On my dad's chebby tree fiddy I can install a full filter without spilling a drop, so I do.
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Do you fill your filter before installing it?
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I do fill the filter, always.
On the Colt where the filter sits vertically, I fill it completely, on the others where it sits horizontally I fill them half (and rotate them so the filter element is well soaked - I noticed it takes as much as half a liter, even on these tiny filters.
Before I wasn't pre filling the filters, and noticed there was more engine rattle at startup. I don't think it really makes a huge difference, but pre-filling doesn't cost me anything so I always do now.
On the Colt where the filter sits vertically, I fill it completely, on the others where it sits horizontally I fill them half (and rotate them so the filter element is well soaked - I noticed it takes as much as half a liter, even on these tiny filters.
Before I wasn't pre filling the filters, and noticed there was more engine rattle at startup. I don't think it really makes a huge difference, but pre-filling doesn't cost me anything so I always do now.
I started to fill it to the brim like how some folks top of their gas tank. You know? pump gas, then it clicks, then pull the nozzle out then keep pumping til it almost comes out the fill tube.
Last year I got a chance to fill since I got a truck that installed gasket up. So I filled it, then it settled and absorbed into the media, and I kept this up. I think that was my first oil change (at least in a long while) where I didn't spill one drop.
But this last time, I just poured fresh oil into the filter until it was full- then quit. It probably took 4 ounces like this versus probably 8 ounces like the old way.
Don't want to overdo it!
Edit: after reading Popsy's post. I guess it takes more like 12 ounces if you keep topping up and maybe 6 ounces if you just pour until full then quit!
Last year I got a chance to fill since I got a truck that installed gasket up. So I filled it, then it settled and absorbed into the media, and I kept this up. I think that was my first oil change (at least in a long while) where I didn't spill one drop.
But this last time, I just poured fresh oil into the filter until it was full- then quit. It probably took 4 ounces like this versus probably 8 ounces like the old way.
Don't want to overdo it!
Edit: after reading Popsy's post. I guess it takes more like 12 ounces if you keep topping up and maybe 6 ounces if you just pour until full then quit!
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Yes. Most of mine mount straight down.
My preferred XG5 for Chevy takes almost a full quart.
My DBL7349's take almost 2.
My preferred XG5 for Chevy takes almost a full quart.
My DBL7349's take almost 2.
I used to pre-lube all the time. Always makes a mess for my application and makes the filter more difficult to get spun on in a tight spot. Seems to end up covering the outside of the filter making it more difficult to get a proper tightness.
Now I install it empty and put my gas pedal to the floor while I crank which turns off the fuel. I do this for 10-15 seconds to circulate the oil. No mess. I don't have to wipe down the filter. Easier to check it for leaks... And I sleep well at night.
Now I install it empty and put my gas pedal to the floor while I crank which turns off the fuel. I do this for 10-15 seconds to circulate the oil. No mess. I don't have to wipe down the filter. Easier to check it for leaks... And I sleep well at night.
I add about six/eight ounces of oil to the YZZD1 Toyota oil filter,which is enough to saturate the filter media but still doesn't puke oil when I install it.Been doing that so long I can't stop. As for the efficacy, who knows?
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Not on my Explorer (even though the filter is installed base up), but definitely on my PSD. It holds more than 1 quart and (IMHO) that is too much oil to fill a filter after an OC. It is installed base up, so it is not a big deal to do it.
Originally Posted By: getnpsi
1980s fords with turbo have a feature if you crank at WOT it will not put in fuel, to make sure the turbo has oil pressure on start after service.
I wish I had known this, I did some damage (electrical) to my '84 Turbo Coupe one time by disconnecting the coil wire (instead of the power plug, dummy) trying to get oil to the turbo before starting it after an oil change.
1980s fords with turbo have a feature if you crank at WOT it will not put in fuel, to make sure the turbo has oil pressure on start after service.
I wish I had known this, I did some damage (electrical) to my '84 Turbo Coupe one time by disconnecting the coil wire (instead of the power plug, dummy) trying to get oil to the turbo before starting it after an oil change.
New oil is filthy...no way I would put new oil on the clean side (that's the centre side on most) and feed that straight into the engine.
After reading Dr Dave's results on particle counts as a filter ages,
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4053638/Re:_2013_Sportster_1200_5000_m#Post4053638
I'm planning on doing my oil changes on a blinded filter, and THEN changing the filter out a week or so later.
That way the filter stays filled, the dirty oil stays on the dirty side, and the new oil gets filtered with the best (actual) filter it's going to see for the duration.
Then the clean filter gets the clean(ed) oil.
After reading Dr Dave's results on particle counts as a filter ages,
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4053638/Re:_2013_Sportster_1200_5000_m#Post4053638
I'm planning on doing my oil changes on a blinded filter, and THEN changing the filter out a week or so later.
That way the filter stays filled, the dirty oil stays on the dirty side, and the new oil gets filtered with the best (actual) filter it's going to see for the duration.
Then the clean filter gets the clean(ed) oil.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
I'm planning on doing my oil changes on a blinded filter, and THEN changing the filter out a week or so later.
That way the filter stays filled, the dirty oil stays on the dirty side, and the new oil gets filtered with the best (actual) filter it's going to see for the duration.
Then the clean filter gets the clean(ed) oil.
That's not a bad idea and it makes a good case for using a filter like the Fram Ultra for multiple oci's where you can get the advantage of a higher efficiency filter in case your new oil is extra "filthy".
I have always prefilled my filters using the inlet holes so to at least filter it somewhat. It takes much longer to get it full but worth it to me, especially with truck engine filters holding about a gallon each. I even prefill my FL500S on the Taurus.
I'm planning on doing my oil changes on a blinded filter, and THEN changing the filter out a week or so later.
That way the filter stays filled, the dirty oil stays on the dirty side, and the new oil gets filtered with the best (actual) filter it's going to see for the duration.
Then the clean filter gets the clean(ed) oil.
That's not a bad idea and it makes a good case for using a filter like the Fram Ultra for multiple oci's where you can get the advantage of a higher efficiency filter in case your new oil is extra "filthy".
I have always prefilled my filters using the inlet holes so to at least filter it somewhat. It takes much longer to get it full but worth it to me, especially with truck engine filters holding about a gallon each. I even prefill my FL500S on the Taurus.
Originally Posted By: Shannow
New oil is filthy...no way I would put new oil on the clean side (that's the centre side on most) and feed that straight into the engine.
Probably makes sense NOT to shake an oil bottle/jug before pouring. I've seen dirt at the bottom of oil bottles before.
New oil is filthy...no way I would put new oil on the clean side (that's the centre side on most) and feed that straight into the engine.
Probably makes sense NOT to shake an oil bottle/jug before pouring. I've seen dirt at the bottom of oil bottles before.
Skid,
Dude, that is probably additives that you need!
Are you playing, because it has been said over and over on this site.
Dude, that is probably additives that you need!
Are you playing, because it has been said over and over on this site.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Skid,
Dude, that is probably additives that you need!
Are you playing, because it has been said over and over on this site.
No. I'm serious. The additives should be soluble/unfilterable. If you really filter fine, probably the first thing that drops out would be VII, but you would need to go to reverse osmosis membranes to filter that out.
Skid,
Dude, that is probably additives that you need!
Are you playing, because it has been said over and over on this site.
No. I'm serious. The additives should be soluble/unfilterable. If you really filter fine, probably the first thing that drops out would be VII, but you would need to go to reverse osmosis membranes to filter that out.
Originally Posted By: Skid
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Skid,
Dude, that is probably additives that you need!
Are you playing, because it has been said over and over on this site.
No. I'm serious. The additives should be soluble/unfilterable. If you really filter fine, probably the first thing that drops out would be VII, but you would need to go to reverse osmosis membranes to filter that out.
Further to the above, see this article from Blackstone:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/April-1-2012.php
They tested some old oils shaken and not shaken. Their conclusion:
Quote:
It’s hard to say, but from that test I learned that when it’s done right, the additives actually become part of the oil during blending and time/gravity alone won’t cause them to separate back out.
That settled it. I didn’t need to shake all of these oils and could just start running them.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Skid,
Dude, that is probably additives that you need!
Are you playing, because it has been said over and over on this site.
No. I'm serious. The additives should be soluble/unfilterable. If you really filter fine, probably the first thing that drops out would be VII, but you would need to go to reverse osmosis membranes to filter that out.
Further to the above, see this article from Blackstone:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/Newsletters/Gas-Diesel/April-1-2012.php
They tested some old oils shaken and not shaken. Their conclusion:
Quote:
It’s hard to say, but from that test I learned that when it’s done right, the additives actually become part of the oil during blending and time/gravity alone won’t cause them to separate back out.
That settled it. I didn’t need to shake all of these oils and could just start running them.
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Originally Posted By: rkpatt
Generally no, but the FL1995 oil filter on 7.3 Ford diesel holds approx 2 qts which would mean a fairly long dry start time if the filter was not prefilled.
Generally no, but the FL1995 oil filter on 7.3 Ford diesel holds approx 2 qts which would mean a fairly long dry start time if the filter was not prefilled.
I try to put oil in the filter to avoid dry starts, but usually am impatient as the oil slowly levels out and fill only half way. Dry starts aren't probably the best but since 99% of cars always get them, combined with a flooring of the gas pedal in many cases, they can't be that destructive either. Through the center hole method. When something works for decades, through a number of cars lives, don't need to fix it. I never shake oil jugs or bottles, and never see anything in them except oil film. Notice Cat says use a microscope to see the fine non metallic particles in new oil. I can live life unworried with not doing that.
Ok, I know we like to obsess on this forum, but this takes the prize. First, unless brand new, or a rebuild, it's not empty. You most likely ran it before the change, it's well coated, and it's shouldn't take much time between drain and refill. Trying to get much oil in a vertical (upside down) or horizontal filter, and get it on the car sounds like poor idea, that is bound for mediocre results at best. I put the the filter on, fill the crankcase, and start er up and let it idle. Let's see, òil remained from previous fill, new oil poured through engine, and idle is a no load condition, what's the reason to try to fill the filter? I would venture a guess that literally millions of cars over multiple millions of miles without filling the filter at oil change with no identifiable failures is good enough for me. I'll obsess about something else....like the difference between QSUD, Synpower, PP, etc!
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