10w-30 Rotella is going to be better in winter. Faster flow on start up where most wear will occur.
88 K5 Blazer- What oil to use?
- Thread starter OSDCrusher
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I totally agree with you, I will run the Rotella 10W-30 in the summer. Thank you for the advice.
How often do you want to change the oil?
If you're looking for 5k-7.5k change intervals, Rotella 5w40, Mobil1 HM 5w30, Maxlife Synthetic 5w30... are easy choices.
If you plan on 3k intervals, then use ANY current spec 5w30 oil. Whether its high mileage or not makes no difference.
Change out the thermostat, PCV valve, and monitor consumption by topping off oil at EVERY fill up.
A little sludge is nothing to worry about. Current oils will prevent more sludge and clean out old sludge if you practice a safe and sane OCI.
Since vehicle is new to you, 2-4 shorter 1500-2000 miles OCI's are recommended to see what pours out of the drain plug and what builds up in the filter. Cut the filters open for inspection.
After you have recorded consumption, adjust viscosity as an aid to control it. If minimal, stick with 5w30 year round.
Do not add any additives or engine flushes without pulling rocker covers off for inspection. Don't fall for any product marketing. You need nothing but motor oil.
For 2011, the latest oil spec is API SN GF5. Use it!
If you're looking for 5k-7.5k change intervals, Rotella 5w40, Mobil1 HM 5w30, Maxlife Synthetic 5w30... are easy choices.
If you plan on 3k intervals, then use ANY current spec 5w30 oil. Whether its high mileage or not makes no difference.
Change out the thermostat, PCV valve, and monitor consumption by topping off oil at EVERY fill up.
A little sludge is nothing to worry about. Current oils will prevent more sludge and clean out old sludge if you practice a safe and sane OCI.
Since vehicle is new to you, 2-4 shorter 1500-2000 miles OCI's are recommended to see what pours out of the drain plug and what builds up in the filter. Cut the filters open for inspection.
After you have recorded consumption, adjust viscosity as an aid to control it. If minimal, stick with 5w30 year round.
Do not add any additives or engine flushes without pulling rocker covers off for inspection. Don't fall for any product marketing. You need nothing but motor oil.
For 2011, the latest oil spec is API SN GF5. Use it!
^What he said more or less.
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Originally Posted By: unDummy
How often do you want to change the oil?
If you're looking for 5k-7.5k change intervals, Rotella 5w40, Mobil1 HM 5w30, Maxlife Synthetic 5w30... are easy choices.
If you plan on 3k intervals, then use ANY current spec 5w30 oil. Whether its high mileage or not makes no difference.
Change out the thermostat, PCV valve, and monitor consumption by topping off oil at EVERY fill up.
A little sludge is nothing to worry about. Current oils will prevent more sludge and clean out old sludge if you practice a safe and sane OCI.
Since vehicle is new to you, 2-4 shorter 1500-2000 miles OCI's are recommended to see what pours out of the drain plug and what builds up in the filter. Cut the filters open for inspection.
After you have recorded consumption, adjust viscosity as an aid to control it. If minimal, stick with 5w30 year round.
Do not add any additives or engine flushes without pulling rocker covers off for inspection. Don't fall for any product marketing. You need nothing but motor oil.
For 2011, the latest oil spec is API SN GF5. Use it!
PCV Valve was changed in September and thermostat was changed in December. The other day, the truck sat outside in 20F weather for two days. When I went to go start it, it started up fine but there was lots of blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe, which is why I think it burns some oil.
How often do you want to change the oil?
If you're looking for 5k-7.5k change intervals, Rotella 5w40, Mobil1 HM 5w30, Maxlife Synthetic 5w30... are easy choices.
If you plan on 3k intervals, then use ANY current spec 5w30 oil. Whether its high mileage or not makes no difference.
Change out the thermostat, PCV valve, and monitor consumption by topping off oil at EVERY fill up.
A little sludge is nothing to worry about. Current oils will prevent more sludge and clean out old sludge if you practice a safe and sane OCI.
Since vehicle is new to you, 2-4 shorter 1500-2000 miles OCI's are recommended to see what pours out of the drain plug and what builds up in the filter. Cut the filters open for inspection.
After you have recorded consumption, adjust viscosity as an aid to control it. If minimal, stick with 5w30 year round.
Do not add any additives or engine flushes without pulling rocker covers off for inspection. Don't fall for any product marketing. You need nothing but motor oil.
For 2011, the latest oil spec is API SN GF5. Use it!
PCV Valve was changed in September and thermostat was changed in December. The other day, the truck sat outside in 20F weather for two days. When I went to go start it, it started up fine but there was lots of blue smoke coming out of the tailpipe, which is why I think it burns some oil.
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Originally Posted By: unDummy
How often do you want to change the oil?
If you're looking for 5k-7.5k change intervals, Rotella 5w40, Mobil1 HM 5w30, Maxlife Synthetic 5w30... are easy choices.
If you plan on 3k intervals, then use ANY current spec 5w30 oil. Whether its high mileage or not makes no difference.
My mechanic also said that high mileage oils are [censored] and they are a scam, no benefit(s) compared to regular motor oil.
How often do you want to change the oil?
If you're looking for 5k-7.5k change intervals, Rotella 5w40, Mobil1 HM 5w30, Maxlife Synthetic 5w30... are easy choices.
If you plan on 3k intervals, then use ANY current spec 5w30 oil. Whether its high mileage or not makes no difference.
My mechanic also said that high mileage oils are [censored] and they are a scam, no benefit(s) compared to regular motor oil.
Even a good trusted mechanic I would not trust for oil advice. Nothing againist them it just is not thier area of expertise.
Originally Posted By: OSDCrusher
My mechanic also said that high mileage oils are [censored] and they are a scam, no benefit(s) compared to regular motor oil.
The spec's and VOA/UOA data here is an eye opener. Your mechanic sounds like a scam for stating something he has no info on. But, the tiny added expense is for you to decide.
Once you have gathered the consistent oil consumption info, go from there.
My mechanic also said that high mileage oils are [censored] and they are a scam, no benefit(s) compared to regular motor oil.
The spec's and VOA/UOA data here is an eye opener. Your mechanic sounds like a scam for stating something he has no info on. But, the tiny added expense is for you to decide.
Once you have gathered the consistent oil consumption info, go from there.
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My question now is, are high mileage oils actually worth it?
AND everybody tells me to use different types of oil. What viscosity should I actually put in? I am now thinking 5W30 in winter and 10W30 in summer.
AND everybody tells me to use different types of oil. What viscosity should I actually put in? I am now thinking 5W30 in winter and 10W30 in summer.
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Why not 10W-30 in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter? I'm going MaxLife BTW.
I switched to Valvoline MaxLife 10W-30 in my '88 K1500 for the last oil change. It has not used a drop since and blue smoke on startup is much less. It is my main winter vehicle and started without a problem even on the coldest mornings this winter.
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Thanks for the response, that makes me want to run MaxLife even more now.
I've personally had success with Val. ML, it's great for the price to be had on it, IMO.
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Thank you, I agree.
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