Originally Posted by Lowflyer
Originally Posted by A_Harman
I have used RBF600 in my Camaro for 16 years, in my Dodge for 10 years, and in my Corvette for 15 years.
1.WOW^2. I didn't know that RBF600 is insomuch old stuff...
2. d... f... s...
After crash Tb 3 yeras ago I lost more emails. Also a few I have correspond with Motul abouzt 5.1 and RBFs. That, whereat I spoke.
3. The only one what was and still is, are the actuelly datasheets:
600
"Specially designed to resist to high temperature of racing actuated brake (steel or carbon) and clutch
systems.
Exceeds DOT 5.1 and DOT 3 standards also, except for viscosity at -40°C (-40°F).
660
"Specially designed to resist to extreme temperature generated by racing carbonand ceramic brakes
allowing minimizingair entrance for brake cooling .
Can be also used with conventional steel discs and clutch systems actuators.
Widely exceeds DOT 3, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 standards (except for DOT 5.1 viscosity at -40°C)."
4. RBF is, as mentioned, OK. But since 660 I see no one reason to use 600.
I considered using RBF660 years ago, but I checked the wet boiling point. It was identical to the RBF600 at 204C. One should pick a racing brake fluid based on the wet boiling point, not the dry boiling point. Dry boiling point is only for advertising. Real performance on the track is governed by wet boiling point. After a brake fluid container is opened, and the fluid has been exposed to the atmosphere, dry boiling point becomes irrelevant, especially if you ever drive your car in the rain. So I decided to save a few bucks and go with RBF600. Many years later, I am still alive to tell the tale.