Full synthetic oils and stop-n-go driving?

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i use delo 5w40 syn in my little car i drive highway but there is little stop or go traffic. the oil change cost me 23 and change every 8,000 miles.
that seems cheap enough and i got a 1/2 quart left in the bottle at every 8th oil change i got enough loose oil in the bottles to change me oil again.
 
Define synthetic. Are we talking Grp III, Grp III+ or Motul 300V ...

Which ain't goinna be no stinking $24.95 with a filter ... Maybe $100/5 qts plus a filter
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If u do 5k miles OCIs, then get the cheapest brand name oil u can get. It’s true that syn and blends can be had at dino prices (clearance, rebates, sales, etc). If u run full synthetic, do 7500 mile OCIs to save even more
 
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian
Conventional oils are like Ramen noodles - they will work fine a few times, but long term use will lead to serious issues. Use synthetics.


I've got a lady friend with a Ford Focus with over 220,000 miles, another friend with a Honda Accord with 289,000 miles, a neighbor with an F-150 that's 311,000 miles, another neighbor with a Z71 Chevy pickup with 261,000 miles, and my 1995 K3500 7.4 liter with 273,000 miles that all say you are full of baloney.

NONE of these vehicles have ever seen synthetic oil in their entire lives.
Show us these "serious issues" we are supposed to be having.

[ Drops mike and walks away...... ]
 

This kind of serious issues. 90k miles on conventional in northern regions of US. AFAIK manufacturer recommended OCIs. BUT northern regions and a lot of stop-n-go and short trips did it's job here. The car still ran "fine" without engine issues, but engine failure was only one chunk of sludge in a pick up tube away.

Is this the part where I drop the mic? Catch it buddy.
 
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian

This kind of serious issues. 90k miles on conventional in northern regions of US. AFAIK manufacturer recommended OCIs. BUT northern regions and a lot of stop-n-go and short trips did it's job here. The car still ran "fine" without engine issues, but engine failure was only one chunk of sludge in a pick up tube away.

Is this the part where I drop the mic? Catch it buddy.

As far as you know, manufacturer recommended OCIs? Whatever. Doesn't sound like you're sure about that.

And I don't believe everything I see/read on the internet. Catch your own mic.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: wemay
What? Long term use of conventional oil will "lead to serious issues?"

How so?


If I was to say that you'd accuse me of trolling.
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Never Merk', never.
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Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
... I'm just wondering if I really am wasting money on these OCIs especially when I usually change them out at 5,000 miles.

Short answer? Yes - it's a waste.


Long answer ...
There is a fantastic way to know for sure, rather than have to decipher all the opinions you're getting. Run some UOAs. Collect some data. Find out for yourself. Do it this way ...
Run two more 5k mile OCIs with conventional lube. Take UOAs and compare/contrast those to macro data.
Then run a couple 5k mile OCIs with a syn. Again - take UOAs and view against the macro data.
Then, review the ROI potential. If the syn costs 3x more money, then it should return 3x more "something" (3x less wear or 3x longer OCI); if it does, use it. If not, don't. You cannot call one "better" using macro data and only a few samples, but you can find out if they both perform equally (within normal performance bounds). If they are equal in performance, pick the cheaper one.


Yes- I hear you. I hear you and a wagon load of nay-sayers already constructing your objections. You think it's severe to do stop/go driving. And I'm telling you it does not matter. I ran an experiment in my wife's old Villager van; a total soccer-mom abused vehicle. Typical stop/go runs, short trips, multiple on/off cycles all day long. So I wanted to know how this type of use affected wear. I first ran a 5k mile baseline. Then I ran 10k miles on one OFCI, on W/M ST lube and a Puro filter. That is 3.3x longer than the 3k mile "severe" schedule in the maintenance manual. And yet the UOA was totally normal in wear rates. And, to double down, I then did the same, extending out to 15k miles on the OFCI; 5x longer than the "severe" rated OCI. Again - totally normal wear rates DESPITE the "severe" use. And so my conclusion was two-fold ... "Severe" really isn't after all, and I was wasting lubes changing oil too often. Even though I used dino oil at FIVE TIMES THE SEVERE SERVICE FACTOR, the wear rates were totally within "normal" statistical bounds! And yes- I did pull the valve cover to check for sludge build up; never happened. Sludge in an engine is more of a engine-family trait issue; not unlike those who suffer from arterial plaque. Some engines sludge, some don't. Using a syn versus a dino isn't likely to greatly alter this trait in 5k miles.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3169384/1

OK - so maybe you think that Villager experiment was a fluke? Well I'm now running the same type experiments between dino/syn with my two MGMs.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4398177/1
Guess what? The syns are not out-performing the conventional oils. Both are returning totally "normal" wear rates, even though I'm running lubes out to 2x the 5k mile OCI. Yet more proof that there's tons of available performance in a lowly house-brand dino lube.


Now, I'm not saying you have to run out longer OCIs. You can, but you don't have to. But what you should learn, is that dino oil is way more capable than most folks think; there is a huge amount of reserve capacity in conventional lubes and filters. It is statistically improbable, if not impossible, for any syn to outperform a dino oil in 5k miles of use. 5k miles of "severe" driving does not bring out any disparity in contrast of the two lubes. So many folks cry out that syns are "cheap insurance". Bovine Manure! They are neither cheap, nor insurance. They are a waste under the type conditions you operate. If a dino oil can go 5x further than a "severe" rated OCI, and yet return totally normal wear rates, then there is already a HUGE amount of cheap insurance in a dino oil. Using a syn only increases the wasted cash, because you end up not utilizing potential.


I beg of you; don't be the typical BITOGer here. So many folks ask for opinions, and the VAST majority of the answers they get are based on supposition and guesses. Occasionally, someone breaks out of the mold, and actually DOES SOMETHING to prove or disprove the theory. And we then learn something. Sadly, experiments like mine are too few and far between; the hype, mythology and rhetoric are deeply entrenched here.

You have three choices:
- You'll blow off my suggestion and use emotions rather than intellect, and let a bunch of hysterical folks talk you into syns
- You'll run the experiment for yourself, and actually learn something, in real time
- You'll learn from my experiment and save yourself the trouble (data here for all to see



It's up to you. Make an informed, rational choice, or let your emotions take over. What you "want" and what your engine "needs" are likely two entirely different things. My point? Quit listening to a bunch of bench racers who love to regurgitate marketing hype. Put your money where your mouth is; go out and learn something first-hand. Or, trust someone like me who actually did it more than once, and has real, tangible, credible proof that what I say is true.
 
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Originally Posted By: Tony10s
Originally Posted By: Vlad_the_Russian

This kind of serious issues. 90k miles on conventional in northern regions of US. AFAIK manufacturer recommended OCIs. BUT northern regions and a lot of stop-n-go and short trips did it's job here. The car still ran "fine" without engine issues, but engine failure was only one chunk of sludge in a pick up tube away.

Is this the part where I drop the mic? Catch it buddy.

As far as you know, manufacturer recommended OCIs? Whatever. Doesn't sound like you're sure about that.

And I don't believe everything I see/read on the internet. Catch your own mic.


Not only that, but unless you use this example as a control, and then run the same experiment under the same conditions with syn, you really have no idea if this is due to the lube, or the conditions, or the propensity of the engine to sludge itself. This is an example of one-sided anecdotal hype. It is quite possible that the same results may have come from syn. Point is that you don't know because only 1/2 of the experiment has been logged.

I have seen engines run out to 10k miles on repetitive OCIs, and never had that kind of sludge, all while using dino oils.

So this example posted in the image, while ugly to look at, really does nothing to prove or disprove any point whatsoever, because it's only one-half of an experiment.

Typical BITOG half-baked conclusions.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
... I'm just wondering if I really am wasting money on these OCIs especially when I usually change them out at 5,000 miles.



Short answer? Yes - it's a waste.



I have a question to this...and I don't know the answer(s).

Does a satisfactory UOA as explained in the examples by Dnewton3 where wear metals are low ensure your engine is not producing and applying sludge to its internals? In other words can sludge be produced when TBN levels appear satisfactory? That begs another question....are the same satisfactory TBN levels identical for all cars/engines/uses?
 
More of a reason to use synthetics when you do a lot of stop and go driving even if its a 5000 mile interval. Obviously synthetics hold up better to severe driving than conventional oils do. I would be more inclined to use conventional oil in a car that does majority of highway driving since that is easier on the oil.
 
Unless an engine doesn't specifically require synthetic in the manual then there is no way that the engine will look like the above pictures using conventional oil unless the OCI was too long for the driving encountered (eg: Severe Duty but adhering to normal service OCI), wrong oil type was used (not meeting specifications) or there is a problem with the engine and it stresses the lubricant past what it can handle.

Sorry I have taken apart too many engines and this has never been the case. I would put money down on this. I have literally been inside maybe 1,000+ engines.

If this were the case there would be engines grenading all over the place and this IS NOT happening.
 
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If you change your oil three times a year, Synthetic oil is like ten bucks more a gallon.So 30 dollars more to have the best kind of oil in your machine.
 
Originally Posted By: ron17571
If you change your oil three times a year, Synthetic oil is like ten bucks more a gallon.So 30 dollars more to have the best kind of oil in your machine.


No it isn't there are always sales and rebates. I picked up some Havoline ProDS Synthetic for $10.70 a 5 quart Jug! 5 Jugs in fact.

By the way my Toyota only take 4 quarts.
 
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I'm looking forward to someone creating a 6-quart jug and offering rebates on those. All three of my vehicles take 6 quarts. I'd love to return to being able to pour in an entire jug, and be done.
 
Originally Posted By: crazy_raccoon
I'm thinking about at least switching to a synthetic blend to save some money. I'm just trying to get the best out of my oil, while maintaining my car and trying to avoid fuel dilution due to short trips and not being able to get the oil to optimal temperature.


Do you change your own oil ? If so , buy the oil on sale . Same with the filter or order from Rockauto.com . Pretty cheap insurance .

Also , it it is a recent GM engine , it is specified Dexos labeled oil . Which will be at least a synthetic blend .
 
My advice is to use the most cost effective lube which meets your manufacturer's specs at the correct OCI. For me its a "Synthetic" for 2.99 a quart. No rebates no hassle. I use the "Synthetic" because it cost the same as the "Blend" which meets the same specs.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
If your car doesn't consume much oil, synthetic oil would be great for protecting in all those cold starts and putting up with the fuel dilution.

If your car consumes a lot of oil, short trips and mild use might allow oil to accumulate in the combustion chambers, which might cause other problems. Might be best to stick with a conventional, as that might burn off more easily.


Are you recommending using a di-ester based PCMO? Because this is the only "superior" performing base regarding fuel dilution.
 
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