Does catalytic cleaner fuel additive actually work?

Joined
Mar 4, 2009
Messages
60
Location
MI
I've been getting a check engine light about every 500 miles and it's always for "low catalytic efficiency". Doesn't affect driveability but the light prevents my remote start from working.

Does catalytic cleaner fuel additive help, or is it snake oil?

2010 Chev Traverse, 135k miles
 
Some guys on a Nissan Forum I frequent tried Cataclean, and it solved there problem for about a month then it came back. So I would consider it snake oil.

Are the plugs new, etc? That's pretty low miles for a cat issue I would think?
 
A bottle of Cataclean every 5k or so limped our RX330 along for ~40k.
-The vehicle passed Colorado "fast-pass" emissions using the product (I had reset the light so they would test it).
-CEL came on at 252k and finally got tired of resetting the light and replaced the converters at 291k.
 
Last edited:
We used to sell Cataclean where I worked (we did emissions tests there also, before they were done away with in our province). Apparently it did work in some cases, though I can't say I saw proof.
 
I would change your O2 sensors as they do get lazy with age and mileage. Doing so might also improve your gas mileage.
O2 sensors involved in the cat efficiency determination? Some other connection?
 
Neither. It really doesn't work that well. It can do some cleaning and freed up a float in the gas tank of my MKZ (the fuel gauge used to takes minutes or even up to an hour to get to show full after filling up.) Other than that, was worthless...

It may help in some cases but the issue is that it is vastly overpriced. The MKZ is stilling showing below threshold on both (3) cats and I suspect it is more of a computer module issue. However, I was able to get my 06' Taurus to pass inspection, but the readings in my scanner shoot up and down but I can get it to pass at least short term. The CE light comes back on then will stay off for a while after reset.

Avoid the high priced cat cleaners that are pushing $30 for a 15 oz bottle. I would try Berryman's B12 before any of those, maybe a couple cans on a short half or 1/4 tank. The real bomb for me was Kano Kreen, that seemed to cut down the numbers short term. I also used a GDI intake cleaner that definitely helped as well. If you use the Kreen follow directions and try letting the car idle cold to op temp before driving out on the highway. You can reset the CEL then drive the reset procedure by finding the best way to reset Nissan modules and see if it comes close enough to pass. I think most can get most cars that are borderline threshold to pass inspection, but it might take some time and be frustrating and the CEL might well come back on but the point is to be legal for state inspections. A lot depends on why the cats are reading spoiled. They may be fine but the computer is off and you can try flashing it with a scanner or cutting the battery. Sometimes like my Taurus you drove it misfiring or needing a tune up which may have led to deposits. But removing deposits in the fuel system is maybe a first step and might help the cat(s). Good luck..
 
Last edited:
I've been getting a check engine light about every 500 miles and it's always for "low catalytic efficiency". Doesn't affect driveability but the light prevents my remote start from working.

Does catalytic cleaner fuel additive help, or is it snake oil?

2010 Chev Traverse, 135k miles
If your CAT has issues, you need to solve the poor way the engine is running which most likely caused the damage to the converter(s). Converters should last a lot longer than 135k miles. The O2 sensor most likely is just doing its job. They often get changed when in fact they still are functioning properly.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: hrv
P0420 is a bad cat. You can try all the tricks and change parts but sooner or later you will need a new cat. All the while the cat is partially choked off and probably costing you gas mileage. Bad O2 sensors have their own codes.
 
P0420 is a bad cat. You can try all the tricks and change parts but sooner or later you will need a new cat. All the while the cat is partially choked off and probably costing you gas mileage. Bad O2 sensors have their own codes.
Catalyst efficiency is gauged by the oxygen sensors, there is no separate or independent means of determining its operation.
 
Catalyst efficiency is gauged by the oxygen sensors, there is no separate or independent means of determining its operation.
Yes indeed! When the functioning post cat O2 says its bad the cat is bad.

But you can still drive it as it slowly clogs and robs you of power. My son drove his until it would not go over 35 mph on the road.
 
How can I tell for sure between marginal O2 sensors and bad cats?

Engine is running fine. New plugs, new battery (hence new reset), clean MAF & TB, not burning oil. Cats are **** expensive--i don't want to be guessing at this.
 
Boy I'd want A LOT of feedback before I pour a hot solvent like this in my tank.
I use that in my gas. Make sure it's the 50/50 and not the new stuff with methanol. A liter to 10 gallons. It always improves my gas mileage about 2-3 mpg and for the next two tanks too.

But on my bad cat Accent, I took the top O2 out and poured a gallon of that slowly though the cat. It sits vertical on the front of the motor.

Biggest smoke show you ever saw but still bad cat.
 
How can I tell for sure between marginal O2 sensors and bad cats?

Engine is running fine. New plugs, new battery (hence new reset), clean MAF & TB, not burning oil. Cats are **** expensive--i don't want to be guessing at this.

Very surprising you had catalytic converter failure at such low mileage with no contributing factors like oil consumption or some other engine management issue.
 
Back
Top