Early Oil Change on New VW EA888?

[donnyj08]

I have a 2024 GLI and changed mine around 900 miles. I bought the VW 508 oil, filter and drain plug at the dealer. I bought a drain plug tool online. I once owned a 2013 GTI I bought new which is now my brothers work car since he doesn’t want to drive his Acura to work being a WM pharmacy manager. I changed the oil on that car early and last I heard it has over 190k on it. The GTI hasn’t had any engine issues and still has the original turbo. The oil goes to the halfway mark between add and full around the 4K mark he says as it did for me when I owned it.

Thanks for the information. I’ll have to make a trip to the dealer to get supplies I would say. I’m assuming if I order online I could use the oil change kits for the 22+ GTI As FCP and ECS don’t have model data for the 2024 Atlas yet. I would assume both being a Gen4 EA888 the filter and the drain plug should be the same?

 

[donnyj08]

I changed mine around 750 miles ('24 Atlas). I agree - peace of mind is priceless, especially if you are planning to keep the car for a long time.

I plan to change every 10000 km (6200 miles) going forward. It's a little bit more than the "unofficially recommended" 5k mile OCI for VWs, but 10000 km is easier to remember and we don't do short-tripping regularly. 508.00 0w20 can easily handle that.

I’ll probably plan to make a trip to the dealer or make an online order for materials and get it changed somewhere between 1,000-1,500 miles or so.

How many miles are on yours so far?

 

[dgunay]

I’ll probably plan to make a trip to the dealer or make an online order for materials and get it changed somewhere between 1,000-1,500 miles or so.

How many miles are on yours so far?

Just passed 2500 miles today, and my long-term average (since I bought it) is 21 MPG on winter tires.

My wife usually drives it to work 3 times a week, and it is our weekend family hauler.

I was expecting to have a small amount of oil consumption, but there is none. My GLI burned a little bit of oil the first 5000 miles, then it stopped burning oil afterwards.

Speaking of oil, I purchased the oil dipstick. Unfortunately, it doesn't come with it, you have to check the infotainment screen without one.

 

[RAVL]

Up until about the 80's, most euro car makers suggested the first oil change at 1,000 miles since most of the wear happens then as the microscopic high points on the sliding surfaces wear off and shed into the oil. To give an impression of low maintenance, they stopped recommending that, yet the engines are still made of the same steel, aluminum and bearing materials as they were back then. Will it make a difference in engine life? Who knows, but no engine wore out or broke from too frequent oil changes.

A very experienced BMW mechanic (35 plus years) told me that they stopped recommending the early changes back in the 90s because the production motors are microfinished (I believe that is the word he used) and there is no excess from manufacturing like there used to be. He stated the unequivocally and said doing an early oil change was fine if it gave you peace of mind but there was no reason to do it, and certainly no conspiracy.

 

[chris719]

A very experienced BMW mechanic (35 plus years) told me that they stopped recommending the early changes back in the 90s because the production motors are microfinished (I believe that is the word he used) and there is no excess from manufacturing like there used to be. He stated the unequivocally and said doing an early oil change was fine if it gave you peace of mind but there was no reason to do it, and certainly no conspiracy.

Every M engine still gets an oil change at 1200 miles. Whether it’s strictly necessary or not, they do it. Keep in mind mechanics aren’t engineers either, and only a limited subset of those can accurately answer this question. It could even differ from design to design and also between manufacturing processes and sites.

 

[RAVL]

Every M engine still gets an oil change at 1200 miles. Whether it’s strictly necessary or not, they do it. Keep in mind mechanics aren’t engineers either, and only a limited subset of those can accurately answer this question. It could even differ from design to design and also between manufacturing processes and sites.

Yes, the M motors are different. Our conversation was about normal cars. This mechanic is extremely knowledgeable, I would almost call him a genius, and if you spoke to him to gauge his knowledge you would, I am confident, come away with a similar view. A little eccentric certainly as well. I stopped doing break in oil changes after that convo and have taken a number of cars to 150k-200k with no engine problems at least. Again, if it makes people feel better then do it but on a normal car there is no reason.

 

[4WD]

I still break in a vehicle (it’s more than the engine) by driving it back roads & random +/- 500 miles - early OCI at 1k …
Think I’m going with a known oil/filter that way …
FWIW - never had an oil burner …

 

[donnyj08]

Just passed 2500 miles today, and my long-term average (since I bought it) is 21 MPG on winter tires.

My wife usually drives it to work 3 times a week, and it is our weekend family hauler.

I was expecting to have a small amount of oil consumption, but there is none. My GLI burned a little bit of oil the first 5000 miles, then it stopped burning oil afterwards.

Speaking of oil, I purchased the oil dipstick. Unfortunately, it doesn't come with it, you have to check the infotainment screen without one.

I too purchased a dipstick as well. The hole is already there, doesn’t make sense they just capped it off. I’m glad there was an aftermarket option.

I’m at 670 miles and the oil is still on full. No measurable usage to speak of so far.

 

[Thermo1223]

I too purchased a dipstick as well. The hole is already there, doesn’t make sense they just capped it off. I’m glad there was an aftermarket option.

I’m at 670 miles and the oil is still on full. No measurable usage to speak of so far.

View attachment 211563

Same dipstick in the Tiguan...I bet those 2024 still have one.

 

[Torrid]

I changed mine around 750 miles ('24 Atlas). I agree - peace of mind is priceless, especially if you are planning to keep the car for a long time.

I plan to change every 10000 km (6200 miles) going forward. It's a little bit more than the "unofficially recommended" 5k mile OCI for VWs, but 10000 km is easier to remember and we don't do short-tripping regularly. 508.00 0w20 can easily handle that.

I do 6k-7k mile changes on my GTI. I know most lean on the 5k EA888 change, but I see a lot of highway. I would likely do the same with your driving habits and think you're right on track.

 

[andrew_j]

Do what is most comfortable.

We did 10k for every oil change with 508 oil in related engine in 18 Tiguan and it finally consumes 1 quart every 7k miles with 160k on it.

 

[Indyxc]

Yes, the M motors are different. Our conversation was about normal cars. This mechanic is extremely knowledgeable, I would almost call him a genius, and if you spoke to him to gauge his knowledge you would, I am confident, come away with a similar view. A little eccentric certainly as well. I stopped doing break in oil changes after that convo and have taken a number of cars to 150k-200k with no engine problems at least. Again, if it makes people feel better then do it but on a normal car there is no reason.

The cylinder bores now that a much different microfinish, a lot narrower RVK, RPK, RK, RA, etc, cylinder bore surface finish. The cylinder bores require much less break in, and the break in on them generate a lot less material.

However, the rest of the engine is machined as normal. The block, head, cams, crank, covers are all machined. There is sediment that is not removed during the wash process. I can tell you 100% certainty. I developed washer sediment specifications, and particle counts for the company I work for, as well as benchmarking other automotive companies (including BMW, VW, ETC).

The reality is the engine leaves the factory with elevated sediment from the manufacturing process, and then the engine while breaking it generates sediment. The sediment is directional bad for engine wear, it's that simple. I've seen engine warranty returns within 5000 miles because of sediment in the high pressure oil cavacities feeding the main bearings. They are very fragile.

The reality is does it make a difference for you? If you plan to trade the car in 40k, probably not. If you plan to keep it 200k, I would change the oil by 1000 miles.

 

[Zee09]

I never change the oil on my VW. The only thing I change is the gas because I have to.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

IMO it won't matter.

I haven't seen any proof that the initial wear generated by a new engine is itself abrasive.

This is a nuanced point because all new engines generate more wear particles before being fully broken in.

 

[kschachn]

IMO it won't matter.

I haven't seen any proof that the initial wear generated by a new engine is itself abrasive.

This is a nuanced point because all new engines generate more wear particles before being fully broken in.

Now go way back with filter technology from way back and perhaps break in oil changes were required because the wear itself was abrasive.

Anything that actually shows up on an ICP analysis is too small to cause wear.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Anything that actually shows up on an ICP analysis is too small to cause wear.

Speaking of UOA's have we ever seen one which included a particle count?

 

[kschachn]

Speaking of UOA's have we ever seen one which included a particle count?

Even if we did I would like to see an SEM/EDX analysis of the particles since not all particles are the same in regards to wear.

 

[RAVL]

The cylinder bores now that a much different microfinish, a lot narrower RVK, RPK, RK, RA, etc, cylinder bore surface finish. The cylinder bores require much less break in, and the break in on them generate a lot less material.

However, the rest of the engine is machined as normal. The block, head, cams, crank, covers are all machined. There is sediment that is not removed during the wash process. I can tell you 100% certainty. I developed washer sediment specifications, and particle counts for the company I work for, as well as benchmarking other automotive companies (including BMW, VW, ETC).

The reality is the engine leaves the factory with elevated sediment from the manufacturing process, and then the engine while breaking it generates sediment. The sediment is directional bad for engine wear, it's that simple. I've seen engine warranty returns within 5000 miles because of sediment in the high pressure oil cavacities feeding the main bearings. They are very fragile.

The reality is does it make a difference for you? If you plan to trade the car in 40k, probably not. If you plan to keep it 200k, I would change the oil by 1000 miles.

It does not and has not made a difference to me, and I keep cars a long time, at least 150k. I don’t do break in oil changes (unless the manufacturer says to do it) and I have never had a car with a serious engine problem. It is all the other stuff that breaks.

 

[Thermo1223]

Up until about the 80's, most euro car makers suggested the first oil change at 1,000 miles since most of the wear happens then as the microscopic high points on the sliding surfaces wear off and shed into the oil. To give an impression of low maintenance, they stopped recommending that, yet the engines are still made of the same steel, aluminum and bearing materials as they were back then. Will it make a difference in engine life? Who knows, but no engine wore out or broke from too frequent oil changes.

All things aside engines are not made the same as they were in the 80's be it metallurgy, casting, finishing, & bearing material. The tolerances in some cases are tighter. To another point an engine can last 100k under the worst possible maintenance as well.

 

[930.engineering]

,
Did you have a read up of post #32?
.