I "think" the held view here is that one (for lack of a a better term) "dry"start every X thousand miles is a far different thing than one every start.
Here's a trick for pre filling filters
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I "think" the held view here is that one (for lack of a a better term) "dry"start every X thousand miles is a far different thing than one every start.
In the absence of a rating system, YT videos are chancy to play.
So many are bad.
Too many are lacking info.
Way too many are horribly amateurish.
Thanks for the suggestion. I too use a large oil filter that doesn’t have an ADBV and the engine has piston oiling nozzles with small orifices. I have also noticed that the filter isn’t full when doing an oil change but it’s not dry either. This occurrence is more pronounced when using the Stratapore filters. They evidently flow very well in both directions. Higher oil levels in the cellulose filters when they are removed.
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On my cummins the filter holds a whole quart. It seems the only time mine are completely up to the top of the filter is if it was recently run. I'm not a fan of changing oil on a hot engine, at best I let it run for 5 minutes or so beforehand so it's atleast warm. Most times if it's hot enough outside I change it in the morning, before starting.
Just use clear flood mode which I believe just about every OBDII vehicle has. Much simpler.
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Likely hundreds of starts in an OCI, right …?
I’m not positive but I don’t think the Cummins has the clear flood mode.
I usually change mine after it has been run and up to temperature. I pull the drain plug and let it drain for atleast an hour and it usually pulls about half the oil out of the filter. Also use the filter plug.
Engine noise due to either a non-functional ADBV or not pre-filling the oil filter during an oil change is pretty dependent on the engine. I've done many oil changes without pre-filling the filter, and never got any engine noises upon initial start-up.
I've also timed the difference to achieve oil pressure without and with pre-filling the filter, and it cut the time to less than half when pre-filling (5 to 2 sec).
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If you're going to pre fill it takes 3-4 pours plus time for the oil level in the filter to sink down between pours before there's actually enough oil in there to even make it worthwhile. So 20 seconds, I don't think so.
Yeah I had some previous posters get me all worried about pouring in the center.....until that motor oil geek guy that knows more than most of us on here did some testing he's posted on YouTube and proved that the oil were pouring in is cleaner than it will ever be after that. Myth debunked. Just fill the filter if you can with fresh oil. No reason not to, other than laziness.
When I was still working in the Pennzoil express lube about 11 years ago, I always pre filled vertical filters. I didn't pre fill cartridge filters until I experimented with 2.2 Ecotecs in Cobalts. The timing chain cracked like crazy on them on a dry start after changing the oil. Then I poured oil around the entire cartridge filter before reinstalling it and no more noise. I never heard another one clack after doing that. It was slightly annoying to do compared to a vertical canister filter but it proved to me that pre filling is absolutely worth it.
I 100% disagree. If you're fussy like me you can refill it 4 times to get it full. Or you can just fill it once and roll it around until it soaks through the media. Same result as the cartridge filter soaking that I just posted about which completely eliminated the timing chain noise. So if you're too lazy to bother doing it at all ..then why are you here on this site in the first place?
This time I used the forum search function and the precise amount of time that it takes to pre-fill an oil filter adjusted for frequency and degree of pedantic comments among 14,754 posts on the subject is exactly 47.32 seconds...
The point is that it is a simple task
I do it and would advise others to do the same if possible.Lake Speed Jr. did a particle count test on new oil from the bottle and showed it was far cleaner than oil that was poured from the valve cover, into the sump, especially concerning particles of size where oil filters are typically effective at removal. I am not in the least bit worried about the tiny volume of unfiltered oil after an oil change. I am pretty sure SOPUS and Exxon Mobil run their product through filters far better than my engine oil filter before bottling.
Oil that was poured from the valve cover into the sump? Or you mean oil taken from the sump?
I'd have to rewatch the video, but I'm pretty sure one of his specimens was new oil, poured from the bottle into an empty engine. Then he took a sample from the sump, without running the motor, and did a particle count on it. Additional counts were done after running the engine. I think some were done where he purposefully introduced particulate contaminant to see how much the filter would/could remove.
The conclusion was that merely pouring the oil into the test stand motor made the oil magnitudes "dirtier" than it was from the bottle.
Granted, his videos are pretty 101 compared to bitog tribal knowledge.
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This thread spins circles for free.
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I think you're addressing the wrong party here. Go back and read again, let it soak in, ya know like said oil filters we're discussing. Why am I here in the first place? You're the one that misunderstood, then you have the nerve to ask why I'm here. Wow
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What's a simple task. Search function or pre- filling?This time I used the forum search function and the precise amount of time that it takes to pre-fill an oil filter adjusted for frequency and degree of pedantic comments among 14,754 posts on the subject is exactly 47.32 seconds...
The point is that it is a simple task
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