Catalytic Converter Safe Oil?

[carl1963]

I have a Chevy Equinox with the infamous 2.4L Ecotec nearing 200k miles. It's a great running engine and I just replaced the timing chain last year. The transmission and body are in good shape so I have no plans to get a different car any time soon.

Now onto the problem: the check engine light came on a few months ago for catalytic converter efficiency then went off within a couple days. It came on a few weeks ago and stayed on. It burns about a quart of oil every thousand miles and has done so for the last 120k miles. I can only assume that the countless quarts of oil being burned and sent through the catalytic converter has damaged it to where it doesn't function anymore. A new cat from GM is roughly $900 before tax, the aftermarket ones never seem to work or last and of course a used one isn't an option.

So, I'm wondering if there is an oil that is less detrimental to catalytic converters? I know there's oil that is worse (ones that contain high zinc like Redline) but I'm not aware of any that are less harmful to cats. I was thinking possibly PUP made from natural gas might burn "cleaner" if that makes any sense.

I just can't see taking on a $600+ car payment for the next 5 years on a 2024 Equinox when I can keep this one going for far cheaper. I think I've averaged $50 a month in maintenence and repairs over the last few years. I do all my own work so labor is free, parts are cheap and easy to find. I'd also have to learn all the problems and shortcomings of the new body style when I'm already well versed in the 2010-2017 generation. I'm also concerned with long term reliability of that 1.5T with stop/start and all the electronics the new ones have. The 6 speed carried over from the '10-'17 gen so at least that's familiar.

 

[Revving2Redline]

doesn't matter, if it's eating oil it's eating oil. Until you fix the consumption issue the PO420 mafia is coming for ya. In a 10,000 mile oci I might eat a quart but part of that is kissing the tachometer into VTEC but if I drive it sensible I can usually get only a qt of top off. Still on factory converter at 326000 miles . Waiting impatiently to put on my Magnaflow Sport Converter with lower cell count and all. Got to break in at 5 minutes at idle, 2 minutes around 2k RPM then let cool off to mat the insides properly.

 

[JavierH19]

Really just any thick vanilla 40 or 50 grade oil like 10w-40 or 20w-50 since I've read of ecotects burning a lot less and still run good but I would try replacing the pcv since they're known to have issues. You can also try cleaning the rings with a high ester based oil. Look into hpl in a thicker grade though it'd try the first two.

 

[redhat]

My vote would be to try cleaning up the engine to reduce oil consumption, go up to some flavor of 40wt that you enjoy and additionally, if you do think you're sending a lot of oil through the PCV system to install a catch can.

 

[cheesepuffs2]

Is there any other new vehicle that you'd consider besides another Equinox? Why go back for a second one when your current one has had an issue this severe?

If I were you, I would do a Berryman's B12 piston soak and see if that frees the rings up enough to make a difference in the consumption. As for oil, all of the current spec oils are very cat friendly, but the High Mileage oils sometimes advertise an extra effort to substitute even more cat friendly additives into the formulation.

 

[Patman]

The Mobil 1 lineup of ESP oils are formulated to prolong the life of the emissions systems. ESP stands for Emissions Systems Protection. It comes in 0w20, 0w30, 5w30 and 0w40.

 

[4WD]

The Mobil 1 lineup of ESP oils are formulated to prolong the life of the emissions systems. ESP stands for Emissions Systems Protection. It comes in 0w20, 0w30, 5w30 and 0w40.

Our Walmart just started to carry ESP and it’s $8 less than AZ … just $2 more than the other M1’s … ($30/jug) …

 

[nickaluch]

I have a 2.4 oil consuming engine. I would check for a recall on the converter . I had my converter go out was just about to have it changed out but found a recall notification from GM in my car folder they mailed to me years earlier. I did cut my consumption down by using Valvoline white bottle 10/30 Dino it's not a syn blend.

 

[Astro14]

On a 200,000 mile Chevy, the P0420 code could be caused by actual cat efficiency, or a weak O2 Sensor, either upstream or downstream.

First step, is a good upstream sensor, no aftermarket junk, but a good brand.

Then, try a downstream sensor.

Finally, just to know, you can run a sensor spacer on the downstream sensor to reduce its sensitivity.

I’ve used a couple of aftermarket cat/downpipes on the Volvos. They both took a spacer to get the computer to be happy. Your emissions regulations may vary from where I am.

That will take care of the code, but you need to slow down the consumption, if possible, and make sure you’re running the right oil.

Phosphorous is the thing in oil most likely to contaminate it, so, actually, the more modern the formulation (like SP) the more likely that oil will have low phosphorus in the formulation. Low SAPS oils will be more friendly to your cat.

 

[ATex7239]

+ 1 M1 ESP

I have had good luck with Magnaflow. $1000 cat every few years is still way cheaper than a car payment. I usually start mentally preparing for something to break and cost >$1,000 after 120K miles. Regardless of the vehicle. Some vehicles take longer for that to happen than others.

 

[Patman]

Our Walmart just started to carry ESP and it’s $8 less than AZ … just $2 more than the other M1’s … ($30/jug) …

I love the fact that ESP has been so readily available up here for a long time and is only priced a couple of bucks more than regular M1, but yet is clearly the better built oil.

 

[SC Maintenance]

If I may thread hijack first - what makes the 2.4l ecotec infamous?

I agree with a piston soak or berryman or HPL high ester - might do some good.

In theory, I thought the low SAPS euro oil's were supposed to be better for the Cat's? Not that 1 quart every 1000 it would matter - but in theory?

Have you tried cataclean? I usually would not recomend it - but if your issue is gunk from oil burn, might help temporarily. Also $900 for an OEM Cat is pretty cheap actually.

Best of luck to you, whichever you do.

 

[atikovi]

Can you gut the cat? And if you have emissions testing, add an O2 sensor spacer? And yes, junkyards won't sell used cats, but check Facebook. I see people parting cars that sell them all the time.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Welcome to BITOG Carl

Hang a Rosary from your Equinox's inside rear-view mirror. Every time you enter the key into the ignition, ask the Woman of the Rosary to allow you a safe two-way journey, without any financial incidents.
It works with Hyundai's and Kia's anyways.

 

[nascarnation]

If your state/locality doesn't have emissions inspection, one option is to just keep driving. The cat efficiency calculation doesn't effect the actual air/fuel mixture closed loop operation, that comes from the upstream sensor. BTW congrats on keeping your oil level topped up and your engine alive.

 

[Revving2Redline]

The Mobil 1 lineup of ESP oils are formulated to prolong the life of the emissions systems. ESP stands for Emissions Systems Protection. It comes in 0w20, 0w30, 5w30 and 0w40.

Is this a sort of oil that I could use after my car gets five or six hundred thousand miles if I start seeing massive consumption, And is it my understanding also that these are Euro, rated, so they have a slightly higher h.T h s

 

[carl1963]

My vote would be to try cleaning up the engine to reduce oil consumption, go up to some flavor of 40wt that you enjoy and additionally, if you do think you're sending a lot of oil through the PCV system to install a catch can.

I may install a catch can but I believe the problem is the loose tension rings that have been well documented on this engine.

Is there any other new vehicle that you'd consider besides another Equinox? Why go back for a second one when your current one has had an issue this severe?

If I were you, I would do a Berryman's B12 piston soak and see if that frees the rings up enough to make a difference in the consumption. As for oil, all of the current spec oils are very cat friendly, but the High Mileage oils sometimes advertise an extra effort to substitute even more cat friendly additives into the formulation.

There are other vehicles I'd consider but I do like the way the new Equinoxes look. They don't seem to be as problematic at the 10-17 generation but time will tell since the oldest of the new generation (2018) is only 6 years old. Aside from the oil burning, my Equinox has actually been the most reliable vehicle I've owned. It has never broken down or left me stranded. I will give the piston soak a try however I think the problem lies more in the loose-tension design rather than the rings being gummed up.

The Mobil 1 lineup of ESP oils are formulated to prolong the life of the emissions systems. ESP stands for Emissions Systems Protection. It comes in 0w20, 0w30, 5w30 and 0w40.

I will definitely look into ESP. Currently I run EP HM, change every 5k with a Wix filter and use Supertech full synthetic for tops offs between changes (only $20/5 quart jug)

I have a 2.4 oil consuming engine. I would check for a recall on the converter . I had my converter go out was just about to have it changed out but found a recall notification from GM in my car folder they mailed to me years earlier. I did cut my consumption down by using Valvoline white bottle 10/30 Dino it's not a syn blend.

Unfortunately no open recalls on my car

On a 200,000 mile Chevy, the P0420 code could be caused by actual cat efficiency, or a weak O2 Sensor, either upstream or downstream.

First step, is a good upstream sensor, no aftermarket junk, but a good brand.

Then, try a downstream sensor.

Finally, just to know, you can run a sensor spacer on the downstream sensor to reduce its sensitivity.

I’ve used a couple of aftermarket cat/downpipes on the Volvos. They both took a spacer to get the computer to be happy. Your emissions regulations may vary from where I am.

That will take care of the code, but you need to slow down the consumption, if possible, and make sure you’re running the right oil.

Phosphorous is the thing in oil most likely to contaminate it, so, actually, the more modern the formulation (like SP) the more likely that oil will have low phosphorus in the formulation. Low SAPS oils will be more friendly to your cat.

I knew it was a futile attempt but I replaced the downstream sensor and put a spacer on last week. It actually resulted in more codes so I took the spacer out.

+ 1 M1 ESP

I have had good luck with Magnaflow. $1000 cat every few years is still way cheaper than a car payment. I usually start mentally preparing for something to break and cost >$1,000 after 120K miles. Regardless of the vehicle. Some vehicles take longer for that to happen than others.

Knock on wood but fortunately nothing of that nature, the most expensive thing I've had to buy at one time for this car is tires. I definitely agree with you that $1000 every few years is cheaper than a new car. This is the original cat so if I can get another OEM cat to last 200k I will be more than happy.

If I may thread hijack first - what makes the 2.4l ecotec infamous?

I agree with a piston soak or berryman or HPL high ester - might do some good.

In theory, I thought the low SAPS euro oil's were supposed to be better for the Cat's? Not that 1 quart every 1000 it would matter - but in theory?

Have you tried cataclean? I usually would not recomend it - but if your issue is gunk from oil burn, might help temporarily. Also $900 for an OEM Cat is pretty cheap actually.

Best of luck to you, whichever you do.

While there's definitely worse motors out there, mention the name 2.4 ecotec around a mechanic and they probably won't have anything good to say. These engines have timing chain problems that are exacerbated by low oil, low tension piston rings that burn oil, and are usually owned by people who don't check their oil or change it often enough. This "trifecta" comes together and gives these engines a very bad name and causes a lot of these cars to go to the junkyard before 150k miles.

 

[4WD]

Welcome to BITOG Carl

Hang a Rosary from your Equinox's inside rear-view mirror. Every time you enter the key into the ignition, ask the Woman of the Rosary to allow you a safe two-way journey, without any financial incidents.
It works with Hyundai's and Kia's anyways.

Once H/K runs out of free motors - I’ll see more of them with the magnetic lights on the back headed to the border …

 

[dumkid]

This is a bad idea but what if you just put a new cat after the old cat.

Does the cel stay off with highway cruising? I would get a p0420 in my montero if I drove slowly or not very far but if I spent a little time at 60 mph it would stay off. Eventually I got a bank 1 lean code, replaced the front 02 sensors (they took like 20 seconds to react between coasting and accelerating changes in AFR) so I replaced the front sensors and both codes are gone.

 

[Patman]

Is this a sort of oil that I could use after my car gets five or six hundred thousand miles if I start seeing massive consumption, And is it my understanding also that these are Euro, rated, so they have a slightly higher h.T h s

That is correct, the ESP lineup has a lot of European certifications and has higher HTHS than a lot of other oils too. I can't say for sure that it would help if you had "massive consumption" though. At that point no oil is going to save a dying engine.