shop rags, outdoor furniture slip covers etc...

Ive tried Ariel when persil isn't available and had pretty good results.

Have a front load Miele 1215T 220V washer that can heat the water to a few degrees from boiling if I set it there that simply blasts grease and oil away.


Uncle Dave
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: whizbyu
Opinions?


Yes, I think the use of any laundry detergent with perfume/fragrance added should be made illegal.

1st offense - $100 fine.
2nd offense - $500 fine.
3rd offense - death penalty.

+1. Artificial fragrance chemicals in laundry products (and cleaning products, soaps, shampoos, scented candles, air fresheners, etc.) contain VOCs, neurotoxins and carcinogens. They can be as bad as cigarette smoke for triggering asthma attacks. When inhaled and absorbed through the skin from clothing, they combine in the body into thousands of unknown and untested chemicals. That "Springtime Fresh" laundry detergent and fabric softener is loaded with hundreds of toxic compounds.

Chemical fragrances for masking "dirty" scents are designed to make people's noses go numb so they will think the odor is gone. Once the nose goes numb, people want stronger and stronger fragrances to smell anything. People whose noses are numb don't realize how strongly they smell and how painful it is to those who are chemically sensitive. I have a neighbor who uses so much 'air freshener' in her house, I can smell it in the street when she opens her door. She told me she can't smell it at all.

About 15% of the population has very bad reactions to artificial fragrances. I'm one of them. Someone comes into my office or walks by offgassing a cloud of fragrance from their clothes or body and suddenly I can't think, can't breathe, can't swallow, start choking...

I wasn't always this way. Hypersensitivity developed after eight years of doing housecleaning for a living, being exposed to household cleaning products every day. It can happen to anyone without warning.

Back to the topic: Charlie's Soap! Maybe add some TSP, a handful of baking soda or 20 Mule Team Borax. If I want scented towels I put a drop of Lavender essential oil on a damp washcloth and toss it into the dryer with the load of towels.
 
Even zero fragrance soap can be irritating if its swimming around in your clothing so a machine that actually rinses thoroughly should be a priority purchase.

The type of washer you use has a lot to do with how much soap is left over you then wear on your skin.
The amount of left over fragrance is often directly related to the how well the machine rinses.

Biggest problems I find is that almost all top loaders don't actually clean the clothes very well, then leave tons of soap residue and hence lots of "fragrance" in the clothes.

A run in a spinX will tell you a lot about what you've been wearing soap wise. Its kind of a "truth machine" for how well your washer actually works.

- front loaders without internal heaters don't get hot enough to actually kill germs and end up stinking.

When friends stay over for any length of time I throw their first load in without soap and they are all amazed to see them bubble up with lots of foam. Especially jeans.

Bleach is most often simply a cover up for the fact that the cloth isn't really clean but chemically dyed to look clean and white.

UD
 
Originally Posted By: UncleDave
Even zero fragrance soap can be irritating if its swimming around in your clothing so a machine that actually rinses thoroughly should be a priority purchase.

The type of washer you use has a lot to do with how much soap is left over you then wear on your skin.
The amount of left over fragrance is often directly related to the how well the machine rinses.

Biggest problems I find is that almost all top loaders don't actually clean the clothes very well, then leave tons of soap residue and hence lots of "fragrance" in the clothes.

A run in a spinX will tell you a lot about what you've been wearing soap wise. Its kind of a "truth machine" for how well your washer actually works.

- front loaders without internal heaters don't get hot enough to actually kill germs and end up stinking.

When friends stay over for any length of time I throw their first load in without soap and they are all amazed to see them bubble up with lots of foam. Especially jeans.

Bleach is most often simply a cover up for the fact that the cloth isn't really clean but chemically dyed to look clean and white.

UD


+1. It is interesting to see how much soap residue is left behind.

I use Charlie's Soap powder and even then there is residue. I can see it in the foam after running an empty load with white vinegar.
 
Very curious

What kind of machine do you have ?

- and-

1. how many rinses
2. and what is is the final spin speed RPM?

Can you see the water in the rinse - yes no?
if you can't see the final rinse water how do you know how clear the water is?

Do you dump straight to a drain - or to a tub that then drains?



UD
 
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I did extensive research on this topic as my SO operates a grooming business and I needed a solution that can absolutely disinfect without bleach - then not require a interim load to isolate personal wear.

Most guys washing loads of family clothes in cold water in a top loader and or a cheap front loader have clothes filled with a mixture of soap residue and "poop stew." The ugly truth.

If you take the fragrance out thats helpful, but you still have soap residue which is filled with desquamation, that has live bacteria in it. You then "dry" that, then put it on and wear it against you skin till the next load.

This is why the effectiveness of the rinses and spin speed are is so important the upside byproduct of this - is the drier the clothes come out of the washer- the less energy you have to spend drying them.
 
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