Detergents, no solvents, every fill up

I use the trip B odometer to keep track of how many miles driven since the last time the vehicle was filled up. On my 2016 Honda CRV I have it set so that it automatically resets every time I feel up the tank. I then divide the number of miles by the miles per gallon for trip B that it indicates. That's how many gallons I can expect the fill up to take and it's usually accurate to within 1/10 of a gallon. I multiply that number of gallon by 4.45 and that's how many milliliters of Redline SL1 that I measure out into a 100 mm plastic translucent white graduated cylinder that I bought from McMaster Car, and then add that before each fill-up. I always were disposable gloves that I throw away when I'm done with that fill up and I store the graduated cylinder upside down in several plastic bags and throw away the innermost bag when I take the graduated cylinder out. Redline SL1 is a pretty messy oil base product and also it's very hydroscopic and it will attract water right out of the air even on the little bit that's left inside the graduated cylinder so you'll end up with a little bit of water in the bottom of the plastic bag and after a while it'll eat through the plastic bag and you'll find that the water and oil mix has protruded down to the next plastic bag. Also, every 10,000 Mi interval I use a higher dose at a of one bottle of Red-Line SL-1 per 20 gallons. My vehicle doesn't hold 20 gallons so I take an estimated guess about putting more than half a bottle in for the first fill up and then the remaining for the next fill up. I'm pretty sure my injectors are very clean because the engine runs like a screaming banshee out someplace very hot, if I ever stomp on it. It's kind of fun to drop it into sport mode and then open it up. In sport mode the CVT keeps the engine at higher RPMs with the ratios then it's constantly selecting and the ivteck opens up the second intake valve somewhere around 4,000 RPM and above and there is a quite noticeable Improvement in the amount of acceleration that you feel. The exhaust system seems to have two modes. Normal quiet and when the ivteck kicks in it sounds like there's a partial bypass baffle that has kicked in and it gets noticeably louder.

I consider the extra cost for the red line fuel system to be worth it because the engine always has that sporting performance ability if you ask for it.

The four pack of Redline SL1 on Amazon is the best price that I have found.
 
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Show me one automaker that requires the use of Top Tier fuel. Make sure you know the difference between "required" and "recommended" too.
None can "require" it because it would be impossible to prove and a host of other reasons.
That doesn't mean its not a good idea...
 
None can "require" it because it would be impossible to prove and a host of other reasons.
That doesn't mean its not a good idea...
Post I responded to said "definitely need top-tier gasoline". This is a false statement.
 
Post I responded to said "definitely need top-tier gasoline". This is a false statement.
Not at all. .Just because a manufacturer doesn't require it doesn't mean its not needed...
They recommend it like you say...

"Some of the leading automakers sponsor the TOP TIER™ Program and recommend its consistent use in vehicles to minimize carbon deposit build-up and keep engines operating as designed. The number of sponsors has grown over the years and now includes BMW, General Motors, Stellantis, Ford, Honda, Daimler Truck, Toyota, Volkswagen, Mercedes-Benz, Navistar and Audi."

For example...it is needed in my vehicles. If you touch my car you will put top tier in it otherwise you will not touch my car. There is my statement of need, and that is a fact. I could go on to try to convince you why you should deem it a need in your vehicles, but this is a forum where you are presented information and its up to you to decide whatever you need or want to do. Your just presenting semantics, you haven't shown where a automaker specifically recommends against it or any scientific argument against top tier...because that doesn't exist.
 
The biggest problem with non top tier fuel isn't having to treat with a additive.

TOP TIER™ prohibits the use of organometallic additives that are known to damage emissions aftertreatment systems.

I would probably use the Lucas Gallon of elephant snot in a micro dosage if using whatever fuel. Would still use a pea cleaner occasionally.
 
10% Ethanol is all you need to keep the system clean. As long as you drain the tank down before fill up.
 
Redline SI-1 has been used by many as a "maintenance" dose, ie; every fill-up. They use a napthenic distillate, presumably as a carrier, but wouldn't consider it a solvent per se and is safe for continual use. It uses a PEA as the primary cleaning component.
I use Redline SL-1 as a maintenance dose 2 oz. per fill up in 18 gallon tank . Every 3rd fill up I omit the Redline SL-1 and do not use an additive (just as a reset of sorts) . I have also used WM Super Tech TC-W3 oil at a 960:1 ratio which is a little more conservative than the usual 600:1 other users run TC-W3 at in ; strike engines . I’m just looking for a touch more lubricity and detergent from using the TC-W3 oil in my 4 stroke engines . With TC-W3 oil I also omit every 3rd fill up as a reset of sorts . You may also do the same with MMO which normally recommends a ratio of 300:1 usage but I drop down to a conservative ratio of 600:1 of MMO. A little more expensive option would be to use the Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube & Fuel Injector Cleaner by adding just 1/3rd bottle at fill up (WM also offers similar in same looking bottle branded as Super Tech) . Lastly , I use a free software program gas /oil ratio calculator which you can find on Google . Other than what I listed above , I wouldn’t know what else could be suggested for your objective ?
 
I use Redline SL-1 as a maintenance dose 2 oz. per fill up in 18 gallon tank . Every 3rd fill up I omit the Redline SL-1 and do not use an additive (just as a reset of sorts) . I have also used WM Super Tech TC-W3 oil at a 960:1 ratio which is a little more conservative than the usual 600:1 other users run TC-W3 at in ; strike engines . I’m just looking for a touch more lubricity and detergent from using the TC-W3 oil in my 4 stroke engines . With TC-W3 oil I also omit every 3rd fill up as a reset of sorts . You may also do the same with MMO which normally recommends a ratio of 300:1 usage but I drop down to a conservative ratio of 600:1 of MMO. A little more expensive option would be to use the Lucas Upper Cylinder Lube & Fuel Injector Cleaner by adding just 1/3rd bottle at fill up (WM also offers similar in same looking bottle branded as Super Tech) . Lastly , I use a free software program gas /oil ratio calculator which you can find on Google . Other than what I listed above , I wouldn’t know what else could be suggested for your objective ?
For added lubricity, I used Renewable Lubricants Bio-Plus Injector Cleaner which has a bio-based synthetic carrier that would provide a modicum of UCL action. Abandoned the practice when shipping of the product became prohibitively expensive and Lube Control stopped selling Fuel Power Plus, which was another popular bio-based UCL type cleaner. Now, I just use mainly Costco (Kirkland Signature) fuel with a before OCI of Redline SI-1 and dump my left over 2-stroke premix in the tank occasionally.
 
Show me one automaker that requires the use of Top Tier fuel. Make sure you know the difference between "required" and "recommended" too.
No auto maker requires anything. All auto makers have recommendations. The difference in not using top-tier fuel might be insignificant for the first 75 to 80,000 miles but top-tier gasoline promotes a cleaner engine, especially on the direct injection.
 
Show me one automaker that requires the use of Top Tier fuel. Make sure you know the difference between "required" and "recommended" too.
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Over the last two weeks, I think I’ve read about every forum post on fuel additives in existence. Yet, I’ve never seen a question or an answer that addresses one specific aspect. All of the reputable fuel additives (or at least the ones that everyone seems to use) seem to be meant for periodic use, usually right before an oil change. What I am interested in is just the freedom to go to any gas station and it not be a problem if the gas happens not to be Top Tier. I had two Shell stations between my house and work, and they just replaced them with Casey’s. Plus it just makes sense to me that adding the right amount of detergent during every fill up is a better way of preventing carbon buildup than trying to clear up carbon buildup and also hope one application provides 6-12 months of protection. This question wouldn’t be applicable to anyone that has no trouble with access to Top Tier stations, but I’m hoping someone has run into the issue of not having easy access to good Top Tier gas and found a solution that allows them to pour into the tank at every fill up that essentially makes gas from a place like Casey’s have the same quantity and quality of detergents as gas from Shell or Chevron; nothing more and nothing less. I say “nothing more” because my owner’s manual says “does not recommend the use of any aftermarket fuel additives (for example, fuel injector cleaners, octane booster, intake valve deposit removes, etc). Many of these additives intended for gum, varnish or deposit removal may contain active solvents or similar ingredients that can be harmful to the fuel system and engine.” I realize that would suggest my question has no solution, but I’m hoping someone knows of a solution that literally adds nothing more than the fuel additives that than a Top Tier station would have, so I guess the unicorn I’m hoping exists is a fuel additive with high quality detergents that doesn’t contain any active solvents and is intended (and priced) to be used with every fill up. Many thanks in advance for taking the time to read this long post!
Casey’s isn’t Top Tier, but when I go there I’m either filling with E15 (88 octane) or some mix of E85 and gasoline. I’ve seen opinions, but I’m no chemist, that the added ethanol is a more powerful cleaner than a bottle of “xxx” and my plugs at 75k looked better than some EcoBoosts at 30k, so I’m not sure I’m gonna argue.

I hate that corn is being used to fuel vehicles, but I totally enjoy the fact that it can take my 3.5EB from ~320rwhp to over 500rwhp with a tune and 20% extra ethanol. The latent heat of cooling for ethanol is pure magic on boosted engines!
 
Same topic - same opinions as last time. In my small town - 9 of 10 places selling gasoline are TT and name brand …
They are all competitive in prices …
Guess which one has the fancy car wash that drops the price 10 cents for a car wash … (and I don’t use) …
 
Same topic - same opinions as last time. In my small town - 9 of 10 places selling gasoline are TT and name brand …
They are all competitive in prices …
Guess which one has the fancy car wash that drops the price 10 cents for a car wash … (and I don’t use) …
Yep TT is everywhere and priced the same as other reputable non TT stations. It’s really a no brainer. I can go to loves or race track and pay the same for non TT as I’d pay for TT at Valero or Exxon etc.
Only Chevron is consistently more expensive around here.
 
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No auto maker requires anything. All auto makers have recommendations. The difference in not using top-tier fuel might be insignificant for the first 75 to 80,000 miles but top-tier gasoline promotes a cleaner engine, especially on the direct injection.
Show me one automaker that requires the use of Top Tier fuel. Make sure you know the difference between "required" and "recommended" too.
You even quoted my post that said "Make sure you know the difference between "required" and "recommended" too." and still failed. I really can't help beyond this....
 
Whether or not you buy in to Top Tier is irrelevant. The OP wanted to know essentially how to replicate Top Tier on his own, and he got that information.

In Post #13 I outlined the difference in testing between EPA mandated minimum and Top Tier detergent levels.
If you don't think that is a meaningful difference then continue doing what you're doing.
 
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