Got my Motor Guard but...

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by Win:
OK, I thought I remembered you from Jag-Lovers.

I thought the AJ16 had the exhaust valve seals installed from the factory; even on the AJ6's I think that is a pot luck issue - neither of my AJ6 engines puff even after sitting for weeks or monthes in the case of the wife's Vanden Plas.

Does the 1997 still use the ZF transmission? I drain the pans on my Jags (and other cars) every 3K when I change the oil, so, yes, I think that is a good practice that will yield practically unlimited tranny life in the case of the ZF. The ZF4HP22 in my 89 Xj6 still shifts like new after 225K miles; I do worry about the 4L80E in my Xj12 not being nearly as long lived as the ZF's.

As long as you have the factory installed oil cooler, I would leave the Jag alone and just change the oil and tranny (and other) fluids regularly.

Good luck.

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Yup, seems to be exactly the same as the one on my 1993 Jag. The transmission in this 97' shifts alittle rougher from 1st to 2nd than my xj40. But all the other gears are smooth as butter. I will let you know if the slight jitter will cure once i change most of the fluid out (it will be today). The engines in these cars are truely marvelous, I love the huge torque at such low rpms with thse 4.0L I-6's. My 2003 Audi A4 1.8T is quick too but only once the turbo spools up, with the Jag it's instant power and even at high rpms makes little noise, something that can't be said about a 4 cylinder. Cheers

 

[therion]

OK I GIVE UP. I JUST PUT ON THE PERMA-COOL MADE SURE ALL THE HOSES & FITTINGS DONT BLOCK THE FILTER AND PUT IT ON AND IT STILL LEAKS THE SAME EXACT WAY AS BEFORE.

I'M SURE SOME PEOPLE HAVE HAD LUCK WITH THESE FREAKIN THINGS BUT IT JUST DOESNT WORK FOR ME, IM ABOUT TO JUST THROUGH IT AWAY

 

[slalom44]

The problem you're having doesn't make sense, so I'm going to throw out something else to look at: I'm not sure what type of hose fittings you use, but if they aren't really secure to the hose, they could leak. Also, these hose fittings are not designed to take any twisting. This can lead to leaks as well.

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by slalom44:
The problem you're having doesn't make sense, so I'm going to throw out something else to look at: I'm not sure what type of hose fittings you use, but if they aren't really secure to the hose, they could leak. Also, these hose fittings are not designed to take any twisting. This can lead to leaks as well.

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Do you want me to take pictures of my installation with the digital camera?? the car didn't leak before i put the adapter on there, and it leaks now with whichever adapter i use (Frantz perma-cool), the hoses dont twist in any erratic way and are not touching the filter, the FF is brand new, and the mating sufaces are clean. WHY is it leaking??

 

[therion]

 

[therion]

I tried taking pics of the adapter plate and behind the FF filter but the camera blurred them so u cant see anything. let me know if anything seems suspicious about my installation, thanks!

 

[plexx]

Here's what I would do , Forget the adapter, this doesn't seem to be working for you, get a 1/4" street tee and install it were your oil presure sender is, feed the bypass filter from the tee and retrun the oil to the valve cover or the oil cap.Also from the pics. you may want to cover the oil lines with some heater hose were they get close the frame or other parts of the van because the viberation could wear the hose and cause leaks.

 

[RalphPWood]

Can't tell much from the pictures. I would rule out the adapters and the picture shows that the Motor Guard isn't leaking. The hose is Gates push lock hose with brass swivel fittings. It is hard enough to find out where a leak is coming from when you are under the rig.
Some 4 cylinder cars now have 2 1/2" OD gaskets and under 3" filter mounts. Shouldn't be a problem with a Ford V8.

Ralph

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by plexx:
Here's what I would do , Forget the adapter, this doesn't seem to be working for you, get a 1/4" street tee and install it were your oil presure sender is, feed the bypass filter from the tee and retrun the oil to the valve cover or the oil cap.Also from the pics. you may want to cover the oil lines with some heater hose were they get close the frame or other parts of the van because the viberation could wear the hose and cause leaks.

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Shoot, so basically this is a mystery leak. Next thing im about to try is to superglue the filter onto the adapter that should cure the leak

Can i permanently bond the filter on the adapter with epoxy resin so that way I wont have to worry about leaks??

[ February 22, 2004, 02:38 PM: Message edited by: therion ]

 

[plexx]

You're not serious? Look , maybe you should forget about the bypass filter,or have a mechanic take a look at it.

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by plexx:
You're not serious? Look , maybe you should forget about the bypass filter,or have a mechanic take a look at it.

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Well it wouldn't leak anymore would it?? Since the motor guard will be doing all the work I dont really need to change the full flow anymore the way i see it. I can always take it off and put it on my Jaguar since there is more room in that car and i can see exactly where it leaks if it does. Any idea on the thread sizes on the jag??

 

[instigator]

theron i had a leak on one of those push-on type hoses before i had to put a clamp on it to stop the leak. maybe you can clean the area w/some spray and watch it while its running to see exactly where its leaking from (i mean get your head in there) it could be a distorted gasket (put on too tight)

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by instigator:
theron i had a leak on one of those push-on type hoses before i had to put a clamp on it to stop the leak. maybe you can clean the area w/some spray and watch it while its running to see exactly where its leaking from (i mean get your head in there) it could be a distorted gasket (put on too tight)

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The O-Ring on the Perma-Cool adapter is in good condition. The one on the Frantz Adapter warped alittle bit from countless tightening. On this truck as you can see it is IMPOSSIBLE to stick ur head in there and see, its hard to even get a mirror in there becuase of the cramped area. But if i can find an adapter for my Jaguar, forget this van i dont even like the idea of having a bypass filter in an area that i cannot see. I'd much rather put it on my JAG. The threads on the jag are MUCH bigger than the fords so maybe i will have to do some investigating as to which adapter will fit and such.

 

[TomdieselS]

Here's two thoughts;
Does the filter nipple mount directly to the block or to an adapter which in turn bolts to the block? If the latter could the use of the Frantz/Permacool adapter push the horizontally mounted filter out far enough so that the extra gasket, between the filter and base, allow enough flexing to cause the small leak?
Is it my old eyes or just the picture that makes the filter look like it's touching a belt driven pump? If touching, filter could screw on but seat slightly crooked or pump could flex under hard use, push filter, make leak. Sure is crowded in there!

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by TomdieselS:
Here's two thoughts;
Does the filter nipple mount directly to the block or to an adapter which in turn bolts to the block? If the latter could the use of the Frantz/Permacool adapter push the horizontally mounted filter out far enough so that the extra gasket, between the filter and base, allow enough flexing to cause the small leak?
Is it my old eyes or just the picture that makes the filter look like it's touching a belt driven pump? If touching, filter could screw on but seat slightly crooked or pump could flex under hard use, push filter, make leak. Sure is crowded in there!

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With the FF Filter off. I can clearly see the gasket and mating surface of the adapter is good and i doubt there is any leaks coming from there. But your theory about the pump shaking it is probably true. It is very tight in there. It leaks a continous amount all the time, even under idle it can leak out a small pool of oil under the car within 10 minutes.

 

[therion]

I finally got the general area where the leak is coming from. I sprayed clean the whole area and rotated the mount so the fittings are easier to see. I put the FF filter back on and started the motor and watched carefully, i could feel a small stream of oil pass by the top of the mount and it flows in the oil filter housing, around the bottom, and ultimately drops down from the FF filter this giving the illusion that the FF filter is "leaking" but really it's something else.

 

[Bio-T]

Loctite Teflon Paste Sealant on all brass to brass fittings works wonders.

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
Loctite Teflon Paste Sealant on all brass to brass fittings works wonders.

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Any idea where to get teflon paste sealant?

 

[Bio-T]

Should be able to get it from Lowe's, Home Depot or other plumbing stores. Try NAPA, Auto Zone, or Kragens first, or any large chain that you have local. If you can't find the Loctite brand, any good name brand will work. Don't use teflon tape, just my own opinion on that.

Clean the fittings of any oil, then apply the paste to the fitting, try not to cover the very last thread, (the one that is screwed in first. After installation of all fittings with the teflon paste, let them dry for about 30 minutes. It will not harden totally. If you can't find any locally let me know, I will send you a medicine bottle full of the Loctite Brand. No charge, I just want to see this filter working, it will be worth your effort, and your engine will love you for it.

 

[therion]

quote:

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Originally posted by 59 Vetteman:
Should be able to get it from Lowe's, Home Depot or other plumbing stores. Try NAPA, Auto Zone, or Kragens first, or any large chain that you have local. If you can't find the Loctite brand, any good name brand will work. Don't use teflon tape, just my own opinion on that.

Clean the fittings of any oil, then apply the paste to the fitting, try not to cover the very last thread, (the one that is screwed in first. After installation of all fittings with the teflon paste, let them dry for about 30 minutes. It will not harden totally. If you can't find any locally let me know, I will send you a medicine bottle full of the Loctite Brand. No charge, I just want to see this filter working, it will be worth your effort, and your engine will love you for it.

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Thanks for your support!. I feel encouraged once again and look forward to fixing this leak once in for all.

I'll check the local auto chains tommorow for the paste. I will redo the whole installation tommorow since it is too dark now. If only i knew this from the start, it would of saved me all the agony and frustration.

[ February 24, 2004, 09:20 PM: Message edited by: therion ]