Anywhere else in the world, 5w30 is an acceptable/recommended oil for this vehicle by a quick search on the ‘net. 0w20 is CAFE driven in the USA, pure and simple as discussed in many threads over the past years.Any reason for the 5w30 over Mazda's 0w20 spec?
But the report is just "average"
Yes.Any reason for the 5w30 over Mazda's 0w20 spec?
Many engines that I have tried going up a grade ran poorly, likely due to the low mass reciprocating components and the way the VVTi was programmed to allow a wide range of cam phasing when in open loop. Intake cam advance will cause loss of low end torque and maybe affect operation of the autobox and EGR and ignition timing; you may end up outside of acceptable or anticipated operating parameters.Yes.
In other markets, Mazda recommends 5w30 for this engine. I personally do not recognize the distortions in reality that CAFE regulations cause. That car is driven aggressively at times, and also has a short daily commute, and is DI, so there is fuel in the oil on an ongoing basis. I personally have never seen excessive wear from higher viscosity oils in any engine I have had experience with. I personally have replaced components in engines that have failed at least partially due to long drains and lower viscosity oils. I admit, and enjoy, my "thick oil bias".
Many engines that I have tried going up a grade ran poorly, likely due to the low mass reciprocating components and the way the VVTi was programmed to allow a wide range of cam phasing when in open loop. Intake cam advance will cause loss of low end torque and maybe affect operation of the autobox and EGR and ignition timing; you may end up outside of acceptable or anticipated operating parameters.
I have added thicker oils in the past but never ever found going up a grade for the whole sump worked. Never.
I would be interesting to hear some anecdotes where it did.
And, I've tried moving up a grade more than a few times on a good cross section of engine and vehicle types.
Toyota and Nissan and even Ford seem quite viscosity sensitive, Honda not so much with their VTEC engines, and Subaru just a little, but more so sensitive with the FB series.
So, If i feel an engine needs a bit of "help" I may top off with the next higher grade or sub 1 qt with a higher grade/same label when doing an oil change. My harsh commute and pleasure drives have never seemed to require more than that - but I'm not talking about auto crossing or other motorsports - just aggressive street driving - or even normal street driving and commuting.
- Ken
Ken,Many engines that I have tried going up a grade ran poorly, likely due to the low mass reciprocating components and the way the VVTi was programmed to allow a wide range of cam phasing when in open loop. Intake cam advance will cause loss of low end torque and maybe affect operation of the autobox and EGR and ignition timing; you may end up outside of acceptable or anticipated operating parameters.
I have added thicker oils in the past but never ever found going up a grade for the whole sump worked. Never.
I would be interesting to hear some anecdotes where it did.
And, I've tried moving up a grade more than a few times on a good cross section of engine and vehicle types.
Toyota and Nissan and even Ford seem quite viscosity sensitive, Honda not so much with their VTEC engines, and Subaru just a little, but more so sensitive with the FB series.
So, If i feel an engine needs a bit of "help" I may top off with the next higher grade or sub 1 qt with a higher grade/same label when doing an oil change. My harsh commute and pleasure drives have never seemed to require more than that - but I'm not talking about auto crossing or other motorsports - just aggressive street driving - or even normal street driving and commuting.
- Ken
Average report, true enough, but Vader hasn’t seen that much moly in a non-boutique oil before.But the report is just "average"
Some of the least expensive oils had high moly in the past like the old
SL Formula Shell.
PQIA shows moly in Maxlife red bottle which contradicts the Valvoline rep’s info. Have also seen UOAs of Regular and Maxlife synthetic with moly as well. Maybe the rep was just misinformed or didn’t understand the request. I guess we will know for sure once more reports are posted.I though someone just got and email from Valvoline that said Maxlife contained no Mollie?
Red Bottle is not full synthetic its a blend.PQIA shows moly in Maxlife red bottle which contradicts the Valvoline rep’s info. Have also seen UOAs of Regular and Maxlife synthetic with moly as well. Maybe the rep was just misinformed or didn’t understand the request. I guess we will know for sure once more reports are posted.
Good report. If Blackstone is picking up fuel I would keep the service intervals to this distance unles The service seen changes to longer runs.My son's car. Looks like 300k plus engine like his last 2.3l. New version of Maxlife. Lots of moly. What do you think? View attachment 43234