Needs bonding wire from hot to cold and a proper ground too.
Are these Pex lines at risk of disconnecting? What's wrong with this water heater?
- Thread starter Owen Lucas
- Start date
Because the waterpipe is often used as one of the two required grounds, the other being a ground rod. Normally (in newer construction anyway) the ground is connected where the pipe comes out of the foundation but in older houses where the code may not have required that, it could be connected further away, like at the water heater.
I watch his videos all the time
You make it sound so easy, you should open up a few trades-based businesses, make billions and retire in 3-4 years with multiple homes, boats, and even a G5 plane!
The only tricky part is that you have to be licensed in that trade and they're much tougher than they used to be. Typically have to actually work in that trade for 3 years and prove it with tax returns.
No joke, sounds like the owners of the plumbing businesses in my area.
Of course that's metro Atlanta but I think where a lot of the conflicting aspects are is trying to compare metro gougers to small town decent businesses.
My house would be piped with either Type K copper or CPVC.
Bad idea today. Type L copper would bankrupt you and CPVC is complete garbage compared to Type A Pex
The ONLY water piping I would allow in my house would be Type A Pex….
After being a pipe fitter/welder/teacher and holding a journeyman's card in plumbing, for 39 years, I think I know just a little bit about pipe.
Yeah but are you familiar with these specifications?
PIPE SPECIFICATIONS
1. All pipe is to be made of a long hole, surrounded by metal or plastic, centered around the hole.
2. All pipe is to be hollow throughout the entire length – do not use holes of different length than the pipe.
3. The I.D. (inside diameter) of all pipe must not exceed the O.D. (outside diameter) – otherwise the hole will be on the outside of said pipe.
4. All pipe is to be supplied with nothing in the hole, so that water, steam or other stuff can be put inside at a later date.
5. All pipe should be supplied without rust – This can be more readily applied at the job site. Some vendors are now able to supply pre-rusted pipe. If available in your area, this product is recommended as it will save a lot of time on the job site.
6. All pipe over 500 feet (153m) in length should have the words “long pipe” clearly painted on each end, so the Contractor will know it is a long pipe.
7. Pipe over 2 miles (3.2 km) in length must have the words “very long pipe” painted in the middle, so the Contractor will not have to walk the entire length of the pipe to determine whether or not it is a long pipe, or a very long pipe.
8. All pipe over 6” (152 mm) in diameter must have the words “large pipe” painted on it, so the Contractor will not mistake it for a small pipe.
9. Flanges must be used on all pipe. Flanges must have holes for bolts quite separate from the big hole in the middle.
10. When ordering 90 degrees, 45 degrees or 30 degrees elbow, be sure to specify right hand or left hand; otherwise you will end up going the wrong way.
11. Be sure to specify to your vendor whether you want level, uphill, or downhill pipe. If you use downhill pipe for going uphill, the water will flow the wrong way.
12. All couplings should have either right hand or left hand thread, but do not mix the threads - otherwise, as the coupling is being screwed on one pipe, it is unscrewed from the other.
13. All pipe is to be of the very best quality, preferably tubular or pipular.
14. All acid-proof pipe is to made of acid-proof metal.
15. All pipe is to be free of any covering such as mud, tar, barnacles or any form of manure before putting up, otherwise it will make lumps under the paint.
16. All pipe closures are to be open on one end.
17. All pipe fittings are to be made of the same stuff as the pipe.
18. Pipe specified as "Straight Pipe" shall not have fittings within its length, otherwise it becomes "Crooked Pipe."
BLAH, BLAH, BLAH!
Are you trying to teach an EX pipe fitter/welder/teacher/journeyman plumber, new tricks?
OR, did you post all of that to try and make me look stupid?
I don't claim to know EVERYTHING, but l did/do have 39 years experience working with pipe.
I chose Type K copper and/or CPVC because it had/has NEVER let me down. Everyone has their choice on what type of pipe they want/like to use. Stop trying to educate me. Educate someone else that needs it.
CAPEESH?
I think he posted all of that to get you to laugh!
It's humor. Read it. It's not meant to be taken seriously!
I'm not laughing.
It's an old joke, just wondering if you had heard of it. Guess not. I always liked #3.
Sorry, I just read the intro and saw red. I guess you can tell I take my career very seriously.
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Only a true tradesman would understand
Now you're quoting your own posts? I understand why tradesmen go there. You can put stuff on account and it's easy in and out not the mad house at the checkout at Home Depot and the service is much better and you just bill it to the customer. What's there not to like? Unless you're the customer. So you just tell the customer it's a better water heater and they won't know if it's true or not after 6-10 years. Never noticed if one brand was actually better than the other, they all lasted about the same amount of time. One of my 20+ year water heater where I changed the anode is a Home Depot water heater or rather a GE which I think is just a relabeled Rheem/Rudd.
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No separate water cutoff for the water heater?
Owen Lucas
$100 Site Donor 2023
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It didn't look like it. I'm as scared of his system as I am turning a 90 year old water valve!
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