2016 ford flex water pump and timing replacement

[thejudges69]

I just bought this 2016 flex 3.5NA car for my wife. It just rolled 100k and I wanted to stay on the PM side of things. I know the water pump and timing chains are issues with these engines. I was contemplating doing it myself. I am mechanically inclined and feel confident doing the job. I’m asking anything important I should know. The OEM a timing set is on national back order so I’m looking at the Melling Professional set, then OEM water pump unless someone suggests a solid alternative. I’m not sure what I need for seals and gaskets. I understand the crank bolt should be replaced as well. What about antifreeze? I’m not sure what’s in it currently. What should go back in it?

And of course I’d like to hear thoughts on this job. The car is low mileage, the timing set isn’t making any noise but I figured if I’m in there why not. Or should I wait til the pump starts seeping which I know it can fail internally as well which would be catastrophic.

Also this will be posted over on GJ forum if anyone sees it doubly posted, I like an array of feedback.

 

[ElectroMechanoMan]

This is a tough one. If it was mine, I would do a good visual inspection of the water pump for discoloration around the bearing weep hole for leaks. If things visually look good, change the oil, run a 4000 mi interval and send in a sample to check for abnormal wear metals and antifreeze in the oil. If this comes back normal, I would run it and send in a sample at regular intervals and leave it alone. I do this with both of my vehicles and it gives me peace of mind since both have some known issues.

 

[benjamming]

I agree with the above reply especially since you can do the work yourself.

 

[KGMtech]

I did my 2009 Flex in June 2019 at 207,000 km. Like you I did this pre-symptoms. I'm pretty capable mechanically, but it took me 29.5 hours. Was it hard? nope, but it was challenging to orient the timing cover with the Ford sealant so that it didn't smear, that alone took about 2 hours of practice maneuvering to get the moves planned. Used OEM chains, tensioners, guides, WP and also did the thermostat and belts.

Still running fine and now at 278,000 km. Never leaks oil and doesn't use coolant. The original WP looked fine, no looseness, not leaking.

 

[B1974]

If there's no coolant in the oil at this time then, I'd do a drain and fill on the coolant once or twice to get some fresh coolant into the motor. I'd check the oil at fuel fill ups for coolant contamination and go from there.
Not sure how one would inspect the water pump on these without taking the timing cover apart. So I'd just wait until it's broken before fixing it, but definitely keep an eye on your oil for coolant.

 

[thejudges69]

This is a tough one. If it was mine, I would do a good visual inspection of the water pump for discoloration around the bearing weep hole for leaks. If things visually look good, change the oil, run a 4000 mi interval and send in a sample to check for abnormal wear metals and antifreeze in the oil. If this comes back normal, I would run it and send in a sample at regular intervals and leave it alone. I do this with both of my vehicles and it gives me peace of mind since both have some known issues.

I am going to do an UOA next change which should be coming soon since the wife’s driving the wheels off it. But I agree what will tell a lot.

The weep hole I understand you can’t really see. I’m not 100% certain if it’s location but I understand it to be hidden behind the alternator or ac compressor. I read it’s not really visible, maybe someone else can weigh in on that to clarify

 

[thejudges69]

If there's no coolant in the oil at this time then, I'd do a drain and fill on the coolant once or twice to get some fresh coolant into the motor. I'd check the oil at fuel fill ups for coolant contamination and go from there.
Not sure how one would inspect the water pump on these without taking the timing cover apart. So I'd just wait until it's broken before fixing it, but definitely keep an eye on your oil for coolant.

My only concern is that I get the right coolant out and back in. I understand there is a change over for coolant from green to maybe orange? And they don’t mix. I guess I won’t know til I drain it.

Would you drain it, fill with straight distilled water, flush and fill again. Then final with antifreeze 50/50?

 

[B1974]

My only concern is that I get the right coolant out and back in. I understand there is a change over for coolant from green to maybe orange? And they don’t mix. I guess I won’t know til I drain it.

It should be orange for 2016. Check the color in the coolant overflow tank.

 

[thejudges69]

It should be orange for 2016. Check the color in the coolant overflow tank.

I’m colorblind I’ll ask the wife .

 

[Dave9]

The coolant put in going forward should be the newer VC-13G Yellow, regardless of what's in it right now, but yes the factory fill should've been the orange.

 

[John Galt]

I own a 2014 n/a FWD Ford Flex limited. The best place to get advice on a Flex is www.fordflex.net. This is topic No 1 and all questions and experience of those who did this job themselves are discussed.

 

[Dave9]

My only concern is that I get the right coolant out and back in. I understand there is a change over for coolant from green to maybe orange? And they don’t mix. I guess I won’t know til I drain it.

Would you drain it, fill with straight distilled water, flush and fill again. Then final with antifreeze 50/50?

Yes flush with distilled water and drain, but then there may be water remaining in the system. Lookup the coolant capacity, and put 1/2 that amount, of 100% coolant in. Next top off with distilled water till it's full.

 

[zzyzzx]

At the very least, I would wait until I could get OE parts if that's what you really want. Otherwise I'd monitor the coolant overflow tank and not do anything until I see it dropping or otherwise had a reason to do this job.

 

[mattd]

You must remove the rear bank cam sprockets to change the RH upper guide. The phaser bolts are 1 time use.

I would suggest to use as many OEM parts that are available. Right now it only seems that the chains are difficult to get, the rest is the stuff is readily available . I would only replace the chain, pump, guides, and tensioner. No need to change the sprockets unless there is an existing issue.

The crankshaft bolt is 1 time use. I would also get a front crankshaft oil seal. You’ll also need valve cover gaskets. The fel pro ones are terrible for this application, use OEM. If it hasn’t been done, belt and tensioner.

The most current coolant is motorcraft yellow which superceedes the orange.

You can use the OEM silicone for the front cover or permatex ultra.

Plan on for at least a 2 day job if not longer if you’ve never done one.

FWIW we’ve had 5 timing chains on back order for over 6 months (3.7L engine).

 

[thejudges69]

I own a 2014 n/a FWD Ford Flex limited. The best place to get advice on a Flex is www.fordflex.net. This is topic No 1 and all questions and experience of those who did this job themselves are discussed.

Yes I know I know but I’m not a member and wanted to ask here first cause I am a member

 

[thejudges69]

You must remove the rear bank cam sprockets to change the RH upper guide. The phaser bolts are 1 time use.

I would suggest to use as many OEM parts that are available. Right now it only seems that the chains are difficult to get, the rest is the stuff is readily available . I would only replace the chain, pump, guides, and tensioner. No need to change the sprockets unless there is an existing issue.

The crankshaft bolt is 1 time use. I would also get a front crankshaft oil seal. You’ll also need valve cover gaskets. The fel pro ones are terrible for this application, use OEM. If it hasn’t been done, belt and tensioner.

The most current coolant is motorcraft yellow which superceedes the orange.

You can use the OEM silicone for the front cover or permatex ultra.

Plan on for at least a 2 day job if not longer if you’ve never done one.

FWIW we’ve had 5 timing chains on back order for over 6 months (3.7L engine).

I’m ok with a melling chain since that’s who make oem chains. The rest I’m pretty sure I can get locally at Ford. I think I read the phaser bolts and crank bolts are torque to yield correct? So they need to be replaced regardless once removed. Unless your that guy that can yield them again

 

[John Galt]

Yes I know I know but I’m not a member and wanted to ask here first cause I am a member

Membership? The Flex site just requires u pick a user name and password. Exactly the same process you used to join this site. Not complicated at all, takes seconds to join.

 

[thejudges69]

Membership? The Flex site just requires u pick a user name and password. Exactly the same process you used to join this site. Not complicated at all, takes seconds to join.

I don’t think you all will be happy til I join huh?

 

[John Galt]

I don’t think you all will be happy til I join huh?

I don’t understand the resistance to joining a Ford Flex specific site. They are unique in many ways which you will find out. Really I no longer care, the lead a horse to water but you can’t make it drink thinking appears to be going on here. Whatever.

You are about to do a very complicated self repair and you can get advice from Ford Flex experts (Waldo on the Flex site is one) so you don’t go down the wrong path. Or stick to this site where maybe someone knows someone who once owned a Flex and will tell you you shouldn’t have bought a Ford!

 

[D60]

Is this considerably different from the Edge/CX-9?

I feel like there's WAY more Edges, Mazdas and Lincolns out there with this engine??