Latest salvage vehicle purchase from Auction (IAAI not Copart)
- Thread starter GON
- Start date
He is a contractor for the Military. All of us get to pay to move his oil stash.....
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Wife is out of town so started to put the interior back together. Did not get to far as I started to focus on trying to get everything electrically right prior to putting the carper and seats back in.
Have an issue I can't figure out. The rear brake lights and turn signals don't work. The front turn signals work, as do the mirror turn signals. The hazard lights don't work at all. The rear taillights work. I don't know if the reverse lights work. Spent the morning checking fuses, grounds, etc. Not able to identify the problem yet.
Went to get some fresh fuel in her. Murphy USA has 100 percent gas, 87 octane for $3.03 per gallon. Took about 20 minutes to fill, boy that pump was slow. She died while I was pumping gas..... I kept her running.... no idea why she died, but after finishing the gas fill, she started right up.
There is a car was across from Murphy's, so decided to run her through. Boy am I glad I did. Found the source (at least one of them) of the flood. The sunroof had water running into the interior right where the drains are. Add sunroof drain blockade to the to do list.
Really need to figure out the rear brake light/ turn signal issue. I am stumped at the moment.
Pictures after coming back from the car was. The exterior is still filthy......
Have an issue I can't figure out. The rear brake lights and turn signals don't work. The front turn signals work, as do the mirror turn signals. The hazard lights don't work at all. The rear taillights work. I don't know if the reverse lights work. Spent the morning checking fuses, grounds, etc. Not able to identify the problem yet.
Went to get some fresh fuel in her. Murphy USA has 100 percent gas, 87 octane for $3.03 per gallon. Took about 20 minutes to fill, boy that pump was slow. She died while I was pumping gas..... I kept her running.... no idea why she died, but after finishing the gas fill, she started right up.
There is a car was across from Murphy's, so decided to run her through. Boy am I glad I did. Found the source (at least one of them) of the flood. The sunroof had water running into the interior right where the drains are. Add sunroof drain blockade to the to do list.
Really need to figure out the rear brake light/ turn signal issue. I am stumped at the moment.
Pictures after coming back from the car was. The exterior is still filthy......
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Fixed the turn signals/ brake lights.
Put the old rear SAM back in place, they work fine. Maybe the replacement SAM had a issue? Who knows, just glad it is found and fixed.
Put the old rear SAM back in place, they work fine. Maybe the replacement SAM had a issue? Who knows, just glad it is found and fixed.
those headlights need an intervention today
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GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Filled up with non-ethanol this morning to dilute gas that may be a year plus old. Came home and started to smell gas.
Fuel filter, which is located under the back seat, was leaking fuel. I suppose as the day got hotter, the gas expanded, and has been leaking through a hairline crack all day, very slowly. Ordered a new fuel filter and have another project to add to the list.
Not happy about it- but likely a good idea to put in a new filter anyways. Filters run about $140. This might explain why the engine died while I was filling up this morning. These MBs need the fuel pressure proper....
Fuel filter, which is located under the back seat, was leaking fuel. I suppose as the day got hotter, the gas expanded, and has been leaking through a hairline crack all day, very slowly. Ordered a new fuel filter and have another project to add to the list.
Not happy about it- but likely a good idea to put in a new filter anyways. Filters run about $140. This might explain why the engine died while I was filling up this morning. These MBs need the fuel pressure proper....
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Replaced the fuel filter this morning in the dark. Parts arrived a week late, and the car was filling with fuel fumes and no way to stop it. Have a super busy week at work, so went out at 0430 this morning with a flashlight.
Fairly easy to do, hardest part was pulling off the lines to the pump. Fuel tank was full, and at a decline. Made the job wet.... lost I suspect about three gallons of fuel...... After completing the job washed the fuel on the asphalt with about 10 gallons of water.....
Started her up. She appears to have power back. Not sure if it was a clogged fuel filter, or fuel pressure issue. But it is fixed. The OEM fuel filter comes with a new fuel pressure regulator.
Feeling something not right with the front right side of the car while driving. No idea what it is but first thought was a failing air shock rubbing on the inside fender, but no sign from the dash of air shock failure. Still dark out and have to get to work, so the next issue will be for another day.
Hopefully start reinstalling the interior soon... Seems something is always popping up that had nothing to do with the water damage to the car.
Fairly easy to do, hardest part was pulling off the lines to the pump. Fuel tank was full, and at a decline. Made the job wet.... lost I suspect about three gallons of fuel...... After completing the job washed the fuel on the asphalt with about 10 gallons of water.....
Started her up. She appears to have power back. Not sure if it was a clogged fuel filter, or fuel pressure issue. But it is fixed. The OEM fuel filter comes with a new fuel pressure regulator.
Feeling something not right with the front right side of the car while driving. No idea what it is but first thought was a failing air shock rubbing on the inside fender, but no sign from the dash of air shock failure. Still dark out and have to get to work, so the next issue will be for another day.
Hopefully start reinstalling the interior soon... Seems something is always popping up that had nothing to do with the water damage to the car.
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Hit multiple rough patches. Thought I would be putting the interior back together, instead I am trying to understand two issues.
Little refresher, she was running good and I went to fill her up with gas and then a drive through car wash. After filling with gas, started to smell fuel in the car. Some checking showed the fuel filter, located under the rear left seat, had a crack in the top. Filling the tank really exposed this issue. I replaced the fuel filter, took ten days to arrive. After replacing the fuel filter, car was dying 30 seconds after startup. I have a good MB computer, and it was saying ground issues with the fuel filter The fuel filter in the car is electric and also has a fuel pressure regulator mounted to it.
Doing a ton of tracing, nothing I could figure out. Finally came across a module I had never heard of, or let alone seen. GAS TANK FUEL PUMP CONTROL UNIT COMPUTER MODULE. I searched for it physically, could not find it. Searched for it in forums, and in technical diagrams, still could not find it. On a MB forum, posted the challenge and someone gave me a near exact location.
Went to that location, and still not visible. Did some further searching in the area, and found it. Perfectly mounted in a place it can't been seen, touched, or traced. Pulled out the module and sure enough, it has corrosion on both the module and the connector. Tried a basic cleaning, but car is still dying at idle. Ordered a replacement on Ebay, $35.
Next issue is something feels like the front right tire is rubbing on the inside fender. Visual inspection shows the tire is well clear of the fender. This car has air shocks. Hooked up the MP system to diagnose the air shocks, multiple issues. I believe it is the compressor or the module that controls the compressor. I will replace the module tonight, and if error is still there will order in a replacement compressor.
Learning more than I thought....
Little refresher, she was running good and I went to fill her up with gas and then a drive through car wash. After filling with gas, started to smell fuel in the car. Some checking showed the fuel filter, located under the rear left seat, had a crack in the top. Filling the tank really exposed this issue. I replaced the fuel filter, took ten days to arrive. After replacing the fuel filter, car was dying 30 seconds after startup. I have a good MB computer, and it was saying ground issues with the fuel filter The fuel filter in the car is electric and also has a fuel pressure regulator mounted to it.
Doing a ton of tracing, nothing I could figure out. Finally came across a module I had never heard of, or let alone seen. GAS TANK FUEL PUMP CONTROL UNIT COMPUTER MODULE. I searched for it physically, could not find it. Searched for it in forums, and in technical diagrams, still could not find it. On a MB forum, posted the challenge and someone gave me a near exact location.
Went to that location, and still not visible. Did some further searching in the area, and found it. Perfectly mounted in a place it can't been seen, touched, or traced. Pulled out the module and sure enough, it has corrosion on both the module and the connector. Tried a basic cleaning, but car is still dying at idle. Ordered a replacement on Ebay, $35.
Next issue is something feels like the front right tire is rubbing on the inside fender. Visual inspection shows the tire is well clear of the fender. This car has air shocks. Hooked up the MP system to diagnose the air shocks, multiple issues. I believe it is the compressor or the module that controls the compressor. I will replace the module tonight, and if error is still there will order in a replacement compressor.
Learning more than I thought....
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GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Airmatic problem fixed. Using SDS, had four out of six airmatic tests fail. Replaced the airmatic control board, and now all tests pass. This is a pic of the part replaced, under the interior passenger front footwell.
Now waiting on the new fuel pump control module. I took apart the old one, saw corrosion, clean it up and reinstalled, problem appears worse.
Now waiting on the new fuel pump control module. I took apart the old one, saw corrosion, clean it up and reinstalled, problem appears worse.
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Replaced the corroded connection fuel pump control module this morning, along with a couple squirts of deoxit. Car no longer dies at idle. Did not run diagnostics, but all indicators suggest replacing the module solved the fuel pump short to ground issue. Module with tax was under $30 on Ebay. Used parts on ebay for this model MB seem very available and often very reasonably priced.
Wish I had bit the bullet on deoxit early. Not sure if it is snake oil or the real deal...... but many recommend it for corroded connections.
Did not go on a test drive. Car feels like something very wrong in the right front tire area. Maybe in my head.... but need to inspect before going on another run with the car. I am modestly hopeful I can drive this car to work tomorrow.
Wish I had bit the bullet on deoxit early. Not sure if it is snake oil or the real deal...... but many recommend it for corroded connections.
Did not go on a test drive. Car feels like something very wrong in the right front tire area. Maybe in my head.... but need to inspect before going on another run with the car. I am modestly hopeful I can drive this car to work tomorrow.
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Working on why the front right tire seems like it has something very wrong while driving forward, even at very low speeds. It appears ABS is applying brake to it, thinking the car is losing traction.
I did some checking my my MB Icarsoft (didn't have the time to pull out the SDS) and found a common theme.
- N47-5 (ESP module) can't talk to brake control module
- Right front speed sensor
- Left front speed sensor
- Implausible values from rpm sensors: Front axle
- CAN signal wheel speeds from control unit N47-5 (ESP control unit) implausible
- check component y36/6b1Airmatic pressure sensor)
- No CAN message received from control unit N121 (TLC control module)
- No CAN message from control unit weight sensing sensor
And now recall seeing the traction control light flash as I was trying to drive forward at very minimal speed. I sense the car is applying brakes randomly, especially to the front passenger wheel, thinking the car has lost traction.
Time to check the ABS brake module connections and the ESP control unit. The ESP control unit is pretty high up on the dash and I am surprised it is being pointed at as a issue- may just be it is not getting needed input from another module. The car did drive twice with none of these issues- so I sense their may be a module with connections that were allowing amps to pass- that are no longer allowing it.
I did some checking my my MB Icarsoft (didn't have the time to pull out the SDS) and found a common theme.
- N47-5 (ESP module) can't talk to brake control module
- Right front speed sensor
- Left front speed sensor
- Implausible values from rpm sensors: Front axle
- CAN signal wheel speeds from control unit N47-5 (ESP control unit) implausible
- check component y36/6b1Airmatic pressure sensor)
- No CAN message received from control unit N121 (TLC control module)
- No CAN message from control unit weight sensing sensor
And now recall seeing the traction control light flash as I was trying to drive forward at very minimal speed. I sense the car is applying brakes randomly, especially to the front passenger wheel, thinking the car has lost traction.
Time to check the ABS brake module connections and the ESP control unit. The ESP control unit is pretty high up on the dash and I am surprised it is being pointed at as a issue- may just be it is not getting needed input from another module. The car did drive twice with none of these issues- so I sense their may be a module with connections that were allowing amps to pass- that are no longer allowing it.
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GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Just orderedtwo front OEM speed sensors. Can't believe that is it..... but I have been very wrong before so going with the recommendation of others that had like issues: https://www.benzworld.org/threads/w...-parking-brake-problem.2686522/#post-14814170
Found out that if I push the car with the traction control error and grinding noise (brakes being applied by ABS I suspect), I get a parking brake error and then it lets me drive. Drove about two hours today. Turned her off once, and had to go through the same routine to get her to go again.
Here she is at the grocery store. She does run nice, and is much quicker than my 2005 S500....
Found out that if I push the car with the traction control error and grinding noise (brakes being applied by ABS I suspect), I get a parking brake error and then it lets me drive. Drove about two hours today. Turned her off once, and had to go through the same routine to get her to go again.
Here she is at the grocery store. She does run nice, and is much quicker than my 2005 S500....
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You always get the error for the speed sensors even when it's not the speed sensors. I think on E350's, there's a magnetic ring that the speed sensors use to detect the speed. What happens is that the ring can also go bad, either too far in or too far out or just worn out from age. In your case, maybe rust. And yeah, aftermarkets are also sometimes bad so OEM is the only way to go on those parts.
GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Received the oil analysis today. First ever for me, so not sure what I am looking at, but the write-up seems ok. Had a fuel pressure problem, wonder if that is why the fuel in the oil is present?
This oil doesn’t need to be changed yet. There is some fuel in it, but barely enough to mention. A small amount like the
0.8% in this sample is typical of normal use, and we wouldn't expect it to cause any problems. It certainly didn't seem to
bother your engine's wearing parts. Wear metals are at good levels compared to universal averages. Those are in the
far-right column and show what's typical for a 5.5L V-8 Benz after about 6,000 miles on the oil. Suggest running this oil
another 2,000 miles or so and resampling to start building trends.
This oil doesn’t need to be changed yet. There is some fuel in it, but barely enough to mention. A small amount like the
0.8% in this sample is typical of normal use, and we wouldn't expect it to cause any problems. It certainly didn't seem to
bother your engine's wearing parts. Wear metals are at good levels compared to universal averages. Those are in the
far-right column and show what's typical for a 5.5L V-8 Benz after about 6,000 miles on the oil. Suggest running this oil
another 2,000 miles or so and resampling to start building trends.
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GON
$100 Site Donor 2024
Put fixing the ABS/ parking brake/ stabilization control on hold until next weekend.
Started to put the trunk area back together. Lots of electronics in the trunk area.
One high failure item on the w221 S-class is the audio amp. They cost $700+ used/ rebuilt. The general consensus is they failure do to a cooling fan the blows dirt into the unit, but can't easily leave. The amp is the car worked, but the cooling fan seemed to be on more than it should. Decided to take apart the amp and clean it out.
At first could not find any electrical cleaner, so used MAF leaner. Discovered the MAF cleaner does not remove a layer of dirt off circuit boards well. Searched and found a stray can of electrical contact cleaner. Put it all back together and all is well with the amp.
The picture of wet concrete with specs is actually the dirt residue from the amp. The brown looking spec is the dirt from the unit.
Started to put the trunk area back together. Lots of electronics in the trunk area.
One high failure item on the w221 S-class is the audio amp. They cost $700+ used/ rebuilt. The general consensus is they failure do to a cooling fan the blows dirt into the unit, but can't easily leave. The amp is the car worked, but the cooling fan seemed to be on more than it should. Decided to take apart the amp and clean it out.
At first could not find any electrical cleaner, so used MAF leaner. Discovered the MAF cleaner does not remove a layer of dirt off circuit boards well. Searched and found a stray can of electrical contact cleaner. Put it all back together and all is well with the amp.
The picture of wet concrete with specs is actually the dirt residue from the amp. The brown looking spec is the dirt from the unit.
