Got my Motor Guard but...

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therion

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Hey guys, i got my Motor Guard today and I was going to install it until I thought of this. Currently I have in the crankcase mostly 5W-30 SuperSyn but also have a quart of Amsoil s2k in there. I know that once I install this filter I don't have to really drain the oil for a long time (20,000 miles). My dilemma is this:

A) Leave the Mobil 1 5W-30 / s2k 0W-30 mix in the crankcase and continue topping off with s2k-0W-30 untill all the oil will be eventually replaced.

B) DUMP all the Mobil 1/s2k mix oil thats in there now (900 miles old) and just put in 5 fresh quarts of Amsoil s2k.

P.S. after adding about a quart of s2k, my engine got a tiny bit quieter at startup, so that's enticing me to reap the full benefits of s2k by switching completly over.
 
From your others posts its sounds like you bought the motor guard becuase it is the most economical, I would say to keep that oil that you have in there.

As far as topping off, since you have to do this often(3000) I would recommend finding something more economical to use. $8 per quart+$.050 for the TP will get quite expensive.

My suggestion would be to run 1/2 and 1/2 mobil 1 and Mobil drive clean alternating each every other TP change.
 
quote:
Originally posted by msparks:
From your others posts its sounds like you bought the motor guard becuase it is the most economical, I would say to keep that oil that you have in there.

As far as topping off, since you have to do this often(3000) I would recommend finding something more economical to use. $8 per quart+$.050 for the TP will get quite expensive.

My suggestion would be to run 1/2 and 1/2 mobil 1 and Mobil drive clean alternating each every other TP change.
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Actually i bought it to extend the life of my engine. I want to run only synthetic thanks.
 
quote:
Originally posted by msparks:

quote:
Originally posted by instigator:
leave it and top off with the mobil(not scamsoil)
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This is what I would use. Go try to find it on sale in the 5 quart jugs. This will be your most economical option for a synthetic
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As long as there will be no additive clash between the Mobil 1 5W-30 and the s2k I think I will continue to top off with the s2k until all of the Mobil 1 will be replaced with the s2k. I'll change the tp filter after about 1,000 miles for the first time so that will put me already at about 2 quarts s2k & 3 qt. M1. My only concern is engine life, but then again i really dont want to dump out 4 quarts of perfectly good 900 miles M1 down, its bad for the environment.

Any thoughts or concerns about the two additive packages clashing and causing problems??
 
quote:
Originally posted by msparks:

quote:
Originally posted by therion:
[
Any thoughts or concerns about the two additive packages clashing and causing problems??
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nope shouldn't be a problem. [/QB]
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Dang trying to figure out why i have a stupid leak dropping down on the full flow filter when the engine is running
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As a rule of thumb on a gasoline engine if the oil looks like it was just poured out of the bottle you are changing the oil filter enough. If the oil is red when it is new I expect it to stay red. If it is green when it is new I expect it to stay green. I remember when the premium gasoline was bright red the oil absorbed the red. On a diesel I expect the diesel soot that is too small to be filtered out to turn the oil black. I expect the oil to be a beautiful black such as it would look if it had ink in it. I expect the viscosity to be the same as new. This requires more filter changes than it would if I wasn't too concerned about getting normal wear.
Unless my calculator is giving me a false reading a 20 dollar filter element costs 20 times more than a one dollar filter element.
Back when I was selling the Frantz oil cleaner the Marian County Sheriffs Department of Salem Oregon was changing the tp about every 2 to 3000 miles. They changed the full flow filter every year or so. They had been doing it that way for 20 years. That doesn't mean that would be the proper change interval in a more harsh climate. It's a matter of the owners judgement. A police car does a lot of idling. They don't drain oil. I think they are mostly concerned with eliminating waste of natural resources. Clean oil is different things to different people.

Ralph
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Ralph, still struggling with that leak
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. I have put a new Amsoil SDF15 filter on there with no difference. I think its something else maybe...
 
Ok, **update**

I took everything off once again, including the adapter. I tightened down the fittings again, and put sealant on on all the fittings, cleaned the mating material on the frantz adapter. After i installed it i got the same style of leak from the bottom of the FF filter, which has to be from the old oil in the filter. So anyway ill wait a day for all the old oil to drip down and ill try to start the car tommorow and see if it still leaks.

I am getting more and more frustrated with this bypass filter, I knew this project is not going to be as easy and plug & play like people on this board make it seem
frown.gif
. Anyone else have leaks using the Frantz Adapter?? well wish me luck i really need this to work my truck needs the bypass for the hard summer driving ahead.

P.S. I used all the 5 quarts of Amsoil s2k when taking off the oil filter numerous times, inspecting, and topping off. Total money wasted in trying to diagnose the problem: $40 (top off oil and filter)
 
When using the Frantz adapter for your pressure, it is always a good idea to coat the gasket that mates with the engine FF plate with a liberal amount of grease. Then also coat the FF with a liberal amount of grease. Has worked for over 35 years for me.
No, any modification to an oil system is not plug/play, but a certain mechanical aptitude is required to install a bypass system. Now only you can determine what level your mechanical ability is at, but at this point it appears to be at the frustration level, and no a bigger hammer won't work.

dunno.gif
 
Therion,

Sorry you are having troubles, but this should be pretty easy to diagnose and correct. For us to help you better, can you give us a few more details on your bypass filter installation?

Vehicle/Year
Motor size in cc or cu. in.
Which Frantz adapter are you using? ( I think they come in A through E sizes, at least for current adapter orders)
What is the make and model of your Full Flow filter?

I am assuming that your original make/model of Full Flow filter worked okay without any oil leaks prior to your Frantz adapter/Oil Guard installation. Is that correct?

I just put a "Size C" Frantz adapter on a motor that uses standard Chevy 350 oil filters. I had been using a 2 quart NAPA 1794 truck filter on this motor. The size C adapter gasket (gasket goes toward the motor, not the full flow filter) is
3.00 in I.D. and 3.39 in. O.D. I have zero oil leaks with my Frantz adapter installation. The 1794 (Chevy filter) gasket size is 3.44 in. O.D./3.10 in. I.D., so it is slightly larger than the Frantz gasket.

You might check the Frantz rubber gasket size compared to the gasket size on your correct full flow filter. Small differences between the gasket I.D.s and O.D.s (around .1-.2 inch) should not matter much, but check that the gasket on your full flow filter rests on solid aluminum and not on any of the oil flow holes through the Frantz adapter plate.

Good luck.

Steve
 
The adapter is a Frantz 1750 adapter with both a port for pressure to the filter and a port for the return. It sounds like Therion is doing everything right. It is doubtful that the adapter is defective from the factory. It could be that being in a box with other adapters for the last 20 years has scratched it. I am sending him a Pera-Cool adapter with bushings. That way if someone in cold country wants to know how the Perma-Cool adapter works in cold country he can help. If there is no leaks, both filters heat up and the oil pressure is good everything is working good. Even here in Texas it takes a long time for the filters that clean oil to heat up. It doesn't take long in the summer. Here you don't need an oil that can take the heat. You need a oil cooler.
They put relief valves in the Perma-Cool adapters that are for cars that don't have the presssure relief in the engine. This is when you get a restricted filter or oil cooler. The oil has another way to get to the engine. The Frantz depends on flow of oil to cause a pressure drop. The Perma-Cool depends on the restriction of the oil going thru the relief. I have some 181 adapters on diesel generators at a tourist resort in the Bahamas. The relief valve wasn't large enough for one oil hungry engine. They drilled a 1/8" orifice near the relief valve to bring the oil pressure up where they wanted it. The more wear on the engine the more oil the engine needs to pressure up. A 1/4" orifice reduced the oil pressure to the Motor Guard and it wouldn't heat up. These guys have a thermometer that you aim at things to tell where the heat is going. I drilled Therion's adapter 7/32".

Ralph
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Thanks Ralph. I look forward to trying the new adapter in hopes of stopping the leak
smile.gif
I am already very excited to use a bypass on my truck and if this one works out I will buy another bypass for my brothers car he just purchased, a 1997 Jaguar XJ6 with 92,000 miles.

Talk to you soon..
smile.gif
 
Therion,

What are you trying to accomplish?

I just crossed over 225K miles on my AJ6 engine, much of that mileage on cheap Wal Mart Supertech oil changed every 3K or so. The AJ6 and AJ16 engine in the 1997 Xj6 are not different in any material way that would affect longevity.

The AJ6 and AJ16 Jaguar engines are robust designs made from top quality materials and are typically very long lived power units; the 225K on mine is not even unusual. I expect it and the tranny will go at least 400K or longer.

Just change your oil and tranny fluid regularly. That engine will last forever.

OK read closer, this time. If nothing has been done to the Jaguar yet, it would be best to just leave it alone.

[ February 20, 2004, 01:54 PM: Message edited by: Win ]
 
quote:
Originally posted by Win:
Therion,

What are you trying to accomplish?

I just crossed over 225K miles on my AJ6 engine, much of that mileage on cheap Wal Mart Supertech oil changed every 3K or so. The AJ6 and AJ16 engine in the 1997 Xj6 are not different in any material way that would affect longevity.

The AJ6 and AJ16 Jaguar engines are robust designs made from top quality materials and are typically very long lived power units; the 225K on mine is not even unusual. I expect it and the tranny will go at least 400K or longer.

Just change your oil and tranny fluid regularly. That engine will last forever.

OK read closer, this time. If nothing has been done to the Jaguar yet, it would be best to just leave it alone.
Click to expand...
WOW lets hope so
smile.gif
I used to have a 1993 XJ40 with 150,000 miles ran Valvoline 10W-30 dino oil. Engine ran like new until it was crashed except for the blue smoke when started
frown.gif


I'm hoping to prevent another valve guide failure in this one, it doesn't smoke at startup yet. The tranny fluid in the 1997 we just got was VERY bad, it smelled burnt and was clearish looking. I am doing pan drains until the fluid becomes clear, then I will drop the pan replace the filter and clean it out and top it off with synthetic atf fluid. Is this a good way of doing it?

The bypass system will allow me to not change the oil anymore since it can get expensive with 8.5qt. sump capacity
 
OK, I thought I remembered you from Jag-Lovers.

I thought the AJ16 had the exhaust valve seals installed from the factory; even on the AJ6's I think that is a pot luck issue - neither of my AJ6 engines puff even after sitting for weeks or monthes in the case of the wife's Vanden Plas.

Does the 1997 still use the ZF transmission? I drain the pans on my Jags (and other cars) every 3K when I change the oil, so, yes, I think that is a good practice that will yield practically unlimited tranny life in the case of the ZF. The ZF4HP22 in my 89 Xj6 still shifts like new after 225K miles; I do worry about the 4L80E in my Xj12 not being nearly as long lived as the ZF's.

As long as you have the factory installed oil cooler, I would leave the Jag alone and just change the oil and tranny (and other) fluids regularly.

Good luck.
 
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