How well does Redline Oil clean engine varnish?

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Originally Posted By: Pajero
I went to six different stores in the Albuquerque metro area and couldn't find any. That's a good idea going to small businesses. But, I did purchase the 10W30, as you suggested.
Respectfully,
Pajero!

How about any Tractor Supply type stores?

The CK-4 Rotella is fine if you can't find the CJ-4, not SN rated oil so still has decent levels of Calcium but just a touch lower than CJ-4 at least according to recent some VOA.
 
There is a Tractor Supply about twenty miles away. Not bad! I will look. I already have 2 gallons of Shell HDEO 10W30.......





Respectfully,

Pajero!
 
I don't know what you're concerned with but from those photos your engine looks impressively clean. Stick with your usual oil and filter OCI and you'll be fine. I've seen worse with newer engines, mostly sludge and gummed up varnish from not following mfg's OCIs. Mobile 1 or Redline are excellent oils.
 
Originally Posted By: JAG
I've used Redline over many OCIs to try to remove varnish but it made no significant improvement. No motor oil I ever tried significantly helped and I tried many high-end oils.


I also tried Kreen and Auto-X in heavy doses and it didn't help clean up the varnish. Synthetics and short OCI's didn't do anything either.

I think once metal is stained like that, only soaking in metal cleaner or scrubbing down with brake cleaner and a wire brush will do anything.
 
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Originally Posted By: Pajero
There is a Tractor Supply about twenty miles away. Not bad! I will look. I already have 2 gallons of Shell HDEO 10W30.......
Respectfully,

Pajero!

Rotella 10w-30 is good too, about the same specs as the 15w-40 but in a semi-syn.
 
With the Evo 9 MR (its engine) that i posted I did 3000 mile OCI's due to Daily Driving and Track use. UOA's showed I could have gone farther, but in my case in this particular car EDI's were not my goal. Keeping the engine protected and clean was during hard core driving.

I saw some of the photos of other folks engines the classic Olds, and such. You have to keep in mind another factor here in cleaning the engine, and well some hit it on the head a little but here goes my opinion.

If you look at the olds pick and well to me that looks dirty. Redline was originally developed for race cars, aviation stuff like that. We are talking High RPM strung out engines. What does that Olds cruise at while on the Florida freeways? 1800rpm @ 65mph? Low RPM isn't going to get that oil even close enough to the heat it needs to be at to actually clean varnish off.

I do believe to clean things with RL you need HEAT. Heat at such a point that the varnish will actually burn off and the RL will then protect. You only can really do that by really working that engine and doing it often.

My Evo for example was seeing 6-7000 RPM OFTEN and oil temps would be anywhere from 100-130C on track. THIS is where RL will protect and clean IMO.

I am no expert, there are folks on this forum that are maybe they can chime in, but HEAT and RL TOGETHER I think is the key to getting the varnish off.

Also, has anyone found out if the RL formulation has indeed changed to lesser Group 5 Base content or is that just scuttle butt.


Jeff
 
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If you really want to clean the engine then get 2 products from BG. One is the EPR which you dump in right before an oil change and drive around for 15 minutes or so and change the oil. Second is their MOA(Motor Oil Additive) which has a [censored] load of detergents(mainly calcium)and it will do a better job at cleaning your engine. Though from the pics you posted it doesn't seem that the engine is dirty at all.
 
Originally Posted By: Pajero
BrocLuno,

I thought BG 109 was an engine flush? How do you use it?

Respectfully,

Pajero!


Answered in reply to PM
smile.gif


But, for these folks. First can goes in before the oil change. For me, that's maybe 100 miles before the change. Next 1/2 can goes in with the oil for 3K change (trying to clean, not extend oil change). So the carrier oil just has to be good for 3K - that's usually HDEO for me. Four or five of those, and the engine is clean enough to run well and carry on ....

BreakFree gun solvent on top of the pistons if bad stuck rings. Let it sit overnight, fire it up and rings are mostly free. Drive until warm - change the oil.

MMO with HDEO in high mileage motors with some blow-by (smoking on decel, etc.). It'll keep things working until overhaul.

I'd use KREEN, but can't get it shipped into Cali anymore. On the band list ...
frown.gif
 
I used BG products, including MOA for the first fifteen years after purchasing the vehicle. I bought MOA, 44K by the case. I stopped using MOA after joining BITOG and didn't believe it was needed with modern oils. I've used amsoil and BG flush products, none within the last ten years. I do have a bottle of BG 109. Just waiting to see how the Kreen does.

When I am in 4x4 mode, trust me the truck heats up. She has a rear differential locker. The extreme high elevations in Colorado, Utah (Imogene & Black Bear, Hole in the Rock etc) heat the truck.

If I didn't use it for 4x4, any spec oil would be fine. The worse I ever did with the Montero was let it sit in the garage for weeks without using it. I will give Redline a chance in the near future. Will do a UOA and post it.

Respectfully,

Pajero!
 
Having seen the pics I would say that looks quite good. I wouldn't pour in any additives or cleaners in.

Cleaning it would honestly be pure wank factor. And to clarify, by wank factor I mean jerkin the gerkin, spanking the monkey, slapping the salami, etc.
 
Interesting replies. I think expecting "detergents" in oil to clean an engine is probably mistaken. These detergents are really dispersants. They keep contaminants in suspension to be drained, vaporized, or trapped by a filter. Some kind of solvent is most likely needed to truly clean an engine.

Bitog member Molecule can answer this question best.
 
Originally Posted By: Pajero









Opinions please? I'm not mechanically inclined. So, I don't know what to make of aforementioned.


Respectfully,

Pajero!



What is the problem? Looks fine to me! Motor Oil DOES NOT & WILL NOT remove varnish. The varnish/staining means absolutely nothing!!
 
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I typically run a 10w30 HDEO like T5 Rotella or Delo LE with 20-25% MMO during the summer time. Does a great job cleaning the internals of an engine.
 
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