A few Q's regarding oil and my volvo D12 engine

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I have a few questions, first off some info. I have a 99 Volvo 770 rig, with the volvo D12 engine. Current mileage is 1.4 million KM's, about 850,000 miles. I currently use Rotella T oil, changed every 25,000 miles. I have not done a UOA.

First question, what oil do you guys recommend? I see Rotella T does not seem to have a good reputation on this board. Would schaeffers 9000 foot the bill?

My jake brake does not seem to work very well no matter what oil I use, but the oil does make a difference. I found it works best with Rotella T,(compared to mobil) but after a few thousand miles performance is hindered. Will a better quality oil help me out with this?

The engine has 2 primary oil filters and a bypass oil filter, will an aftermarket bypass system help extend my drain intervals? What do you gents recommend?

Thanks for any replies!
 
Nothing wrong with Rotella T. Your a good example, 850K on it and still running.

What oil would I recommend. Like I said, nothing wrong with the "T". For a upgrade I would go with either Schaeffers or Texas Refinery Corp. (TRC). Personally I use TRC.

As far as the jakes go, when is the last time you had your overhead run? It almost sounds like they may be out of adjustment. Oil viscosity also plays a big role in the jake operation as you have found out. As the oil thickens up from soot loading it can effect the jakes performance. What viscosity are you running, 10W/30 or 15W/40? Up north where you are you may find that a 10W/30 might perform better for you in the cold months.

The bypass filter that is factory on your engine probably does down to something like 5-10 micron. The majority of aftermarket bypass filters do below 5 micron with 1 micron being the norm. I have used KleenOil bypass filters for a couple of years and had nothing but good thing's to say about them. I use them on engines and hydraulic systems. The KleenOil filter's are 1 micron filters. I have been able to almost tripple the oil change interval with the bypass filter and a regular scheduled UOA program.
 
The engine was rebuilt shortly after I bought it. I do a valve set once a year, and find it doesn't make much difference. I ask them how much they adjusted it, not much, most valves they don't even touch.

Oil pressure definitely isn't a problem. I've heard on cummins that can vary their oil pressure a lot, this will affect jake performance. Mine is ALWAYS at 60, except at idle.

I run 15w40.

I'll look into the Kleenoil, thank you for your reply!

I still have a barrel of rotella T left, so I have some time to decide what to do.
 
There isn't really anything wrong with regular Rotella, there are just better choices in the same price range. If you like the Rotella then keep using it, at 25,000 OCI on an over the road truck you'll be just fine. Does the engine have 850,000 miles on this rebuild, or total miles on the truck?

Sounds like your Jakes may need a tuneup besides the overhead being run. I find that after about 300,000 miles (varies depending on service type and maintenance) the orings can start to harden up and leak some oil pressure. The service kits are not terribly expensive and it's worth the time I think to tune them up every once in a while. The Jake overhaul really doesn't take long, especially if you plan on doing the valve adjust at the same time.

On a side note, although what you are doing is working fine judging from the mileage your engine is going, it'd be worth doing a UOA. UOA's are not an exact science, and you'll need to do two or three to get a good idea of what's going on. This will help isolate your Jake problem as being electromechanical or hydraulic related.
 
850,000 on the truck, 300,000 on the rebuild. I'll wait until fall to get the jakes worked on, that's when I usually do the valve set. On the Volvo's, they want to change the valve cover gasket every time it's opened, and it's pretty expensive, so I might as well wait until the valves should be looked at.

I plan on doing a UOA within the next few days. I didn't know anyone local that did them until the other gent recommended kleenoil. I looked up a dealer and there's one less then a mile from my shop. They also do oil analysis.

I'll do an analysis now, then install the bypass filter and run the same miles, and do another one. Would be neat to see how much they help. Maybe after that I'll consider changing oils.

Thanks guys, you've been a tremendous help!
 
Eventually I would like to extend my oil drain intervals, that's basically why I'm here. I don't want to screw this up!

One other thing, the sump holds 10 gallons and I've never had to add any oil between changes. I usually overfill it just a touch, since I fill it straight from the barrel and it's not exactly precise. I also do not work my engine very hard, mostly prairie miles with lighter loads, at 60 mph. I also do not idle the truck.
 
The new CJ-4 Rotella T 15w40 is better than ever. I'd stick with it. I don't think you're going to find anything that will protect any better. If you go the synthetic route you will have to significantly extend your OCIs and do UOAs to make up for the added cost.
 
I find that depending on the service type, and yours is pretty easy it sounds like, somewhere between 18-30,000 miles is about the safe limit running dino oil. As G-MAN says you would really have to extend your OCI's to save any money. I really can't recommend using synthetic oils in HD diesels like yours as a cost saving measure.

I do know some people that run long drains with synthetic oil, run 50K+ OCI's. They seem to be having good luck, no engine failures and good UOA's on these long drain trucks. They are running Spinner II's (at least I think there Spinner II's, might be some other brand) as well as the factory spin-on bypass. This is on a decent size fleet that did UOA's anyways, so that cost really wasn't factored in.
 
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As G-MAN says you would really have to extend your OCI's to save any money.




Switching to synthetic for me wouldn't just be about saving money. I like the other benefits as well. However, I will see how rotella turns out on the analysis.

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I really can't recommend using synthetic oils in HD diesels like yours as a cost saving measure.




Why's that? I'm going to guess soot.

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I do know some people that run long drains with synthetic oil, run 50K+ OCI's. They seem to be having good luck, no engine failures and good UOA's on these long drain trucks. They are running Spinner II's (at least I think there Spinner II's, might be some other brand) as well as the factory spin-on bypass. This is on a decent size fleet that did UOA's anyways, so that cost really wasn't factored in.




Good to know, that's the type of info I want. I just bought a kleenoil system and plan on installing it tonight.
 
The reason I usually don't recommend synthetic oils in big diesels (like class 6+ trucks)is largely due to some of the tings I covered in my previous post. First is the OCI length, it has to be REALLY long to justify the additional cost of synthetic oil. We have Series 60 Detroit's and C15 CATs in the fleet that are approaching 1 million miles on whatever oil I can get on sale (usually unocal or Delo). The only major repair that any of these engines had were the 60's when they were fairly new had a liner recall from Detroit.

I like synthetic oil in severe duty applications such as engines with HEUI fuel systems (not necessary but helpful) and high temperature situations. Big diesels use coolant to oil coolers which keep sump temps under control. I just think it's unnecessary and quite expensive for the average truck operator.

Don't get me wrong, synthetic oil is great stuff and if you want to use it go for it. Most synthetic oil is at least double the price of Rotella/Delo/Castrol to begin with. For long drains I think UOA's are a requirement, so that adds to the cost of the OCI. Granted I do UOA's regardless of OCI length, however the longer the OCI the more important UOA's become IMO.

I have used synthetic oil in some engines that the senior drivers had in their trucks. They got the nice trucks and the good drivers of the high seniority bunch got more HP. I had several Big Cams and 3406's that had been turned up. On a couple of these engines I started having liner and skirt scuffing issues when they started heavy haul routes in hot weather. With synthetic oil in these engines with good drivers operating them those engines still achieved a “normal” LTO.

I think that the return for the cost is better with a good dino/semi-syn like Delo or Schaeffers and moderately long OCI's are a better way to go. There are other choices obviously such as Delvac and Amsoil. They are good oils no doubt, but quite expensive. Amsoil showed excellent performance in a guys N14 with high fuel dilution, there is a UOA of this truck in the Diesel UOA section here.

The thing is, when you are looking at large fleets of trucks the numbers are the most important thing to look at. How long can I make the equipment last for a given dollar spent. For a fleet of 1 or two trucks there is also a margin of Human involved. On my own stuff I spent a little extra money on oils and other stuff to hopefully prolong the life of my stuff. At work I typically see a hard part fail long before any oil related failure/wear takes an engine out of service. Even in cases of worn out rings, most of the time it's due to either begin dusted (leak in the intake track) or idle time that washes down the cylinder.

At some point you have to decide if you want to play it by the numbers or take a reasonable look at the numbers and then add a little warm and fuzzy in just because. Sounds like you really want to run a synthetic, so go for it. You definitely are not going to hurt anything and your engine will probably live longer baring any mechanical failures.
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If I were to switch to synthetic, cost wouldn't be the only factor. I simply like having the best on my truck, and cost isn't always a factor.

Regarding the UOA's, they are going to be done whether there is a switch to synthetic or not, so you can pretty much not count their cost.

I just sent off an UOA, I have my kleenoil system installed. I'm going to run the same amount of miles so I can do a side-by-side example of how much of a difference the kleenoil system makes. I'll keep you guys updated.

From there a cost analysis will be done on synthetic, and I'll ask you guys again since I'll have more information.

The problem with synthetic(I'd probably run schaeffers) is that it's hard to get around here. The closest dealer is across the US border.

With Rotella, I just call up the dealer, and they bring 2 drums right to the shop, and take the old ones away. That is definitely a factor!

Thanks for all the advice.
 
BTW, I'm not blaming rotella for the jake problem, or anything else. I currently don't really have a reason to switch, I'm actually quite happy with the rotella.
 
Not sure of the complexities of shipping across the border, but if you buy drums of Schaeffer they'll ship for free. I don't know if that includes shipping into Canada, however it couldn't hurt to ask. We have several Schaeffer dealers on the board that can help.

Rotella is good oil. Jake performance is definitely affected by oil type and condition, some oils may hold up better to being run through a Jake than others, doesn't mean the oil isn't doing a decent job of lubing the engine.

A particle count is also beneficial on a UOA when dealing with bypass filters as it really shows how effective the filters are. Let us know how it's working out.
 
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Not sure of the complexities of shipping across the border, but if you buy drums of Schaeffer they'll ship for free. I don't know if that includes shipping into Canada, however it couldn't hurt to ask. We have several Schaeffer dealers on the board that can help.




I just received a quote for 400-500 for shipping to Canada. Ouch. Total quote was around $1600 USD. That's $2000 Canadian. I pay about 1/4 of that for Rotella.
 
Well, I suppose that you'll either have to stick with Rotella, switch to some synthetic that is more available, or just wait until a trip is convenient and pickup a couple barrels in person.

If Rotella is serving you well just keep running it. The cost/mile has to be good with that oil providing the UOA looks good.
 
I'll look into the Rotella synthetic. Thanks for pointing that out, I didn't know Shell even made one.

Another question, what do you guys think of luberfiner filters? Very little came up on a search. I can get a great deal on these filters through a buddy, almost half of what Volvo filters cost.
 
LuberFiner are Champion Labs built filters. They are usually good quality. As with any filter, some brands have a better filter than others in a particular application. I use LuberFiner filters on all my personal diesel equipment. They work well and I get a good discount on them.

Ya, Johnny brought up a good point, RTS is a good oil. It's a GPIII with a good additive package. RTS gives good UOAs and you already buy from the Shell dealer, probably a good choice. RTS is more shear stable which may improve the efficiency of your Jakes.

RTS and LuberFiners seem like a good deal.
 
Are there any other/better synthetic 5w40 HDEO's I should look into? I know my distributor carries a few other brands as well. UOA is coming friday, we'll see what happens.
 
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