Is oil really THAT important?

[Onug]

Asking if “oil is important” on an oil forum is a loaded question. Active BITOG’rs are here because we’ve reached Nerd level status on oil (and related lubricants). I find the question intriguing from someone that has nearly 1,400 posts here.

Generally speaking, I agree using a modern oil that meets your OEM’s specifications and a reputable filter per the OEM’s oil cycle is adequate. Follow that plan and there is no need to have fun here on BITOG. But we know that because nerds here have proven it with ample UOAs and pictures of engines pulled apart with 150K+ miles. We also have forum members that prove you can go much longer on oil cycle than even the OEMs suggest. But I can show you a discussion on the Ford forum I frequent where a guy bought a nicely used F-150 with 20,xxx miles and the engine was destroyed by sludge due to the previous owner’s neglect. We also know that a few modern engines (mine included) are susceptible to fuel dilution and oil shearing.

In summary, I agree that following the recommended maintenance cycles with modern oils is a straight forward way to get you engine to 200k miles so you can worry about belts, leaks and other high mileage ailments.

 

[bigj_16]

Originally Posted By: Onug
Asking if “oil is important” on an oil forum is a loaded question. Active BITOG’rs are here because we’ve reached Nerd level status on oil (and related lubricants). I find the question intriguing from someone that has nearly 1,400 posts here.

Generally speaking, I agree using a modern oil that meets your OEM’s specifications and a reputable filter per the OEM’s oil cycle is adequate. Follow that plan and there is no need to have fun here on BITOG. But we know that because nerds here have proven it with ample UOAs and pictures of engines pulled apart with 150K+ miles. We also have forum members that prove you can go much longer on oil cycle than even the OEMs suggest. But I can show you a discussion on the Ford forum I frequent where a guy bought a nicely used F-150 with 20,xxx miles and the engine was destroyed by sludge due to the previous owner’s neglect. We also know that a few modern engines (mine included) are susceptible to fuel dilution and oil shearing.

In summary, I agree that following the recommended maintenance cycles with modern oils is a straight forward way to get you engine to 200k miles so you can worry about belts, leaks and other high mileage ailments.

Do you have a link to the F-150 sludge thing?

 

[StevieC]

For those of us that want to or need to squeeze every last mile out of an engine yes it is. I use my vehicle to make me money so the less downtime and the less expense in a vehicle payment the better.

For the average person that just wants a reasonable long life? Nope.

Happy Motoring.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Imo it's mostly about keeping it changed,clean,and full. But at the same time you don't want to use garbage. Which leads to my question. Whenever I see cars that smoke,is that from never changing the oil,the rings getting gummed up,thus causing oil burning-usage?

 

[Cujet]

Yes, absolutely. Done correctly, oil is cheap insurance.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2015195&page=all

 

[JFAllen]

Is oil quality and service intervals important on a Saab B235/205 Engine? fform the late 90's early 2000's

You bet your butt it is. poor design, poor oil spec, too long a drain interval, too small a sump, turbo'd, service oil change at best swaps out 80% of used oil... The list goes on. However you find those that used premium synthetics had significantly less problems.

I'm using Dexos2 (not Dexos1 v2.0) oil in mine, as it's a mid/low saps oil that still meets ACEA A3/B3/B4. The same is true of VW 504/507 oils

However that is not true of all C2 and C3 class oils.

regards
Jordan

 

[Kamele0N]

I find it funny that mineral 15w40 HDEO in your case seems to be toughter than "state of the art" synthetic M1 5w30...

 

[Donald]

Vehicle maint in all areas is important if you want to vehicle to be trouble free for many years. Oil is part of the maint program. But it does not mean you need to go crazy. The minimum maint you should be doing on your vehicle is whats in the owners manual. For my Subaru that means 0W20 synthetic oil. But the Subaru is not a fancy racing car not a heavy duty truck pulling a big trailer. So NAPA synthetic is fine in the Subaru along with an OEM filter bought on Amazon.

 

[Kuato]

Originally Posted By: ammolab
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Is blood in your body really THAT important ?


Can't be that important...I am running the same spec O Negative I was running in 1946.


The REAL problem is when you have too much blood in your alcohol system.

 

[beanoil]

Originally Posted By: Kuato
Originally Posted By: ammolab
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Is blood in your body really THAT important ?


Can't be that important...I am running the same spec O Negative I was running in 1946.


The REAL problem is when you have too much blood in your alcohol system.

Absolutely. Should be a 50/50 mix like coolant so you don't freeze when it gets cold. Bottoms up!

 

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
I use my vehicle to make me money so the less downtime and the less expense in a vehicle payment the better.


And you bought a Dodge Journey??!

LOL!

 

[Oro_O]

Quote:
I do think that the ACEA specs are better than the API SN, ILSAC GF-5 specs. The ACEA A3B4 spec does help with having very long run intervals. I like the ACEA A5 approval in combination with the Dexos specification.


ACEA A3/B3 is the minimum I will run in a car long-term. I will use things like QSUD 10w30 for a change when it is a $1/quart on clearance, but then I am back to something robust and proven like M1 10w30HM or 0w-40 (A3/B4).

 

[hpb]

Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Imo it's mostly about keeping it changed,clean,and full.


Correct answer right there! Do those three things and your engine will live happily for hundreds of thousands of kilometres/miles, with no hand-wringing or lying awake at night wondering if you should've used Brand X instead of Brand Y necessary.

 

[Shannow]

Decent (proper OEM if required, but actually specced) spec oil in an appropriate grade for your starting and operating temperatures, and your engine really won't know what the label on the bottle is or how much you paid for it.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: Cujet
Yes, absolutely. Done correctly, oil is cheap insurance.

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2015195&page=all


That's some really impressive Minimum Sludge Film Thickness!!
About an inch??
;^)

 

[ATex7239]

It is very important. If there is one maintenance item to do, and only one you could do, changing the oil would be it.

That said, you do not have to geek out on oil specs, "stashes", clearances, and UOA's to be effective at maintaining the life of an engine.

There are folks out there who couldn't tell you what UOA, QSUD, OCI, or VWB meant if their life depended on it, who run vehicles out to 200-300K miles. My mother is one of those people, she is retired and drives a '94 Honda Civic (original engine, rebuilt original trans) and '98 Mits Montero Sport (original engine and trans.)

 

[demarpaint]

I think about it like this. Oil is the lifeblood of my engine, I wouldn't want bad, cholesterol filled, toxic, or poisoned blood running through my body. LOL

 

[mightymousetech]

As someone who is sick of replacing pistons and short blocks on MDX, TL and TSX that burn too much oil due to stuck oil control rings and worn/scratched cylinder walls, I would say yes. Oil is more important than most people think.

 

[OhOMG]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I use my vehicle to make me money so the less downtime and the less expense in a vehicle payment the better.


And you bought a Dodge Journey??!

LOL!


Life's a Journey, not a destination.

 

[FCD]

Really using the cheapest oil that will meet the manufacturer's specs will be enough in most cases, is it worthwhile spening more money on better performing oils that cost more money, i would say it is too.

However in some cases you need to be more careful, for example direct injection engines or old carbed engines that suffer from a lot of fuel dilution need more frequent changes, old muscle cars with flat tappet valvetrain engines need an oil with an adequate amount of zddp to prevent cam/tappet wear.